matt36415

I sold my Aurion and bought a diesel bmw. It has theZF 8 speed automatic that is has lifetime fluid like the Aurions. I dropped the pan to replace the filter and fluid. The filter is built into the pan so both get replaced. The pan has a rubber seal made into it so no gasket needed. It had 4 magnets and at 135,000 km they has a thin coating of metallic sludge - less than my aurion had when i first dropped its pan - at 195,000km though.  New fluid is honey colour and the old fluid was dark but on a tissue it wasn’t very black. The trans was very smooth before the change but it’s different to others. Eg in neutral it barely rolls forward. 
 

I thought 8 gears was silly but its a great match for the 2.0 turbo diesel. It also got 900km on the first tank, i think the trans was a big part of that. 
 

A painful aspect of the job was the underbody covers  which add aero efficiency but are an extra step in the job. 

There is the fake genuine issue, I imagine ebay would be full of them. Having said that I have bought them from there too. I also think the change interval impacts this choice. I replace oil and filter at 5000km so a filter that is not quite as good is probably less important than if i used 15000km intervals. 

As above, what are you hoping to achieve?

So not road legal?

I dont want to do the work - but i would like to see inside my sump and pickup.

I have king low and kyb struts, that setup has done about 4 years now. 18 inch rims and 245/45 tyres, with the larger rims I also got kluger front brake disc and caliper - but cannot put a stock wheel on there if punctured as brake ps are too large.

Will give that a try.

the metal around the headlight attachment points isnt bent but I think the problem is 5 degrees or so, pretty small

After hitting kangaroo and replacing headlight its a bit low, 

Yes $550 for a genuine one. I watched the video but the screws he mentioned do nothing on either the new or old ones

Anyone?

Hi, I have searched but the photos are gone from an old thread on this. I hit a stupid kangaroo, $550 for a new light…

I moved the screws I could see and they moved the high beam but I really want to adjust the height of the low beams. Anyone know how to do it? 
 

Any help is greatly appreciated 

Can you give a link to what you are referring to 

The globes fit in the normal space, it was a bit fiddly to put them in but i think it wasn’t harder than putting any globe in there. They are still great, no flickering. 

18 hours ago, campbeam said:

Checked the ride heights today which is about 7 weeks after installation.

Driver Front: 706mm

Passenger Front: 718mm 

Driver and Passenger Rear: 706mm 

After wondering about the rear measurement, I realised that I still had tools in the boot. Measurement was unchanged after emptying the boot of tools [trolley jack, socket set, screwdriver set etc.]  

I have camber adjustment bolts so plan is to fit them before booking the car in for a wheel alignment. 

I have never checked so mabe its normal...

Do you notice the 12mm height difference between the sides of your car?

I have a 2007 and 2009, I got letters this year asking me to bring them in for free replacement. On the question of rubber hose - there is often a need for flexibility like in the air conditioning hoses mounted on the engine and then on the condenser or fuel lines between body and (moving and vibrating) engine. 
There are lots of applications where rubber- or nylon etc hose is used for pressure in hydraulics, brake lines etc I wonder if the problem here is a bit of rubbing rather than just heat and pressure. Would love to see a replaced part to know why they fail

Vinegar!

Pure speculation....... it may be illegal to remove airbag seats and replace with non airbag ones. Modifying in a way that looks less safe (no airbag) is probably not ok if anyone ever checked - like a rego check.

Thanks, I like it too, at cold. - around 15 deg C, idle pressure is about 70psi, drops to a bit over 15 at idle when warm with 5w40 penrite synthetic oil about 3000km old

Didnt like the chrome... so now its gone. Duplicolor custom wrap carbon black. Same as the front end. 

All done, oil pressure and the oil temp is on the transmission. The pressure gauge was a bit sensitive to having a good earth on both the sender and gauge but otherwise it was pretty straight forward, possibly the hardest bit was getting wires through the firewall.

Not knowing anything about your particular situation..... I wouldn’t be too confident in used car warranties, you might need a lawyer to make a claim. 
a 2007 with 260,000km but I know how its been treated for a lot of that. I would suggest that spending money on having a mechanics opinion is a good idea and that buying an unseen - un driven... car with those km is pretty risky. If you are taking a risk, there should be some reward... but the price doesn’t seem good enough to warrant taking such a risk.

Search ‘flaring’ here and the gen 6 forum - same engine and transmission. This might be what you are experiencing 

Oil pressure and temp, not wired in but installed in the little dash panel

My vvti noise at startup disappeared too when I went to shorter oil change intervals 

The hardest part of fitting was getting the wires through the firewall. I used a hole which already had wires going through but had to slightly cut the rubber boot to get it through

the filter just behind the grill is added into the transmission cooler lines