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matt36415 last won the day on February 5 2017

matt36415 had the most liked content!

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8 A Little Bit of Respect

About matt36415

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  1. Guy Sebastian Videos?

    Why is the sidebar filled with a singer talking about cars? Just seems odd
  2. Need help

    Or.... (dodgy suggestion coming) you could do what I did. Put a screw into that hose to seal it off. The vaccum thing it controls is to open a flap in the intake path before the air gets into the air cleaner box. I just pulled the whole flap out, it made no difference. There are 2 inlet holes into the airbox, the straightish one that is visable and another one that curves down and back up into the base of the airbox. I cannot see how restricting the airflow before the filter would be useful in any way. I also use a scangague and none of the numbers changed after I removed the flap - intake air temp, air fuel ratio, fuel per 100km. I have done over 30,000km with it out.
  3. need more power please

    As someone who asked the same question as you ... many years ago in a galaxy far away..... I learnt this, flick through forums and research first then buy a car that has lots of aftermarket kit. Then I knew what I could do and roughly for how much. Going the other way around might be ok but it relies on being lucky.
  4. NEVER ! Replace a TIRE AGAIN !!!

    100% bull$#it. In the video he says the hard old belt wears faster. Look at tyres (rather than a belt thats not made to be used in the same way), soft = grippy and short life. Hard normally means lower grip and long life. Tyre ‘rubber’ is a mix of chemicals made up to do a specific job which is not to be filed or the same as a drive belt. If this is true, no wear, then it goes against the normal way every other friction material works. As a good test, spray this on your bike tyres and go for a ride and try the brakes. If wear decreases, grip surely must decrease too. It might be a good product for something else, but not for tyres.
  5. Blowing white smoke

    20 000km over the service interval is a lot, 35 000km on one lot of oil. Your engine is quite likley to have sludge forming, possibly pcv gunked up...
  6. Suspected Intermediate Shaft Spline

    Search this forum, there is a good write up on how to fix this problem. Its pretty easy
  7. You could check, does the fan come on when the ac is turned on, it should. There could be a fault there
  8. How many KM's have you done?

    The sludge and vvt rattle do seem to be fixed or at least significantly improved by using good oil and shorter change intervals. My 2007 had 193000 when I bought it, and the vvt loud rattle on start up. Now at 226000 the rattle never happens after 30000km of 8000km oil changes
  9. Do you mean ‘stickers’ -little signs that go on the window?

    I have done the pan drop on my 2aurions and have then done several drain and refills. Its pretty basic. Especially the drain and refill is only as hard as an oil change. Also look on toyota nation at the therads on V6 camrys, lots of people have done it. People panic and stress about it, yes it is an expensive part of a car to break but measuring what comes out and replacing the same amount of fluid just isnt hard.

    Take off passenger wheel, there is a small plastic panel towards the front of car from the drive shaft. Behind that is a big bolt / plug, from memory it was about 22mm. It has WS on it. Thats the refill plug.
  12. Aurion intermediate shaft spline

    I think any spray grease with a thin nozzle (like the straws thet come on WD40) would do the job without taking anything apart. It may not last as long as a fix but it would be a 30second job.
  13. Aurion intermediate shaft spline

    Old thread... I just did the fix on my 2007, 225 000km. Didn’t buy thr Toyota kit. Undid the knuckle joint above the spline section of the shaft. Slid the spline section up as far as it goes, cleaned it then pushed wheel bearing grease in around the slide of the spline shaft as I pushed it back in. Refitted the knuckle joint... presto. All good, no more noise.
  14. Rattle on engine start

    Old thread.... I posted a while ago at 194000km. Car is now at 225000km and the rattle has been gone for at least a year. Not once, even at minus 5C morning start. I think the car had a poor record of oil changes, probably cheap oil too. I have used fully synthetic 5w 30 or 40 for the last 30000km approx changing at about 7500km or so. I also add Liqui Moly friction reducing MOS2 in each change, half a can. Although there may be some mechanical issue with vvt causing the noise, my conclusion is that its caused by a bit of sludge or at least the start of it. Thats the only reason I can see why mine has ‘fixed’ its self

    I have mixed in the Penrite LV in my 2aurions, by now they mainly have the Penrite fluid in them or at least half after 3 drains of 2.8 litres each. Both cars have over 20 000 km since the first Penrite refil, both drive very well