B-nicetarago
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Posts posted by B-nicetarago
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Hi, i know it is a bit late but yes taragos are known to corrode in water ports if anti freeze/boil is not maintained and some pll run straight water, quite simply eats from water port to the piston then head gasket gives way, takes years sometimes for this to be terminal.
i got mine tig welded repaired and head shaved.
Even with me doing most of the work and sourcing parts i had no change out of $1000- but i did valve stem seals/new valves/timing chain kit/full gasket kit.etc
if you decide to part the van out let me know as im after a decent tailshaft if its a manual transmission..
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Hi,
I got a 93 Tarago GLX. I own it for the last 14 years and it has been going ok. I want to replace the external sliding door handle and parking light housing but couldn't find any in Syndey. Every wrecker I called didn't have the part, can someone help provide a known source.
Thank you in advance.
Hi, There is a wrecker on ebay that does tarago, by memory it a marone colour one in pic, he is in ballina nsw.
i dont know him or anything but noticed him on the bay..
BRUNSWICK BYRON AUTO WRECKERS
ONE OF THE NORTH COASTS LARGEST DISMANTLERS OF USED CARS ..8 ACRES OF CARS
100 PACIFIC HWY TYAGARAH 02 66842351
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Hi, Have you had the steering racks checked for play.?
oh and also the top mount suspension springs rubbers, seems to be commonly mentioned with tarago steering wobble trouble.
Regz
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Yeap, the handle itself is held on with a circlip.
To remove the circlip grab a piece of thin cloth such as a chux and work it down between the handle and the plastic washer that you will also see. Move the cloth around until it catches on the surclip and carefully remove it (watch it doesn't spring away).
The handle then just slides off.
The door skin is just held on with those plasic clips around the bottom. Just pull the skin until they pop out. Once these are out, slide the skin up to remove it (it sits on metal brackets)
I've attached a photo (sorry about the size) showing the rear of the skin which will give you an idea of the location of the plastic (yellow in my case) clips.
Thanks for the tip NormM
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Hi, i would also check your driveline, eg check tailshaft uni joints for wear.
Have you hit any gutters lately?
check that all wheel nuts are tight, might sound silly but never know,
i would get wheels checked for balance "rear also" tyres could be going bad also.
Are you getting any rear noises? if so perhaps its time to check wheel bearings.
by all of these clues you might be able to narrow problem down 1 by 1, i also agree with previous post about wheel alignment..
Good Luck.
B-nicetarago
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@$100 per hour they better work faster.. @15hours should be managable to drop and put in. they got equipment and tools..my 2 cents worth..ps @15hours thats nearly 2 normal working days!!
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if your have the 12.5mm shafts "the outside dia of the 6 prongs shafts" not 14mm like mine, i have 2 brand new couplings, asking $100 +post.. i belive 90-93 takes 12.5mm and 94-97 is 14mm...
now Myka, i seen that one on ebay.com.au, its the opposite to engine side of shaft then yes.let me know if you need help finding..
OHHH its a while back...
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Hi
I am customising my 90 TCR11R , looking for a set of Extractors , anyone know were i can get them ?
Cheers
Hi There, if its the 2tz-FE engine then no way, they kinda already are extractors and motor is at 70-75 odd degrees..
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no mate not same Diff Ratio.. check with this chart, no credit to me for chart as i got it online..
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Read the Axle Code from the vehicle indentification plate.
first digit: ring gear diameter
A 138mm
B 145mm
C 6.25"
D 6.62"
E 7.1"
F 7.5"
G 8"
H 9"
J 9.25"
K 9.5"
L 10.5"
M 12.5"
N 13.5"
P 14"
Q 12"
R 162mm
S 6.38"
T 6.7"
U 6"
V 10.6"
W 15.5"
X 142mm
Y 158mm
Z 202mm
- no ring gear = FWD
Second, third digits: gear ratio
01 3.30
02 3.36
03 3.545
04 3.556
05 3.70
06 3.889
07 3.90
08 4.111
09 4.222
10 4.375
11 4.444
12 4.625
13 4.79
14 4.875
15 5.125
16 5.286
17 5.60
18 5.714
19 5.833
20 6.167
21 6.667
22 6.78
23 6.833
24 7.64
25 4.556
26 5.571
27 3.364
28 4.30
29 4.10
30 3.727
31 3.909
32 6.591 or 4.807
33 7.503 or 5.583
34 6.781 or 4.786
35 7.636 or 5.60
36 4.778
37 3.583
38 3.417
39 3.154
40 5.375
41 3.308
42 6.500
43 3.550
44 3.214
45 3.533
46 2.928
47 3.944
48 3.356
49 3.729
50 3.400
51 3.736
52 3.722
53 3.250
54 3.941
55 3.333
56 2.821
57 4.058
58 3.238
59 3.234
60 3.519
61 2.724
62 2.892
63 2.655
64 4.312
65 3.837
66 3.071
67 3.526
68 3.095
69 4.176
70 5.857
71 2.962
72 3.949
73 4.285
Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no
Code pinions ls
2 2 no
3 2 yes
4 4 no
5 4 yes
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almost sounded like head gasket again. new radiator and thermostat does not explain the missing and revs dropping though? if eventually car wont start and oil level on dip stick rises past full and resiovoir keeps emptying then its Head crack or corrosion on head or badly torqued head at shop 29pound+90 degrees+90 degrees and new head bolts is a must "$50-"..
oh and please tell me it was a wrong wording when you say filled with "water" did you mean Green Coolant?
its very bad for cars to run just water in radiator with modern cars, with time water may corrode the head water ports..With your Thermostat did you match the nob on housing with the little jiggle hole thing on thermostat..
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Hi,
what is common is corrosion in water port jacket and it works its way to cylinder, the Head Gasket Breaks and allows water into cylinder "cyl 1 on mine"..just to repair that part cost me $200 Welding at Machine shop and that's cheap,then Machining head"if head is not too warped from overheating".
if head overheat too much you might as well go new 2nd hand good head as its been comprimised "weak" in Alloy..
then your Mechanic needs a gasket Kit, another $150-.And if Head Gasket allowed water and oil to mix.."usually resivoir runs out of water and oil stick gets way full" Steam out of Exhaust another tell tail sign.
A LOT of Cleaning oil sludge internally "means all 2pans off and cleaning/blowing/.
now with The head, if it overheated too much it might warp, usually means a new head, 2nd hand $450-..on assembly and dissasembly Both cams must come out to get access to Head Bolts "another $50-" in new + "more Labour costs".
then on mine i found "egr Valve,Vacumm Modulator, vacuum bracket all non functional, was it the faulty head over time?,who knows, but another $350+ , while in there might as well do timing chain, another $130-+labour.
so ill stop here as you can see every step costs money and that is not including mechanics Labour costs @ usually $70-$100 an hour..
so far i have spent total working hours 15, complete strip down and assembly..not finished yet as im waiting for spare parts from Japan.. so i would say $1600 is minimal work done to your car and a lot of luck..
tarago engine trouble on going
in Tarago Club
Posted
sounds like a tiny leak in headgasket to me,might be small now and water leaking into one combustion chamber "we are talking little amounts"
and while engine is hot its not an issue as head is expanded but then car engine cools and seepage starts again..
corroded water port to cyl on head maybe or badly torqued head bolts at some stage in life "always use new head bolts on taragos as threads streetch"
does the vapour smell like anti freeze?