Tard

Funny how they say ex-Japan when the components were made by Quest Industries in New Zealand (http://www.questindustries.co.nz/Technology.aspx).

Had a friend that had a minor bingle in his TRD. Insurance company took care of it but in response to his cracked grill, they said the same story except a 2 week wait.

3 months later and they still didn't have a replacement grill.

For the purposes of this discussion, no it won't have any noticeable negative effect or gain for that matter.

Hi Jane .. thanks for the input .. as a distributor and carby guy, I know nothing about VVT-I, VVTIS or the whatever,.. but lets hope our vehicle goes well, from now on.. incidentally I have heard that some of the new cars, have a problem with oil draining out of the oil filter and the oil takes that little bit longer to get to the overhead gear ?? do not know if it is true or not .

Regards

Stephen

Well in the case of the VVT-i controller (if this is the same issue you have) it is indeed caused by a lack of oil pressure in the overhead gear. Nothing wrong as it does require oil pressure to function and this is not present when the engine is off.

In the words of Toyota with regards to the VVT-i mechanism:

When the engine stops, the intake side VVT-i controller is locked on the most retarded angle side by the lock pin, and the exhaust side controller is locked on the most advanced angle side. This ensures excellent engine startability.

The oil pressure sent from the advance or retard side path at the intake and exhaust camshaft causes rotation in the VVT-i controller vane circumferential direction to vary the intake valve timing continuously.

An advanced angle assist spring is provided on the exhaust side VVT-i controller. This helps to apply torque in the advanced angle direction so that the vane lock pin securely engages with the housing when the engine stops.

When hydraulic pressure is not applied to the VVT-i controller immediately after the engine has been started, the lock pin locks the movement of the VVT-i controller to prevent a knocking noise.

From reports I have heard, it is this lock pin that that doesn't engage. Now whether this is because the "advanced angle assist spring" isn't doing it's job or the lock pin, I'm not sure. But at the end of the day, the controller can only advance or retard within set limits so the only wear that would be present is the contact between the grey and yellow parts shown in the attached diagram. For the brief amount of contact, I would imagine there would be no harm.

And here is what is actually looks like:

In my personal opinion, the rattle from the lack of oil pressure in the VVT-i mechanism and the lock pin failing would not cause any long term issues. The construction of the mechanism itself is pretty robust and you would most likely get other non-related engine issues before that would fail.

OK I made up a circuit to apply the traction control in a matter of turn a rotary switch from 1 to 11 which can activate the traction control, then back to OFF in position 12.

Still need to test it guy's so this is a DRAFT.

So if I've done any wiring mistake please let me know.

Pictures aren't loading mate, but I get what your are trying to acheive. I was going to do a similar thing with just two dual stage switches but eventually opted for the messier method shown a while back by overriding the speed sensors. If you could fix the links for the diagram you have, I could give it a once over for you. Only thing I'm not sure about would be how much time between on and off the ECU requires to process that you are performing that procedure.

If you turn to the pages before the service pages, you will find a table that shows what needs to be inspected and replaced at certain intervals.

On a side note..... how tough?

This tough:

Just remember that the fan when removed from underneath typically takes the centre section out which is the motor assembly with the fan blades. If something in there has died, it is not going to stay contained when you pull out the fan.

Need to see some photos. If you can get a photo through the wheel showing where the wheel meets the rotor, that would be a good start.

It's just a little hard to imagine there being play in the rotor while the wheel is secure.

So I cant swap from halogen to HID without the kit unless I am Presara or Zr6 2012+ ?

If you have the Presara or ZR6 2012+, you don't have to swap anything because you already would have the D4S setup.

But for all purposes of this question, correct. You would need an aftermarket H11 HID kit for your halogen projectors.

The manual is a "one size fits all". It simply means that if you have halogen bulbs, you need type "B" which is the H11, or if you have discharge bulbs, you require type "A" which is the D4S. You can't simply swap the two around.

Hey Tony,

Yeah it's been a couple of years since ive been on here. Yeah right i guess it was only a matter of time, its all petty well documented what can and cant be done to Aurion's and any dramas plaguing the models. Yeah i still have the blue girl, im thinking of moving it on next ear once my house it built. Still low kms on it but it's time for an update. Not sure what to get though. Looked at the new IS and GS Lexus and the old IS-F but i'll wait and see what the update 50 series looks like and what cool "new" toys it gets. Chris (paradigm) has a new 50 series and stock for stock it's defiantly a better car than the 40 series.

The new Lexus' look so damn nice, especially the front end. Can't go too wrong with one of them. But even the older IS-F still looks sharp. I think this guy would approve:

You are aware that the diffuser doesn't just bolt onto a non-TRD bumper? The TRD bumper is made specifically to fit the diffuser etc.

Well they understood incorrectly. About the only thing in the brakes they would have "upgraded" are heavy duty brake pads.

Part you need is A132E0102F. £81.00 listed .

Picture shows old pipe but I checked Exige V6 and

it's picture shows new part but both list new part

number which is all metal pipe.

The TRD Aurion VVT-i oil pipe routes differently to the N/A 2GR-FE VVT-i oil pipe. The revised metal pipe for the N/A Aurion will NOT clear the supercharger drive belt.

The solution for the TRD Aurion is the same as the original solution for the N/A 2GR-FE which was to replace the hose and clamps only. The all-metal pipe was not as a fix for the existing engines, but as a new part to be used on future produced engines. As such, this new all-metal pipe was designed for the N/A 2GR-FE.

I would not be surprised at all if the Evora S simply uses the same metal/rubber combination.

No solid metal part. Only the rubber version as the TRD oil pipe routes differently and don't think they could be bothered producing a limited run of metal pipes.

Djoker I remember him,,,, Fuk aye **** c'mon JOKER CONE BACK

DJ KOR, not D Joker. He won't be back.

I'm pretty sure he will never be back.

I just blew my engine

As did I possibly. Or the gearbox. Probably both.

If 2XS gets the supercharger and components, I'd be interested in the engine and gearbox.

That crack you mentioned... is it this? It is hard to tell if that's a bad reflection or damage.

If it's just the missing chunk underneath it, I'd still be interested, otherwise thanks anyway. I'm needing it to replace a cracked part already and that material doesn't exactly repair easily.

You said the rear diffuser is second hand? So it's painted? What's it's condition like? I'd be keen on that part if it's suits and is of decent condition.

an example would be ****** weather, torches of mass destruction, myer gift cards and Chinese prostitutes

least that's what I remember

Oh... and Falcons.

You can remove it completely and even leave the hole open and it won't affect your engine.

Heavier, but nothing that is going to make a significant difference to anything. Aftermarket 19 inch wheels weigh a little lighter.