nswnotill

Perhaps you could investigate alternate wheel sizes.

Check out  https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

Change to 16 inch or even 15 inch wheels of equivalent diameter.

However you will have to check that a smaller diameter wheel does not obstruct the disc brakes.

Have you over-inflated the tyres?

Perhaps if you go back through this forum you will kind a link to the wiring diagram.
This may assist.
I use the cig. lighter outlet to power an independent GPS unit. I made a bracket to fit into the recess beside the lighter outlet.
It also has  a flexible  shaft with clamp to fit the GPS. Maybe you can do something similar.

Why not the cig. lighter outlet in the console between the seats?

I recently had my local mechanic replace all four struts on my 2008 model- parts + labour all up $1500. (aftermarket parts). One rear unit was leaking. The car has done 220K and this is the first major suspension job. It now requires a wheel alignment.

On 11/12/2018 at 10:23 PM, campbeam said:

For my own hard-headed reasons of not wanting to disturb the engine, I deliberately chose the option of multiple oil and filter cartridge changes.

Ashley,

How many K's on the odo? My 2008 model has been serviced by reliable mechanics every 10,000 Km (oil + filter) and now has 220,000 km. on the odo. No sign of any white smoke yet.

Check out previous topics on this forum. It has been discussed at length before.
The TSC light and the engine light can come on for many reasons. In my case it has been the traction control with wheel slip when reversing on slippery ground.
After a few start/stops the problem rights itself, and the lights go out - until the next time I reverse in a tricky situation.

If you want a first class ride, go back to 16 inch wheels. Say 215/60/16 tyres.
Larger diameter wheels on low profile tyres suck- they ride like bullock drays, and more expensive to replace.

What is the service life of a Toyota Aurion?
I have a 2008 GSV40R series, Touring variant, with 215K on the odo. It has been regularly serviced every 10K and all the upgrades carried out (including sticky dash replacement). The transmission oil was changed at 140K.

I am reluctant to dispose of it, as it is running faultlessly. It still has loads of power and runs on ULP or E10 fuel OK. I have noted that the water pump may cause trouble at around 200K. However my serviceman has regularly changed the coolant at the recommended periods.

Redbook tells me that the trade price is $3400-$5000.

Moving up to an GSV50 series, with low mileage may make me feel better or an alternative late model large sedan which is under 5 years old. (I am not into SUV’s). I will then have a vehicle with some extra safety features, and lots of other gimmicks as well. However I am now onto the depreciation treadmill again.

How long will my Aurion last? 300K? 400K? Or do I just continue to drive it until something major expires, sell it to a wrecker, and start all over again? What do members think?

Thanks for the reply. I noted on a USA forum that the VSC lights can sometimes be returned to normal by unscrewing the fuel filler cap and relieving the pressure. Others say the 02 sensor can cause the VSC to illuminate. Yet others say that a historical analysis of the ECU is necessary to indicate which parts are at fault.

On 10/23/2017 at 10:04 PM, nushydude said:

On two recent occasions, when reversing a box trailer uphill on a wet grassy surface, the car seems to labour. The engine is trying to turn the wheels backwards, whilst the traction control is trying to prevent the wheels turning, as there is apparently some wheel spin on the grass. The movement is eventually completed, but immediately afterwards the VSC and engine lights come on, and remain on for several small journeys.  Everything on the car works OK, and the lights eventually go out. Is this a common occurrence? It shakes one's confidence though.

This VSC warning now occurs to me regularly, every time I reverse uphill, with a box trailer fitted. I ignore the warning lights, and the car runs normally. After some time the lights go out and all is well until the next time. I have been told that something similar occurs with late model Commodores, and the lights go off after 6 ignition/engine stop-start cycles, as the ECU then re-programs itself.

I guess a similar ECU re-programming occurs with Aurions. However it would be handy to know how many ignition/engine stop-start cycles are necessary before normality returns to the warning lights. I could then start-stop in quick succession several times after each VSC alert to quickly rectify the problem

If this is now occurring regularly, is it a sign that there are some faulty sensors in the system, or general brake wear? The car is a 2008 model and has done 212K.

  Wikipedia says:

The Midas touch, or the gift of profiting from whatever one undertakes, is named for a legendary king of Phrygia. Midas was granted the power to transmute whatever he touched into gold. |
Looks like they made an easy $500 from you.

I agree with many others.

Purchase a late model Lexus with a 3.5 motor or a new Camry V6.

11 hours ago, krigeroz said:

 And the best lesson I've learned is never to buy new car.

That, unfortunately is also my situation. No matter how good the latest Camry V6, the depreciation on this vehicle (as on every other new vehicle in the marketplace) is unaffordable for a guy on a fixed income. So perhaps in due time I will upgrade from a 2008 model 40 series Aurion to a 50 series.

3 hours ago, campbeam said:

Interesting what was reported about the suspension tune for the V6. S

The Fairfax motoring writer must be diplomatic in the wording, or vehicle manufacturers will not supply any more vehicles for testing.
From my reading of the Toyota literature, the SX has stiffer suspension than the SL and also 19 inch wheels on the SX versus 18's on the SL.
Perhaps the SX may not exhibit the 'floating' characteristic.

According to the Toyota media statement of 2011, your model has $3000 of extras over and above a Prodigy of the same age.
http://www.bathursttoyota.com.au/news/toyota-launches-aurion-white-limited-edition/  

In original trim it had 17 inch wheels. However from your pic, the wheels on the vehicle pictured may be larger.
Why not check the markings on the tyres and let us know?

Daniel,
you specifically mention the wheels. What is the diameter of the wheels and rim width (if known).
a close up pic. of the wheels would help.
Also, There are outfits who recondition and clean up alloy wheels with gutter rash and suchlike. Maybe this is a cheaper option than new wheels.

Daniel,
What is the model of the car? Is it a 40 series (2007-2011) or a 50 series 2012-2017)?
what is the type AT-X, Sportivo, Prodigy, Touring, or Presara?Do you want to enhance looks and appearance, or mechanical mods?

If this stuff is as good as the promos allege, will it be any good as a preservative to prevent the 'sticky dash' syndrome?

I also have an Aurion -2008 touring model with 200K on the odo.

It also has a steel wheel spare.

Anusha,
Your comments have been noted.
I regularly have this phenomenon showing up on my 2008 model, particularly when manoeuvring a trailer in my back yard on rough and/or slippery grassy ground. The dash lights up like a Christmas tree.
I basically ignore it now, as everything is functioning OK, and all the warning lights go out after a few trips on sealed roads. My guess is that it may be caused by general wear in the braking system, issues with the sensitivity of sensors and maybe other factors. (My Aurion has done 200K)
With my late model Magna (which I previously owned) there was a dash switch to turn the ABS off which was very convenient.
If it continues to bug me too much I may move to a rear wheel drive car, which possibly could address these issues.

I purchase touch up kits through Ebay. Many different options available. However you should  quote the paint code of your vehicle as shown on the compliance plate.

Looks to me like it is from a shopping trolley

Anyone else had this situation with these warning lights?

On two recent occasions, when reversing a box trailer uphill on a wet grassy surface, the car seems to labour. The engine is trying to turn the wheels backwards, whilst the traction control is trying to prevent the wheels turning, as there is apparently some wheel spin on the grass. The movement is eventually completed, but immediately afterwards the VSC and engine lights come on, and remain on for several small journeys.  Everything on the car works OK, and the lights eventually go out. Is this a common occurrence? It shakes one's confidence though.