martin-A

Have replaced the ECU with one from wreckers and so far cold start seems alot smoother, drivings fine and no error codes BUT... still had the engine shut off. This time drove about 10mins and when i parked i noticed idle speed lowered alil and after abit of shoppin started her up again, let her idle for a min before then all of a sudden engine swithces off. Car started again but pretty much jus shut off before getting to idle speed. Gave it an more than an hour before trying again and got home, let it idle but engine quit again after 2mins of idling. (Still no error codes) Any ideas? Also recieved another error code before fitment of ECU on top of 12 & 13 --> 43 Starter Signal No "STA" signal to the ECM until engine speed reaches 800rpm with the vehicle not moving.

1990 & manual

would any st184 ECU do? or would i have to get the specific 5sfe year and transmition ECU? The timing i spoke off, i meant that i've adjusted it numerous times and suspect that that may have contributed to my issues. Any further suggestions or questions are welcomed (not really enjoying car pooling atm)

I was thinking along the same line, but I have not idea where to begin. Are there any simple test to that can be done on ECU to determine any further errors or faults? And could adjusting the timing within safe range disrupt any electrical components? As I think this may have contributed to the error codes being present.

Um im very reluctant to admit my dizzy or coil assembly could be the fault, cos i did replace them with brand new parts late last year and pretty sure spark is always there. Tested leads and coil assembly, resistance pretty poor so replaced the leads and coil assembly fine. Also my celica is 1990 so separate coil and dizzy.

So cummuting to work last week my car had suddenly stalled and over the weekend it had happened again. No engine light when engine is running but during diagnostic mode i get error codes 12 & 13. Ref Haynes Repair Manual: Code 12 - RPM signal No "Ne" signal to the ECM within several seconds after the engine is cranked. No "G" signal to ECM two times in succession when engine speed is between 500rpm and 4000rpm Code 13 - RPM signal No "Ne" signal to ECM engine speed is above 1500rpm After initial stall the car will not start but couple times has started but had switched off again within 30sec. Also if allowed to cool a little I may get a further 10mins of driving if im lucky. Has anyone experienced this troubles or have knowledge to rectify this issue? Any help is much appreciated!

So set timing back to 10btdc and not suprised but still the same issues. Followed this proceedure to adjust timing: - let car get to operating temp and idle speed at 800rpm - switch off car and jump TE1 E1 thing for diagnose mode and start car up again - check timing with timing light and still at 14btdc - loosen dizzy bolt and rotate anti-clockwise to 10btdc (checked with timing light) - switch off car and removed keys, diagnostic wire, timing light - went for drive to calibrate ECU One thing i noticed is when in diagnostic mode, the revs went below 800rpm so had to adjust that for timnig light.

yea did have timing back at 10btdc in the past, jus to see how the car is running at factory timing, but SILLY-CAR seems surge more at that tune. It appears to like the timing more advanced but anything over 14btdc you can hear the knocking sounds from engine head area, Like you said "MUST be on 98 octane". Have timing at 15-16btdc: with 98 octane, car drives like it is at 10btdc in comparison to the surging. with reg unleaded, very little surges but knocking and no I did not leave at that tune. Another circumstance that aids to more surges is weather. During a drive when raining, I get more surges and car runs more rich I pressume. In nice dry day get minimal surges at 14btdc Could any sensors be faulty? BTW - Will change timing back to 10btdc over weekend and update....

Might try this again....... So pretty much the same thing as mention in orig post and since just adjusted timing to 14btdc (current set). Other signs Ive noticed to date: - if driving normal without heavy acceleration, operating temp is fairly consistant at alil under half way. BUT when getting to speed aggressively the temp gauge gets down to less than 1/4 of the gauge. Only notice possibly 30-60secs after heavy acceleration, then usually goes back to normal operating temp after 10-15mins of normal driving. - smell of gases upon cold start Im thinking car is running fairly rich as only getting 450-500 from full tank. Car only has a cat back 2" 1/4, pretty sure that doesnt contribute to my celica's problems =)

Timing is currently set to a fraction over 16bdtc. Any suggestions, ideas or theories?

Hi all, wow it seems the st184's are the topic of discussion, lol. Well im not really a car enthusiast but fairly handy when it comes do diy jobs with instructions. So, after basic service of my 90 celica I checked the timing and re-adjusted to 14btdc (not the first time) and a problem presents itself under acceleration. At times at low rpm engine gets no ignition, just poping sounds out of exhaust without revs climbing until I lift off a little from the accelerator then resume to get to speed. OR worse, the same thing but engine is retarding instead of missing and whole car, especially left front manual transaxel end is stuttering until i lift off the accel pedal. Double check the timing and it is definetly set at 14btdc, so advanded some more and problem doesn't exsist (even has an increase in pickup in mid range) but engine is ticking. Filled up with Shell Vpower and no ticking but initial problem re-occurs. Set timing to factory 10btdc and problem is much worse, sometimes occurs when getting off from 0kph. Set back to 14btdc and almost as bad, today not sure where it is as havent checked the timing after advancing half way to work, but it has reduced problems fair bit and definitely over 14btdc without any ticking. And yes timing is done when TE1 E1 is tripped. Dont think its the dizzy or coil assembly, got them replaced not too long ago. Havent replaced leads and got champion plugs. Im thinking if there is anything else to reset besides the ECU? but like intro says i dont really know much about cars, only get my hands dirty when I know what im looking for. Any help would be much appreciated. CHEERS