camsport

Some positive results there. keep us upto date...

I think we're done guys!

The on-boad trip computer has come down to 12 and my last 25 litres

looks like it's about to hit 240kmh, which by my calulations is 10.5L/100km.

No driving like a girl either, lots of kicks in the guts and steady cruise speeds.

Did not expect an EGR valve to play such a vital role in fuel economy.

I guess one factor I should have paid more attention to was that it idled and started so well.

My point being whatever was causing the issue was at speed, plenty of guts just not happy cruisng.

Here's one that may be common to other V6 3.0L models.

STARTING ISSUES!

Late to fire, takes about 5 sec plus of cranking and finally start but may splutter without some gas.

Hot or cold the same, mostly concerned I was going to need a new battery and or starter soon enough.

Did the usual, ISC on the throttle body, known good spark plugs, battey good, starter fine.

My best guess wasfuel pressure issues, but the hassle of finding the right pump was already an issue

as the specified unit for my car was wrong in the workshop manual, as is the TPS sensor, throtle body, accelerator pedal...!

Basically in this model the fuelpump sits within a 3 part plastic housing that "clicks" apart, bananas!

After dissasembling the beasty I noticed a filter section within the main plastic housing, above what I assume is a removeable

regulator and below a black plastic plug. This seems to be a black/charcoal coloured filter in the form of what I can only

describe as rolled up cardboard.

Once the top black plastic plug was pulled off, a heap of petrol poured out, not red in colour black dark, looked very dirty.

Ran some clean fuel through it and re-assemble taking not of a silly spring under the balck plug...no idea what it does.

Well about 10 minutes later I plugged in the fuel pump relay and primed the pump with a few ignition on/off turns before kicking

it over.

Started staight up! Let it sit and checked it every 5 minutes until having it hijacked by the kid!

Went online to look at pricing the pump and was mortified to see that what was in my car is not was is sold for it, basically will not fit.

Hope this helps someone out!

Injector pulse can be checked using a screwdriver as a stethoscope. Does the car have any issues at all running, ie sluggish, heavy fuel usage, excess fuel smell in the exhaust vapour, etc.?

The car did have a huge issue with econmy and it ended up being the EGR valve.

The starting problem seems to be getting worse. My gut feeling sais its not electrical.

I might toss in some injector cleaner tomorrow and see how it goes...

Have you checked fuel pressure after it's been sitting for a while? Then check the pressure when 1st attempting ro start compare it with the 2nd attempt to start. - which could indicate a dodgy spring for the return line..

Have you checked injector pulse with a noid light?

Is the ecu getting the basic 5 signals?

Heh...ok 3 things I have no way of checking.

Can you expound on say checking the spring for the return line?

Thanks!

Just out of curiosity, what engine oil are you using?

Unsure of brand, but what ever the Dealership gets in i suppose, we don't request anything different as we have never had a problem with any vehicles being serviced there. We have the family cars serviced there and they are 2000 Camry, 2004 Corolla, 2005 Camry, 2009 Aurion

Just wondering if you resolved your problem?

I have just gone through some major fault finding issues and now I have the same problem, mostly

on cold start but even throughout the day sometimes. Plenty of battery power, just won't fire.

Cheers

Some positive results there. keep us upto date...

I think we're done guys!

The on-boad trip computer has come down to 12 and my last 25 litres

looks like it's about to hit 240kmh, which by my calulations is 10.5L/100km.

No driving like a girl either, lots of kicks in the guts and steady cruise speeds.

Did not expect an EGR valve to play such a vital role in fuel economy.

I guess one factor I should have paid more attention to was that it idled and started so well.

My point being whatever was causing the issue was at speed, plenty of guts just not happy cruisng.

Turn of events...

While reading through some other posts and running issues I came across the

symptoms a blocked EGR valve can have and thought "hmmm, let's check this out too"

So from what I understand it's meant to open at cruising speeds and at operating temp

to reduce combustion temperatures at "lean burn" levels.

After 3 grazed knuckles and a copule of scratches I got the mongrel out!

In hindsight I should have applied a vacuum to it straight off and test it but

I was too curious to see what treasures it had inside.

Removed a threaded bolt that looks like a drain/cleaning port and started.

Some carby cleaner, small cloth pieces on a wire and it was flying out.

I have a hand vacuum pump for bleeing brake lines so easy to leave open

while the cleaner poured out...very dirty!

Initially I think it was hard to open but then it seemded to free up.

Back on the car and ran down the freeway all good.

So! Suddenly acceleration is dramatic, auto gear change is crisp, even

the on board avg fuel useage has moved down to 13...

I don't know what to make of this just yet so I'll post back in a day or two.

Did not expect any real change in acceleration or performance, I am sure the EGR only

works at cruising speeds.

Inlet Air temp sensor is the one inside the air filter box the 10 wire or so plug is the air flow meter. The air flow should log a code if faulty how ever junk does build up on the element so it is worth cleaning it . Throttle body spray should do it don't use carburetor cleaner .....

Thanks for that. I will look into the throttle body cleaner!

Is this a afm or map sensor engine ? Have you cleaned the afm if fitted?

Uhm...I believe it is a MAF sensor , located in the air intake above the air cleanaer element.

Two screws hold it in place, looks like a hairpin with a blob on the end. I have measured this

at teperature and it is withing specs, it looks as if it just went in, new.

Oddly though next to the air intake box another sensor ( I think) it's mounted on a bracket, looks like about

10 pins. This I have no idea about, there is no reference to this rectangular block anywhere.

Cheers...

Just thinking outside the square here, but:

i. Is there a hole in your fuel tank?

ii. Are the pumps at your regular service station ripping you off with overstating litres pumped?

iii. Are your fuel usage calculations wrong? (remember the BOMBDAS rule).

Martin

Hi Martin,

Don't know the BOMBDAS rule but I had suspected the local 7/11 when I filled

up with some 74 litres on a 1/4 tank, not the Camry. Even the Ford wagon only has

72 litres usable capacity.

Calculations are basic: I pay no attention to the trip computer and only use the lires in

against kmh driven fill to fill.

Last time we added 30L and drove 147km before the light stayed on (fuel warning on dash)

The fuel cap is always pressurised, no leeks as I have brown paper under the car, not even an oil

stain!

I have checked the filler hose, cannister and evap line, physically under the car followed all the lines

and check for any marks or leek discolourations etc.

Yesterday I removed the TPS and still have no values to check it against.

It is labelled Toyota 89452-33030, resistance closed is .22k Ohms increasing smoohly to 2.8k ohms at

WOT postion. On re-installing it I did find it is pre-tensioned just to line up the screw holes.

On a Ford you basically chuck on a new one and run a calibration with the ignition on then idling for 1 minute.

I have read with Toyota's you need a feeler guage etc but that's rubbish as there is no give (holes not slots)

on the TPS.

One detail I have not mentioned is the filth seen in the throttle body. I have cleaned this out

twice now using the right cleaner. Looking past the throttle plate the plenum chamber is covered in

dark oil deposits that look like spatter. Last week I also removed and cleaned the pcv valve which

was gummed and partially clogged, not inoperative but very average.

The car has fresh synthetic oil and filter...can't actually see past the silly rocker cover screen

to get an indication of upper head compenets.

Thanks Krusty and Drew,

I did look for the reset button but oddyly enough there is'nt one!

I have though reset the ECU to no avail, the concern with the TPS was that

Icould'nt check it against any known values, the workshop manual has everything but

these details and shows a 5 pin unit and a throttle bidy with a motor that controls

the throttle. Mine is basically an accelerator cable set-up with a TPS.

Fuel line, tanks, cannister lines etc I visually checked myself and have done so while

running as the fuel useage/loss is paramount to a leak.

I guess what's really annoying is that there is no accurate manual that covers the vehicle.

My car has two O2 sensors and after searcing no A/F sensor. Manually checking the rer O2 sensor

was a pain but this too was according to specs.

Is it possible that the timing is out? That is when the timing belt was done was it set up right

or wrong and can this happen? Is there a quick way to check alignment?

Thanks WC.

Toyota checked pump and filter in the tank, cleaned injectors and fuel rail.

We are just off the main road so withing 200 meters we have to get up to 80kmh

and the auto revs high in 3rd, I can hear it suffering but what do you do.

Fuel is from all over as I'm on the road a fair bit, though know one servo where you

can put in 74 litres in a 1/4 full tank! I figure I have the only 90L litre fuel

tank in the world!

Yeah nowhere near that!

Just posted about out 3.0L running at about 20L/100.

Oddly it runs better and longer on the low octane fuel!

I am at my witts end with this Camry. From 13's to 17 now we get almost 20L/100 and no one knows how to rectify.

It's a 2003 3.0L Sportivo with just over 100k on the clock, never missed a service and runs like a dream.

Two Toyota service dept's have checked over it with no faults or errors.

New catalytic, nothing, fuel rail clean out, the same maybe worse.

Does better on standard unleaded, anything higher seems to evaporate...

Personally the only item I am suspect about is the TPS sensor as I can't find

a ref to it in the workshop manual, our has 3 pins not 5 or 6.

Symptoms are: Excessive high idle when cold, say 3-5 mins, auto wont't kick up into 4th on cold,

and it seems unresponsive at times. Have "felt" a surge or falter at cruisng speeds of about 70kmh, but

not always. We don't go by the trip computer only litres in and kilometers travelled, displays between 13 & 14L/100km.

We have now stopped driving it.

Anyone? Oh yes and we did check the tyre presure thank you Toyota!

I am looking at doing mine too but not sandb-lasting, I don't think it's required.

Depending on the new colour, get some etch-primer either white or gray.

Ensure the rim is absolutely clean and masked extrnally and covered internally(brakes etc)

The trikiest bit for me is the wheel nuts, so I'll just get some new ones after.

I'm planning on a charcoal colour with a low gloss level.

I've done this before and light coats about 1 foot from the job is best.

Pick a warm day with the least amount of wind.

Don't do 1 wheel at a time, clean them all, mask them and then prime ec.

Cheers.

I want to replace the stock double din headunit in my Camry with one that I can connect my MP3 player to, bluetooth/aux in, I knwo how to remove the existing stereo, but I need to get the double to single din adapter and wiring harness, but bugger me if I can find them.

Can anyone point me in the right direction, thanks.

Have you considered a double din replacement that has all the features your after?

My 2003 Sportivo had the standard 6 CD unit and I just replaced it with an Ebay unit

that has bluetooth, touch screen high res, AU GPS, MP3, DVD, Ipod in and SD car,USB in, etc and reversing camera input for about $260.

The unit had its own Toyota Camry wiring adaptor so it was plug and play, perfect fit

into the existing brackets and no gap when the dash went in.

Easily the fastest install ever done, maybe 10 mins?

The units sell for about $350 on Ebay, I bid on one

and it only went to $220 plus shipping, pretty happy with it.

Bugger..O2 sensors are fine, measured 13 ohms accross pins 1 and 4 when cold.

The rear sensor is crazy to get to!

The car runs like a swiss watch once it's warm and the rpm's drop but like

I said I need to figure out how the pulley/servo set-up works and make sure

it is working right.

Still can't find any specs or reference to this unit in the manual.

The quest continues!

I'll get into these today.

I think they need an ohm resistance of about 13 at 20 degrees.

When I got the car the upper O2 sensor was disconnected and I didn't give it much thought!

Will post later on findings...thank you!

Mate, 17.8L/100km is scary consumption, isn't it. Did you always use A/C ?

I'm finding also that the fuel consumption is way too high.

2003 Camry Sportivo 3.0 v6. Best Fuel consumption so far

is 14.8L\100 kms BUT this is driving with no a/c and like a priest!

So far have done the following: Spark plugs, air filter, synthetic oil, double checked tyre

air pressure.

Idle seems way too high on start up but drops off after about 5 mins, acceleration seems to lag

and kickdown (auto) will only activate after a serious thump on the pedal.

Can't find anything in the workshop manual on the servo set-up that links the accelerator

to the throttle. The cables feel slack and there is very little travel in the pedal though

I do get Wide open throttle.

Not convinced that a 3.0 is enough to get the Camry around, my Ford 4.0L battle-wagon does 12.5

L/100 kms eyes shut and gets the car going.

Am I missing something?

This is my second Toyota, first was an '02 Corolla the X run to 80,000 kms without and oil change.

The car survived with flying colors after 3 oil changes within a week.

I was impressed!

Just grabbed a 2003-04 Camry Sportivo for my kid and other that some teething issues looks good.

Can't get used to the 'drive by wire', won't kick down when expected, idles high about 1800 rpm on start up

and drinks more fuel that my old Ford El 4.0l

Hoping it will settle soon otherwise I'll start a biopsy!

3.0 V6, no mod's, 122k with all books and verified service history.

Seems to drink more above 80kmh going by the inst fuel consumption.

Cheers to all,

JG

Hello guys, new to the forum and just looking through some of the posts...

I had the same issue but with a Ford, it turned out to be the ignition swicth assembly

attached to the key.

The slightest bump or use of anything electrical would set it off.

Perhaps have a look at this side of things?