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Posts posted by viper33
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Give toyota a call and try and get them to look up the code
Realistically they should just be able to use the computer to search and it'll come up with a list of procedures/steps to try
Not too sure if the old models are on the database though
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Press "track/tune ^" and "1"
Then try entering last 3 digits of VIN, then hold down the "scan" button
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That sounds ok as long as the handbrake holds around 4-7 clicks uphill or downhill with the car in neutral
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^ They've got rear disc brakes but the centre hub of the rotor acts as drum and houses the handbrake shoes inside it
Realistically the handbrake shoes shouldn't be worn unless you've got high Ks or you drag the handbrake/do a fair amount of handbrakeys
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Since you're in school i'm gonna assume you're probably on your Ps
Heres my 2c, learn to park without parking sensors or any other aid
The amount of people on the road who still scratch cars with parking sensors and reverse cameras is absolutely ridiculous already, so learn right the first time and you won't need parking sensors every again
The only cars which really need them are utes or vans since their rear visibility isn't great
Also I'd recommend waiting a week or two more to save up an extra 100-200 bucks, then find a local mechanic and get him to check out the car if you're very keen on it
As you're budget is limited already last thing you want to buy is a car which won't last more than a month, so spend a little more to have the piece of mind that you're buying something fairly decent
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Get them to adjust it properly
Tell them to take the rotors off and give it a good clean + sand the shoes down if needed and free up the little gear
Also how many clicks can you push it down to with your foot? And I don't mean standing on it and using all your force, just push it down like you would normally and count how many clicks
It should be around 6-10 and the handbrake should hold with that amount of clicks, ie you shouldn't need to push it further down to hold
EDIT: If its too tight already, tightening the cable will only make it worse
Most likely the shoes are not adjusted right
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Ask the local dealers, you may get lucky
Also make sure you get them to give you a quote for diagnosing the rattles, coz sometimes it can take hours to diagnose a rattle and you don't wanna end up having to pay 8 hours labour for it
Or diy
Get a mate to jump in the car next to you, and as you drive and hear the rattle, get him to put pressure on the different parts the rattle is coming from and if it stops it you've found the cause
Then you figure out how to stop it using insulation
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3 clicks? Are you sure they didn't tighten the crap outta the cable?
Ideally it should be somewhere between 6-10 clicks
Simple way to adjust them is to first loosen the cable, then adjust the shoes and then tighten the cable to take up the slack
You may be better off taking your rear rotors off and cleaning + giving the shoes a slight sand though before you adjust them
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Call up and ask local dealers
Hopefully there will be someone willing to do it
If the car wasn't bought too long ago, then try and get it done under used car warranty if you bought it off a dealer
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If i remember right then 3 screws all up and 1 clip before the door trim can be popped off + the cover that goes on the inside of the mirror above the door trim
2 screws are behind the silver door handle?, 1 behind the actual door handle/lever and 1 clip on the top right hand corner
Then pull the trim off from the bottom first, and then slide up
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Its fairly simple once you've fitted them once
Maybe google for instructions
Or post a picture of all parts and i may be able to help
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^ what he said, pretty common problem
aurions can be regreased, klugers cant and need the intermediate shaft replace
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A yaris only takes 3.6 or 3.7l of oil
Heck even a 2.4l rav only takes 4.2ls of oil
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pushing it into neutral when you are going through turns might be dangerous yeah? especially if you're braking, and shifting the weight of ur car around etc?
Yes it is dangerous, because realistically you have no control over the car
Coasting to a set of lights and anything straight line is ok, but coasting through a turn is just plain stupid
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^ They're not doing it right then
If its done right then it should hold uphill or downhill unless your handbrake shoes are worn out
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Sorry to hear about your situation, I'm surprised by the poor customer service shown by the dealer and toyota australia especially
Can't open the picture of your paint stains, but it must've been one ****ty dealership to let a car go just like that or he must've sold you a demo as a new car, but that still doesn't explain the paint stains
Either way the dealership sounds pretty dodgy
As for not being able to book in for a service till mid december, that may be as they're probably booked out till then
Realistically any dealer will book your car in for a service every week if you don't mind paying, so theres nothing like certain times of the year only for a service
I'd suggest going down to the dealership who sold you the car and to talk it out with the boss, a bit of screaming from the customer generally gets most things fixed right away at any decent dealership or workshop
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I think the OP may be referring to something the newer model camry's etc have, unsure what its called but something along the lines of blindspot detection
Otherwise like everyone else has said, just some $2 ones from any auto store should do
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Definitely not normal, handbrake should hold on an incline or decline
Shoes probably need a good clean, champfer and adjust along with the cable
A good reason why your handbrake won't hold is probably because they've only been adjusting your cable
The adjuster or whatever its called on aurions and camry's has real small teeth and always gets seized, so people never adjust the shoes and just keep tightening the cable, stretching it over time
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Oh wow, I could've sworn aurions have a dipstick for the auto transmission
Maybe im thinking of a different car
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Check colour and level of fluid on the dipstick
If its red/brownish should be ok for now, if its blackish its time to replace it
Also the dipstick has 2 levels, 1 is hot: max and min and the other is cold: max and min
So start car, put left leg on brake, hand brake on and put the car through the gears(ie in neutral for 5 seconds and rev, in drive for 5 secs and rev etc) and then in park eventually
Get out and check level, fluid should be around the cold max level(car must be running while the level is checked)
Then go for a long drive to get the fluid hot and check the hot level, should be near the hot max level
And depending on how low the fluid is, top it up or replace it if its dirty
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The geniune ones are pretty straightforward and the instructions are excellent
But problem lies in skill as on some cars you may have to take the rear/front bar off and not everyone's comfortable doing that
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Should be similar to the procedure fivese7en is talking about
Basically, disconnect negative terminal of battery, take drive belt off(in your case i believe the alternator acts as the tensioner so you have to loosen alternator bolts anyway)
Disconnect any plugs/cables on the alternator and then try and pull it out, it may have to be a case of loosen alternator completely and then work out what needs to be moved/removed to get the alternator off
But overall its fairly simple
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Battery could be on its way out or the alternator might not be charging it (more likely to be a battery issue though)
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Most places use mm, but most machines should have an option to change the units to degrees, and most manuals i've looked in, the specs are in degrees
'91 blown headlight bulb
in Celica Club
Posted
I've never worked on a celica before but generally globes either screw out anti clockwise or have that little pin holder thing holding them in
Depending on how much room you have, you may either have to work from the top, undo the guard and try and reach from there or take the headlight off