RL30WA

Hi guys,

I would like to share my experience with all the owners out there with the same model as mine ( 2013 AWD GRANDE GSU45R JTEES).

3 weeks ago, I spotted this high pitch noise coming from the front engine as I reversed out on a inclined drive way ( 35 degree) at 1200rpm. At that point, I quickly asked my wife to take a video so that I could lodge in the case to the dealer so that they can follow up this matter based on this evidence. I managed to secure a booking on the following Tuesday 8am. Few days before that, I decided to take it to my friend who is a very experinced mechanic for second opinion. He told me straightway that the noise shouldnt be there in the first place. Not with the car that only done 15000Km! He pointed out that the noise could be front the belt or the tensioner.

On the actual Tuesday morning, i mimicked the noise right in front of the foreman by putting in reverse gear, left foot on brake and right foot to rev the engine to 1200 rpm. He noted that he could hear it very clearly. At 2 pm, he called and told me that it could be just the ' CHARACTERISTICS' of the car and he couldn't do much at this point since he already tested the other 3 Klugers onsite and all have the same issue. Would you believe him? Of course, I wouldn't buy his explanation. He said he already reported this issue to Toyota Australia and he has to wait for further instructions. I told him to put down in writing for what he just mentioned to me and so he did. When I went to pick up my car ( 20 mins after phone conversation) , I didn't see any kluger onsite except mine. That made me doubted him even more. I stormed in and asked him where were the other Klugers. He said all gone except one sitting on the hoist to be finished. I was so angry that I told him I will get my mechanic to fix this so called the ' characteristic' of the car and send him the bill.

I dropped my car to my own mechanic on Saturday morning and hoping everything will just stopped then. Unfortunately, later in in the afternoon, he called and told me that the problem is actually more complicated than what he initially thought. The noise is actually coming from the torque converter and is even louder when the metal shild is removed ( as shown on video). At that moment, my heart just sunk. How could Toyota Japan designed something that doesn't last long. Is just like not toyota!

On the following Monday morning, I contacted Toyota headquarters in Tokyo and spoken to relevant party about this matter. I sent all the informations through and they did reply and forwarded all the correspondence to Toyota Australia.

Without any delay, the general manager of the actual dealership actually contacted to me for a meeting. We came to the aggrement that Toyota Western Australia will send out 2 gurus to look at this issue with me and the foreman alongside to make final decision. In fact, I saw a kluger onsite on that day and requsted the general manager to test the car whether it has the the same ' characteristic' as mine. And the answer is YES! Now the question is, is toyota is willing to come out with a statement saying that is is normal under specific circumstances? We shall find out soon

Regards

Rob

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Thank you for your input. I just listened to his suggestion and try it out.If the problem tends to come back after 1 week, i just ask him to swap it back what it was before!!!

Be honest, i am not sure what type of ATF that he put it in. He mentioned something like dextron 3. I might heard it wrongly. All i know is ATF and the shifting is much better now. I spoke to one mechanic before and he ever tried using AFT on manuel car to fix the hard shifting problem.I am trying it now and hope everthing is ok!!!!

Hi everyone,

As you guys know, most of the south african made corolla sportivo have some sort of GB issues. Ranging from gear selector problem to replacing the stock clutch to something extreme(exeddy clutch). My car is currently 86k on the clock. Never trash my car or even take it to the race track. I changed my stock gear oil at 40k to redline 75-95w lightweight oil to improve the shifting 2 years ago. Yes, it was pretty good until last month. For the last month or so, i find that up shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear is just so hard or sometimes i can feel there is a 'catch' if i can shift it in. I looked thru on our forum about how to solve this problem. Some of you even suggested using longer push rod, or adjust the height of the clutch pedal or some of u even suggested to use fully synthetic gear oil with nulon G70 additives to fix the problem. So, I decided to try the first option, that is to use 2 litre of fully synthetic Nulon 75-95 GL5 gear oil with 1 tube of G70 Nulon additives. Honestly, i didnt feel anything different at all for the first few days. On one particular night, I push my car to hit lift at 2nd and 3rd gear up to 10okmh and then i slowed down and drive as usual. The gear shift changed completely after that night. Up shifting becomes much easier and much nicer to drive.But i was still not satisfied with that. Therefore, i asked my local mechanic for a second opinion. He reckoned he will adjust the clutch first and then 'bleed' the gear oil and change it to automatic dextron 3 gear oil before changing the clutch. I drop my car in this morning and i had my car back around 5 pm. The car is so much better to drive compared to using fully synthetic nulon gear oil. He told me all he did was adjust the clutch as much he could and change to gear oil to dextron 3 automatic gear oil. He said i can drive the car for few days with that oil in there. If i am not happy, he can drop the oil and refill the the nulon fully synthetic oil back (he dropped it but he stored it away for me). I am very glad with the result and i will stick to it. The message that i want to get across is, using thinner oil like automatic dextron 3 oil is not a bad idea for our car. I have my car since day one and i can understand every single problem from this car that everyone on this forum is trying to 'fix'.

Thank you for your attention

I got mine from Cypher Industries. Pretty sure they were less then $1400

woo koni`s adjustables??? how much exactly? :P

G max suspension quoted me $990 installed and set up properly for me. I think i am going ahead with them. Thank you guys for your time to reply my question.

I need help. I think is about time for me to buy a new pair of suspension. Do you guys have any recommendations where to get them and how much would be it be?

Thanks in advance

How'd you go with the comparison?

Are we talking about Torque steer here,all vehicles are designed to pull to the left as a safety mechanism but if you're accelerating & it pulls sharply (like an oversteer feel) then it may be mechanical?

I talk with the Boys from Tyrepower Cvale all the time as i give my own specs for mine all the time (from past adjustments) & they'de set me up accordingly bearing in mind i have Camber bolts fitted,do have any non stock items on you car like struts or camber bolts?

Before the alligment, my car is running straight but now the car is pulling to the left. I dont think is mechanical problem. They suggested me to get a set of camber bolts and then they can set it as straight as possible. How come this problem only happen after they put 4 brand new tyres for me? What specs do you tell them to do? U mean the spec that posted on our forum? Be honest, i really dont know how to compare between my figure that they have given me with the spec posted on this forum? Thanks in advance

I'm learning/doing wheel alignments at work at the moment i must say its pretty simple but also hard depending on the technique you use

if your having that much trouble with your car it maybe due to Tyre directional rotation?? are they on the right side?? maybe Tyre pressures aren't right?

Vu, everything checked. But the problem is still there. I will check the print out first so that i know what i want them to do next time. Thanks for your suggestion

Hi guys, I bought 4 brand new TOYO TEO tyres from tyre power in canningvale. Everything is ok EXCEPT my wheel alligment is completley out. At first, my steering wasnt straight and i had to go back for a few times to get them to fix it. Eventually, i managed to ask my friend who is an exprerince mechanic to straighten my steering wheel for me At no cost. But the car keeps pulling to the left if i let go my steering for more than 5 seconds. I just want someone who is good at what he is doing to fix my problem. Please note, before i had 4 brand new tyres, my steering is straight as. Now, i am just not happy at all. I still can put up with it but it is just annoying me that if i let go the steering, the car is pulls to the left

Did you get the specs of the alignment? If you did compare it to the one that SD has put up in the suspension pages.

thanks. I did have a print out. i will compare it now.

Hi guys, I bought 4 brand new TOYO TEO tyres from tyre power in canningvale. Everything is ok EXCEPT my wheel alligment is completley out. At first, my steering wasnt straight and i had to go back for a few times to get them to fix it. Eventually, i managed to ask my friend who is an exprerince mechanic to straighten my steering wheel for me At no cost. But the car keeps pulling to the left if i let go my steering for more than 5 seconds. I just want someone who is good at what he is doing to fix my problem. Please note, before i had 4 brand new tyres, my steering is straight as. Now, i am just not happy at all. I still can put up with it but it is just annoying me that if i let go the steering, the car is pulls to the left

got a 05 stivo and is still under statutory warranty from a dealership secondhand, i took it in with a rattle in the gearbox when idling in neutral with clutch disengaged, once i engage the clutch the noise goes away, once a/c kicks in the noise gets heavier. i had a feeling that the throw out bearing may be shagged but the mechanic at the dealership said that it was just gear rollover but im not happy with his decision cos if it cost me big dollars later to replace throwout bearing and most prolly clutch if it fails due to the bearing im gonna be ******... the question is has anyone else got so called gear rollover in their 6 speed???

p.s i have a wrxc with a straightcut ge****t in it and it has gear rollover and it sounds nothin like this rattle noise.

cheers stacey

I totally understand your problem. I had this problem back in 2 years ago and i told the chief mechanic this problem has to be fixed. I told them i would not pick up this car until it fixed. I gave them 2 weeks to fix it because i was going away for holiday at that time. Accoding to my invoice, the crutched was replaced and the problem solved. Solved in the way that the rattle noise is much lesser than before. They told me that is the best they can do !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Guess what. I managed to find out the problem by myself. The inside wall of the tyre starts to become swollen and cause the uneven surface of the tyre. Do not buy any FEDERAL TYRES. Wasting my time !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Overtightening those nuts is not always the best thing to do. It can sometimes damage the thread. Did you end up checking the engine mounts?

Not yet. Be honest, i dont think is anything to do with engine mounts.Everything started affer the first balancing. I really regret now, I wish i never try to do the wheels balanced in the fist place.

I took my gf's car (01 corolla sedan) for wheel balancing about a week ago. Unfortunately, the vibration coming thru the sterring wheel even after that.I took it back and the guy said the front tyres all balanced. Then,i realised this time then vibration started to come thru the sit and the wheel as well. I was totally dissapointed for the fact that i made it WORSE! I took it to other shop for second opinion and he said he found a flat spot on the left rear tyre. He suggested to me that as long as i change the both rear tyres, the vibration should be gone. He also helped me to do the balancing for all of them. Guess what, still couldnt fix the problem. He said could be the the high spot on the disc brake that causing the vibration. I took my car for brake skimming this morning. All went ok but that horrible vibration is STILL THERE !!!!!!!!!!!.

SO, I DESPATELY NEED HELP FROM THE FORUM MEMBERS TO TELL ME HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM.

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.

i don't know if I had the same situation as you now.

I also had vibration coming thru the steering wheel, later on, I found out it was due to overtightten of the front wheel nuts.

best for you is to get a torque wrench, and check if the wheel nuts have the correct tension. which should be 77Ftp or 104Nm.

I just found out that my wheels have been tighten up to the point that i need to get someone to use extra long wrench to unto it. I tighten up all the scews again using ordinary wrench and hopefully this approach will fix the problem.................

He said could be the the high spot on the disc brake that causing the vibration.

Thats only true if there is pulsing while braking.

Try and get a hold of another set of wheels and tyres to put on the back to see if there really is an issue with the rear tyres before spending any more money. See if you can borrow any 03-06 Corolla rims off of someone to test it out. But make sure they aren't having the same problems you are since you are tryign to isolate the issue.

Is the steering going from left to right by itself? Or does it feel vague, like are you having to turn the wheel a little left and right all the time to keep it straight for no reason at all?

after going thru 3 different tyre shops, is getting better now. The last guy that i went to yesterday just tighten up the screw so thight that i not able to unscew it even i step on top of the spanner. I managed to get someone to unsrew it and tighthen it up myself and see how it goes. Tighten up the scews too tight is not a good idea right?

do you have aftermarket wheels or Stock wheels?

speed wheels which was installed 3 years ago

I took my gf's car (01 corolla sedan) for wheel balancing about a week ago. Unfortunately, the vibration coming thru the sterring wheel even after that.I took it back and the guy said the front tyres all balanced. Then,i realised this time then vibration started to come thru the sit and the wheel as well. I was totally dissapointed for the fact that i made it WORSE! I took it to other shop for second opinion and he said he found a flat spot on the left rear tyre. He suggested to me that as long as i change the both rear tyres, the vibration should be gone. He also helped me to do the balancing for all of them. Guess what, still couldnt fix the problem. He said could be the the high spot on the disc brake that causing the vibration. I took my car for brake skimming this morning. All went ok but that horrible vibration is STILL THERE !!!!!!!!!!!.

SO, I DESPATELY NEED HELP FROM THE FORUM MEMBERS TO TELL ME HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM.

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.

i had the exact problem like u few months ago. All u need to do is to ask your mechanic to tighten the screws on the lower arm of the suspension. There should be 3 screws on each side of the suspension. i thinks i happen over time where the screw come loss especially if you like to go hard on the corner. Beware: it requires a lot of energy to tighthen up the screw. watch out your back or else you will end up hurting your back

are the new brake rotors a big difference?? i find that the standard rotors are fine.. does it stop quicker or is it just good for when u constantly braking so it cools down quicker n better??

The main reason i replaced the old one with slotted disc is simply bcoz i have had skim the rotor twice and i cant see any point at all to skim the disc again which is only going to last me probably at the max of 1-2 years. When my mechanic tried to do few hard application, you can actually see the smoke coming out from the disc. I did tried to touch the rotor and didnt seems that hot at all compared to my stock one. I remember he rev the car to 80k then he hit the brake hard and i can fell the car slow down very quickly and smoothly with any vibration on my steering. I hope this explation will give you some idea about the performance of the slotted disc

heyy guys,

im thinking of getting DBA slotted rotors for the front pair on my 1zz because they need to be machined but also to improve braking performance.. my question is, would replacing all four rotors be an overkill or is it economic to replace everything in the one go... its mainly for city driving but with some track sprints in mind for later testing

FYI, im looking to pair the slotted rotors with Bendix GCT pads...

appreciate any input

cheers

Since our car is front wheel drive, i think replacing the front disc with slotted one is good enough. The one that i am using one is very good. Slotted disc plus good brake pad definately will keep you happy. My package definately gives me good stopping power and the thing is No squicking noise at all'. That is my opinion anyway

After putting up with the terrible stock rotors for newly 3 years, i finally replaced it with dba slotted disc and feredo premium pad. The total cost is around $520 fitted. I sourced all the parts my self and i get my neighbour who is the machanic to put in on for me ( he charged me $50 but i gave him a bit extra. Without his help, i would have completely stuck!!).I bought the DBA slotted disc from supercheap auto for $179 each and the feredo pads from Veale automotive. The young man from the veale parts shop said he can get me feredo excel pad with part no: DB1714 for 60 bucks a pair which is quite fair price.to me. Not untill then, my mechanic said the brake pad is wrong size. It was completely different from the stock size. Then i went to repco and supercheap with my stock brake pad hoping they can find something in different brand but same size. All of them said SORRY ' NOT IN STOCK". Then i went back to my neighbour house again to ask him where is the next stop for me so that i can get the brake pad is going to suit my car. He took out his Bosch brake pad book started looking every toyota model and compare the actual size of the pad at the back of the book with my stock brake pad size. He finally managed to come out with part no: 1431( if not mistaken) or FDB 1528( 100% sure) which is listed under toyota "verso". The previous saleman that i been thru they all looked under " toyota sportivo 2zze123 moder or toyota celica model which will give you the part of 1422 or 1714 or 1425 which are completely wrong. With FDB 1528, is 100% fit and 100% same size as the stock one. The Feredo premium pad that i got just now is surprisingly MADE IN THE USA and feredo excel that i bought before hand is MADE IN THAILAND.

For those who is seeking for same size pad as the stock one, part no: FDB 1528 is the way to go. You will never go wrong with this.

I just want to share my experice with you guys who might have some problems seeking the same size brake pad as the stock one

Thank you. THE END

I did my 60k service at Kalamunda Toyotas..Overall was quite a good experience..customer-friendly and i'd say quite cheap as well ..changed filter oils, gasket, the usual engine oil and etc. altogether for $195. only thing thats to complain about is they didnt keep stock spare parts for stivo cos i neeeded new brake pads..

Anyway went to the other toyota SC just off welshpool rd, cant really remember the name..They were even better than Kalamunda's..changed brakepads, wipers and smoothen/polish my rotors due to worn out brakepads

Was darn surprised they didnt charge me for it..altogether i paid like $110 for the lot. Wouldnt mind going back there for my 70k service

man that sounds more like a service! :D do u have da number? :P

thats is very cheap just a rotor skim,normally thats hundred,30 for the (genuine)wipers & brake pads...well?...shall we go on?..is the 60k a major or minor service by the logbook? thats sounds like a minor being $195.00 thats alot for an oil change..I think the place you went to was Newtown toyota

I bought my sportivo there and had them service my car since day one. Last service ( 50,oook service) cost me $ 195.00. The service includes Toyota genuine synthetic engine oil and oil filter,standard check for 50,000 service, vacumm and wash the car, and most importantly they provide me the loan car for free with half tank full of fuel. Last time they gave a brand new yaris s and also they ever gave me the toyota aurion as a loan car. How good is that.. Free loan car really makes my life easier........I think jason is the best person to talk to in service department

I Used injector Cleaners in my 4AGE heaps.... and i never really noticed a bunch of difference.. i just used them every 5000's as i changed my oils and filters.

i dont see what the big deal is using them on a later model Corolla. can anyone back this argument up with a service note or Factory warning?

regards

BKS.

Not sure what sort of product did you use last time. This stuff really makes my car much smoother to drive. I put the same thing in my girlfriend's car and she even can feel the difference. For a girl that knew nothing about car to feel such a difference, i should say it must be working to make such a difference.

I know most of you in this forum have negative opinions on using fuel injector cleaner. However i took the risk and tried it out on my sportivo. It really works........ I asked my friend who works for toyota to get me a bottle of genuine toyota fuel injector cleaner which cost me around $14.00. Guess what, it is not made by local company that supplles to toyota. This stuff is clearly written as 'MADE IN JAPAN'. It is very simple to use. Use your fuel gauge as indicator eg: if you have half tank of fuel left, the just pour this 125ml of liquid into your fuel tank. I suggest you to wash it down with $10.00 of fuel to avoid any residue that might be corrosive to on the opening ( or the neck ) of fuel tank. I did this because my friend told me it is quite corrosive may burn a hole if you didnt wash it down with some petrol ( not sure how true is this). I guess is quite true and that is why you only do it every 50.000km. i can surely tell you now my car is much smoother to drive and get extra 10-15k out from each top up.

I spoke to a mechanic the other day and he suggested me that we should use the fuel injector cleaner to give the injector a good clean every 50,000km. He said the best product is Holden top end fuel injector cleaner. I rang up a Holder dealer to enquire about this product and the guy said this product has been discountined due to envirolmental pollution that this product can cause. He said i can buy another type that also made by holden and it only cost me $10 ( $5 each). He said just put this thing into your fuel tank and fill the tank up. This method should give our car a better smooth drive. Any of you guys have any experince with this sort of product ( regardless what brand)? I already asked my friend who works for toyota to buy for me. He said is out of stock from toyota atm. Your input into this topic would be appreciated!!!!!!!!!!