Mk1_Oz

Not genuine parts. Dayco(?) Timing Belt/water pump kit $265 AC & Alt belts $53 Cam cover seal kit $43 Oil $33 Distilled water $10 RTV $10 Degreaser $9 Yes those holes turned out to be threaded deep inside so I made up a second puller using them. Much simpler and worked a treat. Got the camshaft seal in and new water pump on. Crank seal tomorrow then oil pump seals then cam cover seals then bolt it all back together. Took me AGES to get the right side engine mount bracket off as none of my sockets or spanners would get onto the nut. Ended up making a 30x12x12mm block of aluminium to use in the end of a socket that a spanner would then get onto. NOT looking forward to putting it back in tomorrow!! An item of concern. The harmonic balancer now has a couple of chips out of the edge of the power steering pulley (the smaller of the two). Is this likely to cause issues with the balancer no longer being in balance??? It si only about 3mm of the edge and about an inch or 2 long so very little weight. Thoughts???

Well don't I regret starting this job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AUD$460 in parts to start with. Anybody got any good ideas for pulling the harmonic balancer off the crank? Mine has 2 holes in it that do not appear to be threaded and also a small circular dish next to one of the holes. I have made up a puller that grabs behind the larger of the 2 pullies and uses a bolt to push against the crank. No dice. Just tore through the 4mm steel I made it from without budging one little bit. I don't have an oxy torch so thought I would apply some heat (for ages!) with a hairdryer just incase it heated it up enough to loosen. Got too hot to touch but no dice. I cannot see how a puller from the shop/store would work due to there not being any threaded holes unless the 2 holes I have have threads way down deep inside them? At a loss. Taken me 6 hours to remove the top timing cover, the right side engine mount and now trying to get the harmonic balancer off so that I can remove the bottom timing cover. Well cheesed off at the moment. PS - it appears the Aussie cars have some differences to the US ones that are shown in the Haynes manual. PPS - time for a bigger hammer!

Cheers mate. I have just found an excellent write up on the toyotanation forum detailing how to replace all these seals (half way thru reading it). Yes it looks like replacing the lot is a good move anyway. Also, the engine now has 200,000km on it and the timing belts are supposed to be changed every 100,000km so may as well go for it! I hate working on oily engines though.....gr Do people tend to replace the oil pump at these sorts of distances (125,000 miles in your speak)? Might chuck a new water pump in there if it isn't too pricey just not sure about the oil pump.

Still failrly new to Celicas but all the issues I am having are forcing me to learn fast!!! The car recently ran itself dry of oil - the oil light started to come on but the young lad didn't seem to think it important to tell me or to check the oil. I put around 3.5 - 4.0L of oil in it so it was VERY low. Seems to still be hanging together but who knows how much additional wear the motor now has. Anyway..... I took the plastic undertry off and had a good poke around. When running the engine is dripping oil quite quickly from the front just above the sump gasket line. I am not familiar with these engines so cannot work out exactly what I am looking at. The arrows show where the oil is coming from: In the last pic the oil is coming from behind the black plastic cover from somewhere in that gap. Can anybody help me out with: 1. Where is the likely source? What is behind there that I don't know about? 2. Likely to be a gasket or a seal??? 3. Is this an engine out fix? Appreciate your assistance as I do not have any reference books or manuals.

Can somebody tell me if the speedometer on a 1990 ST184 is cable operated or if it is electronic? I had a mate back in the day with one of this shape Celica who had a switch in the speedo wire so that he could turn it on and off hence his particular one was electronic but I am unsure of the year of his. My speedo started to bounce around alot, then had period were it wasn't working at all but now has permanently stooped working. Can anybody suggest areas to look at? I really don't want to have to pull the dash apart and am hoping that in trying to fix other things under the bonnet that maybe I have knocked the transmission sender. Where under the bonnet should I be looking for the transmission sender/speedo cable?

OK finally got it running sweet. I pulled apart alot of the EGR system. Cleaned the filter, manually operated the EGR valve to try to dislodge any carbon preventing it from opening/closing, put new ignition leads on it.......viola I fail to believe that leads would cause knocking under acceleration so maybe I did something to the EGR system. Thanks all.

Either my thread has people stumped or there is not alot of traffic in here :( I have now replaced the distributor cap and rotor to no avail. Did not replace the leads as they were $240/set. The ones I have look ok but I guess I cannot be totally sure. Not sure that bad leads would cause knocking? The one thing I have yet to test (as I dont have the correct meter) is the fuel pressure. This could well cause low power although I am not sure it would be responsible for the knocking just off idle? So so lost and in need of input.....

Yes did that too. about 175-180psi on all cylinders.

More playing in the shed. I have now tested the EGR valve (the best I can accorsing to the service book). I sucked on the top vacuum line and it held the vacuum and with the car running that caused it to stall = good according to book. I suck tested other vacuum lines (the ones to the charcoal cannister) and they all hold a vacuum. The three vacuum lines on the trottle body all have vacuum/no vacuum at the correct times. I put a timing light on it and at idle it shows sorta 10 degrees. Hard to tell really as the gauge has a mark for 0, a mark for 5, 2 marks for 10!!. Sits just on the first of the 10 marks which may or may not indicate it is a touch low. When the revs are bliped the advance shoots to high then settles back a little. Not sure if it should advance quite so quickly (I am of the old skool non-electronic ignition breed!!!!). The distributor rotor has some cracks on the top just where the metal tang sicks out the front although appears to still have strength and integrity. The 4 pins in the cap are half worn through although I have not seen a new one so don't know if it started off like that or not. Will replace anyway I think. Air gap on the distributor sensor is close to 0.008 (allowable is 0.008 - 0.016") so should be fine. This knocking/pinging upon slight acceleration (even under no load) really has me beaten!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HELPPPPPPPPPP

Thanks. Just bridged the E1 and TE1 terminals in the diagnostic port and the service light continually fast flashes. This has me a little confused UNLESS what I am seeing is actually a code 1 flash (single flash) repeated over and over? Probably got 3 flashes per second at a guess. Comments??

Hi from a new posting member! I have recently bought a 1990 Celica ST184 with a 5S-FE motor. It has been great for 6 months but the other day it nearly killed me when whilst pulling onto the freeway it started to misfire, surge and lose power resulting in a near miss with a truck :( To solve the poor running I have tried to be methodical and so far have; replaced the spark plugs (3 looked the same but one had dark carbon deposits on it) replaced the fuel filter replaced the oil filter and oil replaced the air filter checked the voltage outputs of the MAP sensor (all seems ok as far as I can tell) checked the continuity of the throttle position sensor (all ok) had the injectors cleaned and tested (all ok) checked for vacuum leaksAlthough the above has resulted in a smoother running car it is still not well. As it now stands it starts and idles nicely but has the following faults; upon pressing the accelerator the engine noticeably knocks until the revs build engine knocking can be heard (I think) under load generally it then accelerated smooth although at 2800rpm something seems to switch and it comes a little more alive down on power in all areas makes a sound very similar to an exhaust leak as it drives (although I cannot find an exhaust leak!)I am at a total loss now. I have not recently put fuel in so the knocking must surely be ignition driven? Low coil output? Ignition somehow suddenly jumped out? Anybody had similar experiences and know the solution?