Blick

wrong catagory

Hi JT3, I'm very interested in your Gen7 Celica TRD body kit you have for sale, firstly are you prepared to ship to Brisbane? I'm most interested in the front lip and rear wing but you probably want to sell the whole lot, thats fine. Can you provide side on shots of the wing please.

but i want it too!!!!

But you got no money !!

Hi JT3, I'm very interested in your Gen7 Celica TRD body kit you have for sale, firstly are you prepared to ship to Brisbane? I'm most interested in the front lip and rear wing but you probably want to sell the whole lot, thats fine. Can you provide side on shots of the wing please.

Ball joint lower mount?

Have you got pictures of the DMS for your Celica?

Actually they are spherical bearings, I just replaced them, the originals were way too noiey (squeeking)

I've run them for 12 months now and sill work fine on track and easy to live with on the street, the front spring are a tad too soft.

I'm looking for a sportivo corolla sump off a 2zz have access to am engine it has no sump thou, thinking of converting my wagon, anyone know if a 1zz dump will fit?

I bought this vehicle new in May 2007, & it's plated 2007. Overall it's a brilliant car, the best I've ever owned.

However, from day one, I've experienced one nagging problem-----warm air constantly blows into the car, no matter what setting. In winter this is not a problem, but in summer....

The dealer supposedly examined & fixed the problem at the first free service. Not so.

Calls to various other Toyota dealers & to Toyota Australia gave me a variety of explanations---some quite ridiculous---

1 that's the way it is, drive with aircon on all the time;

2 that's the way it is because new air passes over the motor;

3 that's the way it is, & no one has experienced the same problem;

4 the vast expanse of windscreen makes it difficult to cool such a car(don't forget I'm talking about stopping warm air constantly entering the cabin, not about the efficiency of the airconditioning system: I may as well mention that I think, as a layman, that the aircon is affected by the warm air, but I'd rather fix the first problem before questioning the aircon's efficacy);

5 that's the way it is, have you checked that the intakes are not blocked by leaves etc---I have & they are not;

6 that's the way it is, shut the cabin inlet doors or switch to recirculating.

Other, more wiser people---my mechanic & a few aircon servicemen--- have suggested that the actual inlet doors(call them what you will) are constantly jammed in a position that allows warm air entry, no matter what other setting has been chosen. Of course further examination of the system has not been carried out by these people because the car is under warranty & such problems need to addressed by the Toyota dealer.

A second investigation by this dealer a few months later resulted in no improvement, with some doubts cast on my ability to distinguish between outside temperature air & the warm air I was experiencing in the cabin, with a bonus explanation( one of the 6 above).

I am now appealing for some help prior to approaching the dealer again (the dealer has always been courteous & obliging).

Does anyone have a suitable explanation? I cannot believe that this is standard operating procedure for an Avensis. And I have owned enough cars to know that the problem is real & not of my imagination.

Thanks in anticipation,

Vik.

I've had the same problem with all 3 of my Corolla's, The problem is that hot water is constanly flowing through the heat exchanger and the temp is regulated by a flap in the air ducting which directs air through it or by passes it depending on your climate controle setting. Even when you set this to the coldest setting heat soak still warms the air. I fixed this by removing the hoses to the cabin heat exchanger (Of cause I capped the tubes with hose blanks). Now the air con works much better in summer (it doesn't have to over come the heat soak) and as I live in South East Queensland, not having a heater is not much of a problem. You could always reconnect the hoses at the start of each winter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deoVQxbPz-g

SuperPa

A mate of mine, he's on this forum(GoHard) has asked me to post this for him because he cant use his right arm atm....

Last Sat night he was involved in an accident. Well he lost control of his sportivo and flipped the car and now its a write off. Basically the whole shell of the car is banged up( beyond repair). Engine is still intact and interior still all good. He needs some advice as on what to do. He has two choices. Pay the towing company $1200(fees) for them to return the car to him so he can salvage the parts and sell them off or not pay the $1200 and let them have the car. Unfortunately he didn't have insurance on the car :(.

He is just thinking if he can make abit of $$$ from the wreck cause he has basically lost a huge amount of $$$...

cheers

Check out the wreckers prices, you'll find the're asking $5,500 for the 2ZZ motor and gearbox, that alone is good enough reason to get it towed home!

Well "Blick" I just pipped you on the economy, (pre-face lift Sportivo) I got 6.5l/100k, I got 899k out of the tank and it took 58.5 litres to fill (right up to the top of the filler neck). If I had a jerry can in the back I would have tried for 920k and would probably have got it.

OK. You win!

I just couldn't bare to drive that slow again for 900+k's

hey guys,

just wondering what an 05 or 06 model corolla sportivo engine would be worth?

has anyone done any conversions with this engine to fit any other cars besides corollas?

cheers

You can get a crate engine down to $6800 if you haggle here in Oz, but this does not include accessories like manifolds, alternator, ECU, etc.

Old thread revival!

Just filld up and got 865km from 57L giving me 6.59L/100km (42.8 MPG for the old skool). I could have cracked the 900km mark :o . Driving was about 60% highway, 40% city on Optimax Extreme and yes I did use lift on occassion, otherwise I shifted at 3000rpm.

I bet this is nothing new to the 1ZZ owners.

Well "Superdave" I just pipped you on the economy, (face lift Sportivo) I got 6.5l/100k, I got 850k out of the tank and it took 55.27 litres to fill (right up to the top of the filler neck). If I had a jerry can in the back I would have tried for 900k and would probably have got it.

I had to get FBT miles on it so I just cruised up and down the freeways at 100kph, no lift involved, rpm kept below 4000rpm. It sure was boring. My normal average is 7.8l/100k.

1. here is a link to the service manual page on how to do a clutch adjustment

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=2676

u can do it yourself but it is extremely hard... u need a really really stubby spanner and a sh!t load of patience.

2. whoever said that the adjustment changes the height of the pedal is completely wrong... how could changing the height of the pedal make any difference to the clutch itself? it makes no sense.

Read the document... the only thing that gets adjusted is the free play of the clutch, and also the free play of the pushrod. If you take your car to toyota and they make your clutch pedal higher, take it back and tell them not to be idiots and do it properly this time.

The basic problem is that the pressure plate is not fully openning to allow easy shifts above 6000rpm, the adjustmnent in question is to adjust the clutch pedal push rod making it longer, the very act of making it longer will cause the pedal to slightly higher from the fire wall. Making the push rod longer and pedal higher provides for more dissengagement of the pressure plate when the pedal is pressed, check the diagram again, you'll see it, in step (a) and (B) it says adjust the pedal height. A lot of Sportivos were coming from the factory with the pedal height too low.

and please my Toyota mechanic is not an idiot.

So if I was to explain this to the mechanic... What exactly would I tell him needs to be adjusted??? Or if I explain what actually happens, will he know what needs to be done???

Cheers :D

The clutch pedal height has to be raised, there is an adjustment behind the pedal, this allows more pedal travel into the clutch master cyclinder when the clutch pedal is depressed, thus giving more movement at the clutch slave cyclinder so that the pressure plate opens further (more dissengagement).

I hope you get my drift

This has all been covered before, I seem to remember that pictures were posted of the adjustments, do a seach, they should still be there.

Mine was adjusted 50,000k ago and it still shifts 1st to 2nd smoothly at 8,000rpm.

Hey guys... I'm new to the forum incase you couldn't tell ;)

Anyways... Recently, we bought ourselves a 2005 Black Corolla Sportivo. By we, I mean it's a car that my family shares... Mainly driven by me and my brother(s)... I love it... And you guys might not like the sound of this... But I'm actually learning to drive manual with this car

Pics:

I'm getting used to the whole manual thing... And I actually love it. BUT... I'm having trouble shifting out of 1st gear once the car has hit lift. It's as if the clutch isn't engaging or something... The gearstick just gets stuck there and becomes very hard to move until the revs drop enough to get the car out of lift... If I do try hard enough and get it out of first, it's just as hard to push into 2nd. I learnt my lesson of not hitting lift when the car is still cold... So I wait till it's warm before trying it. But it's very annoying... When I'm trying to take off reasonably quickly, I've actually been shifting out of 1st at just under 6k to avoid hitting lift, and then taking 2nd into lift. There is no other problems with shifting whilst in lift at all... Just that one.

Now... Am I doing something wrong here or does this sound like a problem with the car???

Thanks for the help in advance... Please don't blast me :(

Cheers :)

You need a clutch pedal height adjustment, some dealers don't know about it, I tried a couple of toyota dealers but on advice from another forum member I took it to Lexus to get it adjusted.

First to second at redline is now slick.

hey Guys

i knwo alot of you have go thte clutch changed.

How much $$ ballpark should i be looking at paying to get a clutch installed and the main seal replaced.

I already have the clutch i just need to get it installed, replace the seal (60 bucks frm toyota) and machine the flywheel.

what would i expact to pay for somthing like this and how logn will my car be out for?

Cheers

Bill

It's highly recommened you replace the flywheel bolts, you're not supposed to re-use the old ones, 8 bolts will set you back $91 or so. (2ZZ motor)

hey,

I have a whiteline rear swaybar and the thing keeps on making a popping sound at first i though fk i broke the damn thing but its ok so i just tightened it again but the bloody thing keeps on popping especially over moderate speed humps or going around corners sometimes. So what? Need to go to the gym more and tighten again or rip the thing off and check for cracks?

I did mine up tight with a one meter socket handle, now it doesn't make a sound.

Old thread revival!

Just filld up and got 865km from 57L giving me 6.59L/100km (42.8 MPG for the old skool). I could have cracked the 900km mark :o . Driving was about 60% highway, 40% city on Optimax Extreme and yes I did use lift on occassion, otherwise I shifted at 3000rpm.

I bet this is nothing new to the 1ZZ owners.

Good one Superdave, yes indead a 1zz can do better, my old Silver Levin (pre facelift) got 5.8 Lt/100 on a trip to Byron Bay and back (that's 48.4 mpg in old school talk).

Just this afternoon I was revving 1st gear to 8000rpm and tried to shift into 2nd and it wouldnt let me shift into the gear and i had to take out the clutch and depress it again to get it into gear. Should I take back to toyota? I also am experiencing a strange sounds every now and then, but it not a rattle. And im finding it very hard to pin point the issue.

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see http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=4652

thanks for the reply.

HE IS A TOOL, but hes the only genuine sevice around. so i have to stick with the tool.

but if anyone knows specifically what stivos got recalled, then ill take it to get done and get them to adjust the clutch pedal.

can someone please confirm that adjusting the clutch pedal makes shifting a bit smoother.

thanks

Trav

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Yes, It's 2 simple clutch adjustments.

1. Clutch hight adjustment.

2. Clutch push rod adjustment.

They are behind the clutch pedal, between the pedal and the fire wall.

It's been covered in this forum before, do a search and you'll find pictures as well.

The push rod is pretty difficult to do, I got Lexus of Brisbane to do both my Sportivos.

I shall be

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So where did everybody go??

yeah! i used av gas in my corsa! it made a huge diff! any worries of detonation gone!

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Doesn't AVGAS contain lead???

When ever I get a new car I like to do a run till empty, that way I know how far the needle will go, the Sportivo's fuel gauge needle will drop way past the empty line and will actually point at the "E".

Probably not recommended but I've had no problems.

If you're going to try this don't forget the jerry can.

hey i was WOndering Is the Gears box any GoOd ?? how does it shift up and down are there any kinks in between changin gears ;) ?

lol btw is the reverse in the front confusing?

cause i cant  imagine if some one accidentally putt it in R when they're about to run ...can this happen...... in know its sounds stupid... ;) buh i need to know what i need to know lol :D

i personally preffer reverse  gear in the rear makes life easier :D

Bloody euro influenced gear box i bet cha....

ChEeriO...

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I don't have any problems with reverse, but I do have problems changing from 5th down to 4th, I just can't slide it into that 4th gear slot first time from 5th.

Does anyone else have this issue?

I just got 821k out of a tank

u drive a prius u liar :P :P :P

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normally im lucky to get 5 hungies but since changing to vortex 98 i've been ettin 560 -580's

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I did that driving from Brisbane to Toowoombah and back sitting on a constant 100kph along with other freeway driving around Brisbane.

The worst Ive got out of the Sportivo is 8.5l/100k, (my average is 7.8).

My wife gets slightly better economy out of the Sportivo than I do.

Speaking of the wife, she has a Corolla Levin 2002 and we got 5.8l/100k (48.4mpg) on a trip from Brisbane to Byron Bay and return.

I'm quite a bit older than most of you guys and I rarely rev past 5000rpm, I hit lift once or twice a week.

The trick to getting good economy is to keep the revs low and slow down early for those red traffic lights.

Yes, it's a black Sportivo with 35,000k on it.