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problem solved with just a fuel filter change this morning!!!

Just replaced with new AF sensor i ordered from Denso USA. part no. 234-9010. connector has slightly different groove, therefore had to swap out the connector.

after first drive around just now, the problem is still there. next would have to try replacing fuel pressure regulator o-ring,.

sorry it should be 1.8 - 3.4ohm at 20 degree C.

Not yet solved. I am now waiting for a new air fuel ratio sensor to arrive. I speak to few person and at this moment looks like it may be the cause. Although there's no MIL, but I measured it to be 13ohm whereas spec requires 0.4 to 1.8ohm.

After I install the new denso 234-9010 sensor I'll update again.

no longer required. purchase a new denso unit from USA. still wayyyy cheaper than new one from Toyota..hehe

Looking for an upstream air fuel ratio sensor for 2004 camry 2AZ-FE (2.4L motor).

i suspect mine is defective. while it didnt throw a MIL light, but i suspect its giving me very odd starting issues. measured its resistance to 13.6ohm when manual specs is about 1.6ohm only.

Read in some forum people had same issue and was resolved by replacing new battery. I changed a new one too but no resolution still.

Now I'm wondering if my measured air fuel sensor resistance of 13ohm, is in fact an oxygen sensor.. not sure previous owner replaced it before and mistakenly put an oxygen sensor in instead of air fuel sensor.

13ohm seems to be reading of an oxygen sensor at 20c

How much km do you have in your camry? That seems to be alot of dirt. Didnt know fuel could be that dirty.

What did you use to clean and how did you clean the dirt off?

quite sure it does! hehe

http://www.goss.com.au/products/GE251

alternatively you can buy GOSS pump from SCA/Repco etc. this pump comes with the sock filter. way cheaper, for my 2004 camry it's only $90.

23220-0H070 is the fuel pump with the sock (filter)

don't think you can just change the sock only.

Today checked my sensors. Coolant temp sensor, camshaft position sensor and a/f sensor. all are within spec except for a/f sensor. it requires 1.8 - 3.4 ohm but i measured 13 ohm. i need to reconfirm this reading again.

if its a v6 engine then there's timing belt. if its a 4 cylinder engine, then it runs on timing chain, which doesnt need replacing

Hi mbruce..

that's what i least wanted haha. means i have to take out the fuel pump assembly. do you know exactly which oring was causing it? My guess would be the fuel pressure regulator oring?

mine 2004 Altise is also facing same thing. bulb is gone on the centre. browsing at toyotanation forum, seems like USA version has replaceable bulbs. I have not took out mine to check though.

today i tried cleaning the MAF sensor. it was found to be quite dirty with dirt stuck covering entirely half of the red bulb. spray it and the hot wires with CRC's MAF sensor cleaner. so far the warm engine hard start remain unchanged.

i am still googling around and seems to point to a possible faulty fuel pressure regulator. For its mileage i think is still too new to happen. but it doesnt make sense, if it can't hold pressure then car should take long to crank up in the cold as well.

i tried putting in fuel injector cleaner, ran that half tank up. and now just filled up RON98. see if there's any improvement after few hundred km.

UPDATE 1/11/13:

all these hassle was simply caused by a dirty fuel filter only. Problem solved this morning by only replacing with a new fuel filter.

This is an uncommon problem. my car is currently 115k KM, regularly serviced.

when cold, in the morning, it starts fine, normal with one quick crank. Drove it around, engine warms up, went to woolies to get some stuff. Then when it's warm, engine only starts with longer cranking. sometimes only starts on the second crank attempt.

the cranking is normal as when its cold. Just that the engine fires up with longer crank when warm. google around doesn't show much information. some talks about a possible going-to-be-faulty Open Circuit Relay (fuel pump relay), fuel pump wearing out, low fuel pressure, faulty spark plugs, carbon built up in combustion chamber.

I figured out it couldnt be fuel pump faulty or low fuel pressure or faulty spark plugs- engine doesnt hesitate at all during normal driving and hard acceleration. idling is normal and smooth.

i havent check on the plugs. as for carbon built up, might need to try putting some injector cleaner and see if there's improvement.

definitely change it. in the owners manual i am sure there's a mention on interval of change.

i just had my key cutted for $5.50 and done the coding as per your instructions above...worked marvelous!!

do you want to sell it?

as per topic..white color required. Mine got stolen..

thanks alot!! i didnt know that an uncut key can even be inserted into the key cylinder. i'll have a try and update you guys again

2004 altise with 2AZ-FE...

can you post up the coding instructions or PM me?

It's still working good, i just need to make another spare master key..