Chompies

Haha, thanks mate.. great to see so many people care!

lol j/k

All I can say is "WOW".....and there was a reason why I've gave up Chemistry in High School....

So can I just use Liquid Soap and Water and rinse?

The pad that apply the "polish" & "wax" are wet and dirty, I did wash that.....

But how about the pad that I use to buff it off? it is only dusty with "wax dust" after use...Should I wash that too?

??? I don't think you're supposed to use a pad to buff it off man. You use a terrycloth towel or cotten towel folded into quarters. You 'buff' off, then when it appears 'patchy' and mottled you turn it over to the clean side for a final wipe over. Let us ask the Emperor again.

Comments Sir Chompie?

Yeah you are right Rob, use a cloth (preferably microfibre) to buff off your wax. As Motorman said, microfibre will pick up your wax and absorb it much easier than a cotton towel.

I wash everything after use, because your buffing towel will be full of dried wax and will not be able to absorb as much wax the next time you use it. You should be able to safely use dishwashing liquid in your washing machine, I have done it many times.

Dude it's wax lol. Tap it??? lmfao hahaha if you don't wash it it'll just mottle up later on, mannnnn big brands giving the wrong info. You HAVE to wash it. Soapy water I think is best, but I'm just popping my two pads in with my terry cloth towels with a little washing power in the washing machine. They're fine man. No problems. This might be bad though lol, so ask Chompies or Silva. I could be an idiot and not know it lol

Yeah, it's good to wash your tools after each use. If you don't wash them then they will collect a tonne of junk and just imagine what that will do to your paint!

What I do is wash all my products (microfibre separately) with dishwashing detergent (high alkaline) in warm water, then rinse with a vinegar/water mixture to soften and disolve any detergent/minerals still in the water.

I just saw this on ebay, wonder if this the same thing?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Bosh-Random-Orbital...1QQcmdZViewItem

Hmmm...sorry, i don't know how to make this a link?

Vincent, I have sent you another PM. That is the wrong one, the one for car polishing is PEX400AE. Have a look at the Bosch website: http://auptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-au/Cat...hw&ccat_id=9638

I can't find any Random Orbital Polisher on ebay, but only Random Orbital Sanders...it's Bosch as well...are they the same?

Oh...wool pads on Orbital Buffer is for heavy cut only? i thought it's for fine polish....what should I get for polish then?

Sorry guys, I am new to this, I've been using hands all these years...and I'm tired now..haha

Hey mate, that is the same one, they are actually Random Orbital Sanders, but you attach foam pads instead of sanding pads for polishing cars. If you are really serious about getting into machine buffing, I would suggest to you to buy it from this website: www.finalinspection.com.au and while your there, order a few polishes and pads. It does cost fair a bit to start up machine polishing, but once you have everything you should be set for a long time. I have sent you a PM with what you will need.

I'M SWIRL SWIRL SWIRLING MY PAINTY WAINTY FINISHHHHHHHH

I just don't trust the things. Jase has wisdom beyond his years though, so he's smart enough to use one.

Rob dumb. Rob use pad.

Rob: If you want to get a machine buffer that is almost idiot-proof, buy a Random Orbital Polisher like this one:

Bosch PEX400AE Random Orbital Polisher

From www.finalinspection.com.au

These are not as dangerous as a rotary buffer because the head moves in an eccentric motion and doesn't generate as much heat between the pad and paint. So it's almost impossible to burn your paint. I have the Festool RO from that website and I absolutely love it.

So we can't use the Wool pads with the Orbital Buffer?......or "steel wool pad"...are you sure?

You can use wool pads, but not steel wool.. unless you want to scratch your paint off, haha. Wool pads on an orbital buffer are used for heavy cutting.

Swirl remover cuts the clear coat back a bit and gets rid of swirl marks in the finish. Mine has swirl marks in it because the dealer decidid to use an orbital buffer with a friggin steel wool pad or something. Idiots.

So I have to invest in some Scratch X, but there is a brand you can get from the states which is cheaper and just as effective called "Poorboys". A lot of 'true' detailers use that. Poorboys is also used by Chompies, Melbournes Champion Car Detailer :D

hahaha, thanks for the constant plugs buddy!

Like Rob has said Poorboys make a good swirl remover that works well by hand but like most swirl removers it is made to be used via machine, so you will have to give it some elbow grease. The product is called SSR2.5 and you can buy it from www.waxit.com.au Only available online unfortunately as it is imported from the USA.

I can't really think of any good swirl removers that you can purchase at retail stores other than Scratch-X, but I find that it is a bit too expensive for what you get.

Chompies!!! I know you can see me stop ignoring me!!! lol

Put the SP23 up man!!!

haha, ok.. I just don't want to make you guys jealous :P

Please do not leave nail polish remover on your paint over night. Nail polish remover contains solvents which will eat your paint away.

What are you trying to accomplish neK? There may be better solutions.

thanx chomps =D ur a champ... i guess im throwing that meguires wax in the bin and going to get some poorboys stuff

No worries mate. I'd say use what you have.. no point spendin up unless you really need to. I find that Meg's #26 Yellow paste is a fairly decent carnauba wax, much better than most of the stuff you find at K-Mart, etc. Give it another shot but if you're really unsatisfied, Poorboys Natty's (Blue or original) Wax would be my next recommendation.

EDIT: Here's a graphite Honda Accord that I detailed last week with Natty's Blue on top:

Sun was down, so I couldn't get any outdoor full sun shots, but you get what I mean.

claybar the whole car from top to bottom practically used up all my quick detail spray and so i ended up using shampoo and water solution for the rest.

so i read the package and it says apply wax with pad and let it settle for a few minutes, wipe off with damp cloth then buff with a dry cloth...

How do i make this buffing process less tedious? can any1 give me some tips?

Which wax are you using? By Yellow, I take it as Meguiar's #26 Yellow Paste? If it is, you need to let it dry for longer than a few minutes, try 30 mins. This is because it's not a pure carnauba wax, it contains synthetic polymers as well. It needs to dry fully to ensure bonding.

Here's a tip when claying: dilute your QD with water 1:1

Far out, looks too close to the ground.. be careful when it rains. If you're going to drive with that, I would put some sort of mesh at the end, otherwise bugs and stuff will get sucked in and your filter will get clogged fast.

Like others have suggested, remove the stock resonator/piping and attach this blue pipe to the air box. Drop the blue pipe somewhere inside your bumper.

Dam Sportivos... j/k

I want one!! :P

Well done to you guys, pulled some pretty quick times.

What's with the pics? Have they been photoshoped to look artistic or what?

anyone know where i can buy a claybar? or clay as it is commonly known?

i cant find it at supercheap, probably not sure if it will show up at autobarn either.

Aparently some dude in melb from another forum does wonders with this clay stuff for your clearcoat

That's weird mate, all the Autobarns/SCA's sell the Meguiar's Claybar/QD pack in my area (Knox). I know that Autobarn Chadstone and City stock 'em as well, so it might be worth giving them a shot. The pack is around $30 and you get a small 50g (I think) claybar with a bottle of Quick Detailer. It's a good starter pack to.. umm, start with.

Alternatively, I'd highly recommend a Clay Magic BLUE claybar from www.finalinspection.com.au . It's around $50 for the claybar by itself but it is 200g (much bigger) and works a lot better than the Meguiar's one. Email damian@finalinspection.com.au and see if you can work out a Claybar/QD pack of sorts... this route is more expensive than Meguiar's, but it'll last a whole lot longer and work a lot better.

Hope this helps. :)

Well I just ordered some Klasse product for my car, was hoping it would arrive this week, but did not come :( Will let you know how it goes. Anyone else try Klasse before ? (Some German product that my friend recommended) I know they use it in Singapore on the Subaru Rally cars ;P

The Klasse twins (All-In-One and Sealant Glaze) are one of the best combos around. AIO, is one of the best paint prep products around. When you do get your stuff, try layering SG multiple times to improve its durability and look (3-4 layers should suffice), then top it off with a good carnauba wax to give it some wetness and you're set.

AIO is so versatile, you can also use it on your black plastics.

With a name like chompies you must be south african!

Haha, is Chompies an African word? What does it mean?

no i dont think he's south african =D more asian oriented B)

Correct :D

Much rather stick with Bowdens thanks anyway. Meguiars ahs gone down hill in the last couple of years as the Australian wing of Meguiars is making their own products here and not using the US ones to cut costs and make more money. But unfortunately the quality of the products is slipping badly too.

I have heard of Bowdens Own.. which of their products would you recommend? They don't have a big line of products.

Most of my products are Poorboys. They are relatively cheap and works really well. Meguires is average at best compared to Poorboys products.

Poorboys eh? Not a very inspiring product name that sounds like it has any sort of quality about it.

Poorboys is an American company and they make fantastic products at low prices. They're anytime better than Meguiar's. The Poorboys name reflects their goal, which is to provide really good products for little money and you can see that in packaging. I think Natty's Blue carnauba wax is probably their best product and it is well renowned for its 'wet-look' appearance.

Sounds like it's last season's episodes :( Better than nothing I guess. Thanks for the heads up.

Thanks BigBum!!!~ :D

For the record, that run with Lucio got me 27secs because I launched and Lucio forgot to take off, so i reversed back to the starting line and waited for him. :P :P

And thanks for getting my Supra kill!! YAY! Even though he nearly killed me literally..

Congratulations E-Gene! All the best for the journey ahead!

Those pictures look so surreal.. it's great!

Even if you can't see it, it's best to get it fixed straight away if you only have a limited warranty. As time goes on, a small bubble becomes a big bubble. This is where lifetime warranty comes in handy.

Not normal. If you've got lifetime warranty on your tints just let your service dept (or tinter, depending on where you had it done) know about it and they should sort it out.

Zaino makes the best sealant in the world and P21s/Pinacle Souveran are the best waxes IMO.

But I use Autoglym, because I don't have the cash.

Hang on, how to open the door from inside?

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Heh, when you're inside, why would you want to come out? :P