codebeard

Yes, that's pretty much the same as mine (mine is 1994 AE102). I am not sure what could be wrong. The only thing I can think is that maybe the wires are a little different between our two models? If you are careful, you should be able to confirm the wiring is correct by briefly making a connection between the common wire and the lock/unlock activation wires. Carefully and briefly putting a short piece of wire between these should lock/unlock the car as appropriate. However, I can't be responsible if something goes wrong from this. The only safe way to test it is to do what I described in one of my earlier posts; I disconnected the plug which carried the wires from the door, then used my multimeter to check the resistances between the different wires coming from the door; when the key is turned, the resistance should be become 0 between the lock wire (or unlock wire as appropriate) and the common wire.

Okay, I looked up my instructions for the kit again (see attached). They say you should press the learning switch, then in the next 10 seconds you need to press a button on both remotes; when you do this, a light should flash on the receiver circuit board.

Hmm. Do the little blue lights on the remotes come on when you press them? I'm assuming you have the same kit as me in which case there are blue lights. Do you have a multimeter to check that you have +12V across the correct wires for power to the receiver? If it's working, you should be able to hear the relay clicking on and off when the remote is pressed. If none of this works, I have no idea what to suggest next, sorry :(.

Hey Behnam, it's been a while since I did this, but from memory there is a little switch inside the receiver. You might have to open it up carefully with a screwdriver to find it. Once it's connected to the car's power, you press the switch and then press one of the buttons on the remote. You then repeat the process for the second remote.

Thanks for all your help. In the end despite many hours of trying to find wiring diagrams and trace/test wires, I wasn't able to find the right wire for parking lights or indicators. But I decided that since my locks are easily visible through the car windows, I could live without having that extra visual feedback. I installed it without that and it's working perfectly. In case anyone else wants to do something similar, here are my instructions: 1. Buy the remote central locking kit. I bought this one ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261535476778 ) for $14.90, which is a BIGHAWKS brand and took a few weeks to arrive (though the eBay description does not mention the brand). If you buy a different one the wiring may not match what I have below. 2. I pulled out the orange, grey, green and pink wires from the remote locking kit plug since they were not necessary. I also could have removed the purple wires (for the lights) but in my case I wasn't sure if I might end up wanting them so I just taped up the ends and bound them neatly with a cable tie. I taped together the blue, yellow/black and black wires in a few places because they are all spliced to the same place. 3. Open up the kick panel on either the drivers or passenger side. The same wires are available on both. I installed it on the drivers side in case I ever found the right wire for parking lights since that'd be the place to look for them. On the drivers side it helps to take off the panel above too (where the ignition is etc.) 4. Find where a bunch of white/black wires are bolted to the car body. These are the ground wires and you need to choose one of them to which you'll splice the blue, yellow/black and black wires. The remote central locking controller should not be connected while you are splicing wires. See picture below: 5. Trace the bundle of wires coming from the door. This will connect to a plug on the kick panel - from it find the green/white and blue/black wires. In my case I was able to get access to the matching wires coming into the plug socket from behind. You need to splice the brown wire from the kit to the blue/black wire, and the yellow wire from the kit to the green/white wire. See below: 6. Find the very thick white wire(s) going into the middle of the kick panel wiring. This is the constant 12V to which you should splice the red wire from the kit. I didn't take quite as much insulation off this one and was careful not to ground myself or my tools to anything else in the car while working on this wire because the battery was still connected. 7. Next I connected the remote central locking controller, opened it to press the microswitch and activate the two remotes, and made sure it was all working. It worked first time, so I cable tied the controller out of the way. 8. I finished soldering my splices (since taking the photos above I made sure the solder was better applied to the copper wires on which the kit was spliced), and then I applied some "liquid electrical tape" to the splices to ensure they are well sealed. 9. Restore the kick panel cover and enjoy your remote central locking! I'm sure I haven't done everything the same as an auto electrician might have, but I am happy with it.

Found the ground wire, thanks. There was one on the passenger side too but no longer earthed to the car body (the bolt is missing) - should I be worried about that? It's probably been like that for ages and haven't had any problems. For the indicators, I found what I think is the relay but it's really high up and the wires are almost totally inaccessible. I'm thinking maybe the parking lights are going to be easier after all, since they are just on/off and don't need a timer/relay. I found the plug with the wires from the rear lights (brakes, indicators, parking lights, although interestingly not reverse lights) - it is the one labeled "ELEC TEST OK" in the bottom of my last picture, but probing with my multimeter didn't find anything useful (I found one wire which switched from - to + when the parking lights turn on but I was hoping for something that would go from disconnected to +).

I don't know if there's something weird about my car, but none of the car body seems to be grounded. The engine is grounded, but I can't measure any voltage between the positive terminal and the car body or any bolts connected to it. The two wires that come from the locking kit for the lights both have some kind of inline capacitor in them so I think that must regulate the flash timing rather than using the hazard light control which I assume has its own relay. (That is to say, I think they are intended to be connected directly to the light circuit rather than the hazard.) Here's a picture someone else posted of the same kit, you can see the purple wires: http://www.kiasoulforums.com/attachments/how-diy/42330d1402611386-2014-base-soul-keyless-entry-install-2-wires-modified-.jpg Hiro, does your AE102 service manual have any diagrams for these kick panels?

Okay, so here's what I still need to work out: 1. Where can I find a ground wire? (i.e. battery negative) 2. Where can I find a wire to control the parking lights for flashing when locking/unlocking with the remote? The instructions here just say "parking lights" but I assume they mean left and right indicators. Once I've got that sorted I can splice all the necessary wires (and I'll post my instructions here for anyone else who wants to do a similar modification to their AE102). If there's no wires for lights in the passenger kick panel, the drivers kick panel has a bunch more (see picture below). Unlike the passenger side, the wires from the drivers door have a smaller, white socket, but the wiring seems the same so would still be possible to use them.

Thanks for the advice! Over the past year the driver's lock had been getting more difficult to use so I had tried graphite, WD40 and silicone spray at different times, all of which seemed to temporarily alleviate the problem (but as you say, the graphite may have done more harm than good). Yes, the auto locksmith I called said it would be about $90 or so to rekey the lock if I removed it and took it in to him. If I needed another key cut to code that would be another $60 or something. I looked up a video on YouTube on how to remove the lock - it seemed pretty involved and I don't have a door trim remover tool. For now I am hoping to get away with just using the remote system, since that only cost $15.

Thanks. I did some more testing today with a multimeter because I realised that all the wires going to the door must be either for the power locks, lock/unlock triggers and speaker - there's no other electronics in there. The blue socket pictured in my second photo is for the front passenger door. By unplugging it I could safely measure resistances between different contacts while the key was in the unlock position, lock position, and neutral (no key) position. Here's what I found, from top to bottom, left to right: green/white - unlock trigger wire blue/black - lock trigger wire heavy guage blue - power lock heavy guage red - power lock white/black - common (ground?) wire for lock/unlock trigger light green - speaker (?) blue - speaker (?) I confirmed that shorting the pins for the lock/unlock trigger wires and the common wire did indeed lock and unlock the car, which is the key finding here. So the website which said green/white and blue/black was correct and the other website was not. Not that I'll need it, but I also confirmed that the car puts a voltage across the two heavy guage wires when the power locks are activated. To unlock, the polarity is reversed. By elimination, the final wire pair must be for the speaker. I'm not sure if my car has an immobiliser (there is no recepticle for keys/transponders in the glove box), but to my knowledge it's sufficient to just short the lock/unlock trigger wires, which makes the car think the key was turned in the lock. The remote lock sytem I got on eBay is designed to connect to the trigger wires and emulate the key turn.

Hey guys, My Corolla (1994 AE102 7A-FE) is getting on in years but the engine still runs great and I don't want to part with it. The problem is that my drivers door lock isn't working so I have to unlock the passenger side to trigger the central locking then walk around to the drivers door every time I want to open it. I called up an auto locksmith and the price just to have the lock inspected was extreme (just to avoid some extra walking), so I thought about installing a remote locking system instead. To my knowledge the car did not come with remote central locking. I got a system with a couple of remotes on eBay, but now the difficulty is that I don't know 100% to which wires I need to connect it. After extensive searching on the internet, I found a couple of different sites which suggested that the power door lock / unlock wires can be found in the passenger kick panel. This seems reasonable since turning the key on either front door will activate the central locking, so the control wires must get into the door somehow. Unfortunately some of the information I found was conflicting. One site said the power door lock wire was blue/black, the other said blue/white. Similarly, for the power door unlock, one site said blue/red, another said green/white and another said blue/yellow. I found this site because some helpful users here had shared wiring diagrams for the AE102, and was hoping someone could help me with this. I've taken a couple of photos of the passenger kick panel wires. Can anyone confirm what the different sockets are for and if I'm looking in the right place? The blue socket at the bottom seems to match some of the wire colours mentioned (green, blue/black, green/white) but I don't want to short anything which isn't supposed to be shorted. The white socket below the large AC fuse also matches some wire colours (blue/black and blue/red). According to my owner manual the two fuses here are for the AC but no other information about what these sockets are. Also, I was able to find what I think is a 12V constant wire using my multimeter, but don't know which of these if any are ground. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ^_^