I started the car today and this time I had to turn everything on to reproduce the problem.
I'm talking high beam, am fm radio, UHF radio, rear window demister, aircon, fan.
Perhaps the temperature effects things as it was harder to reproduce at around 20c today.
While all this stuff was turned on I watched the fuel shut off lever cycle back and forward all on its own.
As soon as the engine misses the leaver snaps back to the run position before the engine has a chance to stall.
The thing that moves this leaver is called the Engine Control Unit in the manual but most of the online posts I have seen call it an EDIC.
I couldn't find much online about these symptoms except one post that said it was caused by a problem with the earth strap.
I could see one strap from the alternator to the engine block and another from the negative battery terminal to the body then the same cable goes on to the engine block.
They both seemed clean(ish) and tight. I removed the negative terminal and both connections to the body an the block and cleaned everything with wire brush and sandpaper. I also gave the crimped connections a bash with a hammer to make sure they were still tight.
Put it all back together again and I couldn't reproduce the problem. It may be a different story on a cold dark morning.
So at least for now I'll call it fixed. If it does it again I do the altenator earth next.
I hope this helps someone else and I'm glad I tried this fix before taking it to an Auto Electrician as I'm sure they would have started replacing things before cleaning the earth strap. I have herd that EDIC thing is hugely expensive if you go for a new one.
David
here's an update on the fix.
i had the same problem with my HJ60 . edic switch flicking the injector pump to stop and then resetting.... rinse and repeat....etc whenever i engaged the headlight circuit.
followed the above instructions but this did not help. checked voltage of battery and then alternator at idle and at 2000 rpm, tightened belts, isolated different systems to check if they were at fault, etc, eliminated all these without finding source of the problem.
then.....finally found the source of the problem to be the Voltage Regulator.
you can test this by disconnecting the voltage regulator and running the vehicle on the batteries' power alone, then reproducing the situation that causes the edic malfunction. with the voltage regulator disconnected everything ran fine, no edic malfunction, only there was no charge from the alternator(as you would expect).
new voltage regulator cost $90 from ashdown-ingram.
i gave mine some "shock therapy" to get me going again, til i can pick up new regulator. this seemed to clear the fault... at least temporarily.
basicly just pulled the VR plug out while it was still live, then put it back together with the engine switched off. started engine and "magic"... off we go again.
this may not be recommended, clearly it would be better to replace it outright if you identify it as the problem, but still.... i'm back on the road till i can pick one up tomorrow. 8)
60 series 2H Diesel Never Missed a Beat Until Now
in Landcruiser Club
Posted
here's an update on the fix.
i had the same problem with my HJ60 . edic switch flicking the injector pump to stop and then resetting.... rinse and repeat....etc whenever i engaged the headlight circuit.
followed the above instructions but this did not help. checked voltage of battery and then alternator at idle and at 2000 rpm, tightened belts, isolated different systems to check if they were at fault, etc, eliminated all these without finding source of the problem.
then.....finally found the source of the problem to be the Voltage Regulator.
you can test this by disconnecting the voltage regulator and running the vehicle on the batteries' power alone, then reproducing the situation that causes the edic malfunction. with the voltage regulator disconnected everything ran fine, no edic malfunction, only there was no charge from the alternator(as you would expect).
new voltage regulator cost $90 from ashdown-ingram.
i gave mine some "shock therapy" to get me going again, til i can pick up new regulator. this seemed to clear the fault... at least temporarily.
basicly just pulled the VR plug out while it was still live, then put it back together with the engine switched off. started engine and "magic"... off we go again.
this may not be recommended, clearly it would be better to replace it outright if you identify it as the problem, but still.... i'm back on the road till i can pick one up tomorrow. 8)