virginia63

I will check it out and see if I can wrap my head around it lol. Cheers.

Sorry I replied to you above but forgot to quote your post. Cheers.

Remove this clip, right. Anyhow I haven’t had to do it but thanks for the tip The stalling issue turned out to be nothing to do with pumps or filters but an issue in the idle air control valve. I just manage it by revving lightly in the driveway for a few minutes until it catches on; a bit like warming up the old cars with chokes. I’ll have to see to it sooner or later. It doesn’t happen all that often.

well it turned out to not be the fuel filter after all but yes, that was my worry when all this started to unfold that how on earth would i even know what he did or didn't do. once you come up against someone dishonest and unscrupulous like that it can leave you completely at their mercy. i'm really sad to have had that encounter and i'm angry that there are people out there who would intentionally hurt others for their own gain. it's unsportsmanlike and very troublesome to an idealistic person like me. anyway, moving on ... it was the igniter circuit, he ran the car on the computer diagnosis thing after trying out the obvious mechanical avenues to no avail. i have a few pics he gave me & will upload them when i work this out with t/meyer i had that available in my initial posts but i only have the yellow box there now, with 'insert existing' and 'insert from url' options. the 'click to choose files' words with the slide-pin icon isn't there anymore. edit: i'd take a screenshot to show you but .... he he

the new mechanic spent several hours on it today looking for the problem and in the end he found faulty wiring under the rocker cover. wiring that had been roughly taped together at some point. the rogue mechanic tried to take that cover off to do the gaskets but couldn't get one of the bolts undone so he told me he just flipped the top over or around or something. i'm told the taped wiring in there looks like it's been there a while so i'm guessing mr rogue has disturbed what was originally a botchy job. the new mechanic opened it all up, tidied the wiring, and soldered it all together. 3 hours labour including time spent trying to locate the problem. he says the car is running well now. i hope this is the end of this saga. (i must've used up all my allowable pics in this thread because that option you mention has vanished.)

so the part in the screenshot above named 'fuel pump filter' seems to attach to the pump itself. only reason i know the pump is in the boot is cause the allianz technician lifted the back seat and showed me the access point. i didn't ask him about the fuel filter, is that a different filter to this fuel 'pump' filter? edit- how are you loading your pics? are you using an external hosting site?

Just called some retailers for a price on that mount from Mackay and these are the quotes I got [part is located at Moorabbin Vic, & I'm in Vic]: Supercheap $132 to pick up at my local store (they don't charge freight) Repco $189 including freight (from NSW apparently) Burson $153.95 +freight to my local store @ZZT86 car looks great. were there many of those made? always in high demand good originals like that. edit: that youtube link is for the american camry LE. I'm not sure how it is for standard camrys here but in my model it is in fact in the tank but also has an access point under my back seat. the allianz guy lifted the seat for me last night and showed me. sorry i forgot about that. as i said i've become brain dead what with all these break downs and continued expenses

According to the receipt he gave me he changed the fuel filter. uAlso, I just got a message from the new mechanic; my car arrived there just before and he said it was running again this morning at the tow yard. The roadside assist guy told me yesterday (and I think it was said in an earlier post^) that fuel pumps have a habit of dying and resurrecting before stopping completely? Then again, apparently there are another couple of things that can cause this. I just hope we get to the bottom of it. I haven't felt confident getting in it ever since I bought him it home from Mr rogue. [edit- strikethrough]

No you're both right, I think I'm just a bit brain dead as it's the oil filter I'm thinking of it. I should know what an oil filter is

@ZZT86 but thank you! I appreciate the compliment. It comes from when I was a small girl and used to crawl under my dad's car with him and pass him his tools. I thought about becoming a mechanic's apprentice as a teenager but my mum had other ideas, unfortunately... i'd be able to fix my own cars now and wouldn't have these dramas with cowboys.

i do regret choosing him and i should've known better. unfortunately i didn't do all my regular checks and balances, one of those times that i took a gamble and lost. lol. i bet there's more around than you realise as we just don't know anything about the people we walk past every day. i had another spot of bother with my car today grr. engine failed at the lights, called roadside assist and they tell me it's the fuel pump. car miraculously decides to start up again, so i try driving it home only to break down again a mile up the road ha ha. had to get a tow and this new mechanic that's been helping me is checking it out tomorrow. he thinks it could be a number of things, maybe even the fuel filter. and here's where the story takes on an interesting twist. Ol mate rogue mechanic says he had to take out the fuel filter to do the timing belt. then he tells me he decided to put a new one in free of charge. So I ask him: 'why? the current filter was only changed 4 months ago at the last service?' [he says he just thought he'd put a new one in while he had the old one out cause he says the old one was looking a little dirty.] that seemed suss to me, why would he do that? surely the old one was okay. then tonight i'm thinking, had he damaged that too during the timing belt fiasco?

so got another call back from rob at mackay's and after working on this for several hours and calling toyota for oem #s etc he has managed to update their database for the Camry V6 Touring model parts. Turns out they have the parts, they make them I think but the website/list wasn't updated [not very good right?]. Anyhow this is the link for the engine parts and you'll see that he has pics and listing for the various auto/manual components. they don't sell to public but if i call repco or burson spares etc and quote the mackay part # as per this page then that's what i should get. he says I should pay under $100, around the 80-90 he would expect but it depends what the parts store wants to charge me. so there we have it, mystery solved. solid mounts for touring cars and different styles for auto/manual. why mine had a hydro in it i don't know but he says sometimes the solid mounts have a certain amount of fluid in them. he also said their mounts for the touring car has the soft rubber cup underneath just like mine did. note: he's yet to discover the correct part for the rear manual engine mount but they have the one for auto listed. http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/content/online-catalogue-search/

it's up to you if you want to ask your friends. i think adding the extra info to this thread is helpful in terms of future reference for anyone facing a similar situation. the information out there is not immediately forthcoming, and can even be misleading. It takes concerted effort to get to the bottom of it, and we're not even there yet. When I spoke with toyota they too weren't sure of the type of mount standard to my car. they seemed on the right track though, thinking it was a solid mount and that the auto/manual may differ in the securing brackets, which btw, these brackets did fit. i'm increasingly thinking the auto/manual difference might be in the 'thick' as opposed to 'narrow' tubes of the mount. i haven't seen the cradle under the mount in an auto car, so i can't say.

@ZZT86 the azura looks just like mine but better. does yours have that dual tone paint job? not sure if i'm seeing right but the interior looks leather in one of those pics? that's what let's mine down, grandpa car on the inside. must be in good nik with such low mileage, have you had it since new? the guy at mackay consolidated that i spoke with yesterday says he has solid mounts for an auto T/series like ours and they have the soft rubber cup underneath. he tells me the rubber cup doesn't necessarily denote lubricant filled, although he says even the solid ones can sometimes have a minimal amount of fluid in them. i don't know what to think anymore to be honest. the mount i have in it now definitely pulls the car down more to the road and i find it actually feels better. but i too found it to be 'floaty' prior to all this, however, i don't know if that was down to a worn mount or just the fact that it was a hydro. my old mount is definitely a hydro as i watched rather a lot of oil pour out from it, over the mechanic's bench, and even now the insides of the plastic bag that its in is seeped in it. as you say i'm tempted to just call it a day but my concern is the mount height and the engine lean. i've been told it's no drama for now but ideally it ought to have the correct mount and we're trying to find out the specific differences between auto and manual front mounts in that series. the guy at Mackay is keen to find out even for his own benefit as it's obviously quite a grey area and he may come up with this query again in the future.

well let's see if he comes up with one here in oz. he also agrees that picture error is notoriously common worldwide. i can't really afford to go around changing my mounts time and again, but if i want to keep this car running for the next xxx years it might pay to have the correct mount installed at some point. i'm still thinking the one i have in there now may be the wrong height, but as i said i'm getting all the mounts checked at my next service. the lesson i've learned here is a hard one because unless you have a regular mechanic all of them are a risk. i think where i went wrong was to let price influence me, that being said dearer isn't always better.

lol yeah and i had to pay. as for my radiator $198 cause the top plastic plate had a crack in it where one of the screws go in. even though it's old and probably due to crack i wonder had it been another mechanic if i may hove gotten a few more months out of it before it went. fixed now. got a call today from a bloke at mackay consolidated in melbourne who i'd contacted last week. he echoes what's said here in terms of the touring probably originating with a solid mount. however he thinks the auto and manual mounts may have size differences in the base, accounting for the recess in my cradle that doesn't rightly fit the mount i put in there now. he also tells me that of all the 50k registered v6 touring camrys in australia, 5% of them (that's 1000 only) are manual. he's going to try and source original part numbers for all my engine mounts in case i run into trouble in the future. very helpful man, i didn't even ask him to do that :)

Thinking about it he said he didn't remove the bolt entirely but only unscrewed it half an inch to lever the engine up. he may not have had the motor entirely lined up straight when he went to do it up again after the job was finished, thereby threading the bolt and it seizing. he would have had to cut the top of the bolt away to get the mount out after that. or, he unscrewed the top bolt the way he said, forgot to undo the bottom bracket nuts on the mount, levered the motor up and snapped the top off the centre bolt off as the motor pulled back out of place due to being loosened from the mount. the fact that it's an old bolt as trentmeyer23 says may just have caused it to give way easier.

so sorry about the long post. it's difficult to explain but i have gotten a few answers nonetheless. i'll get all the mounts checked at my next service. the plate for my original mount that we have again used has a locating pin in the right spot so it went into the recess on the underside of the top mounting bracket properly. however we had to take the pin out of the new solid mount because that one got in the way. i think i said that in an earlier post that you may have missed because it has been a complicated topic. thanks.

i went to that rock auto page and all the pics for the front mounts for 'auto transmission' look exactly like the hydro mount we just took out of my car. lol. smaller at the bottom and with the exact same top plate and locator pin on the external edge. then the only listing with a pic for a 'standard transmission' (manual?) front mount looks like the solid mount i have in there now and with the locator pin by the bolt hole that doesn't fit anywhere in my manual car. complete contradiction, i'm confused.

i don't know how to upload them, do i need to use an image host site? i didn't do that before. thanks. edit: thanks for the link to the bolt too, i'm gonna need that if i get another mount. tomorrow i'll take a pic of the engine and how it leans. i'm not sure if that matters. i mean if this mount goes ok i can just keep it but i'm just not sure how close it is to the metal in the cradle and that's the only thing that worries me. if i can find out that the solid mounts for this series are actually smaller at the bottom then i may have something to think about, if instead they're all the same then the cradle recess is just meant to be that way and i should try to not worry about it. i know the hydro one is smaller at the bottom and it fits better. this can be seen in the pics of them side by side.

ok so i can safely assume the OEM is correct. when you got the wrong parts, how does it work with returns in terms of what portion of all shipping do they cover for sending the wrong part? Hey, wow you can imagine my surprise when i first read you said the correct mount should be solid. oh the irony of it all. i read those links you put up, i get that the interpretation of the 'touring' series was for an actual sturdier ride. i never gave it much thought in terms of it being a sporty car even though it does have a spoiler and heavy rims. the interior is indeed so bland, boring even. i assumed touring meant comfort over long distances. in either event none of those links actually specify the type of mount (unless i missed reading that). i looked back over all the mechanic receipts i got with the car from the previous owner who bought it new and nothing was ever done to or with the mounts, so the one that came out last week is the original. it turns out i've had the car for 5 full years, not 4. i bought it with 99k km on the clock, and it now has 171k. obviously it was originally sold off the showroom with a hydraulic mount. this second mechanic i went to the other day to check the noise coming from the bushes told me they sometimes put any old part they have lying around in them during assembly (as you say, maybe there was an availability shortage). the question i have is; if it indeed meant to have a solid mount, then: 1) could the (hydro or solid) mounts for this model be different between auto & manual? 2) could the (hydro or solid) mounts for this series be different to the non touring-car mounts? The reason I ask is because the cradle in the base is recessed and the solid mount I bought [as for MCV20 auto/manual] fits way closer to the edge than the hydro mount it had in there before. if the touring-specific 'solid' mounts are smaller then they would fit better inside that recess. when i searched for mounts i got the same results if I searched for MCV20R or MCV20R T/series (or Touring model). All the Camry sedans made between 98-02 have the MCV20R identifier whether touring or not. Most of the listings did not specify Touring in their description even when i had that in my search criteria, only MCV20. The only place that gave me a Touring model option was Mackay Consolidated, and the mount that came up for that was described as for auto and was a solid variety. No one except for ebay had any manual-specific mount results, and I have no confidence in listing accuracy from ebay sites. as i said earlier it's actually handling quite well with this new mount, i don't mind the firmer feel. but this second mechanic i went to pointed out that the motor leans a little to the left so we're not sure if the mount height is correct. the mount specialist from sydney that said we could modify the mount and put it in also told me to take off the rubber glove that came with the solid mount and use the smaller rubber cap off the hydraulic mount because it has a larger top plate around the bolt hole. he also said it probably needs the extra height (several mm) that we get by using the cap with the top metal plate on it. it's hard to know because the hydro mount had collapsed after it was damaged and was quite lower than the new solid so we're not sure how high it was meant to be originally. i actually have pics of the two side by side so i'll upload them in a separate post.

this. edit- you know, when the part is [as you say] disturbed to access something else and that causes it to give, you don't mind paying for it.

@CM641 i feel for you mate, $1000 is an expensive outlay that you weren't ready for. i hope mine can be repaired and doesn't cost that much. i'd just like to hear for once that a mechanic blows a customer's part and owns up to it. really they should be covering the cost don't you think? i thought my rogue mechanic ought to have owned up for threading the bolt and bursting the insides of my engine mount. and if he did know about damaging my radiator, he said nothing to me and let me drive away knowing i'd probably overheat at the side of the road. i thought about going to Toyota from now on but i've had another local guy (recommended this time), been to see him and he's nothing like the first guy. he's polite and straightforward, easy to understand. i'm new in my area and still finding my way around in terms of services. went to the first guy, the rogue, via a leaflet drop in my letterbox. he's new to the area too so i thought i'd give him a hand up with my business. that's the gratitude i get.

totally. sorry i forgot i was on a public forum for a sec. also i was just venting, not aiming at anyone here. as you say one can't see what goes on when they're not there and there is so much trust involved. that was the hardest part here, having that trust so violated.

who wants to stand there and watch their mechanic work anyway. the *mechanic should've been reliable enough for me to leave the car and come back when ready. that's what i pay him for.