SkylineAurion

10 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hmm, I'm looking at your pump assembly and you say you have a 40 series Aurion right ? Cos that there looks like one from the 50 series which has a taller-skinnier filter section. The 40 series ones are shorter but fatter which is why I suggested the Z646. I'm baffled now because you say it was correct but the picture there looks a lot like a 50 series setup. I learned this after purchasing what I believed was the correct filter for my 50 but turned out that it was in fact for the 40 despite the stupid listing in Ebay saying it would fit. 

I see what you mean now regarding the O-Rings. Typically no lubrication is required if you're re using the existing ones but if they are new perhaps a little WD40 spray could help seat them in. You should be ok with what little motor oil you used. It will just wash away no harm done.

Here are some pics of the two filters side by side. The seller let me keep the 40 series one and when I purchased the "correct" 50 series one I did a photo shoot to compare the two.

The left one in the pic is for the 40 series. To the right is the 50.

 

 

 

 

The Blackened Filter Sock Before Cleaning.

 

I’m so confused now too. Cos initially I was going to buy the z708, like your one, because I read that it was the correct one. but for some reason you told me to get the z646 instead for some reason and I’m glad you did otherwise I would be stuck with the z708 that doesn’t fit, not to mention all the effort of pulling apart and putting it all back together and realising it’s the wrong part. And yes it’s a 2008 xv40. Here is the pic of exact filter I bought. Once again thanks for preventing all the unnecessary headaches lol

44 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

 

I was actually going to buy the filter like the one in your pic, but in the earlier replies you Told me to get the z646 instead and I did, it was the correct one. If I bought the one like yours then all that would’ve taken way more time then excepted, with the removal and installation. So thanks a lot for that

and when I was talking about lubricating the gaskets, I don’t mean just the big one that sits on top, I applied engine oil to the smaller o ring gaskets inside the fuel pump and filter assembly. Their was quite a few small ones. I only applied very little though. I’m concerned the engine oil will contaminate the fuel and cause problems within the assembly and to the engine. What do you think?

also if I knew about that sock I would’ve cleaned that too but I guess it’s too late now 

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Was the gasket not sealing correctly on the sender unit ? Still not sure why you'd smell petrol unless the gasket was compromised somehow.

That cabin filter looks nasty too. Plenty of microbial action going in there for sure.

Are you talking about the largest rubber o ring on top of the fuel pump/filter assembly? It seemed fine, not brittle or cracking. From what I remember it was sitting a tiny bit above the metal flooring . Is it meant to sit perfectly flush? Also it’s not a petrol smell. Petrol has a distinctive smell to it, it’s a smell like LPG, I cannot be more clearer than that.

I just had a look at the video that I followed to change the filter and it does seem the whole assembly sits just right above the metal flooring and not flush . Refer to the pic

Also one more thing, I was just reading the comments on the video and he mentioned he used gas to lubricate the o rings in the assembly, I thought it was engine oil so I used that instead. How f**ked am I?

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Struth 😱  Something I do more often these days is change out that filter right there more often. Easy to inspect/replace & better quality air that you & your loved ones breath 😉

Glad you sorted the fueling hesitation. Was it the first fuel filter change ? What was the condition of filter ?

i only changed the fuel filter, not the pump or anything else. And it’s the first time I changed it since I bought nearly two years ago. Don’t know the condition of the filter, I didn’t cut the fuel filter in half to inspect it

On 7/2/2021 at 11:17 PM, ZZT86 said:

@SkylineAurion  My Aurion takes 1 second to start, cold or hot. Have you plugged in an OBD scan guage to confirm all is healthy with electrics & fuel system ? Sounds like you may have a fouled O2 sensor when you start it cold, but you say it runs fine ?

Nah mate I got it sorted after changing the fuel filter. Starts up in a second now.

I changed the cabin filter too to get rid of that gas smell I was mentioning earlier but the smell still comes up time to time when I’m driving hard. Look how filthy the cabin filter was

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Unfortunately the fuel filter/pump assembly is one unit and is in the tank. You have to remove the base of the rear seat and unscrew the access hatch to get access to the assembly unit. There are plenty of DIY youtube videos you can learn from on how to remove-disassemble and re assemble.

Found these for you on Ebay.

This or this. 

Both will serve you well.

Aren’t these ones the correct ones(from what I’ve gathered). They look different to the ones you provided

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/274830542508

On 6/19/2021 at 8:04 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

Forgot to address this in my previous post. If you suspect the smell is coming from the A/C, then it's probably that. When you start to smell, I'd pull over and put your nose to the vent while it's blowing to see if it is. It's possible you cabin filter could be contaminated and the smell is coming from this. I upgraded my cabin filter to the charcoal activated type to help filter out engine fumes, smoke etc.

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/blog/normal-cabin-filter-carbon-activated-filter

Your Air con runs on R134a refrigerant and it is a sealed system. It doesn't put "gas" into the air stream. If it had developed a leak, it would've vented out already and all the connection points are in the engine bay, not inside the cabin. Besides, R134a doesn't have an odour which you describe anyway.

If you have contamination inside your return air box, behind the glovebox, then yes, it's possible it will purge dirty air into the cabin. You need to drop the glove box lid down and inspect the condition of the filter.

I find it hard to believe it could be coming from anywhere else besides what I described earlier and this.

 

Hey mate I ordered the cabin filter and I’m waiting for it to arrive. Do you know what part number my 2008 aurion atx 3.5L petrol 2gr-fe uses for the fuel filter?Is it z708? Like a in-tank fuel filter? If so why do they make it difficult and not put those standard cylinder type fuel filters with an entry and exit in the engine bay for ease of access and replacement? Cheers

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hi there M. welcome to the forum. Does your car have a documented service history ? How many kays are on it ? The hard start could be fuel system related and by not knowing the answer to any of the questions I've posed, it could possibly be the first place I'd look. Your fuel filter, which is in the tank, could be overdue for replacement and the fuel pick up sock could also be choked up with crud. I'd start there before going any further. It is also possible one or several fuel injectors could also have some minute blockages too. Modern engines rely heavily on the correct fuel delivery pressure and if the system isn't maintained well enough then you can have symptoms you described.

The fumes could be entering from the boot. Check the rear section of the exhaust as I am pretty confident all the frontal firewall grommets are solid. I feel it's coming from the back, being a low pressure area of the vehicle, you can have eddy currents that tend to hang around and if there is some kind of opening back there, It is possible the fumes could enter, fill the boot and then leak through the back seat.

Also, when was the last time the cabin filter was checked too ?

Yes the car has document service history. Previous owner was first owner and she would take it to Toyota to get it serviced regularly. It’s got 173000km. And yes, that was what I was thinking. It being the fuel filter. I’ll also put petrol injector cleaner in there to see if that sorts it out. The guy at the local auto store told me that there are two different variations of the fuel filter, one being cheap and the other being like $140. Is that true?

also about the fumes, why does it smell like lpg or natural gas, you know that smell when gas is leaking? Shouldn’t it smell like exhaust fumes/carbon monoxide? The only place in the car where gas is stored would be the air con system, wouldn’t it?

so which parts of the boot should I look at? The only place that comes to mind is the drainage holes on the floor of the boot and the little vents on the rear bumper reo area.

cheers

1 hour ago, Noodle Boy said:

Hi mate and welcome to the forum.

You mentioned LPG, therefore if the car is cranked over using LPG rather than petrol, depending on the whole LPG system you can expect a few seconds at least for the fuel system to prime and the engine to start. I remember the late model Falcons running on factory liquid LPG systems to require a few seconds for the fuel system to prime after the key is turned. It may very well be normal for the system installed in your car. On another note, how does the engine operate when warmed up? Does it hesitate at all? Try starting on petrol a few times and see if the issue persists.

As for the fumes being smelt within the cabin, I suspect the opening/ flaps on either side of the rear bumper which helps reduce the air pressure between the bumper bar and the carpet trim to have failed over time. The flaps are probably opening too much these days, allow more fumes than normally tolerated to enter the cabin. I would look into that before investigating other possible leakage points. One other thing I can think of is potentially the engine is running too rich on LPG, causing those fumes to be excessively created. Maybe a major service and tune up is required. 

All the best.

No no. I don’t have a LPG system in my car. It just takes straight petrol.

Hey guys, first time poster here and proud owner of a xv40 2008 aurion at-x

I bought the car about a year and a half ago and this issue has always persisted. Pretty much >80% of the time I start the car, especially from cold start, it would take 4-5-6 seconds to start the car when turning the key. When it starts, the car seems like it’s choking but a second later goes back to normal. On the off chance, the car will turn off while choking and one crank will start it up back again. I changed the battery cause it was weak anyway and that didn’t solve the issue. I also wait maybe 5-10 seconds with the key in ON position before starting the car and this sometimes helps start it faster.

The other issue I have is when I drive the car hard, as in I’m accelerating hard or very hard and revving it up as much as I can in automatic, the smell of gas or LPG overcomes the cabin and the boot space, it has that distinctive fart smell to it, and the smell is very strong that I have to drive with all the windows down for a few minutes to get rid of the smell. The car still drives fine and no performance loss whatsoever. The car is actually impressively fast.

Other than that, the car is perfect.

Can anyone help me resolve these two issues I’m having? Much appreciated cheers