runxz

Just finished rebuilding the 2zz due to a spun bearing. Get back the car excited to drive it again and i get no lift and the car limits at 7000 rpm. Eventually after driving for a while i get a CEL, so i go check it out and it comes up with P1349 VVT Malfunction Bank 1. I did some research and after checking everything we decided to get 2 new Oil Control Valves. We installed them yesterday and reset the ecu. We took the car for a spin and lift engaged but it dipped right before entry. So i did it again and the same thing. By the 3rd time it was back to no lift and limit at 7000 rpm. I though maybe the code was embedded and i needed to clear the CEL. So did that and still no lift. I really dont know what else it could be. The engine was assembled according to the workshop manual and pretty much everything is new including the lift bolts, vvt timing gear and sprocket. The rocker shafts were installed to spec as well. If anyone has an idea please im open to anything. I want to sell the car but who's going to buy a 2zz with no lift.

Thanks

Scott

Im running Tein SS coilovers (usa model). I like them alot. I opted for those because i live in the caribbean and if anything were to go wrong i could get them fixed in the USA which is closer to me. They also run higher spring rates than the JDM version. JDM is 3kg/mm ft & rear, USA is 6kg/mm ft & rear. They cost me about 1300 us or so.

http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=182_221_259&products_id=946

The guys in the USA also believe that Ksport are very good. I always have used Tein but im sure the other brands mentioned above are equally awsome. Heard great things about KW & BC.

I normally start at 36 psi all round and go from there.

Do you remember what part you had to change or modify? Was it that you jus had to use the screws from the existing mount or something?

Hey, i am looking to change my busted driver side engine mount. Will the mount from the matrix xrs/corolla xrs in the u.s. work? I cant get the original JDM mount locally and i checked the part numbers and they are different but the diagrams look identical. What do you think?

That happened to me when my MAF sensor was dirty. Start there and see if it fixes the problem. I clean it every service now that i know better.

Just be careful, that used to happen to me during start up and i ended with a spun rod bearing. I was running synthetic 5-30 which it seems was a bit to light the temperatures in the caribbean even thow thats what toyota say to run. im running 10-40 now after the rebuild to be safe.

Can you tell me what kind of bulbs are used for the park light and the main/beams. Would like to do an upgrade to higher output and change colour to something cooler. Can you tell me what a safe wattage to upgrade to?

Why does the sportivo weigh so much my runx weighs 1140kg? U sure thats correct? Even the fielder wagon is 1180kg and thats the heaviest.

Sorry to hijack the thread. Im running HAWK HPS and i find they are too hard for daily driving. Initial bite is not all that and they are quite spongy. If you do a 180km to zero stop they are awesome but who does that driving everyday. I was looking to back to stock pads but are the ebc yellow stuff or as you talked about the red stuff any good for daily driving?

Yip bled in order. Using dot 4. Dave, will check that out and see. Will check to see if the pedal is hard when car is off and let u know. How do you bleed the abs unit?

So i had my rotors resurfaced and put on new Hawk HPS pads. Bled the system and i find the pedal is soft and spongey so i broke in the pads and continued to see if it would get better but it didnt. So we bled the system twice and still it remains the same. Anyone ever experience this with their zze123, do you have any ideas that we could try to fix this?

Been searching everywhere for the captioned and cant seem to find anything that fits. It seems the TRD stuff has been discontinued, can anyone recommend alternatives that i could use for my runx and a supplier?

Front or rear?

Rear sway bar, front strut tower bar.

Been searching everywhere for the captioned and cant seem to find anything that fits. It seems the TRD stuff has been discontinued, can anyone recommend alternatives that i could use for my runx and a supplier?

Need a review on this kit and if all the bushing fit our zze123. Does anyone have a before and after shot of how it looks installed. thanks.

short shifter is a waste of money IMO - get some brass bushings and get that nice crisp feel back.

http://www.monkeywre...products_id=720

boom!

I purchased those a while back but they didnt fit our application

pretty sure i can get them for a couple hundred less then that. just jap is usually a rip off. i really wanna know if the 03-07 matrix and 03-07 corolla coilovers fit. all ive read is you have to drill out the holes on the perch for the camber bolts. but that's all i've read, surely being on the same platform everything else is alright?

The us coilovers for the 03-06 corolla fit. Im running the Tein SS on my ZZE123 and it was no problems, no drilling. If you go with the matrix you will have to drill. Energy suspension bushings also fit from the corolla 03-06.

Hey everyone, i have tein super street coilovers set to 2in drop from stock in front and 1.75 drop in the rear. I have the rebound and compression setting at 6 out of 16 in front and 3 out of 16 in the rear (street setting). Im running 1º negative camber with 0º toe and slight posotive caster up front and 1.3º negative camber in the rear. I am running energy suspension poly bushes all round with stock sway bars and no strut tower bars. My spring rates are 6kg/mm front and rear. Has anyone tried any specific setting that work as the optimum for track and still be ok for day to day driving. I want to get back into dexterity racing next year and be very competitive. With my current suspension set up is there any improvements that i can make that make a big difference. I have seen many bars from Ultra Racing, any idea if any are worth while?

Thanks

Scott

Im having an issue with my shifter on my zze123. It feels a bit loose like if the bushings or somthing inside is worn. When im in gear i can wiggle the shifter from side to side and i remember when i got it it was nice and firm. What could cause this. Also anyone has any suggestions for a short shifter that works very well?

Thanks

Scott

Anyone know where i can get upgraded new replacement rotors for the runx? Are there any better than stock rotors out there maybe cross drilled or slotted?

Anyone knows where i can order a replacement manual shifter boot from. My own is beaten to death. Would the one from the U.S. corolla or the zzt celica be the same?

Thanks alot

Carmate do similar one's but you definitely need professional installation. I bought a rear lip through them and had to get a shop to install it. It looks awesome but the guys really had to work it into place and use a fair amount of sikaflex to make sure it sat right.

Thanks alot.

My front bumper has taken somewhat of a beating so im looking for the same version or a replacement that is not the stock one that everyone has. Anyone know of people making body kits for the big light zze123? Anyone know who made the front bumper on my car thats attached. Its a JDM 01 Runx Zze123.

Thanks

Scott

Honestly i think the cams are awsome. The car even with the stock ecu is much quicker below cam but without the PFC you will not see the gains you are supposed to. That said thow i find they rock. Its the way it should have been from the factory. I have a CAI, stock exhaust, the stage 2 pipers and a ported extractor and i find the car is alot quicker than the basic bolt ons. I went on the dyno and got about 5 hp at the top over a runx with exhaust and intake and 15 hp at the 4500 or so mark and a bit more than that in torque.

http://www.ingallseng.com/31501-Series-Full-Contact-Shim.html

Check that out, thats about all i have found that can do the job.