Dobby_The_House_Elf

Hi Edd, Yeah with the exhaust definitely going to get a more freely flowing Y-pipe made up. Although not sure if There'll be enough space before the cat to package everything properly, I might have to get headers made at the same time so I can control where the outlets are for them but either way the rear bank section of the Y-pipe is going to have an unfavourable bend in it somewhere. Though with that being said, it more than likely will be so much better than the current 180' degree bend the Y pipe currently does to join onto the front bank. I've had an interesting development, that is the body loom that has the one ECU plug going into it is different auto to manual. That poses a rather annoying problem. from what I can see doing minimal educated wire tracing is that the ECU plug on the body loom that goes to the ... - RHS fuse block - Instrument cluster - Some other body functions From what I can gather and theorize is the auto version of that loom has lighting and such for the A/T console and what not. So my theory is that shouldn't matter putting a manual box and engine loom in. My only problem is if the body loom makes a stop at the ignition barrel for the A/T start inhibitor switch, Then I'm in trouble. At this stage I am NOT puuling the dash on my auto just to find out lol. I'll link some pictures etc later.

Wow, It's been so long since I checked this. I didn't even get a notification saying there was a reply. Thanks for the info. I happened upon a whole complete car that is manual. I have everything I need to convert it. Best thing is the engine and box have only done 280k compared to 431k. I have a few pieces of info, one very minor difference which would make the whole conversion unviable if you were to just stick a manual on the auto engine is that the end of the crank supposedly has a cutout to accept the input shaft of the manual box but thinkning about it that can't really be true because reasons. I just had a quick look at that thread you linked. A lot of it is non applicable to me as he's actually going to the 1MZFE, I'm going 3VZFE > 3VZFE it's good because all of the manual specific wiring is on the engine loom which connects to the main fuseboard and inside the cabin to the body loom. as far as I can tell there is no differences in the body loom between the auto and manual. Things like the ECT switch are simply not used in the M/T. the AUDM cars don't have a clutch switch either. Unlike the US and JAP cars. I've decided because I needed to pillage the donor for injectors, alternator and a few other parts which means taking the intake manifold off and various accesories to get to them. I'm going to just use the short block and use the best pieces from each motor. things like the nasty plastic vacuum switches on the intake manifold etc. The best thing is by far the donor wiring harness is not crusty or brittle which hopefully is a good sign that the motor has never gotten abnormally hot. My 3VZ has been ran hot a few times before I took ownership of it and all the plastic injector plugs, knock sensor plugs, plastic vacuum line ends all just break to the touch, it's highly annoying and severely inconvenient. I'm going to put a heavy duty exedy clutch in it and a basic intake/exhaust setup. maybe a 3" Y pipe back with a "slightly" illegal cat delete (car was on 4 cylinders so the cat melted and I'm not bothering to spend nearly 500 dollars replacing it when the 3VZ enjoys a noticable differnece without it. thank god for NSW laws) I'm going to run a resonator because you know drone 😄 I'm having a hard time choosing big oval commodore spec tip or 2.5" dual tips. I'm going to knock up a ram air enclosure which will house a cone filter. Anyhow in manual trim these cars are VERY decieving. They are not a slow motor car.

Hi Everyone I'm looking to clarify what MT is in the XV10 Camry's/Vienta's here in Oz. Doing research gives conflicting info. Some say it's the E53 other sources suggest it's the E153. Also, I'm looking for a list of parts and general info on doing a manual conversion. My car is the 3.0L Vienta (which I'm finding out manuals hardly exist haha). First and foremost, I need to know what kind of nasty little surprises I may encounter whilst doing this swap. I know the firewall will need to be drilled to accept the clutch master cylinder, that's of semi minimal concern, what I'm looking for is clutch switches wether the ECU will need to be changed etc. Thank god the Auto bodyshell still retains the clutch brakct mounting dowels. Parts I have already have - Clutch pedal assembly - Clutch hardline with flexible end - Clutch master cylinder Parts I need that cannot be sourced from Toyota anymore - Manual box - Shift cables - Gear lever These are the big worry trying to get a hold of, They're very rare and the car I found in the wreckers has had the gear lever ends of the cables cut which is super aggrivating. Parts that can be sourced from Toyota or Aftermarket - Clutch - Flywheel (toyota want 820 dollars) - Clutch master cylinder - Clutch slave cylinder If there's anything I've missed or if anyone has information that could help. It would be greratly appreciated. Thanks Corey