mkay

Hi

Just wondering if there are any scale model/die-cast model car of the aurion specifically the sportivos out there

or can they be made by someone

wouldn't mind having one displayed

Thanks in advance

Hey bud, found this today.

http://www.paudimodel.com/shop7/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=276&productname=

Personally I would not do it unless it had a function, maybe to supply more cool air to an after market intake orSRI. A bonnet scoop doing nothing is just as bad as putting on those fake plastic brembo brake caliper covers in discussion at the moment.

Now with BC Racing coilovers fitted.

After resetting the ECU and refuelling I have done another 2500kms with no more problems. I still put it down to either the fuel at the dodgy servo in the middle of no where, or the fact that I mixed 98 octane with their 91 octane and the O2 sensor didn't like it.

Thanks again to those who replied.

Ended up being the fuel. Drained the left over fuel, refuelled it, reset ecu. Done around 100 km around town and all good. Thanks to those who replied. Don't buy fuel in Pardu WA.

About 5kms before the problem I stopped at a dodgy servo, put 20litres of 98 oct fuel in from my Jerry can plus 20litres of 91 from the pump. Think I might drain the tank. Will disconecting the battery clear the codes.

Some information on such an occurrence can be read here in another thread:

Check VSC Error

Basically the list of possibilities are endless. Getting it read by Toyota or another scan tool can narrow it down, but even still, there can be many possible causes.

You should get it read by Toyota and let us know if it is exhaust related :P

Otherwise you can reset you ECU by pulling the ECU fuses for a minute then forever wonder what the error was about (providing that it doesn't come back).

Hi all, I am currently in the process of moving from Perth to Darwin and on my way into broome my car through a check engine light, the anti skid caution, red ! Light and a VSC system check light on the display. I'm staying the night in broome but need to leave asap. Does anyone have any suggestions to the cause of the problem. I drove the car for a couple hundred ks after the issue to get to broome with no noticable effect. Do you think it would be fine to continue driving up to Darwin. Thanks for any help provided.

where is the best place to get K&N short ram ? saw it in "autoanything" for $292. is there a better price or better site to look at ?

You can find them on eBay for around USD$250 plus around USD$80 for shipping. If you can get shipping cheaper than USD$40 from Autoanything, than that would be a good price.

add says free shipping, doesn't say if price in aud or usd,might look around.

I got mine for $380 Australian delivered on e-bay. $100 of that was for shipping but I recieved it from the states in less than one week. You just have to compare totals as some plces sell cheaper but charge more for shipping.

I haven't forgoten about posting the videos and will try and do so next week when I get some time off work.

ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

K&N also quoted 192hp at the wheels during their testing of the standard Aurion. All dyno's give different reading, that's why I should have got a before and after test. I might take my car to another dyno and pull 220 and then another and get 210. As, you said the 1/4 mile would be a good test but I simply do not have the time as I work two jobs and have a family. I am happy with the results and proved the Y-pipe is do-able. I'll try and get some videos up over the next few days.

ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying.

Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is.

I was a little confused to see the rpm curve on that dyno run sheet. It seems the peak powers just shy of 4000rpm. Surely thatsnot right?

He did not have any rpm sensors hooked up, I am not sure why. I guess he figured it was not necessary as we just wanted to test the power. You can see the peak power was developed just before the rev limiter cuts in, which I think was around 6300-6500rpm.

ATW HP will be very close to flywheel kW due to drivetrain loses.

1HP equals approx 0.75kW and you can expect loses to be between 20-25%.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

Well, I had the car Dyno'd today, would have liked to have reached around 220hp atw but only managed 212.7. I guess it would be close to 220kw at the engine. The weather was warm here in Perth today and I just got the car back from Toyota yesterday after having the Trans ECU replaced so maybe with a little more time for the computer to adjust and a little cooler weather I may have gotten a little closer. Again, I wish I had the car dyno'd prior to the mods to work out the exact gains as all dynos are different. Overall I am happy and don't regret spending the money as just the sound improvement was enough to satisfy me. Had a chance to give it some stick on some open roads today on the way to work and was pretty happy.

Here's the printout:

The red line was the first run, we repositioned the dyno cooling fan on the second run to direct more air toward the engine air intake which made a significant difference (the blue line)

Car is booked in for a dyno run Wednesday morning. I will video the run and post the results wednesday evening. The video may take me a few days to post.

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ?

With the cat back system it was just loud, now you can hear a lot more of what the engine is doing. It's a similar sound to what I got when I installed a big cam in my previous car, kind of a choppy, lopey sound. You'll be able to hear it on the dyno run video once it's done.

Car is booked in for a dyno run Wednesday morning. I will video the run and post the results wednesday evening. The video may take me a few days to post.

I am very interested to see the results for this, as the OP states that the drone from the exhaust seems to have disappeared almost entirely from just changing the Y peice. If this is the case, holy cow.

On a side note and regarding twin pipe setups. I have been speaking with the guys at A1 Exhausts in Sunbury here and if I can muster up the courage to do it... We WILL attempt a complete twin pipe setup, this is including a replacement manifold aswell. Twin setup all the way to the back. Not sure on space requirements etc, but we'll see... :P

Good stuff on this though either way! Who knows, I might just do this if it's gonna be a good help.

If you are going to change the stock manifold and do not intend to run the triple cat set-up (two off the manifold, 1 on the main pipe) you will have problems with the check engine light. However I have read a few articles lately on the net about tricking the post cat O2 sensors into thinking they are recieving the correct signal by using diodes on the O2 sensors electrical looms. Just do some google searches for more info.

The post cat O2 sensors on the Toyota only fine tune the fuel mixture by a maixmum of 2% to maximise the catalytic efficiency.

I believe there would be sufficient room for a full twin system but would recommend using the standard Manifolds with the Cats incorporated and running two high flow cats further down the line to gaurentee you will not have the check engine light issue.

Good luck.

Nicely Done Mkay... Anyone from Brisbane trying that??

I'll wait for the dyno results first to gauge some figures. I was thinking more of modifying it but keeping equal header length which means having a bend in the pipe still. Anyone with more knowledge on the subject care to explain if there are any advantages to equal header length?

In my opinion equal length headers are only necessary on a full twin system. With my set up, both pipes merge into one, so you will have equal back pressure on all valves anyway. On the twin system you need to be more pedantic because having different length of pipes overall, will affect back pressure differently of each cylinder bank, affecting the torque curve differently of each cylinder bank.

thats awsome with the Y pipe, I did the same with my previous camry, now I have seen this I will be seeing my exhaust man this week to do the same, what mufflers are you using ? they seem very small.

The mufflers are actually made by the company I had do the Cat back system, D&T Performance. They have stores in Adelaide and Darwin as far as I'm aware.

did the put both o2 sensors in the one bank??

It sure looks like it.

The wiring loom for the rear Heated Oxygen Sensor was not long enough to reach the rear pipe of the modified set up and the wires can not be lengthened. All the post cat o2 sensor does is fine-tune the air-fuel ratio to maximize catalyst efficiency. So both sensors on the same pipe should have no effect (unless the other cat stops working, she'll be right)

hi mkay nice work there. where did you get the exhaust done?

I had the recent work done at The Performance Shoppe in Wangara, by the owner (Harry) who has been in the trade for over 10 years. I was very happy with the quality of workmanship.

Been a while since I've played around with my Aurion. I lost a bit of interest after failing to lower it with king springs a couple of years ago due to scrubbing. At the time I had a cat back system made up by D&T exhaust in Darwin. I have finally got around to getting a K&N intake kit and had success getting a custom made mandrel bent Y-Pipe and High flow Cat installed by a performance shop in Perth. I was extremely suprised to find the custom Y-Pipe has actually eliminated the exhaust drone I used to get with just the Cat back system. The car seems to rev a lot more freely and the sound is awesome now too (surprisingly, a lot different to just the Cat back system)

The shop that did my exhaust has a Dyno so next chance I get (hopefully next week) I will get it tested and post the results. I know I should have got before and after Dyno tests done but did not have the extra cash to burn.

I can't believe Toyota released this car with such a pathetic exhaust, the engineer who designed the original Y-Pipe should be sacked. Must have just been a cost cutting thing and for ease of assembly.

Next on the list is a set of BC Racing coilovers (before X-mas) and Toyota has just ordered me a new Transmission ECU to remedy my Transmission flare.

Toyota's attempt:

Custom Y-Pipe:

Tail Pipes:

Intake:

With 20" wheels the increase in overall wheel diameter is less then 12mm (6mm each side) over standard, not enough to cause a problem.

The scrubbing of the inner gaurds is because the rims are wider, so the outer edge of the tyre scrubs the inner guard. I have 20"x8.5" rims with 245/35 tyres fitted, had it lowered and had the same problem so stuck the original spings back in. I recently drove from Darwin to Perth with the ORIGINAL springs fitted, cargo of one passenger and around 120kg of luggage in the boot and on the rear seat. The road was not all that rough but the odd dip in the road still caused it to scrub and it DID wear a hole through both rear inner gaurds. I have some rub marks on the front inners too (The tyres where fine). I think any size rim (18, 19, 20 etc) will have similar problems with a 245 or larger tyre fitted.

Read more here about my initial lowering problem.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...mp;#entry202521

And as for the comfort factor, theres absolutely no noticable difference in ride comfort between the 17' and the 20's in my opinion.

Mine will stay at standard height, it doesn't look too bad now that the springs have sagged a little bid.

Yeah Macca, i read some of your other topics and noticed that you had problems with 20" and lowering, and i was hoping you would reply to this topic so i could ask you some questions.

When you went to the suspension place, did they say they could stop the scrubbing, and did you have pedders or king springs. When you drove to perth and it wore a hole in the rear guard, did the guard scrubbing slow down as raised area on the guard wore a hole, or did it not make a difference.

Your right on the comfy, its all good till i hit a dip. As long as it doesnt cause damage to my vehicle i can probably put up with it. Sat im going to bunnings buy a plainer and some sandpaper then im going to pedders on to put it on the hoist and shave off the raise areas, and see if that fixes it. Fingerscrossed.

Thanks for the info, its good to know that im not the only one, and that your tyres havent been damaged throughout this process, it means their is maybe a light at the end of the tunnell, instead of maybey 4 torn tyres.

Cheers

Bondie

Here's a pic I just took of the rear inner guard. It's the same on both sides.

There are actually two holes, the big one at the bottom and one smaller one just above. Under the smaller one is where the plastic bumper attaches to the body of the car. It has actually started to wear the plastic away from the attachment point. This damaged all happened with the car at the standard height on the trip to Perth as previously stated. No more damage has occurred since the trip as I rarely load much weight into the vehicle, I was also traveling around 130-140 km/h so the dips in the road were amplified.

I had King sprigs fitted originally but had them removed within an hour once the problem was noticed. The guys at the suspension place had no idea on a remedy. After the drive to Perth I decided I would just have to live with the car at the standard height, it still turns plenty of heads.

You would have to remove too much material from the inner guard and bumper attachment, possibly compromising its strength.

I believe the only solution is to use a narrower rim and tyre or leave it standard height.

Good luck.

Just noticed you have an ATX, mine is a sportivo. I believe the sportivo springs are slightly lower than standard, this could also be an option for you. Might be worth checking out.

With 20" wheels the increase in overall wheel diameter is less then 12mm (6mm each side) over standard, not enough to cause a problem.

The scrubbing of the inner gaurds is because the rims are wider, so the outer edge of the tyre scrubs the inner guard. I have 20"x8.5" rims with 245/35 tyres fitted, had it lowered and had the same problem so stuck the original spings back in. I recently drove from Darwin to Perth with the ORIGINAL springs fitted, cargo of one passenger and around 120kg of luggage in the boot and on the rear seat. The road was not all that rough but the odd dip in the road still caused it to scrub and it DID wear a hole through both rear inner gaurds. I have some rub marks on the front inners too (The tyres where fine). I think any size rim (18, 19, 20 etc) will have similar problems with a 245 or larger tyre fitted.

Read more here about my initial lowering problem.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...mp;#entry202521

And as for the comfort factor, theres absolutely no noticable difference in ride comfort between the 17' and the 20's in my opinion.

Mine will stay at standard height, it doesn't look too bad now that the springs have sagged a little bid.

I'll probably be keen to go on the next organised cruise too. Let me know next time you tee one up. I'm fairly close to the Perth CBD.

i tried pushing it(0-130), not releasing the pedal, went up to 6500rpm++, with the lag when changing into higher gear, i m not sure if its faster than just putting it at D. Did not have the chance to use a timer to check any different, but i dont really dare to do it again, bcoz as aussiecamry said, not sure if there is any damage to the engine or any part of the trans.

Don't try in in your own car, get a hire car!!!! Their built for that kind of thing.

How did you go with the installation? how much clearance did you still have with the splits and Ovals?

I finished installing everything yesterday.

The rear 6x9 caused the most problems, if you mount them too deep, they contact the boot springs, too high and they hit the parcel shelf. I used 6 mm ply for the base with 16mm MDF for the baffle. The boot spring still just contacts the left speaker when the boot is closed, so I put some clear rubber tubing over the spring to avoid vibration.

The speakers were also still contacting the parcel shelf so I had to trim some plastic off the underside of the shelf to allow more room. It was a very tight fit but eventaully evrthing went into place.

The fronts were a lot easier. I made the baffles just like in DKzr6's guide but to fit the round woofer and there was plenty of clearance either side. I mounted the crossover inside the door panel near the forward top part of the door. The tweeters are mounted on the little plastic panels that cover the screws holding the rear view mirrors on. I'll take some photos and post them tonight.

I'm very happy with the sound, no unwanted vibrations at all. Definetly worth the effort but make sure you have a couple of days to work on it incase you run into any problems.

did u also change the HU, tats the MOST important to audio. u use 6x9 for rear, so u not using a sub?

I got the Sat/Nav unit, and I'm happy with it. It's loud enough for me. I spent over $6000 on the stereo in my commodore 7 years ago and its probably worth next to nothing now, not to mention having no room in the boot. The 6x9 produce fairly good bass on their own. I must be getting too old or something hey.