mkay

Hey bud, found this today. http://www.paudimodel.com/shop7/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=276&productname=

Personally I would not do it unless it had a function, maybe to supply more cool air to an after market intake orSRI. A bonnet scoop doing nothing is just as bad as putting on those fake plastic brembo brake caliper covers in discussion at the moment.

Now with BC Racing coilovers fitted.

After resetting the ECU and refuelling I have done another 2500kms with no more problems. I still put it down to either the fuel at the dodgy servo in the middle of no where, or the fact that I mixed 98 octane with their 91 octane and the O2 sensor didn't like it. Thanks again to those who replied.

Ended up being the fuel. Drained the left over fuel, refuelled it, reset ecu. Done around 100 km around town and all good. Thanks to those who replied. Don't buy fuel in Pardu WA.

About 5kms before the problem I stopped at a dodgy servo, put 20litres of 98 oct fuel in from my Jerry can plus 20litres of 91 from the pump. Think I might drain the tank. Will disconecting the battery clear the codes.

Hi all, I am currently in the process of moving from Perth to Darwin and on my way into broome my car through a check engine light, the anti skid caution, red ! Light and a VSC system check light on the display. I'm staying the night in broome but need to leave asap. Does anyone have any suggestions to the cause of the problem. I drove the car for a couple hundred ks after the issue to get to broome with no noticable effect. Do you think it would be fine to continue driving up to Darwin. Thanks for any help provided.

You can find them on eBay for around USD$250 plus around USD$80 for shipping. If you can get shipping cheaper than USD$40 from Autoanything, than that would be a good price. add says free shipping, doesn't say if price in aud or usd,might look around. I got mine for $380 Australian delivered on e-bay. $100 of that was for shipping but I recieved it from the states in less than one week. You just have to compare totals as some plces sell cheaper but charge more for shipping. I haven't forgoten about posting the videos and will try and do so next week when I get some time off work.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive. You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying. Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is. K&N also quoted 192hp at the wheels during their testing of the standard Aurion. All dyno's give different reading, that's why I should have got a before and after test. I might take my car to another dyno and pull 220 and then another and get 210. As, you said the 1/4 mile would be a good test but I simply do not have the time as I work two jobs and have a family. I am happy with the results and proved the Y-pipe is do-able. I'll try and get some videos up over the next few days.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive. You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying. Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is. I was a little confused to see the rpm curve on that dyno run sheet. It seems the peak powers just shy of 4000rpm. Surely thatsnot right? He did not have any rpm sensors hooked up, I am not sure why. I guess he figured it was not necessary as we just wanted to test the power. You can see the peak power was developed just before the rev limiter cuts in, which I think was around 6300-6500rpm.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive.

Well, I had the car Dyno'd today, would have liked to have reached around 220hp atw but only managed 212.7. I guess it would be close to 220kw at the engine. The weather was warm here in Perth today and I just got the car back from Toyota yesterday after having the Trans ECU replaced so maybe with a little more time for the computer to adjust and a little cooler weather I may have gotten a little closer. Again, I wish I had the car dyno'd prior to the mods to work out the exact gains as all dynos are different. Overall I am happy and don't regret spending the money as just the sound improvement was enough to satisfy me. Had a chance to give it some stick on some open roads today on the way to work and was pretty happy. Here's the printout: The red line was the first run, we repositioned the dyno cooling fan on the second run to direct more air toward the engine air intake which made a significant difference (the blue line)

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ? With the cat back system it was just loud, now you can hear a lot more of what the engine is doing. It's a similar sound to what I got when I installed a big cam in my previous car, kind of a choppy, lopey sound. You'll be able to hear it on the dyno run video once it's done.

Car is booked in for a dyno run Wednesday morning. I will video the run and post the results wednesday evening. The video may take me a few days to post.

If you are going to change the stock manifold and do not intend to run the triple cat set-up (two off the manifold, 1 on the main pipe) you will have problems with the check engine light. However I have read a few articles lately on the net about tricking the post cat O2 sensors into thinking they are recieving the correct signal by using diodes on the O2 sensors electrical looms. Just do some google searches for more info. The post cat O2 sensors on the Toyota only fine tune the fuel mixture by a maixmum of 2% to maximise the catalytic efficiency. I believe there would be sufficient room for a full twin system but would recommend using the standard Manifolds with the Cats incorporated and running two high flow cats further down the line to gaurentee you will not have the check engine light issue. Good luck.