joefish1298

I dunno if these parts are designed for street use in Japan, but assuming they are, and Japan has 100RON fuel, then wouldn't you also be able to run fine on one of the 100RON ethanol blends available here in Aus? There are other cars that come close to 13:1 eg. Audi RS4 with 12.5:1 and these cars run 98RON not 100RON. It's not just high compression that will cause detonation, piston design plays an important role and no doubt TRD have taken that into account. In fact I bet it's the engraved TRD logo on each piston that helps prevent detonation with the higher compression ;)

1. I never said it couldn't be done. I'm well aware it can be done. I've done it myself. 2. If you look at the spreadsheet you may undestand what I'm..............LOL...meh forget it

Oh thanks for the spreadsheet xoom. Was good to see the actual figures. My rough calculations of needing to rev to 10000 were quite off. You only need to rev to 9200 in first to land in lift LOL. Of course, if you raised the rev limit to 8500 and lowered the lift point to 5500 you could land in lift. Is 5500 too low to engage lift? Oh for all the people who don't understand the mechanics of the question I was asking......yes I'm a n00b, I need to learn to shift, I am ghey, my 100 shot of nitrous almost blew the welds on my manifold while I was granny shifting etc etc.

Why spend the money converting to auto? Just buy a Volvo

I worked it out for; 4x pistons 4x ring set filter manifold muffler flywheel Aaaaaah. Lol, my price only rebuilds one cylinder ;) I thought the price for pistons and rings was for a set of 4. I get $3852 (based on 406000 yen)

I worked out the list price to be $2571.

What is this clutch adjustment of which some of you speak and does this apply to an '05?

Well, I hate to disagree being a n00b and all, but if you wind out 1st to the limiter, clutch in, change to 2nd in 0 seconds (theoretically), clutch out (without slipping the clutch to keep the revs up), YOU WILL NOT STAY IN LIFT, the ratios do not allow it. It's a mathematical certainty.

Well maybe I screwed up, but the maths I used was: First I figured out where lift hits in 2nd, which seems smack bang on 80kmh. Then I drove dead on 40kmh in 1st and checked the revs ~5000-5100rpm. Double that to give me the 80kmh I need to land in lift when changing to 2nd (without keeping the throttle nailed during the shift or other techniques) and you have ~10000rpm. Thanks for the info and options BTW guys (and gals) :D

1st post, so hi, I'm Jezz. Ok, I'm sure this topic has been done to death, but I did a search and checked the "look here first" thread but couldn't find what I was after. The massive power hole between 1st and 2nd gear is really starting to **** me. I was thinking it needs to rev higher in 1st before figuring out you would need to rev to 10000rpm in 1st to land in lift in 2nd. Obviously not an option. Shorter 2nd gear? Maybe but then that would ruin 2nd to 3rd. Taller 1st, nah it's already too slow off lift in 1st. VVTLi Controller to move the lift point down a little lower? So the question is, what's the best way to get rid of/mask/lessen the impact etc etc of the off lift hole between 1st and 2nd? And why the hell did they design it like this in the first place? It doesn't happen in an Integra TypeR, redline in 1st shift to 2nd and you land straight at the VTEC point?? Thanks.