SilverProdigy

Cool. I found this on the net. http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

My setup is actually 1430w RMS total. I doubt I will be running to its maximum for most of the time. So the 4awg cabling should be sufficient.Time will tell. :)

I upgraded my sound system which will now have a maximum draw of 120A last week. It's a 1650w max system I haven't noticed any degradation with my electrical so far. Is it still worth doing the Big 3 upgrade. I've been told by the car stereo installers that the current cable of 4 awg is ok.

Great job! Install looks great and you get the sound quality as well! Plus you still have your boot space.

Good Review from MTR. Hopefully Toyota has fixed the rattles.

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/53950/2012-toyota-aurion-first-drive-review

Great results! I don't think you can hope for any much more improvement.

Good luck with the job!

The Aurion is definitely noisy. I drove my dad's 1997 TF Magna a couple of months ago and noticed how quiet it was compared to the Aurion. I travel on the same road at the same speed with the Aurion and both cars have the same tyre brand/model (Toyo Transas Teo), so definitely it's the sound deadening in the Aurion!

Umm, "new" 1GZFE?

the 2011 1GZFE VVT-I * a In addition to the adoption of the (continuously variable valve timing mechanism), and reduction of friction by 7.6km / L JC08 mode fuel consumption traveling * 2 run (10.15 mode 7.8km / L fuel economy * 2 to achieve outstanding fuel economy with it), FY 2010 fuel efficiency standards * 3 achieved. In addition, over single or promotion of the exhaust manifold, also low-emission gasification, such as fine particles by high-injector. Has obtained certification from the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport in low-emission vehicle certification system "level 75% lower than 2005 emissions standards."."

Completely useless for an Aurion

Why? there are Toyota's that have similar shape Markx, Genius, Crown, Crown Majesta, Crown Athlete. All have 2gr-fse RWD and AWD. Mentioning AWD because its east west and RWD north south. So that isn't so unpractical in 1 model.

I have submitted my interest to Ironshef he replied that he's ordered a 2011 - 2012 Crown Athelete to a client in Melbourne, total was Same as the Presara In Taxes with negotiating. Going to get some coin together, this is a car I’m very interested inc, a car I can drive for many, many years a real Keeper!!

RWD 2GR-FSE 17-inch disc brake callipers 4-pod, Adopt multi-link double wishbones, front and rear, mono-tube shocks, Rear electronic sun shades, Powered rear seats, Electric tilt and slide moon roof microcomputer Leather and epidermal fabric, Cruise control with active steering control, Tilt and telescopic steering, MANY more!!! Motec make ECU's for the Athlete in Japan too! For the same price as a Prodigy! And has the grunt of a TRD, but no torque steer! I’d have to be seriously retarded or have marbles in my head to buy a FWD with just a CD/MP3 player and basic plastic rattling interior over this if it's the same price.

So it's possible to get the Athlete here in Australia?

^{Thanks. The lack of boot space can be a an issue when going on road tripds.}

^{As for the price, yeah the whole package included the entire gear and installation. It's nearly five years on, and I'm glad I spent the money.}

I got it done as part of package (spearkers, amp, subs plus install). All up was arond $3,800. This was nearly five years ago.

I got it installed by the guys at GL Pro Audio in North Essendon.

The amps are screwed into the sub box.

4 channel amp and sub amps, 2 12" subs in the boot. No access to the ski hole though. Boot space has been reduced by around 40%.

I fixed my squeak around the gear shift console much the same way by using a small 20mm strip of U shaped rubber seal cut length ways and packed between the upper and lower plastic sections. Nice job you did though and good to have no more squeaks.

My 07 Aurion is out of warranty, so the dash rattle was going to cost $600 by Toyota to replace the dash clips. To stop the rattle, I bought a 3 pack of black rubber door stop wedges from a hardware store for $3, cut two of them down and placed one on either side of the dash between the dash and the windscreen. They are visable from inside the car, but from the outside they are hidden behind the black windscreen glass strip. Again, a cheap fix and no more rattles to annoy me.

Are you able to show some pics of how it looks from the inside? My Prodigy is out of warranty too and getting it investigated and fixed by the Toyota dealer would be too costly.

Apologies for the delay in replying, haven't been around these parts for some time.

I'm not sure if you wanted photos of the gearshift console or the dash? As you are unable to see the rubber strip between the gearshift console, I thought I would post photos of the dash showing the rubber wedges I modified to stop the dash rattle.

Hope these help!!

Thanks for this! The rubber strips works like a treat! I ended up buying smaller pieces of this stuff and didn't have to do any cutting.

Can I ask, when you measured the db levels, did you use any particular weighting? I was using the Radio Shack SPL meter and just realised I had it on the "C" (music) weighting when it measured 80db at 60km/h. When using the "A" (speech) weigthing it was in the mid 60 dbs.

From a purely empirical point of view, it shouldn't matter as long as the same settings on the SPL meter are used for the "before" and "after" measurements. You're looking for RELATIVE change in db levels and doesn't matter what initialised parameters you are using as long as the settings are the same.

Think of it this way, if someone tells you the temperature has dropped 15 degrees, it won't matter if it's in Celsius or Farenheit, or Kelvin. Fact is, it's gone cooler by 15 degrees. In this case, it's gone "quieter" by 10db.

I understand it's all relative. I am really more curios why we would get a big disparity in our initial readings. I just got the four doors sound deadened and got an improvement of around 2-3db. From 80db to around 78-73db at 60kph on the same patch of road. The earlier post mentioned tha the initial reading was 75db at 100kph and after sound deadedning was applied, the sound was around 10db improvement. Note when measuring road noise using the "A" (speech) weighting, the meter is less sensitve on the lower frequencies. In fact, when I measured using this weighting I was getting readings in the mid 60s.

By the way, 15d egrees cooler in celcius is not the same as 15 degrees cooler in Farenheit.

No i took the wheel off then all the plastic. I got the gurney and blasted the area clean and then stuck it on. And no i will not peal off, once it is on it is fairly perminent

Can I ask, when you measured the db levels, did you use any particular weighting? I was using the Radio Shack SPL meter and just realised I had it on the "C" (music) weighting when it measured 80db at 60km/h. When using the "A" (speech) weigthing it was in the mid 60 dbs.

I measured the sound levels at 60km/h on a relatively smooth road. I was getting around 80db on my Radio Shack Meter. I'm using the Transas Teo Plus tyres which are supposed to be one of the quieter tyres in the market. Didn't realise it's that noisy!

I'm planning to get all the doors (both the inner and outer skins) sound deadened. I'm also exploring the prospect of having sound deadening applied to the front tyre wells depending on how much it will cost me extra.

Yes the Aurion has ALOT of road noise, so i went to supercheap auto and ordered some sound deadning material for about $150. I stuck this stuff on up in my wheel wells mainly in the front and some in the rear. I also stuck some inside the center console as i noticed some noise coming up through there. The difference is 10 decibels. Without sound deadening the aurion was 74-75 decibels at 100KM/H / 2000rpm on the M7 then with sound deadening with those same figures and road, the reading was 64-65 decibels. So i am very happy with my result andi can notice the difference !!!

Great work! A 10db difference is huge.

Excuse my ignorance, but with the whee wells did you apply it on the outside? If so, are there any issues with it such as pealing off?

Ingres did some sound deadening for his even red aurion he said it made lots of difference...

Just wondering where the extra sound deadeding was applied? Eg. front doors, back doors, roof, floor? I've got my front door sound deadening and been advised that the outer skin may not been sound deadedn. So I may have to redo the fronts as well get the back done.

I fixed my squeak around the gear shift console much the same way by using a small 20mm strip of U shaped rubber seal cut length ways and packed between the upper and lower plastic sections. Nice job you did though and good to have no more squeaks.

My 07 Aurion is out of warranty, so the dash rattle was going to cost $600 by Toyota to replace the dash clips. To stop the rattle, I bought a 3 pack of black rubber door stop wedges from a hardware store for $3, cut two of them down and placed one on either side of the dash between the dash and the windscreen. They are visable from inside the car, but from the outside they are hidden behind the black windscreen glass strip. Again, a cheap fix and no more rattles to annoy me.

Are you able to show some pics of how it looks from the inside? My Prodigy is out of warranty too and getting it investigated and fixed by the Toyota dealer would be too costly.

Saw this ad on tv this afternoon. Shows an Aurion being driven to a series of rough roads and terrrains. I just couldn't help thinking that with all the dash rattles issues reported in this site that the people conducting the tests must have been wearing ear plugs! LOL.

To see the ad, click on the link below and scroll to the "Road Test" clip.

http://www.toyota.com.au/toyota/promise/gallery-carousel

I'm now averaging 13.8L/100km using 91RON as I'm only doing city traffic. Daily drive to work consists of 37 traffic lights each way. I normally cover the 13km drive to work in around 40mins. Aurion is great for highway driving, but city driving is average. Probably should have waited for the Camry Hybrid...Not.

I have owned my Prodigy for over three years now. I have only started noticing the dash rattles this year. It has come to a point that it is driving me crazy! It's so bad that I have considered just selling it. I think since I have moved and travelled more on those rough inner suburban roads that the internals of the dash have come loose. With my car no longer under warranty, plus an after-market audio system and high end tweeter installed, I have decided just to bear it. I fear that trying to get it fix will just cause other issues.

This is really disappointing aspect of an otherwise great vehicle.

I went to the local Car Audio store and decided on the speaker setup:

Focal 165VB 6.5" component speaker set

Focal 690CVX 6X9" co-axial loudspeaker set

Soundstream LW4500 amp

STINGER EXPERT ROADKILL RKX4 SOUND DAMPING BEAT DYNAMAT just for the speakers

The guy had installed these in his car and it sounded really good.

Thanks all for the help.

Looks like a great system. Next step would be to add some subs!

2007 Build Prodigy

- Front Passenger's head rest if no passenger is seating

- Front Passenger's seat belt

- Driver's side sun visor when hitting bumps

- Centre air vents when turned on high

- Lock in rear ski-hole..Caused by subs though

- Centre dash

Apart from these, very happy with the car. Was a passenger in a mate's 380 SX and it had rattles big time as well!

I am looking at getting exactly the same car but am concerned that the black interior will cause it to get very hot inside if the car is out in the sun. I don't intend to get tinted windows and anyhow I am sceptical about their effectiveness.

It is disappointing to hear about the internal blemishes. What sort of things were they?

How long did you have to wait for the care?

Are you prepared to say what you paid for it? I gather a Presara without any extras can be got for about $48,000 on the road.

I have a silver prodigy with black leather seats. It doesn't get too hot. I recommend that you get tinted windows and use the sun shade when parking. The car cools down pretty quickly anyway.

I just filled up my tank and got 48L/100km cause I planted it about half way down the road. Done about 50kms on the tank and managed to get it down to 12.0L/100kms so far. That's with some back street local driving and a run in this morning in traffic throught the harbour tunnel (Sydney). Will see how that goes.

Noticed that the range when full is just over 500kms. Is this what everyone else gets or is the range dependant on the way your drive. I'd think that when you fill the system resets back to default to the 500 is just a default value. Anyone know how many kms they get out of a tank or fuel? I've filled it with standard unleaded atm cause fuel prices were up over the weekend.

I am currently doing 9.7l/100km after a long trip.

I will have to check but I think I did see just over 500km as the range.

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After filling up, I the reading says 630km give or take cruising range. But with 50% urban and 50% freeway driving, I normally get to around 520-530kms before the low fuel warning light comes on.