yobedemc

I have just bought a 93 Estima 4wd diesel. Is the rear dif lsd its. In above average condition with 150000Ks. Can I get a workshop manual for it or maybe a service manual if so where. Is there anything I should watch for in this model. Is there any info available on the internet about these models?

Hi daffy, there's a really good site I found recently - www.autozone.com - hope this helps

Hi all, I'm new to this forum. I have an ACR 30 tarago and if I don't drive it for a couple of days the battery goes flat. Does anyone have any idea what would cause this? I would like to be able to fix whatever the problem is cos it's really frustrating having to tow it out of the garage and up the driveway just so the jumper leads will reach.

Hi Dna, it sounds to me like your battery has come to the end of it's life. Have you got any idea how old the battery is? A new battery should keep its charge for around 5 years or so, while an old battery loses its charge quite quickly, especially if it's sitting around. From what you've said, it seems that if the car is only sitting for one day it'll start up ok, but if left for 2 or more it won't start? That tells me that the alternator is doing it's job and charging the battery, but the battery is too old to keep its charge. You can have your battery tested easily by a mechanic or auto electrician, or you can do it yourself if you know what you're doing with a muti-meter.

i hope that helps.

Hi,

I recently bought a 1993 Toyota Tarago - 2.4L Petrol, EFI and have noticed a problem. When i press the accelerator down just slightly the car surges.

I was playing around with the car the other day trying to figure out exactly when this problem occurs. With the car in neutral, I pressed the accelerator down just slightly and noticed that when the revs were held at about 1500 rpm the engine surges (i.e. revs go up and down even though i'm holding my foot steady). This same problem occurs when i'm driving and when this happens it makes for a very jerky drive as if i'm rhythmically pressing and releasing the accelerator. The problem seems to be related to the position of the accelerator rather than speed, load, gear, etc, as it doesn't matter what gear i'm in or what speed i'm doing, when the accelerator is pressed down just slightly the car surges.

I've checked the spark plugs and cleaned them well, I've also done an oil change (including filter) and have changed the air filter (that's all i've done since buying the car).

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this problem???

I recently bought an Alpine CDE-9874E Head Unit for my 1991 Model Tarago (all the same up 1999 i think, the spaceship tarago's)

I thought " I’m good enough at electrical stuff to put it in my self."

That thought was true I just didn’t realize how hard it was going to be.

I searched this website frantically every couple hours to find where different screws were that needed to be taken out because I just couldn’t find them. Searching this website made me ask more questions and receive less answers so I thought I would tell everyone how I took it all out and back together and hope that this helps you. It is a good time to replace the light globes in the A/C panel as well while you have the panels off. If you have a problem please email me and I will try to help to the best of my ability. Happy tuning

The picture is off my phone so sorry about quality!

How To Remove Factory Stereo

Tools Required:

Wire Strippers

Needle Nose Pliers

Phillips Head Screw Driver – 1 long one is good as well as a small 1 with a ratchet

Torch

Soldering Iron + Solder with Flux

Electrical Tape

New CD Player

New 1 Din pocket or cover (unless you are replacing with a 2 Din CD Player)

Note: Place all screws in a safe container that won’t be knocked cause it’s a pain to look for a screw in the grass Lol.

Method:

1. Remove Fuse Box Cover. This reveals 4 screws. Undo the 2 outer screws.

2. Pull Drink holder as far out as you can without breaking it. On both sides of the drink holder you will find a screw, undo these.

3. Remove the Ashtray (If you haven’t done this before there is a flat metal sheet at the top of it on an angle, you push that done and pull out)

4. Open compartment thing at the bottom, If you are careful and I found it really hard you can reach down to the hinge and take it off. This allows you to remove the hole drink thing later.

5. Remove screw behind cigarette lighter. If you cannot due to weird angle follow step 6, if you can continue to step 7.

6. Look underneath the cigarette lighter once the compartment is off. You will see two cable running to it. With a good pull they should both come off. When you pull them off you should hold them by the plastic not the cable. Let the cable hang loose. You should now be able to remove the plastic surrounding behind the cigarette lighter. This opens up the metal cylinder, which you can then push out towards the car seats. Once that is out you can remove the grey surrounding with a good pull. It is a pressure-released clip so you can pull quite hard. Once the clip is off you will have to twist it slightly to pull white plastic thing through the hole. Undo the screw that is then revealed.

7. There is another screw on the right where the ashtray goes, remove that.

8. Now taking the whole drink thing in your hands you should be able to shake and twist the drink holder until it comes completely out.

9. Remove 2 screws in the metal plate that has been revealed they are tucked under a bit and connect the air- conditioning duct to the metal plate.

10. You will find three clips under the lip. You must simultaneously press these whilst gripping the top of the black surrounding where you removed your first two screws. Once it is up you can then pull it out being very careful not to tear or rip the foam that’s goes into the duct.

11. You have now revealed you stereo that is waiting to be destroyed.

12. The stereo should now effortlessly pull out revealing 2 clips at the back as well as the antennae cable. Unplug these cables. Once the whole stereo is freely on your hands you should remove the metal brackets.

13. I found that the factory brackets magically fitted into both my stereo and the pocket that I bought but this may not always be the case in which you will have to purchase a special bracket to fit your new head unit.

Wiring your stereo can be done in many ways; If you plan to remove it from your car then buying a harness is a good way to go. Alternatively you can buy male and female clips and connect these to the end of each cable (More time consuming but cheaper then a harness). Or you can cut off the clip that went to your stereo and solder the cables together like I did!. I can’t really tell you how to do it but I can say what not to do. Never let a bare cable touch another bare cable. Unless you have an immobilizer or something in your car I suggest you unplug the left terminal on your battery. So you don’t blow your stereo or any fuses.

Cable Reference:

You should find 2 clips at the back plus an antennae

One Clip will have 5 cables, the other will have 8 cables.

Power Cables:

White Cable = Ignition or Accessories

Red Cable (Thick) = Battery or Power

Brown Cable = Ground or Earth

Speaker Cables:

Right Front Speaker

+ = Light Green Cable

- = Light Blue

Right Rear Speaker

+ = Red Cable (Thin) (on clip of 5)

- = White Cable with silver dots (on clip of 5)

Left Front Speaker

+ = Pink Cable with silver dots

- = Purple Cable with silver dots

Left Rear Speaker

+ = Black Cable with silver dots

- = Yellow with silver dots.

Spare Cables - I found:

White and Black Cable (on clip of 5)

and

Dark Green Cable (on big clip)

I found these Cables useless to my stereo, if anybody knows what these go to please tell me (I didn't register any power in them but i may be wrong). Also if anybody knows how to replace the tweeters i would love to know because mine suck.

Now you should be able to put the whole thing back together pretty easily. Remember to plug the battery back in so the car will start and happy tunes.

If you need help i will try to give you the best help i can

I recently bought an Alpine CDE-9874E Head Unit for my 1991 Model Tarago (all the same up 1999 i think, the spaceship tarago's)

I thought " I’m good enough at electrical stuff to put it in my self."

That thought was true I just didn’t realize how hard it was going to be.

I searched this website frantically every couple hours to find where different screws were that needed to be taken out because I just couldn’t find them. Searching this website made me ask more questions and receive less answers so I thought I would tell everyone how I took it all out and back together and hope that this helps you. It is a good time to replace the light globes in the A/C panel as well while you have the panels off. If you have a problem please email me and I will try to help to the best of my ability. Happy tuning

The picture is off my phone so sorry about quality!

How To Remove Factory Stereo

Tools Required:

Wire Strippers

Needle Nose Pliers

Phillips Head Screw Driver – 1 long one is good as well as a small 1 with a ratchet

Torch

Soldering Iron + Solder with Flux

Electrical Tape

New CD Player

New 1 Din pocket or cover (unless you are replacing with a 2 Din CD Player)

Note: Place all screws in a safe container that won’t be knocked cause it’s a pain to look for a screw in the grass Lol.

Method:

1. Remove Fuse Box Cover. This reveals 4 screws. Undo the 2 outer screws.

2. Pull Drink holder as far out as you can without breaking it. On both sides of the drink holder you will find a screw, undo these.

3. Remove the Ashtray (If you haven’t done this before there is a flat metal sheet at the top of it on an angle, you push that done and pull out)

4. Open compartment thing at the bottom, If you are careful and I found it really hard you can reach down to the hinge and take it off. This allows you to remove the hole drink thing later.

5. Remove screw behind cigarette lighter. If you cannot due to weird angle follow step 6, if you can continue to step 7.

6. Look underneath the cigarette lighter once the compartment is off. You will see two cable running to it. With a good pull they should both come off. When you pull them off you should hold them by the plastic not the cable. Let the cable hang loose. You should now be able to remove the plastic surrounding behind the cigarette lighter. This opens up the metal cylinder, which you can then push out towards the car seats. Once that is out you can remove the grey surrounding with a good pull. It is a pressure-released clip so you can pull quite hard. Once the clip is off you will have to twist it slightly to pull white plastic thing through the hole. Undo the screw that is then revealed.

7. There is another screw on the right where the ashtray goes, remove that.

8. Now taking the whole drink thing in your hands you should be able to shake and twist the drink holder until it comes completely out.

9. Remove 2 screws in the metal plate that has been revealed they are tucked under a bit and connect the air- conditioning duct to the metal plate.

10. You will find three clips under the lip. You must simultaneously press these whilst gripping the top of the black surrounding where you removed your first two screws. Once it is up you can then pull it out being very careful not to tear or rip the foam that’s goes into the duct.

11. You have now revealed you stereo that is waiting to be destroyed.

12. The stereo should now effortlessly pull out revealing 2 clips at the back as well as the antennae cable. Unplug these cables. Once the whole stereo is freely on your hands you should remove the metal brackets.

13. I found that the factory brackets magically fitted into both my stereo and the pocket that I bought but this may not always be the case in which you will have to purchase a special bracket to fit your new head unit.

Wiring your stereo can be done in many ways; If you plan to remove it from your car then buying a harness is a good way to go. Alternatively you can buy male and female clips and connect these to the end of each cable (More time consuming but cheaper then a harness). Or you can cut off the clip that went to your stereo and solder the cables together like I did!. I can’t really tell you how to do it but I can say what not to do. Never let a bare cable touch another bare cable. Unless you have an immobilizer or something in your car I suggest you unplug the left terminal on your battery. So you don’t blow your stereo or any fuses.

Cable Reference:

You should find 2 clips at the back plus an antennae

One Clip will have 5 cables, the other will have 8 cables.

Power Cables:

White Cable = Ignition or Accessories

Red Cable (Thick) = Battery or Power

Brown Cable = Ground or Earth

Speaker Cables:

Right Front Speaker

+ = Light Green Cable

- = Light Blue

Right Rear Speaker

+ = Red Cable (Thin) (on clip of 5)

- = White Cable with silver dots (on clip of 5)

Left Front Speaker

+ = Pink Cable with silver dots

- = Purple Cable with silver dots

Left Rear Speaker

+ = Black Cable with silver dots

- = Yellow with silver dots.

Spare Cables - I found:

White and Black Cable (on clip of 5)

and

Dark Green Cable (on big clip)

I found these Cables useless to my stereo, if anybody knows what these go to please tell me (I didn't register any power in them but i may be wrong). Also if anybody knows how to replace the tweeters i would love to know because mine suck.

Now you should be able to put the whole thing back together pretty easily. Remember to plug the battery back in so the car will start and happy tunes.

If you need help i will try to give you the best help i can