Gibbo
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Posts posted by Gibbo
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I wish more people were as passionate about their Camry's as I am, I dont fully understand why its not the case as they are such innoffensive, well-built, reliable cars. I presume its the Australian physche that says regardless of how poorly built a car is, if its a Ford (USA) or Holden (USA) its simply better. Apart from the better seats in my VX Calais (80k) I LOVE and prefer to drive my V6 Camry (260k) with Sunroof, CD stacker etc, silky smooth. Even though its old now it feels so solid, gives me a sense of "I know it will get me where I want to go" The VX by comparison is "clunky", "rattley" just feels poorly built throughout (and had major failures such as power steering pump and other things), my fathers 05 BA ute by comparison feels like a truck and a generation or two older, in terms of refinement my mums 02 TJ with half the mileage feels "loose" "rattley" just doesnt have the quality feel. Is it because these cars are just so damn good and again inoffensive that they are just overlooked? I must admit, compared to previous cars (Non Toyota's) and my VX the car can be boring simply because it never breaks down or causes any dramas at all. It seems indicative of the kind of car they are that I and others have recently posted such a minor issue (although annoying) as a blown light on the Stereo Display on this forum. Look at other Australian made car blogs and they are talking about common and catastrophic mechanical failures (Falcon and Commodore). I like to look at the American blogs where they have a love affair with Camry (and other Toyota's) and are brave enough to acknowledge that US produced cars are simply garbage in a lot of cases (I can vouch for that with the 99 Dodge Intrepid rental I drove around west coast that was falling to pieces). I hope more Camry owners start to participate in this forum.
Enjoyed your notes...
group cosiousness has a lot to do with how ppl act
old habits die hard... ford etc...
Toyota is an outcome of GEMBA KAYZAN... it is a design philosopy, google it for info
it can change your life if you want to grow fast...
and this is the MAGIC you feel in the Camry...
and why Toyota is king...
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The boys are right...
my 2 cnts...
learn to use all that you got...
don't be afraid open it up, foot hard to the floor... and leave it there till you reach your cruise speed, lift foot.
learn to use the full accelerator... all the simple mods are just nickles & dimes
the super/ turbo thing is just mental chewing gum, unless your mental...
if that still doesn't do it... not enough torque, off the lights, because speed is out these days
just sell the car and buy a v6... seriously
if u not sure... go to any car yard & test drive one... the economy is about the same..
if your in love with your car... woun't sell it...
just get over it and sell it anyway...
it's mostly a mental thing, wait a while, get used to the car...
respect it's finner features, learn to squeeze every drop & just relax...
power is pretty much overrated anyway... if you are in desperate need and becoming must have...
just buy a turbo car...
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You have the aircon runnin at all???
I'd recommend resetting the ECU... let it renew the AFM and see if it fixes the problem.
Thermostat not working properly?? What's the temp inside the car mate? Should be halfway once she's all warm.
Yeah temp on the dash is normal no dramas there. How do you rest the ECU? give me a commo or falcon i can do it but as i said new to the toyotas but learning slowly but surely.
ecu re-set procedure is the same as u know how on commo... they all work the same way
and will re-learn any variation to circumstance over time anyway...
but a re-set will not fix your fan allways on prob...
that will be a faulty sensor sending power to the relay or fan motor
deffinetely not POD related... or from sucking some warm air...
and that can be confirmed for free, by putting the original filter back...say 10 mins max.
ok cheers if that was the case if i either took the relay out or disconnected the sensor would that give me the defenate answer? also the fan is a hydrolic 1 (however thats spelt) so does that run on some sort of vavle controlled by like an actuator or?? just a thought caise any electric fan pull out relay fan stops so just wondering if thats the same case with these.
ok you are right... I presumed your fan was electric
sorry I don't know what triggers the hydraulic fan drive...
others may know...
but I still very much doubt it will be pod related...
with engine warmed up... stop then feel with hand your radiator core
it should be uniformly warm... a cold area indicates blocked radiator tubes... this will result in fan running , I had that same experience.
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hey all
just a lil question
when i goto spin the wheels (burnout) the front end starts to jump and shutter
and i'd like to know what this is caused by as i'd like to spin them up a bit but i can do it without all the jumping and shuttering it does
i'd like them to just spin up beautifuly with a hell lot of smoke
cheers..
Yeah lets all make heaps of smoke, maybe get some old tyres, pile them up and burn them...
we don't give a rats about the ppl waving their little pinky, we just do what we like...
after all, it's our stupid car and we can just do whatever we want...
after all, can u imagine how famous we will be, in our own little mind, and our dumb**** mates will love it
hey that's cool, we were all young & dumb once, not... tyre smoke is sooo smart, the chicks love it.
how about slaming the thing into reverse while driving forward, why not it's my car & I don't care what u think...
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oh ok... thanks mm & others...
seems it's just not a busy place...
but i noticed many do read posts, seemed odd... read but not join in.
must just be the way it is...
camcrew pick up the slack anyway...
thanks replys.
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Why is it same one or two people post but many readers log on...
is there any life out there...
I don't care, but why, what is the reason??
allthough i notice some isolated topics draw attention...
are readers only interested in petrol consumption... is it a money matters thing??
if so, then we can frame posts around popular topics, and have more ppl join in...
with Toyota ownership just a common side issue...
eg: I know how you can have free rego, anyone interested??
I will post a response to this my querie later.
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How do you reset? And will that cause any problems?
no problem
just disconect battery for say 10-30 mins before putting terminals back on battery join them together for a minute to drain off residual power ...
dought very much will solve your prob...
what is the status on your miss,
have you tried anything we suggested to u...?
did u look at the revving motor in darkness?
was it the dizzy cap, leads or a bad plug....
your ball..
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You have the aircon runnin at all???
I'd recommend resetting the ECU... let it renew the AFM and see if it fixes the problem.
Thermostat not working properly?? What's the temp inside the car mate? Should be halfway once she's all warm.
Yeah temp on the dash is normal no dramas there. How do you rest the ECU? give me a commo or falcon i can do it but as i said new to the toyotas but learning slowly but surely.
ecu re-set procedure is the same as u know how on commo... they all work the same way
and will re-learn any variation to circumstance over time anyway...
but a re-set will not fix your fan allways on prob...
that will be a faulty sensor sending power to the relay or fan motor
deffinetely not POD related... or from sucking some warm air...
and that can be confirmed for free, by putting the original filter back...say 10 mins max.
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Hi everyone,
I'm a newbie to the forum. After some searching I recently managed to pick up a 1997 Vienta Touring for just $3700 on the road. I bought it privately and from the onset I exercised a considerable amount of caution due to the low price. It was advertised for around $4300 but I somehow managed to bargain it down.
For $3700 it included the following:
RWC and full 12 months registration. It was a one owner with a fully documented service history serviced every 5000km.
The car has done 180,000km. He had the major service done not so long ago and has put a brand new battery and four brand new tyres. Car has never been in an accident and has always been garaged. Hence all these enticing things combined were the very things that caused me to be a little suspicious at the beginning. However rather suprisingly it turned out not to be the case as the guy seemed quite genuine and very organised. The car also actually turned out to be in excellent condition both inside and out. When test driving the car I took it for a real spin and onto the freeway as well. The gearbox is tight and precise while the engine is velvety smooth right throughout the rev range. At cruising speed the cabin is hush with no perceptible sound from the engine. It seems to really come alive more in the midrange.
For this particular model it comes with driver's side airbag, ABS, keyless entry, CD player, leather streering wheel, leather gearknob, leather handbrake, upgraded sports suspension and rear spoiler. This generation Camry's fit and finish is actually quite good. My brother has the generation 4 camry 2.2 and somehow the interior plastic fit and finish and trim doesn't seem to be quite as good as the generation 3. However this is only my subjective perception.
My only cause for concern is that despite being reliable I hear that these 3VZ-FE engines do need careful attention with regards to its head gasket. Is blowing the headgasket something that is inevitable with these cars after 200,000km or as long as I service the car properly and keep a careful check of coolant levels etc it shouldn't really be a problem? So far this seems to be my only worry in which I would like to hear your opinions.
Also all things being equal how is the fuel consumption compared to the auto 2.2 litre camry of the same generation and how much should I expect from a full tank.I have posted a pic for those who may be interested in seeing what the car looks like. I'll post more pics in the near future.
Thanks and look forward to being a part of the forum.
Fizza
I drive the same, they are a great package and great value... 3-4k is about right... (I paid 1.5K perfect condition)
head gasket, just don't worry at all... change out the radiator hoses, (if needed) and watch your temp...
when it gets hot stop, new gaskets are easy to fix and it's good for another 200K... simple.
consumption: fill the tank, after 3-400 K re-fill and see how many ltrs into the milage... every driver & car is different.
I get about 10lts/100k...
I reckon they sway about like an old boat... for less than 200$ new sports rear sway bar... and that's it...enjoy.
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Hey all,
Has anyone had trouble with the thermo fan on a v6 wide body vienta keep running the whole time the car is running after putting a pod filter on? If so is there any way to make it run as normal instead of always goin?
Cheers.
I'd be surprised if the new air filter was the cause for fan staying on...
replacing the original filter will quickly eliminate the pod as the cause, for free..
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Need some advice - have just inherited a 1997 Vienta v6 from my late father. He used to change the oil and filter every six months, car has only travelled 45,000kms. I drive the car to work two days a week and is not likely to travel more than 5,000km this year but I don't want to sell it. The car is very sluggish, I was told to use high octane petrol and Nulon additives to help. The car has not been serviced thoroughly for years, it is immaculate but I fear a thorough service will cost an arm and a leg. Any suggestions?
Allways sad to hear a fathers passing, his car and service habits speak well of him...
How fortunate you are to keep his memory so alive by tacking over care of his much loved car...
Toyota is so advanced, there is not much to do to keep it in good order... power should be quite strong.
Importantly, oil and filter were in good hands, change every 10K klm or less, say 12mnths..
Air filter is important, & very easy for u to change... get a genuine unit.
Spark plugs probably don't 'need' changing... but why not freshen them up with newies... post a how to 4 good advise.
Fuel filters... Again post for advice... I never changed on your model :)
If these couple easy things don't help, post again,
now they have been done we can move to having your O2 sensor checked, cheap and easy... it may be sluggish.
And have your 'codes' read at the same time... will indicate some existing prob, not immediatly obvious.
Both the above checks can be got for free by mechanics with the equipment, just by asking them.
Nulon is a good internal component protection and anti friction measure
and the different fuels will not make much diff to performance...
but cars do need plenty of air, and good spark, and good engine management...
After that we're looking at 'draging' disc pads, half flat tyres, or a boot full of bricks, ( unlikely) but weight is not wanted.
Do what you can yourself, we will help you, learn your dads car... it's all pretty easy.
Let us know how you go... cheers.
Others that know more than me should chime in with advice...
it's a good project.
Grab a K&N high flow air filter for it they are a bit exy but it'll be the only one you will ever need to buy for that car as they are non disposable.
Best thing to do for any car is clean out the intake to gain econemy and power.
After that just normal service with good quality parts and product and the car should well last you for years to come.
Also highoctane petrol will help to make the car have a bit more kick to it and aslo better econemy in my experience however the change will take a little while as the ecu has to adjust itself to do this.
Hope this helps
Just did an oil & filter change myself, used Nulon Oil Flush first, then Castrol GTX3 oil. Added a Nulon oil treatment, Nulon Octane Boost and a K&N air filter. It has had a dramatic effect on performance and smoothness. Many thanks for the advice on the K&N, well worth the extra money. Will only be using premium unleaded from now on.
The mechanic my father used had put some sort of gel on the sump plug to protect it. It was easy to peel off with a screwdriver and has left the plug in pristine condition. I went to an AutoPro shop to see if they had something similar and they said it was the first time they had heard of someone doing that to a sump plug. I think it is a great idea but am not sure what the mechanic used (he has since retired). Any ideas?
Oils wount make it go all that much better, oil is oil is oil
How dirty was the old filter, was it brown or full of dust,
did u bang it upside down to see what come out...
because all u done so far is replace the a/filter... to account for al the extra gooo.
and some fuel additve but not injection cleaner... these 3vz are easy to please.
Well his old filter may well have been fine but replacing it with a high flow filter will always make a car more responsive.
His injectors probably wouldn't need a clean either cause his car has only done 45 anyway, however the Nulon fuel additive I use when I can be bothered cleans injectors as well as raising RON so hopefully the product he got does that as well.
The Nulon oil treatment (exy stuff) is gold, they reckon they drove a Holden for over 1000 ks with no oil just there product and was all sweet.
It's a bit pricey but well worth it, makes an engine run like new.
So yeah 3VZ and 1MZ are really easy to please, you just have to take care of them.
Real time field test situation re: a/filters...condition of old vs new high flow.
Absolut i agree Bjcak08 has done a really really top job.
with great results...
car is in good hands.
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Need some advice - have just inherited a 1997 Vienta v6 from my late father. He used to change the oil and filter every six months, car has only travelled 45,000kms. I drive the car to work two days a week and is not likely to travel more than 5,000km this year but I don't want to sell it. The car is very sluggish, I was told to use high octane petrol and Nulon additives to help. The car has not been serviced thoroughly for years, it is immaculate but I fear a thorough service will cost an arm and a leg. Any suggestions?
Allways sad to hear a fathers passing, his car and service habits speak well of him...
How fortunate you are to keep his memory so alive by tacking over care of his much loved car...
Toyota is so advanced, there is not much to do to keep it in good order... power should be quite strong.
Importantly, oil and filter were in good hands, change every 10K klm or less, say 12mnths..
Air filter is important, & very easy for u to change... get a genuine unit.
Spark plugs probably don't 'need' changing... but why not freshen them up with newies... post a how to 4 good advise.
Fuel filters... Again post for advice... I never changed on your model :)
If these couple easy things don't help, post again,
now they have been done we can move to having your O2 sensor checked, cheap and easy... it may be sluggish.
And have your 'codes' read at the same time... will indicate some existing prob, not immediatly obvious.
Both the above checks can be got for free by mechanics with the equipment, just by asking them.
Nulon is a good internal component protection and anti friction measure
and the different fuels will not make much diff to performance...
but cars do need plenty of air, and good spark, and good engine management...
After that we're looking at 'draging' disc pads, half flat tyres, or a boot full of bricks, ( unlikely) but weight is not wanted.
Do what you can yourself, we will help you, learn your dads car... it's all pretty easy.
Let us know how you go... cheers.
Others that know more than me should chime in with advice...
it's a good project.
Grab a K&N high flow air filter for it they are a bit exy but it'll be the only one you will ever need to buy for that car as they are non disposable.
Best thing to do for any car is clean out the intake to gain econemy and power.
After that just normal service with good quality parts and product and the car should well last you for years to come.
Also highoctane petrol will help to make the car have a bit more kick to it and aslo better econemy in my experience however the change will take a little while as the ecu has to adjust itself to do this.
Hope this helps
Just did an oil & filter change myself, used Nulon Oil Flush first, then Castrol GTX3 oil. Added a Nulon oil treatment, Nulon Octane Boost and a K&N air filter. It has had a dramatic effect on performance and smoothness. Many thanks for the advice on the K&N, well worth the extra money. Will only be using premium unleaded from now on.
The mechanic my father used had put some sort of gel on the sump plug to protect it. It was easy to peel off with a screwdriver and has left the plug in pristine condition. I went to an AutoPro shop to see if they had something similar and they said it was the first time they had heard of someone doing that to a sump plug. I think it is a great idea but am not sure what the mechanic used (he has since retired). Any ideas?
Oils wount make it go all that much better, oil is oil is oil
How dirty was the old filter, was it brown or full of dust,
did u bang it upside down to see what come out...
because all u done so far is replace the a/filter... to account for al the extra gooo.
and some fuel additve but not injection cleaner... these 3vz are easy to please.
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Go with Whiteline for that one champ.
On your car I'm pretty sure the stock rear sway bar would only be 11mm which is next to nothing, same as mine I think.
You should be able to get a 18mm one from whiteline for around $220 shipped or something like that.
you'd also need to get new bushings to fit a larger rear bar.
I spoke with whiteline today, they will deliver 18mm as u say, so easy...
got in touch with: Gibbo Double Strength Sway Bars.
Two originals welded together..
well under $100 new. Neoprene bushes included.
Theoretical outcome:
much stiffer than single bar...
probably too stiff and likely to lift inside wheel under exreme cornering.
possible upgrade of sway bars struts required for Heavey Touring.
Road test to follow.
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Had all tyres balanced, recently (500Klm )
there was some small rocking movement in the s/ wheel at slow speed...
So todday, we spun them again on the balancer and a couple were slightly out of round...
New set of Pirelli... huge difference, no s/wheel movement at all and niiice on the road.
But I notice the car does 'lurch' on corners and roundabouts... From the rear it feels...
Just doing some research on rear bars...
anyone with experience, welcome to comment..thanks.
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custom recaro? how much that set you back?
Multiple posts...sorry kept showin error and I had to re post'so now there's heaps...
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custom recaro? how much that set you back?
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custom recaro? how much that set you back?
that was some 15 years ago
I bought a recaro used and had it re-upholstered to suit my body...
I may do the same with this cars' seat once I sort it out, but as it is, it doesnt matter that much... low g' s
more height is easy and free..
this one size fits all is a bit of a bench in comparison...
it was a bit pricy compared to regular seat, but totaly worth it,
the car sits on tyres, you sit on the seat...
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error by mistake
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Gees, if ya daughter's that old, she probably not far off my age, lol.
I'm serious about the bolts though, normally you need an engineer's cert for swapping out seats, let alone modifying the plate thingy that it sits on!
Thanks good advise, you are quite right,
in my first post mentioned the use of new hardened bolts..
hardened allen head bolts with a metal 25mm spacer the length of the base support...
Years ago I had a custom recaro and used to put it into different cars as they came along...
those 'proper' seats made a huge difference..
you could just drive with your mind and let your fingers and feet do the work...
stock seat are lame but you don't really notice,...
but you use a lot more muscles and energy with stockies,
top shelf exotics have great seats...
The Tourer has ok seats... it's just an everyday car after all...
The seats in the 5 speed are pretty lousy though,
little support, thin and hard... but I don't drive it, so I don't care...
Thanks your good advise, readers should follow...
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lol i sit low. just confortable but i can still see over the steering wheel. the car makes me look short as but oh well :)
Yeah well the thing is I'm like regular height, and Kate jus comes up to my shoulders, that's without her killer heels...
Thing is the 3vz has got soo much grunt, on her first drive I had to really hang on, she sqeeled that it does 70 in second gear, and wound it right out, I think it's the 2.5 pipe and that magnaflow really does sound great...
There doesn't seem to be a rev limiter on the thing, I seen her spin it out to 7 grand...lucy it's got 4 bolt mains.
I think that's why she has her arms so straight out, the thing just really takes off and she really focuses on the job...
and being low at the front 30mm, and with the little mechanitehnico stearing wheel and metal go fast pedals.
it just seems to make you want to thrash it...
but she's a good driver, I think because i 'v had so many cars and she's driven them all since she was little..
Coming home from schoolies with her mates she blew the donk in my fairmont Ghia...
She blew the motor in her N13 Pulsar Q and was unlucky in her Lantra, it should have had ABS...
But I've seen lots of young ppl with their seat wound back... I mean I don't care..
Except kate never puts the seat back, & when I get in my car after her taking it out, like she does...
I feel like I'm in a dentist chair, then I got to readjust it all over because I'm fussy about my seat position...
The bimmer has memory and that's one of the things I really like about it... I think the Grande has it as well.
She loves the Gen 3, As soon as she seen it she wanted it and took it straight away...
I'm going to get her a neat sports metal gear changer for her birthday...
And maybe a whiteline rear bar, funny how it's got so much work done but no rear bar...
Anyway, I know it's sounds odd but I like my Auto... no drama, easy as and quite goey if you plant it..
needs a rear bar real bad and I might dro[p the front, I like the way you can point and shoot with a low snout...
I should have had one of these cars before, they really are great fun... and so cheap to buy, and run as well...:)
Sorry long post...
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Feel free to jump onto Camcrew, I haven't got a problem there, but Camcrew's quite a close-knitted group - some of them I even trust with my life, and are good mates (was just as Davey's place for the weekend, as the crew were playin skirmish). The main rule on Camcrew is that if you have a problem with someone, you'd let Mods and Admin know (Ie. Myself also) and we'd deal with the situation, rather than taking it into your own hands... if that helps.
Heaps of Camrys = much knowledge I bet :)
Well thanks guys real decent of you all...
Cammies are great cars, and I love to mix with ppl know more than I do...
had a Cressida once, that 7MGE motor / box / rear drive was a great car as well...
I like to take a standard unit and mod / re-build the way I like...
Say a (gen 3, nice size) Tourer 5 speed / later model v6 motor Kw+ and no roll susp with tint & s/roof plus sound..:)
So you gys can be a big help...
not really into spending big bucks on newer cars these days...
that's just me...
Thanks for the welcome..
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Has anyone done this...
It's not that I'm all that short...
The Cruiser's got height adjustment, just no enough up, on low a 7 foot driver could fit in..
went for a 250k run to Syn n back y/day and noticed I was flipping the visor down to block out all the sky...
so I raised seat with a flat cushion to try it out, and the whole thing felt heaps better..:)
more road vision, stearing wheel felt lower & better without blocking the guages, and all that sky was gone...
They have heaps of head room, so I'm gona look at putting say 25mm spacers under the mounts...
I may have to use new hardened bolts, should be pretty simple...
my daughter's cammy omg... she has the back allmost flat,
must be a young person cool thing, go figure.
5 speed pull that hard she has to hold on tight with arms straight out...
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Need some advice - have just inherited a 1997 Vienta v6 from my late father. He used to change the oil and filter every six months, car has only travelled 45,000kms. I drive the car to work two days a week and is not likely to travel more than 5,000km this year but I don't want to sell it. The car is very sluggish, I was told to use high octane petrol and Nulon additives to help. The car has not been serviced thoroughly for years, it is immaculate but I fear a thorough service will cost an arm and a leg. Any suggestions?
Allways sad to hear a fathers passing, his car and service habits speak well of him...
How fortunate you are to keep his memory so alive by tacking over care of his much loved car...
Toyota is so advanced, there is not much to do to keep it in good order... power should be quite strong.
Importantly, oil and filter were in good hands, change every 10K klm or less, say 12mnths..
Air filter is important, & very easy for u to change... get a genuine unit.
Spark plugs probably don't 'need' changing... but why not freshen them up with newies... post a how to 4 good advise.
Fuel filters... Again post for advice... I never changed on your model :)
If these couple easy things don't help, post again,
now they have been done we can move to having your O2 sensor checked, cheap and easy... it may be sluggish.
And have your 'codes' read at the same time... will indicate some existing prob, not immediatly obvious.
Both the above checks can be got for free by mechanics with the equipment, just by asking them.
Nulon is a good internal component protection and anti friction measure
and the different fuels will not make much diff to performance...
but cars do need plenty of air, and good spark, and good engine management...
After that we're looking at 'draging' disc pads, half flat tyres, or a boot full of bricks, ( unlikely) but weight is not wanted.
Do what you can yourself, we will help you, learn your dads car... it's all pretty easy.
Let us know how you go... cheers.
Others that know more than me should chime in with advice...
it's a good project.
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Yes its a good way to pick up a bargain I did my sons 94 wagon (blown head gasket and slipped in reverse slightly)that way but I put in a motor and trans 95.000klms in his car as the original wasnt serviced properly anyway ( I usally drain the diff in these cars and that tells me straight away also if no coolant.When buying a motor , the motor has to still be in the car and I make sure its got toyota coolant in it if not I wont buy it, and a good look around to see if the car has been properly serviced as far as I was concerned. I recenltly picked up a 95 wagon gsx with a blown head gasket its done 230.00 klms no coolant .I bought a 96 model car with a rear quarter pushed in with 115.00klms I am going to put that motor and trans in the wagon as it was serviced properly at toyota it belonged to a older guy from new so if you know any one that wants any parts I have a complete car with no dents not one mark in the front and three dentless doors, Drivers side rear door was slightly damaged , perfect inside as well csi trim. The car was parked on the street at his daughters home and some drunk hit the rear quarter and hit the RH rear wheel thats where all the damage is . The dog leg at the rear guard hit the rear drivers door slightly fixable
HaydnG
absolutely and thanks for the offer of free parts... :)
what are are you from?...I need both near side (passenger) doors... you haven't got a spray painter in the system have you, mines white...or I could paint them myself, but not really set up to go, but hey it wouldn't take much...
Your advice on picking engines is very good, and strategy of buying damaged and then swapping / fix to value add is also spot on...
it's great to 'build' your own car and use your skills, I'm a bit the same way & toyota seem so easy to work on...
You're strong on the ome coolant, is that to be carefull and tells a story about the service history
or is it better than the generic stuff, and how can u tell just by looking...
Every dollar is worth a dollar, nothing clever about spending money, any clown can do that...
and the shopkeeper will never give it back...
From what I understand, you can unbolt the front sub chassis and drop the whole unit out...
lift the body off the the brive unit intact by just releasing a few bolts / shafts and connections...
if you got the head room or a hoist...
Boy would I love to have a hoist in my garage...
These drunks are sure a pest, pity our young get hooked on the poison... give me normal anyday.
Anyway, great to hear the way u go about it...
please keep us informed, well done...
joking about the 'free'..
Also all things being equal how is the fuel consumption compared to the auto 2.2 litre camry of the same generation and how much should I expect from a full tank.
more power
in Camry Club
Posted
do they really weigh that much...omg
how much does gen3 v6 weigh, my guess about 1450kg... 0 -100 say 8.5secs does that sound right...
thanks...