Gibbo

do they really weigh that much...omg how much does gen3 v6 weigh, my guess about 1450kg... 0 -100 say 8.5secs does that sound right... thanks...

Enjoyed your notes... group cosiousness has a lot to do with how ppl act old habits die hard... ford etc... Toyota is an outcome of GEMBA KAYZAN... it is a design philosopy, google it for info it can change your life if you want to grow fast... and this is the MAGIC you feel in the Camry... and why Toyota is king...

The boys are right... my 2 cnts... learn to use all that you got... don't be afraid open it up, foot hard to the floor... and leave it there till you reach your cruise speed, lift foot. learn to use the full accelerator... all the simple mods are just nickles & dimes the super/ turbo thing is just mental chewing gum, unless your mental... if that still doesn't do it... not enough torque, off the lights, because speed is out these days just sell the car and buy a v6... seriously if u not sure... go to any car yard & test drive one... the economy is about the same.. if your in love with your car... woun't sell it... just get over it and sell it anyway... it's mostly a mental thing, wait a while, get used to the car... respect it's finner features, learn to squeeze every drop & just relax... power is pretty much overrated anyway... if you are in desperate need and becoming must have... just buy a turbo car...

Yeah temp on the dash is normal no dramas there. How do you rest the ECU? give me a commo or falcon i can do it but as i said new to the toyotas but learning slowly but surely. ecu re-set procedure is the same as u know how on commo... they all work the same way and will re-learn any variation to circumstance over time anyway... but a re-set will not fix your fan allways on prob... that will be a faulty sensor sending power to the relay or fan motor deffinetely not POD related... or from sucking some warm air... and that can be confirmed for free, by putting the original filter back...say 10 mins max. ok cheers if that was the case if i either took the relay out or disconnected the sensor would that give me the defenate answer? also the fan is a hydrolic 1 (however thats spelt) so does that run on some sort of vavle controlled by like an actuator or?? just a thought caise any electric fan pull out relay fan stops so just wondering if thats the same case with these. ok you are right... I presumed your fan was electric sorry I don't know what triggers the hydraulic fan drive... others may know... but I still very much doubt it will be pod related... with engine warmed up... stop then feel with hand your radiator core it should be uniformly warm... a cold area indicates blocked radiator tubes... this will result in fan running , I had that same experience.

Yeah lets all make heaps of smoke, maybe get some old tyres, pile them up and burn them... we don't give a rats about the ppl waving their little pinky, we just do what we like... after all, it's our stupid car and we can just do whatever we want... after all, can u imagine how famous we will be, in our own little mind, and our dumb**** mates will love it hey that's cool, we were all young & dumb once, not... tyre smoke is sooo smart, the chicks love it. how about slaming the thing into reverse while driving forward, why not it's my car & I don't care what u think...

oh ok... thanks mm & others... seems it's just not a busy place... but i noticed many do read posts, seemed odd... read but not join in. must just be the way it is... camcrew pick up the slack anyway... thanks replys.

Why is it same one or two people post but many readers log on... is there any life out there... I don't care, but why, what is the reason?? allthough i notice some isolated topics draw attention... are readers only interested in petrol consumption... is it a money matters thing?? if so, then we can frame posts around popular topics, and have more ppl join in... with Toyota ownership just a common side issue... eg: I know how you can have free rego, anyone interested?? I will post a response to this my querie later.

no problem just disconect battery for say 10-30 mins before putting terminals back on battery join them together for a minute to drain off residual power ... dought very much will solve your prob... what is the status on your miss, have you tried anything we suggested to u...? did u look at the revving motor in darkness? was it the dizzy cap, leads or a bad plug.... your ball..

Yeah temp on the dash is normal no dramas there. How do you rest the ECU? give me a commo or falcon i can do it but as i said new to the toyotas but learning slowly but surely. ecu re-set procedure is the same as u know how on commo... they all work the same way and will re-learn any variation to circumstance over time anyway... but a re-set will not fix your fan allways on prob... that will be a faulty sensor sending power to the relay or fan motor deffinetely not POD related... or from sucking some warm air... and that can be confirmed for free, by putting the original filter back...say 10 mins max.

I drive the same, they are a great package and great value... 3-4k is about right... (I paid 1.5K perfect condition) head gasket, just don't worry at all... change out the radiator hoses, (if needed) and watch your temp... when it gets hot stop, new gaskets are easy to fix and it's good for another 200K... simple. consumption: fill the tank, after 3-400 K re-fill and see how many ltrs into the milage... every driver & car is different. I get about 10lts/100k... I reckon they sway about like an old boat... for less than 200$ new sports rear sway bar... and that's it...enjoy.

I'd be surprised if the new air filter was the cause for fan staying on... replacing the original filter will quickly eliminate the pod as the cause, for free..

Allways sad to hear a fathers passing, his car and service habits speak well of him... How fortunate you are to keep his memory so alive by tacking over care of his much loved car... Toyota is so advanced, there is not much to do to keep it in good order... power should be quite strong. Importantly, oil and filter were in good hands, change every 10K klm or less, say 12mnths.. Air filter is important, & very easy for u to change... get a genuine unit. Spark plugs probably don't 'need' changing... but why not freshen them up with newies... post a how to 4 good advise. Fuel filters... Again post for advice... I never changed on your model :) If these couple easy things don't help, post again, now they have been done we can move to having your O2 sensor checked, cheap and easy... it may be sluggish. And have your 'codes' read at the same time... will indicate some existing prob, not immediatly obvious. Both the above checks can be got for free by mechanics with the equipment, just by asking them. Nulon is a good internal component protection and anti friction measure and the different fuels will not make much diff to performance... but cars do need plenty of air, and good spark, and good engine management... After that we're looking at 'draging' disc pads, half flat tyres, or a boot full of bricks, ( unlikely) but weight is not wanted. Do what you can yourself, we will help you, learn your dads car... it's all pretty easy. Let us know how you go... cheers. Others that know more than me should chime in with advice... it's a good project. Grab a K&N high flow air filter for it they are a bit exy but it'll be the only one you will ever need to buy for that car as they are non disposable. Best thing to do for any car is clean out the intake to gain econemy and power. After that just normal service with good quality parts and product and the car should well last you for years to come. Also highoctane petrol will help to make the car have a bit more kick to it and aslo better econemy in my experience however the change will take a little while as the ecu has to adjust itself to do this. Hope this helps Just did an oil & filter change myself, used Nulon Oil Flush first, then Castrol GTX3 oil. Added a Nulon oil treatment, Nulon Octane Boost and a K&N air filter. It has had a dramatic effect on performance and smoothness. Many thanks for the advice on the K&N, well worth the extra money. Will only be using premium unleaded from now on. The mechanic my father used had put some sort of gel on the sump plug to protect it. It was easy to peel off with a screwdriver and has left the plug in pristine condition. I went to an AutoPro shop to see if they had something similar and they said it was the first time they had heard of someone doing that to a sump plug. I think it is a great idea but am not sure what the mechanic used (he has since retired). Any ideas? Oils wount make it go all that much better, oil is oil is oil How dirty was the old filter, was it brown or full of dust, did u bang it upside down to see what come out... because all u done so far is replace the a/filter... to account for al the extra gooo. and some fuel additve but not injection cleaner... these 3vz are easy to please. Well his old filter may well have been fine but replacing it with a high flow filter will always make a car more responsive. His injectors probably wouldn't need a clean either cause his car has only done 45 anyway, however the Nulon fuel additive I use when I can be bothered cleans injectors as well as raising RON so hopefully the product he got does that as well. The Nulon oil treatment (exy stuff) is gold, they reckon they drove a Holden for over 1000 ks with no oil just there product and was all sweet. It's a bit pricey but well worth it, makes an engine run like new. So yeah 3VZ and 1MZ are really easy to please, you just have to take care of them. Real time field test situation re: a/filters...condition of old vs new high flow. Absolut i agree Bjcak08 has done a really really top job. with great results... car is in good hands.

Allways sad to hear a fathers passing, his car and service habits speak well of him... How fortunate you are to keep his memory so alive by tacking over care of his much loved car... Toyota is so advanced, there is not much to do to keep it in good order... power should be quite strong. Importantly, oil and filter were in good hands, change every 10K klm or less, say 12mnths.. Air filter is important, & very easy for u to change... get a genuine unit. Spark plugs probably don't 'need' changing... but why not freshen them up with newies... post a how to 4 good advise. Fuel filters... Again post for advice... I never changed on your model :) If these couple easy things don't help, post again, now they have been done we can move to having your O2 sensor checked, cheap and easy... it may be sluggish. And have your 'codes' read at the same time... will indicate some existing prob, not immediatly obvious. Both the above checks can be got for free by mechanics with the equipment, just by asking them. Nulon is a good internal component protection and anti friction measure and the different fuels will not make much diff to performance... but cars do need plenty of air, and good spark, and good engine management... After that we're looking at 'draging' disc pads, half flat tyres, or a boot full of bricks, ( unlikely) but weight is not wanted. Do what you can yourself, we will help you, learn your dads car... it's all pretty easy. Let us know how you go... cheers. Others that know more than me should chime in with advice... it's a good project. Grab a K&N high flow air filter for it they are a bit exy but it'll be the only one you will ever need to buy for that car as they are non disposable. Best thing to do for any car is clean out the intake to gain econemy and power. After that just normal service with good quality parts and product and the car should well last you for years to come. Also highoctane petrol will help to make the car have a bit more kick to it and aslo better econemy in my experience however the change will take a little while as the ecu has to adjust itself to do this. Hope this helps Just did an oil & filter change myself, used Nulon Oil Flush first, then Castrol GTX3 oil. Added a Nulon oil treatment, Nulon Octane Boost and a K&N air filter. It has had a dramatic effect on performance and smoothness. Many thanks for the advice on the K&N, well worth the extra money. Will only be using premium unleaded from now on. The mechanic my father used had put some sort of gel on the sump plug to protect it. It was easy to peel off with a screwdriver and has left the plug in pristine condition. I went to an AutoPro shop to see if they had something similar and they said it was the first time they had heard of someone doing that to a sump plug. I think it is a great idea but am not sure what the mechanic used (he has since retired). Any ideas? Oils wount make it go all that much better, oil is oil is oil How dirty was the old filter, was it brown or full of dust, did u bang it upside down to see what come out... because all u done so far is replace the a/filter... to account for al the extra gooo. and some fuel additve but not injection cleaner... these 3vz are easy to please.

I spoke with whiteline today, they will deliver 18mm as u say, so easy... got in touch with: Gibbo Double Strength Sway Bars. Two originals welded together.. well under $100 new. Neoprene bushes included. Theoretical outcome: much stiffer than single bar... probably too stiff and likely to lift inside wheel under exreme cornering. possible upgrade of sway bars struts required for Heavey Touring. Road test to follow.

Had all tyres balanced, recently (500Klm ) there was some small rocking movement in the s/ wheel at slow speed... So todday, we spun them again on the balancer and a couple were slightly out of round... New set of Pirelli... huge difference, no s/wheel movement at all and niiice on the road. But I notice the car does 'lurch' on corners and roundabouts... From the rear it feels... Just doing some research on rear bars... anyone with experience, welcome to comment..thanks.