jacko16

On 9/28/2022 at 2:42 PM, campbeam said:

U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc 1.13 MB · 27 downloads

  On page 12 of the attached document, there is mention of adding another 200ml of ATF.

I have been using aftermarket ATF in my Aurion for about 6 years. Penrite ATF LV meets the Toyota WS specification. I have been using this ATF for at least 3 years and intend to keep doing so.

Remember that it is your vehicle and you make the final decision. It is more convenient for me to go to my local SuperCheap Auto or Repco than to the Spare Parts Dept of the nearest Toyota dealership.

2 good thanks.

On 10/17/2020 at 4:59 PM, Tony Prodigy said:

G'day Gents,

I finally stopped procrastinating and did the auto transmission service today. This service consisted of 3 parts. 

Current Odometer reading 123,050 Klm. Original factory fill for transmission.

1. Pan drain and replacement of filter.

2. Full System Fluid flush.

3. Fluid Level Adjustment.

Ok, so here we go:

1. PAN DRAIN AND REPLACEMENT OF FILTER

Had to jack the car up on all fours to get the level required. This took some time but was able to get it nice and level. Being level gives more accuracy when doing the fluid level adjustment as you know, so I took my time here and got it pretty close. Be sure to not only check the longitudinal balance, but also the lateral balance too. You don't want the car to be dipping to any one side. Nice and level everywhere.

Shop lifts make this so much easier as the car lifter is already installed on level ground, but for us who don't have that luxury, we must do it with a trolley jack and adjustable axle stands. I prefer the threaded adjustable axle stands for this purpose. If you don't have such stands, then you can just use some packing at the base of the stand as required to achieve the desired result.

After this I proceeded to drain the pan before undoing all the pan bolts to further drain the residual fluid. The fluid was darkish but by no means bad like the brown sauce we're used to seeing. It still had a tinge of redness to it but more of a purple/red colour. Definitely due for replacement though. 

 This was the total amount of fluid from pan drain. Approximately 2.6 Lt.

 

That pesky bolt we've discussed was quite easy to remove as I had just the right tool for this. I was able to use the socket end of this Snap-On 10mm and was able to get just enough clearance to rotate it out. 

With the pan out, I was pleasantly surprised to see how clean the fluid actually looked for never having been serviced. The magnets did their job well and collected the fine material too. 

The valve body and innards were nice and clean, and you can still see the translucent nature of the old fluid clearly. This car has never been thrashed or driven harshly or towed with, so it was expected the fluid wouldn't be anything close to brown. The inside of the original filter also looked very clean. I was tempted to re use it too. It's a Denso filter and it looks to be of high quality.

  

 

 

      

Gave the pan and magnets a thorough clean until shiny new and fitted new pan gasket and proceeded to install. Straw was screwed back into place during this time.

After installing new filter and pan, torqued everything up and filled with the amount that was initially removed, which was 2.6 Lt plus an additional litre to commence the flushing procedure.

 

2. Full System Fluid flush.

 

I searched out this method because I wanted to purge as much of the WS fluid in there and have mostly the new Penrite LV. It took several flushes to get the required result, which was clear red fluid. I removed the return line from the radiator and attached a clear hose to enable the dirty fluid to collect in the clear jug. I would start the car momentarily  and watch the old fluid pump itself into the jug. When it got to around 1 Lt, I shut the engine off and repeated the process. I ended up doing six flushes, each time adding a litre or more in. To demonstrate the colour change from old fluid to new fluid, I dipped a piece of paper into each sample collected from each flush. By this stage I had used up nearly 3 containers of fluid.

I also saved 200 ML for the final top up as per the update in the service bulletin. You thought I was going to forget this hey Ash ? LOL..

 

  

This was after the 6th flush and the results speak for themselves.

Handy "Tom Thumb" fluid transfer bottle. These are a high quality item and will serve you well when you need to add fluid without making a mess. I purchased half a dozen of these a while back and I assign one of each to a specific fluid type so no cleaning required between use.

Hook design dispensing tip allows the tip to remain in place whilst pumping the fluid through. Neat touch I thought.

 

These below are the fluid samples taken at each flush. I used a different jug for each sample collected so no cross contamination of colours.

This one has all six plus a "control" sample from new fluid straight out of the Penrite Container.

You can clearly see the change after the fourth flush. I decided I'd keep going until I used up the contents of the 3rd container for best results.

Happy with this I fitted the return line back to the radiator and proceed to do the final step. Fluid Adjustment.

3. Fluid Level Adjustment.

So now it was time to commence the fluid level adjustment and after having topped up the transmission for the final time, I hooked up my Autel Maxysis and dialled into the transmission live data to monitor the transmission fluid  temperature. The given target is somewhere between 40-45 degrees C. I opted for 42.5 degrees.

I started the engine and waited for everything to warm up. During this time I cycled the fluid by going through the gears (with foot on the brake). I went from P to D back and fourth a few times to enable the fluid to cycle itself thoroughly.

As soon as it hit 42.5 I went under and loosened off the drain bolt, and with engine running, collected the overflow until it slowed to a trickle as specified. Torqued up the drain bolt and then I added the extra 200ml as per the bulletin. 

Cleaned up the area, put tools away, re assembled the various bits on the car, removed off the axle stands, washed up and took it for a drive. I decided to go for a drive to the local garage, that way I could also check tyre pressures too.. 

The car drove magnificent. Gear changes still smooth, both on the up shifts and downshifts and nothing unusual.

Just happy it's done now. I think I'll just do a pan drain on an annual basis from now on.

Need new tyres soon....

Thank you for reading my report guys. Hope you all liked it.

Thanks for this, good job.

Do you still have the Toyota bulletin showing to add 200ml? Please and also haw save is it to user after market ATF.

Thanks.

IMG_8533.MOV

This is the noise.

New belt and all the pulleys test ok. 

On 6/27/2019 at 8:10 AM, jacko16 said:

Hi all.

On My 2010 Toyota Aurion has a shaking belt tensioner assy.

Any hlep?

Hi all.

On My 2010 Toyota Aurion has a shaking belt tensioner assy.

Any hlep?

On 6/17/2019 at 8:49 PM, AurionX2 said:

Yeah, sounds like a bearing, removing the belt takes the pressure off the pulley.

Thanks.

On 6/17/2019 at 5:46 PM, LordBug said:

Could be the tensioner pulley. Maybe take the belt off and give that pulley a wriggle and turn it a bit by hand, if there's play then it definitely needs to be replaced.
Hopefully it's that and not a different bearing.

 

Ok Thanks will check.

Hi there,

In my 2010 Aurion and after a day a rattle appeared from the engine under load at idle (ie in R or D sitting stationery or with A/C on). 

The Car have only 50,000.K

I have changed the Blet and the Alternator.

This noise is coming from the belt and pulley.

If I remove the belt its ok. No Noise.

Any Help?

Thanks

Engine hot or cold noise is still there when engine is under load. At Hi RPM there is no noise.

Thanks

I have 2 of this Toyota Aurions, GSV40. 

One is 2007 and the other is 2010.

The 2007 idle timing is about 15deg and the 2010 is about 11deg.

When I drive the 2007 one I can has a quick pick-up.

The 2010 flees slow.

Thanks

Hi I have Toyota Aurion 2010 GSV40.

Is there any way I can Advance the ignition timing?

I have Techstreem.

Thanks

Hi just check, when you put the car on reverse will the LCD change?

there can be 2 things to check, is it a power problem or a video fault.

If you put the car on reverse and the LCD is not changing then you are not getting switching from the revering gear switch.

Also just wanted to know if it picks up all the local Aust radio?

and did you had to bye a new GPS sim For Australia? Or it came with one?

thanks

Just to let you know I did my car some time a go and the top bearings have to be changed every time you remove them. 

Thanks

Yes that is correct.

you can get King Springs from Repco

get the bump stoppers from Toyota.

you have to mark and also take pictures of the top plate and the springs and after the job is over get a full wheel allimemt.

but mark every thing befor you start to take any thing out.

also note The 2 big Camber bolts are vert tight.

I have a 2007 Pesara and I changed the front struts, the top bearings and springs and bump protectors so did the whole lot. So if you are opening it to change the struts, you're best to do the whole lot. 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-AURION-Front-Shock-Absorber-Strut-Bearing-/262126974142

Hi Steve

Toyota has to pay for the repaired. You have been looking after the full service of the car as per service manual and has all ways taken the car to Toyota for the service they have to look after you.

Hi all I have a Aurion and at about 60000K I did remove the Transition oil pan and changed the AF oil.

the oil looked ok but on the bottom of the pan there was a lot of mug, so I clean it and changed the filter and pan kit and new Toyota AT oil.

after doing this I also put a inline AT filter to the oil coler pipes.

Note befor I did the AT oil I did check with Toyota and they said never to change/service the AT.

You must ask Toyota to at lest pay of of the cost of a new AT.

Thanks

Is this happening every time when the English is cold?

Is the car parked on a hill with the engine facing up?

sounds more like a fuel problem.

Check the battery voltage at start and if it is low then it will not fire the spark plugs.

also check the engine oil level.

this is not a common fault on Aurion.

also if you have OBD 2 check the error code.

pls let us know how you go.

thanks

I have the same Mic problem in my 2010 toyota aurion presara, But I have a 2007 aurion presara and its good.

I have the same problem in my 2007 Aurion and from day one I had the dash mat, but still found the dash to be sticky. The car in mostly under cover away from Sun.

Not happy at all.

Did you try dynamat (sound insulation) inside the car. It can help a lot

I'm trying to put in new rear speakers, but i dont know how to remove the stock speakers without damaging something, can anyone please help me with what to do,

thanks

you have to remove the rear seats and the side covers. To get a good speakers that will fix ok use the eclipse 6x9.

I have a 2007 model Toyota Aurion Peseara and recently, I have noticed some yellow powder, mostly in one of the exhaust pipe. Pics attached. Just recently I had the car serviced form Toyota, and they have changed the air cleaner, oil and oil filter. But 2 months before, I have put some genuine Toyota injector cleanet into the fuel tank. I allways use Mobil 95 octane unleaded petrol. Never used e-10 fuel.

I have a Toyota Aurion Peseara,03/2007. The speedo is giving innacurate readings. For example, on my car GPS, it shows 100kmph, the speedo shows 92kmph. I checked with Toyota and they said they will have to change the instrument pannel to fix this problem. Has anyone elese come accross this problem?