57fritz

Any idea if the light output is better than OEM? I find my low beam is very poor, to the point that passengers will often ask if I have my lights on.

I have headlight protecters, would this affect light output?

I wonder if that is true? I was thinking of getting some, I also think that the high beam is not that great, but perhaps that is because of the height of the lights and less reflection off things on the side of the road? Did you get yours from toyota or aftermarket?

The Kluger has decent standard lights for low & highbeam. If you think they are bad, drive an X-trail. As suggested, invest in some blue light globes. Headlight protectors need to be regularly cleaned & even when clean, yes they will decrease the amount of light emitted.

Dont want to alarm anyone but we are having loads of trouble with Dunlop Grantrek tyres out in the country. I guess they see their fair share of pretty ordanary gravel roads but everyone with prado's or any other vehicle with them on arnt even getting 20,000km out of a set without them seperating or completly letting go. Just Thurdays I had a customer telling me all about the probelms he had with them and friday the council brought a rim in off a prado that had done 8000km and all there was was two side walls absolutly no middle tread section of tyre. Ill be getting Bridgestons D694 A/T next time. Coopers are also not much chop theses days, Goodyear Wrangler ATR's are very decent and take loads of punishment.

But Basically Id say theres such a shortage of Dunlop grandtrex cause either a) they suck so much they stopped making them to figure out were they were going wrong B) they sucked so much that everyone was replacing them so often with the OEM tyre on the millions of prados out here that they used em all up, or c) I cant think of a C.

Something also to note that, depends on the size of tyre alot of the Bridgestone D694 and D693 are made in Australa, New Zealand or Japan, however the bridgeston rep told me the other day that they are actually stopping making them in Australia. So I'm going to order me a full set soonish before they all go and store them till I need em. Good tyre. Currently I have GT Radials AT somethings (came with Kluger purchaced like 2 weeks ago) and they are ok, but they dont like gravel roads with loads of sharp rocks and stuff. they are looking a little bruised.

Bridgestone have shut down their Australian factory (in South Australia) late last year and also their production facility in New Zealand. Australia is in the wonderful position of not having a major tyre factory in the country. Grandtreks are mainly designed for on-road use. A sensible option from Toyota would be to allow the customer to specify what tyre they want, either country (A/T) or city, as Ford do with the Territory. I have used both Bridgestone & Goodyear A/T through work, either come highly recommended.

the vibration is normal, it would have been present in the car you test drove. Normal? On which scale of normal. I'd suggest if it had been present, it would have been discussed. I've test driven a few cars over the years and walked away from deals because they didn't feel right.

from my understanding... the Small vibration you are noticing is the torque converter under load while you are on the brake/ebrake. just about every automatic vehicle does this to some degree.Makes sense but the impression is that it isn't normal. The posters need to supply a little more detailed info.

these cars are so over tested its not funny. During development sure, it would be not every car that comes off the assembly line. Occasionally, things get missed or ignored.

if toyota deemed the small vibration in your 50k POS to be un satisfactory they would have rectified it. You have got to be kidding, are you a Toyota employee planted in this forum? Read some of the other threads about problems and lack of satisfactory resolution, usually at the dealer level. I know some people can be difficult to please but consider this, a motor vehicle is usually the 2nd most expensive thing the average person buys, the 1st is the family home. I don't care what some corporate person thinks, $40000+ is a lot of money and you want to be satisfied with your purchase.

i sense buyers remorse. if you are that unhappy, yes, sell the car. buy your korean cheapy, and be done with it.

Nothing like a constructive discussion

This is normal? <_< I think some of you need to get a grip. I had no such issue with my car, I had a couple of other issues but not this vibration. It could be that the pre-delivery was not done properly, if at all. They charge a fortune for it so make sure it done properly. Go back to the dealer and complain. If not satisfied, go and see your State's Dept of Fair Trading. Toyota had a reputation for excellence, over the last few years its not as good as it has been but is still better than most.

hi ive had my kxr 2w/d for over year have always averaged 11s on the display but just got car serviced now im constantly doing 13.2 any ideas ?

Same thing happened to me but I changed oil type as well, and put it down to that.

Just put new tyres on my KXR and it went from 10.3 to 11.3. Not quite sure why, maybe the oil-pipe? :P

This is why I love this forum, we share our experiences good / bad / indifferent and we all benefit from them. I have not yet booked in my car as it will be due for a 50K service. However, after my last experience where the dealer stuffed up the wheel alignment and then would not wear any responsibility I'll just get the pipe replaced and have my car serviced by a real mechanic.

Maintain the rage! B)

No they can't. Because:

I don't think so. I doubt retrospective infringement notice can stand much in court. There will be a serious judgement on the police officer and his memory. When a matter of IQ is put in court....... the matter will be dismissed.

Unless you think the police officer in the car has an IQ of 200. :P:

Maybe not in Victoria, in NSW they have up to 28 days to issue a ticket!

Just received a notice from Toyota today advising that early model Generation 2 Klugers built (no build date specified) sometimes develop a crack in an engine oil supply pipe on the left hand cylinder bank. It causes oil pressure drop and reading between the lines, a possible engine failure. The fix is free of charge. My car is 2007 build so if your own is of a similar age, be prepared for a letter. At least they are being proactive unlike other manufacturers. B)

We've tried a couple of Nokias including my 6500 Classic, as well as a new Samsung.

Haven't yet found one that works well with the Kluger bluetooth...

Toyota will reluctantly admit that the Stereo bluetooth for reasons unknown is not compatable with certain model phones. This topic has been extensively covered already, you just need to find the thread in the forum. I've had my stereo replaced with no chance in result. For some reason, most Dopod (HTC), Sony Erricson phones work fine but Nokia is hit & miss, as is Blackberry & ZTE (Telstra)

I've just bought a new Nokia 5730, so far okay but unsure about the tunnel effect on voice level.

Hi I have a 2009 Toyota Kluger that I want to put some wheels on, I would love to go with some 22" but I don't think this is a option due to the condition of the roads I drive on, so it is looking more like a 20"x9" with maby a +20 offset, I want to go as wide as I can with the wheels so if anyone has any advice it would really help.

I did a search and only found a couple of threads where people had put 22"s and it seems not many people put aftermarket wheels on Klugers, so their is not a lot of info on the subject so I was hoping someone of these forums has had some experience with putting larger wheels on late model Klugers or has any photos that they would like to share so I can get more of a idea what the different sizes will look like.

Thanks

Ari

While the 22" gives lots of 'bling', you comprimise comfort and you have a lot less rubber between the wheel & road. Unless you are metro only, I don't think its a great idea. You don't advise what your Kluger is ie: KXR with 17" or KXS / Grande with 19". There would be little difference or advantage between 19 & 20" wheeels, apart from appearance. Go through the forum because the one common thing is that Klugers seem to have a bit of a wheel alignment issue which only become apparent after about 25000kms (when the suspensions starts to settle down and loosen up a little), which may be made worse by bigger wheels. Could also compromise a warranty claim on suspension etc. Hasten slowly as the expression goes. Maybe look at the Highlander (American Kluger) forum in the US.

That doesn't sound right to me. If the temp is high in the cabin, the CC should recognise that and turn the A/C on.

If it doesn't then I'd speak to Toyota about it.

It will be interesting to hear if others have the same thing happening in their Klugers...

My manual A/C fan switch did some strange things the other day as well, going to full blast by itself on a couple of occasions. It was the 42 degree day in Sydney, whether that affected it I'm not sure. It will get a mention at my next service.

Hi everyone - I'm new to this site, and finding it really valuable.

Looking at a 2WD KX-R 5 seater - what do you reckon is an average price to pay for on-road?

Thanks

Depends where you live, which we have no idea of. In Sydney metro, you should be able to drive away $39900 or probably better. It pays to shop around a fair bit.

The e-mail mentioned to Dunlop is below

Guys,

My Gen 2 Kluger is in need of news tyres as I am running at the min tread markers as we speak.

I’ve got Grandtrek ST30 on at the moment as original equipment.

Kmart Albury Auto can’t get them so I said to Greg the store mgr to go for GrandTrek AT3’s, but he can’t get them either.

Can you try and source some product for the back order to Kmart Auto Albury.

Can you e-mail back a date that product will available and delivered to the tyre dealer.

As I really can’t wait too much longer than I have already.

Regards,

Garry ----------------------

Response

was

Hi Garry

Kindly call Beaurepaires on 13 23 81 or Goodyear Auto Care on 13 23 43 for the store closest to you with the size

for your below query.

Regards

WTF

I've e-mailed my reply to tell them, that was poor response and totally does not answer my question. If you don't respond properly another brand will choosen very soon.

I ordered end of last month, got a phonecall on Tuesday that the shipment has been delayed and maybe I'll get some on the 24/11. <_<

Mate, there are other threads in this forum that talk about fuel consumption. Driving styles, traffic, etc all combine to impact what you actually get. My driving is outer urban, metro main roads, freeways, highways & my overall average for 45000km has been 10.4. I would suggest an AWD would be a little thirstier because of the extra weight & running gear. The split is 50:50, if you can afford it (it was $5000 extra when I bought my car hence why I didn't) get it. B)

Cheers Fritz, I'm reading through all those threads you mentioned.

It's a pity all of the posters don't specify if they have a 4WD/AWD or 2WD/FWD model Kluger under their "Toyota Model". That would make things a bit easier to follow.

("FWD" initially confused me, I naively thought that stood for "Four Wheel Drive". What are the accepted descriptions that are supposed to be used for the 2 variants on the forums?)

Good question - if you look under the Avatar (picture) on the left with the user names, often they describe their vehicle in their. FWD = Front Wheel Drive, AWD = All Wheel Drive (which is what the Kluger is considered) & 4WD = the bush bashing 'real' off-roaders. Most of the thirstier cars mentioned appear to be AWDs in metropolitan areas. Remember that 11 litres per 100km is the overall average including both country & metro so don't be surprised at higher readings from those stuck in peak hour traffic. The type of fuel you use in my experience makes little difference, yes 98 will give you slightly better consumption but at 15cents per litre extra it is not worth it. E10 - jury is still out on that one but it would appear to use slightly more (my experience about 0.5litre per 100km). In NSW next year, we won't have much choice because the State is legislating that all standard unleaded will be the E10.

Thanks guys. Your info and all the other info on here is great.

I've been sitting here combing the forum for about 3 hours straight. Haven't even had lunch yet!

I especially read the 2WD vs AWD thread to try and justify the AWD decision in my own mind given the price difference. The boat is just on the wish-list, and the snow might be only bi-annual if we're lucky. My wife has a straightforward approach to this - "If we get something that big then we're getting 4WD".

One thing I notice is that in the official Toyota specs the fuel economy quoted is the same for 2WD & AWD KX-R models, yet in practice people on the forum seem to get better economy in the 2WD's.

Are Toyota being unrealistic quoting the same fuel economy figure for both models?

Mate, there are other threads in this forum that talk about fuel consumption. Driving styles, traffic, etc all combine to impact what you actually get. My driving is outer urban, metro main roads, freeways, highways & my overall average for 45000km has been 10.4. I would suggest an AWD would be a little thirstier because of the extra weight & running gear. The split is 50:50, if you can afford it (it was $5000 extra when I bought my car hence why I didn't) get it. B)

I bought a new KX-R 2WD 7 seater back in Nov. 07. Its been a great car, great fuel economy and reliable. IF I get another, I would get the KX-S for the leather & other bits.

I strongly suggest the following factory options:

- rubber floor mat for cargo area;

- carpet mats for front & rear (these fit very well and protect the carpet).

I do recommend the reverse parking sensors, with switch fitted so that you can turn it off while towing. Even with the camera, I find them very useful. I had the dealer fitted ones and have not had a problem.

Headlight protectors - don't know if you can get them after market.

Bonnet protector - might stop those annoying stone chips.

Nudge bar - personal choice, not necessary, same with driving lights but you probably won't need them in the metro area as the standard highbeam is pretty good.

DO NOT buy the weathershields as they are next to useless. The only time they come in handy is if you park it with the window down a centimetre.

DO NOT upgrade the stereo to the 6 stacker with bluetooth - GO aftermarket and get one that works. Worst $800 I spent.

DO keep a close eye on wheel alignment, especially around the 25000 mark as everything starts to loosen up. I had a bad experience with my Toyota dealer who managed to not fix the issue and scrubbed out a pair of tyres but then refused to accept responsibility.

The Kluger is a ripper car, you won't be disappointed.

Normal city driving in our Kluger AWD with my missus droping of kids etc ... we seem to average around 13.5L..

Will be going from Syd to gold coast near the end of year so interested what results we achieve ..I' m thinking around 11L ?

On longer trips form Brisbane to either the Sunshine or Gold Coasts I am able to average 9-10L/100km, and I've seen others post some consumptions below this for trips similar to yours.

Anyone found the cruising speed sweet spot for the Kluger which gives the optimum fuel consumption?

An indicated 110 on the speedo is actually about 102, Blue Mtns out to Dubbo the reading was 8.8l / 100km B)

my Question/s - has anybody had the same experience? is there some adjustment i can make?

cheers

I have just purchased a KX-S which arrived on Friday. I had the same problem. An employee noticed the first call that I made back to the office. He said it was hard to hear me and my voice was distorted.

In my previous car I had a motorola car kit installed with a seperate mic and speaker. I have a Nokia N95.

After checking forums on the weekend I think I have found the solution.

During a phone call turn the volume adjust knob up. You will now notice the volume max is only 14 - not 60 as with the radio/CD playback.

This should fix the problem - I tested the adjustment with the same employee and he said the incoming call from my KX-S is now much clearer than before. My voice was now louder and no longer distorted. :D

I also noticed on page 25 of the manual there is a section called 'setting the volume' which is in the chapter on hands-free operation. It just isn't very clear.

The manual also says you can adjust the volume of the ringtone in the same way - adjust it while it is ringing.

Let me know if this works for you?

Been there, done that but unfortunately little difference. If the call is made when stationary, its not too bad but then that defeats the whole purpose of why I bought that unit. Let me know if it has improved the quality of your call while driving. Unfortunately, I think it has more to do with my phone as well Nokia 6119Nav which will be replaced shortly.

Yaaaaaa...

I recon the city driving give you the high reading..

in city driving (driving around melbourne CBD)...i also received the reading of 14-15L. and i have been using shell v-power for about 1 year...

in urban/city driving, my reading will be between 11-12L/100km.

Well as for tyre pressure... i'm currently running at 32 front and 28 rear, because i'm not carrying any passenger.

I've try putting the pressure up to 38psi in all four tyres. and did only improve a tinny bit, less and 1/2L different per 100km.

BUT the car will be supper bumpyyyyy... you will notice every tinny bumps on the road.. even a tiny rock..

and it's good dam unconfitable...

So if you want the car to drive like a luxury car. try putting the pressure done to 30psi and FEEL THE DIFFERNET.

Try on a speed hump and enjoy the softness of going over it..

cheeeeeeeersssssssssssssssssssss

Tony..

PS... Just changed my air filter, and the air filter make a HUGE differnet in fuell comsumption.......so if you havn't done so...

please please change it and let me know the different...........

Tony, what sort of air filter are you now using?

Fuel consumption - I have FWD KXR that does main suburban driving and average 10.3l/100 km. Tyre pressure 35psi all round. If my wife drives, it goes up to about 12.

I also noticed that if one of our phones is connected to the Bluetooth, then the other one will not connect - even if the previously connected phone is not present!

What I mean is:

1. I connect my phone to the Bluetooth and use while I'm driving it
   
2. My phone disconnects when I get home and get out
   
3. Wife gets in with her phone (which is already registered in the car)
   
4. Her phone does not connect - she has to go through the whole registration again!
   

Both of our phones are set to automatically connect. Have tried selecting the other phone from the Bluetooth menu but it is never able to connect.

Has anyone else noticed similar issues?

To be blunt, the FujitsuTen product that Toyota sell is very poor. :( The bluetooth issue has been done elsewhere in the forum, scroll through a couple of pages and you'll find it. It seems to be that you'll either get a good unit or a lemon and Toyota are not overly interested in fixing it. The official explanation is that certain models & makes of phone do not work well with the system. I have tried Nokia (6230i, 6310i, 6110 Nav), Blackberry, ZTE - they all sound like you are at the far end of tunnel, even worse when driving. Sony Ericssen phones work ok. The unit is not intuitive and is like many portable bluetooth units, you have to disconnect the last registered unit for it to search for another.

Hi all

I am looking at getting an AWD grande (second hand) and there isn't one i that i have driven that doesn't have this rattle. Some just rattle constantly.....others only rattle over bumpy roads. I am extremely disappointed as i really do like the cars but its a shame Toyota have this issue with them.

For a manufacturer who has claims to such great build quality this is an embarrassment. Rattles may seem like trivial issues but i can assure you they aren't. They are annoying and most frustrating and reflect poor quality controls, something Toyota had claimed to have boosted when production of the Kluger commenced.

I have a 10k commodore that is 8 years old and it doesn't rattle. For the money one is outlaying for the Kluger it shouldn't have a gremlin like this in it.

Some of these rattle its seems like the dash is flexing of rubbing against the chassis. Regardless i will continue with persuing my Kluger in the hope of finding one for the right money and if a rattle is evident i guess i will have to drive a dealer insane over it.

Can anyone advise if they have had a successful fix to their rattle and which dealer resolved it? i am in Sydney.

Thanks all

Penrith Toyota fixed my rattles, depends whether your car still has warranty etc. If you buy from a Toyota dealer or any other dealer, insist it is repaired before you buy / hand over your money.

king spring????????????

Be careful of the new rules governing the raising of vehicle suspension. Rather than raising the suspension, why not think about fitting 31 inch wheels (4WD wheels) which would do the job.

Fuel Doctor is very good especially if you get a suspect tank of fuel. Also the Toyota brand of injector cleaner is very good from what I have heard.

Otherwise just use a tank of premium fuel once a month as they have the extra additives and cleaners.

Guys, guys, just put a tankful of 98 premium unleaded through every 6th tank or so to do the same job. Cleaning injectors after 20Ks is bull**** unless you are out in the scrub using poor quality fuel.

mines a KXR

and the horrible rattle comes from directly above the reverse camera display.

anybody have this same rattle??

Yep, mine is a KXR 07 model. Same place plus over the instrument cowling. Repaired by the dealer, the dash is so big the plastic clips occasionally break. Hassle the dealer, it was not a problem at Penrith Toyota.

mines a KXR

and the horrible rattle comes from directly above the reverse camera display.

anybody have this same rattle??

Yep - my car is a '07 KXR, the rattle started around 18K directly over the camera screen and also near the instrument cowling. Fixed by the dealer without any drama, advised that there are plastic clips which hold the dash up broke. Don't put up with it, it will drive you crazy and spoil the ownership experience. B)

It is my understanding that the Gen 1 Kluger with the AWD were rated at 13.5l per 100km. Most modern gearboxes have fuzzy logic built into them which remembers the driving style of the owner. If your car was previously owned by somebody driving in stop start traffic and that person was a hard driver, that's what the gearbox remembers. That's my experience from my organisation's fleet of cars. I don't know if the fuzzy logic memory can be reset or not.

Take it to a good mechanic for a proper tune-up, make sure that the sparkplugs get replaced if its got more than 80K on the speedo and have the airfilter replaced. You would be surprised what a difference straight forward things like that can make. Hope this helps.