RICE RACING

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So why would the original setup have had so much scope for improvement? People that design cars are [generally] not dumb, so it must have been a concious design choice. Is there any great increase in induction noise?

Further to my point putting some numbers to it:

You can see the command from the ECU. With a TARGET LAMBDA value which in reality when I tested it was nothing like this, again my idea on this is to counter the effect of needing to cover off up to 20% ethanol in the fuel is not able to be done in a closed loop strategy so the engineers need to factor in the 'leaning out' caused by this with a target AFR to cover all cases of not only the fuel Hydro Carbon ratio but also the production spread of the AFM main load input.

Here is the data straight off the ECU.

So again with proper analysis of all this and strategies you can work around this an optimize the set up, I did this as mentioned and by running 10% ethanol content fuel, ironically the cheapest **** fuel has the right octane for this 1GR-FE as well as the small trimming of the actual delivered AFR at full load, with more than safe enough fueling to counter high temps high load running etc.

The good aspect of running the VBOX system is industry leading true speed trace, and positional accuracy, you can glean all kinds of pertinent 'information' one such action is the 'changing of gear' actually release of clutch and engagement of other clutches in the automatic gear box. This is shown as in instant command by the PCM to control solenoids in the trans body, but the VBOX shows it takes around 0.125 seconds for this action to take place physically as showing in acceleration. The ECU does this NOT by throttling the engine to reduce load BUT by drowning the engine in fuel and retarding the spark timing (again see ECU commands) this is reflected in the actual measure 9.6:1 AFR as measured!........ you can see the normal timing and fuel is reinstated when the engine speed matches the next gear road speed, during that transition phase though power (inertia) in the rotating assembly is transferred through the torque convertor and drive shaft to the wheels (see power and acceleration spike) this phase on a 1st to 2nd shift lasts around 0.450 seconds, upon which time normal 'power' is resumed to the drive train.

Pics below of what I typed:

clutch (gear) swap in box start

process end

FYI
http://performancedrive.com.au/2014-toyota-fj-cruiser-review-video-0704/
Timed 0-100kmh in 8.2seconds (VBOX)

Mine does 7.077 to 7.093 seconds on a std temp and pressure day, (4 tests in a row actually), and has a best time of 6.85 seconds
Stock standard after run in I recorded ~8.81 seconds with wheel spin on take wet take off (without that would have been ~8.2 second range), but did not care to test that further than the initial power reference run, since many others had done so and it was not powerful enough for me.

postscript:

I improved the power of the 1GR-FE and the performance by around 20%, went from around 150rwkw average 'stock standard' to 180+rwkw (my power measures are factual and much lower than a dyno dynamics for comparisons) but of most importance the power increases and averages translate EXACTLY for percentage improvement to ACTUAL improvement (reduction in time taken and distance taken to do a testing incremental on the Race Logic VBOX3i.

A large part of the performance gain was derived solely from analysis of the air box restriction and reducing that, but also trimming the AFR from low 10's to more chemically correct mixture for power production, this was done simply by detailed mods to the AFM flow path alone, the changes stayed within short and long term fuel trims so no errors are caused but end result was 'tuned' AFR to correct values, the IGN timing through my IT2 data capture was o.k. for power so no mods needed to be done to timing.

In this case just detailed mods to the air box and fuel trimming less than $200 spend inc procurement of TRD air filter, did the job. Forget the $30,000 worth of VBOX testing gear to prove it all LOL. Unlike a dyno claim its validated with performance proof too!

:)

Following on from my note in setting up the MAP sensor tucked away in a thread I thought I would post up this little doco on AIR BOX modifications and how to test them out.

The idea was to improve the performance of my daily driver (FJ Crusier) without spending any real money for POD filters, intake kits etc etc.
My idea was to open up the air box's hidden power by reducing the pressure drop across the filter element, and the box and intake pipe itself. I have enclosed some pics of the hard mods done, as well as some of the actual testing showing the end results in measured pressure drops in the intake system (AIP air intake pipe pre throttle) and MAP (manifold pressure center of plenum).

*please for background have a read of my MAP sensor post* in the RX7 ecu thread steps to follow* this will describe some of the basics of MAP pressure and ambient effects and how to set up sensors and test them*

FIRST FJ Crusier air box mods

IT2 data, however AF is wrong off stock O2 sensors!, but shows what happens anyway on other aspects in the ECU

Stock performance test, NOTE this had 100millibar pressure drop

Interim power improvement stage 'green trace', unleashed a bit more from here :)

Testing of the reduction in air box restriction and showing just how good this mod is, in giving the engine as close to ambient air as is possible while still being well filtered

So I wanted to do a proper test to measure the pressure loss across an air filter at a high resolution, but also test the effect of an air box, K&N panel filter and induction pipe.

I have enclosed photos of the set up and results.
1GR-FE V6 (RR tuned engine) ~320bhp @ 5700rpm
K&N fitted air filter with modified Air Box (restrictions removed) and modified Air inlet pipe (resonators removed)

Parameters measured:
(units millibar for high resolution) 1 mb = 0.0145psi

*Ambient pressure

*MAP (center of inlet plenum)

*AIP (air inlet pipe just before throttle body) this is the measure the pressure drop caused by the K&N, Air Box, Air Inlet Pipe.

Other parameters shown,
*rpm (taken off COP coil-)
*acceleration IMU data, and GPS derived (zeroed)
*power
*ambient temperature
*TPS AP1 from the electronic throttle
*GPS height

SET UP:
pressure sensors (one to plenum) one to air inlet pipe pre throttle

another view

rpm pick up and inlet pipe pressure point

front view air box housing K&N with internal air flow mods :)

the don mega testing gear on board!

NOW for the results, these are an eye opener!
I improved the power output of this engine by spending F*CK ALL MONEY, all I did was trim the AFR by changing the air path to the AFM (not the subject of this thread but so to give context) the air box has some bigger openings in the bottom of it, and all restriction internally have been removed, also the restrictive paper filter was f*cked off, and replaced with a TRD/K&N oiled type cotton filter.

What is critical here is the have absolute pressures all calibrated and zeroed during the ANALysis, to see accurately what is happening out on the road

Image of all sensor pressure channels zeroed to ambient reference.

Pull in 2nd gear to ~100kmh, check pressure ref line just before start of test, note AIP and Ambient same pressure.

Detail screen shot with report of pressure difference to follow (first graphical representation, ref line at max power.

Report of pressures, and pressure drops to ambient reference between line points (averages taken)

Now you can see that not as much pressure is dropped across these parts are you might think. maximum of around -30mb = around -0.43psi
If you take a close look at the graph you can see actually that there are quite a few zones at the peak power point where the pressure in the plenum is actually greater than ambient (obviously a tuned point, dynamic effect). There is very little pressure loss across the air filter, air box, inlet pipe as shown by the AIP figures.

Also of note there is positive pressure in the air box when lifting off at 100kmh.

Hope this is of some interest to people.

Testing these things is not as easy as it may seem in real world as the pressure units are quite small, and as per my other threads you know that ambient pressure changes with as little as 0.5m difference in height let alone weather effects, so there needs to be a reference sensor to do this job correctly and all need to be corrected to that before conducting this type of analysis.

OH FWIW comparing stock std induction system without any RR mods there is over 1.4psi pressure drop!!!! around 100mb, and this on its own translates to 10% less power just due to that factor alone. less pressure in the plenum = less air molecules = less power :)

Oh and RUN 4 on the same test show above ambient average in MAP! with matching power increase, def NO RESTRICTION here worth worrying about, all done on OEM parts :) no need for a BS pod filter and alloy pipe POS from K&N or some other people

NOTE: The simple way to read the pressure drop column is to divide the millibar figure by 10 then this represents the percentage of power loss (read pressure loss) over the Ambient reference pressure, so you can see there is only 1% to 3% left on the table F*CK ALL!

To save you effort I put it in units most here can understand and simply highlight curve of MAP (in gauge PSI) to rpm other figures are grey'd out
NOTE: on stock set up this registered over 1.2 to 1.4psi drop

Custom graph (graphical form) to engine rpm, showing Ambient pressure dropping to altitude and air inlet pipe pressure and manifold absolute pressure. 2nd gear pull up a hill.

Super fuel economy on this motor too.

Last trip on highway + extended peak hour bumper to bumper in city returned 9.65lt/100km repeated this 2 weeks later with 9.80lt/100km in similar situation.

Nice work Peter. Just enjoyed reading through all 19 pages of that awesome truck!, oh and seiko watches. I've had the same Seiko divers automatic for 22 years and has seen the jewllers once for a clean, never misses a beat!

I'd love to buy an FJ, but I have 2 young kids. So after a few sleepless nights and reading through brochures, I've signed up for a new kluger. Was a great car to drive but I still haven't found any makers of performance parts yet, such as extractors.

I am glad you like the thread, lots of people contact me about it through various channels.

The FJ is just a beast! I love it, best car I have ever owned.... and its very fast too. Something no one expects from a true 4WD like this.

To give you an idea in transient acceleration (common zones) quoted in mags, 60kmh to 100kmh takes about 3.67 seconds, this is a couple of seconds faster than 'sport coupes' LOL

On a more hard core test like 90kmh to 135kmh it will do this increment in 6.24 seconds! (sort of what you do in real world to over take cars safely on highway/freeway)

By comparison a Spirit R Type A RX7 (280bhp and 1250kg car!) will do this in 5.06 seconds (all measured by me on a VBOX3i top end analysis machine.

These are the greatest engines on earth, very powerful and efficient, great set up's put lots of other cars to shame out in the real world.

The fuel economy of the kluger would make diesel owner green with envy, just returned from a week away in newcastle and the coast and the kluger averaged 9.8 L100 to nelsons bay from dubbo cruising along at 100kmh,double demerit points so taking niceand easy, then on the way home filled up at maitland with caltex vortex and averaged 8.4 L 100 cruising along at 115 to 120 kmh with a few full trottle overtaking moves, so very happy with the economy over the whole trip, this is the first time I have used caltex vortex, but very impressed with the economy with vortex , but the probadly still some ultimate still in the tank, so its a bit hard to tell if I was better economy with vortex, I hadnt used caltex fuels for years, the last time was when I had our SS commodore, which always seemed to peform pretty well on the vortex, but like a couple of members said my kluger seems to run better on BP ULTIMATE,so I probadly stick it and I also agree at least the engine running clean healthy.

This is what I have been saying for years in my mega thread on the Kluger *and now my FJ*

These engines are a gem, over double the power of an oil burner smoke machine, 10 times the character!, they have a soul, and they use very little if any more fuel :)

You just can not beat these modern V6 petrol BEASTS!

Wanted to type (it was mentioned in another thread) about the Toyota "rattle" from the VVTI system on a cold start. Common to Kluger and FJ.

I prescribed a simple procedure to blip the engine twice from idle to just under 2000rpm in sucession before shutting it off for either the day or an extended storage time.

Since doing this (I have been so for almost a year now) not once have I ever herd that rattle from the VVTi system being low on oil on first start up. Its a procedure that works :) and is simple, and makes allot of sense, its keeping oil (due to the higher pressure and flow, the 2 blips achieve *shut down engine as revs fall to 1500rpm or so).

If anyone wants to they can try it ;) causes no harm only good to the motor :)

Peter,

I wish I was as knowledgeable as you with cars. Would love my kluger to sound like your FJ but I don't the knowledge, time and money; and probably money is what I have the least LOL..

Thought of starting an 86 Project?

No need the FJ is much more class than a 86, sounds better, goes much harder :)

Basically increased the stock performance by 20+ percent with very minor tweaks, no big money spent.

Parts tally

1 x TRD air filter

1 x Megan racing cat back exhaust

***Less than $500 spend!***

* The rest, just pure research and step by step testing and mods to the existing platform (air box restriction eliminated, air flow path enhanced, Air Flow Meter modified), each step closely verified and proven.

Unlike most of the crap on the internet and scam sales for thousands of dollars of parts in ECU's, superchargers, headers, after market cold air induction kits etc etc etc etc.... This is backed up with real before and after testing, not just a token worthless power graph either, but a real measure that correlates 100% with reality (time and distance taken to do work). 20% power increase over stock = 20% reduction in time and distance and also a 20% increase in force you feel and measure :) it does not get any simpler or better than that :)

I reached my goal, consistent sub 7 second 0-100kmh times and it does it by a long way.

I fitted up the ENEOS 5w-40 engine oil and ran 2 separate tests.

The first one was on my non ideal test track and it did

0-100kmh in 6.78 seconds

In mild disbelief I decided to test again the next morning on the std test track...

0-100kmh in 6.84 seconds!

in imperial units > 0-60mph in 6.49 seconds

Still to go is to drop in the RS*R Ran Up engine treatment. The engine oil accounted for about +3rwkw to +4 rwkw power gain (187.5rwkw peak) over the Mobil 1 5w-50 it replaced, but of more interest is it seems to have more mid range power? anyway the power curves are but one measure the proof is in the performance measure which you CAN'T cheat or falsify and it have given me a minimum of 0.12 seconds improvement in the 0-100kmh time.... which I am amazed at really.

I'll post up the graphs and pictures later on.

VBOX3i Report inc average power between test lines, and acceleration G's (both GPS and Accelerometer)

Screen display of test (I knew it was a fast one!) Full verfied with height over run in above VBOX report

Previous days run (did not believe it was this fast so rechecked above! still a FAST time!)

The BEAST!

Hello Gents,

Your input is appreciated and apologies if my question has caused some intense dialogue amongst some. However, I sincerely do hope after this we all remain civil and peace amongst us prevails :D

My opinion is all input does have merits but the oustanding advise for me is using premium oil in all cases as this will minimise/prevent the sludge build up as shown in Youtube provided by Rice Racing. Cheers once again my friends!

No problem mate, hopefully the trolls stay in the Camry section lol and leave us alone ;)

Each to their own,

If you read my thread on the Kluger and now my FJ Crusier I have my own procedures for run in, and oils, and servicing (no stealerships involved or hobo lube service mechanics down the road) and my cars "both" used no oil, have exceptional performance (proven! not with an I phone app lol) and amazing fuel economy, again proven, not doctored info.

This is why I will trust my own advice over anyone else's, I have proven it, and gone out of my way to show it to people here as well........

Believe what you want, its a free world, all hail the internet forum and free worthless opinons LOL

So you have never ever used injector cleaner either too? LOL at you ;)

Factory oil = varnish build up, proven fact, engine flush will work well and its recommended on a stealership pleb dino oil serviced car

Pleb mechanic advise is just that ;)

LOL @ Stealerships

One day you can improve your self and get off award wages mate ;)

nothiing has changed since the 70's Corolla 18RG motor!

Something obviously has changed, becuase the Corolla never had the 18RG, or any R-series engine for that matter

I had a Celica with an 18RG, from new........

Were you even born then???????????

And the reason why you see those inflated costs for servicing and parts is that is how most dealerships actually make their money

THE END.

Moral, put that wasted money into a premium product and do it yourself, you WIN, not the STEALERSHIP or HOBO JIFFY LUBE MECHANIC DOWN THE ROAD :)

The engines come with a recommended oil viscosity, put in the recommended oil, service it according to the logbook or a little more frequently if you want and you'll be fine

OMG you are a total muppet, and an ignorant one at that :)

SO lets summarize, do you even know why Toyota have reduced oil viscosity recommendations over the last 10 years, followed up by an addendum in the factory manual telling you it is acceptable to use 1 lt per 1000km and this is and i quote "Normal" where as 5 years earlier there was no such addendum added?????????

Its only to meet emission standards and reduce Co on that faggy lable on the front of a new cars window! IT COMES AT THE EXPENSE OF ENGINE LIFE! Pistons skirts and bores are scuffed out at 150,000km as a result of running factory (last 5 years recommend oil viscosities) so FAIL for following your advise or that of your stealership OR putting in crap oil as supplied to them.

Toyota have reduced their acceptable engine life down to 150,000km on the new oil viscosities, it all comes at the expense of increased engine wear, so FAIL if you go to a stealership or some hobo mechanic at your conrner store listening to oil advise in the hand book.

It's not just a Toyota problem, look at Subaru and their 0w20 recommended oil LOL, Toyota are follwing that path too. If you pull apart any of these motors and measure the piston to bore clearances or bearing clearances you will notice nothiing has changed since the 70's Corolla 18RG motor! so ask yourself in your own self professed wisdom what has the oil viscosity dropped, its only to suit greenies at the expense of you the end user and a disposable society that throws away clunkers.

Don't believe everything you read in a hand book or factory propoganda or stealership brainwashing hand me down advise, do your own research talk to people who actually build enegines and have decades of experience and preferably formal mechanical engineering qualifications and you will find the truth from the hype.

Premium oil only you will get if you source it yourself! NO Stealership will put in $100 per 5 lt oil in your pride and joy.

Watch these videos for anyone interested, oils aint oils.

Then search the Mobil 1 version I recommended in my first post to the OP's request for "advice" do your research on this, IF you have pulled down many motors like me, even ones that have been serviced totally by stealerships using (OE based oils) *dubious* as most skimp and cut costs using bulk oil contracts with various local vendors like Castrol etc then even more so you have no idea what is going into your car!

Take control!

Do your own basic work!

You and your engine will be better for it!

And you will feel better knowing you are not useless like the majority of the population believing the CON of factory servicing and all of the grief that goes along with it.

Remember a Stealership WILL NOT use the highest grade of oil in your car, only what meets minimum requirements @ a cost benefit to the dealer principle, who is paying minimum wages to his staff, has lowest cost parts and consumables, YET charges out a wastly inflated cost to you the "valued customer"

This is how he affords his Yatch and Holiday home, and why people like viper33 work for award wages as mechanics, and after a few years get jack of it and go stack shelves at Wollies for more pay ;)

Moral, learn basic mechanics and service your own cars :)

Out of curiousity, what makes my opinion worthless? The fact that I disagree with you?

oh I dunno, maybe the fact you are a troll who has not owned a Kluger let alone worked on one yourself?????????

I'd class that as worthless in this thread ;)

Last time I checked, your rant was about dealership servicing, not a Kluger. No, I haven't worked on a Kluger, but I consider myself to be interested in all Toyotas (and a supporter of home maintenance if the owner is capable), thus why I opened the thread.

Good so you intention is honest then, think about my first reply and read why these "flushes" can be of use and why they are needed, its mostly to refresh an engine that has been choked up by the use of inferior OILS and by definition from you and viper33 its in the vast majority cause people are useless and rely on goign to stealerships who are known to cut corners and use bulk oil contracts to cut down on costs at the expense of you a "valued customer" lol............

Use higher grades of premium oils and you will not have sludge or varishes (bigger problem) occuring over the life of your engine, as my rants according to you pointed out to the OP, in the interest of passing on real knowledge and not a sheeple mass opinion........... take it as you will.

If we look at the OP's original request for help, maybe you or others token keyboard farts could address his original question and also expand on it with your own knoweldge???????? now that is a novel idea hey :)

Sludge & Varnish

Why do they exist?

I have man'd up through my own knoweldge (high hourse according to you?)

What have you done to address the OP's original question or done to help him out?

Think about it then and why I class your input as worthless ;)

Out of curiousity, what makes my opinion worthless? The fact that I disagree with you?

oh I dunno, maybe the fact you are a troll who has not owned a Kluger let alone worked on one yourself?????????

I'd class that as worthless in this thread ;)

Rant

worthless opinion

There is no need to go to a stealership, end of story, unless you are useless of course.

IF you have some go in you, and you want the best for your car, learn to do it yourself, end of story.

I will agree with you on one thing...

If you don not own a tool kit, do not know what a socket, spanner, shifter, torque wrench is (let alone own one) THEN you need to give up dreams of doing your own work, you will need to keep having high school failures working on your car using sub standard oils, and getting bent over paying off the dealer priciples Yatch & Holiday houses ;)

It is a sad world we live in today that people can google and wiki their way through life and think that this is "skills" and hard core yet most probably as viper33 eludes too can't do basic mechanical work.

SO be realistic, dont be foolish, if you want to learn then its not hard, remember a failed group of society are actually working as "professionals" on your car, and they are not the smartest bunch on earth, just know that when you drop off your pride and joy at any mechanics or stealerships to have work performed.

sludge & in particular VARNISH (far greater problem! as it causes rings to stick) forms as a part of using low quality stealership oil!!!! *PROVEN FACT* it can happen after only 5000km let alone 15000km as per viper33's claims based off what??? an opinion based of what??? his immense education and skills LOL............ ***** tool.

I know I do this for a living, not sure WTF you do except aspouse some crap on the internet cause you were or are a lube monkey for a stealership??????????

LOL @ oil viscosity and recommendations. So you now are an engineer are you????????? guess what I am ( as well as being a qualified Mechanic for 20 + years, and a teacher, and many other things, and I still work in the "trade") :)

I give out advice being a man, not a tool on the internet like you telling people to go to a stealership and doll out bad advise cause you yourself are inept at your own trade and intelect.

Again I say 100% if you want to get ripped by a stealership and a fail school kid and people who hate life working in them on your car, then by all means be like the other generation useless types and go ahead. BUT if you want to use premium parts and do a quality job, DO IT YOURSELF. No one will ever take more care than you yourself, and you are not paying for the dealer principles Yatch or holiday house in the process, you are putting your money into buying hte best for your car and doing the best job.

Its not that hard. Just takes some balls@! and a brain.