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Latest Postings
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15
Brake issues
Update. Looks like I may have got to the bottom of this issue. Purchased ceramic blend pads from Repco to fit with the DBA slotted rotors. After another dismantling of the front brakes found the pads were shedding chunks. It seems that this in turn caused DTV (Disk Thickness Variation) as these were 'depositing' pad material. Repco did give me a refund on the pads but also admitted that those pads were not suitable for slotted rotor application. Fitted different pads, new rotors and so far so good. -
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Intermittent power loss with 2013 Hilux turbo diesel
Hi all, I drive a 2013 Hilux with the 3.0 litre turbo diesel, with about 113K kilometres on the odometer. The vehicle is well maintained. Recently it has been having an intermittent problem with momentary power loss. The vehicle will be coasting along just fine, when suddenly it is as if the motor has conked out (which it probably has). No coughing, no rough running... just total and immediate loss of power. No warning lights come on when this happens. Then, as suddenly as the power went, the motor picks up again 5 or so seconds later, and we continue on our merry way. It seems to happen 5-10 minutes after starting the vehicle, and once it's happened it doesn't happen again until the next time the vehicle is started -- usually. So I'm thinking it has to be some sort of fuelling problem. 1. I have checked the fuel filter in the engine bay for water, but it is as clean as a whistle -- and besides, the warning light for the filter doesn't come on. 2. Is it a problem with the injectors? To my knowledge they have never been changed. I ran some injector cleaner stuff through the tank but this has not helped with the problem. 3. Could it be a fuel pump problem? Again, there are no warning lights, but who knows... 4. Could it be that the fuel system is sucking air in from somewhere, and it is the air pocket going through the injectors which causes the momentary power loss? I cannot find any evidence of diesel leaks, and there is no smell of diesel anywhere in the engine bay. So I'm stumped. I could take it to a mechanic BUT I am here in Peru, S.America and (i) there is the language barrier, and (ii) mechanics around here are pretty hit and miss (probably more miss than hit). So I would rather try and sort this out myself. All suggestions welcome! Thanks, Mike F. -
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Cleaning Engine Bay - Hints, Tips, Products?
For years I used to degrease my engine bay with petrol, and before starting up, would wait for it all to totally evaporate (or else one stray spark ... WHOOM 🔥). I also tried kerosene, but the normal stuff made the car smell like a tractor for a week, but nowadays low odour kerosene is available. I also tried water soluble engine degreaser that is sold in a pressure can. Initially convenient and not such a bad odour, but subsequently I found out that it will get under the paint of a cast-iron block and cause rusting. (See Photo). So, I checked the fine print on the can, and lo and behold, it does say, "Use caution when applying near painted surfaces". 😖 Presumably it is only good for concrete slabs, or aluminium engine blocks. So, I am back to petrol and low odour kerosene. -
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Rav4 2016 Missing Panel Replacements
Hey Everyone, Looking to replace these missing panels and locked for the boot of my RAV4 2016. Recently bought it second hand and didn't notice these were missing until I got it home. I'm even happy if someone has 3D Printer files on these. Thanks. -
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Ae112r 1998 keyless entry wiring help
I know this is an old thread but I found it when searching for details of wires to hook into and found no answer here. So for anyone else looking for at least part of the answer, I can tell you about the following wires. I just bought a generic Aliexpress module that has LB-405 on it, Lanbo ?? was about $15. Central locking wires The Toyota factory system works by grounding the wires. Pop out the panel that has the central locking button on the right hand side of the steering wheel. On this plug for the button you'll find a [blue with white stripe] which is the lock wire, and then a [blue with yellow stripe] which is the unlock wire. Each time you ground these the system activates accordingly. So on my Aliexpress module, just had to connect the normally open (NO) wires to these two. The white wire on the module went to the lock wire (blue/white) on the car and the white with black stripe wire on the module went to the blue/yellow wire on the car. You then need to ground both the yellow and yellow/black stripe wires from the module. For indicator flash - pull out the panel that has the hazard light switch. There are two wires in that switch plug which operate each side of the indicators that are green with yellow stripe and green with black stripe. My module just had two brown wires to connect to the indicators so connect a brown wire to each of the indicator wires behind the hazard switch. I didn't connect the horn sound (pink) or any of the other optional wires (trunk, window rising, etc). Then you just need constant power and a ground.- installation
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78 Series. Unable to get rear axle back in
Hi All I have a 78 series Troopy. I have just replaced the rear bearings, hence have had both axles out. On the drivers side I am unable to slide axle back in due to a shim that has fallen down blocking about a 1/4 of the axle housing. I had this happen many years ago and phoned a guy I knew, ex mechanic. He's no longer with us. Anyway, my memory was that I just had to slide something in (broom or similar) and push the shim/washer up and back in position, I then slide the axle in. Not moving this time though. I have had the axles out a couple of times since then without any problem. Unsure if I've had both axles out at the same time as I have now though. I initially thought it didn't want to budge due to the twisting of the car due to being jacked up. Since then I have tried a variety of different wheels jacked up, on the ground etc. No luck. Vehicle has factory lockers and the locker is on the side of the diff in question. Thanks for your help. Shim is just before the diff spline. -
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1997 Rav4 - Think I need a new engine
Hi Helen, It could well be just a head gasket. Still it would need the head to be pulled off and maybe some machine work. I believe that there are /were places that sell second hand, low mileage, jap motors. They come from Japan, as they must replace their motors every 3 years. The only problem, using them here, is that they are not totally compatible, so parts may be difficult to find. Herb -
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1997 Rav4 - Think I need a new engine
Hi Everyone, I'm seeking some advice. I love my 1997 Rav4 but it's recently had water in one of the cylinders. My mechanic has put some gunk stuff in the radiator to try and seal it up. I know this is not ideal and to be honest it is not working as I am having to fill the radiator every second day or so. Should I try and get a new engine or is it time to let it go? If you all think that I could get a new engine for it - where do I go to get that done? I live on the Central Coast of NSW. Really seeking some honest feedback! Thank you. Helen -
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Aerial Coax
Hello to all club members, I hope everybody is well. I have a 2005 Hilux single cab, V6 petrol engine, but my question is about the stereo aerial. I'm trying to find where the coax goes to from the base of the aerial as I need to replace the aerial. Any information would be greatly appreciated & I thank you in advance -
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SV21 (3S-FE) Engine Won't Pull When Cold
When cold, the engine would start normally and idle normally, but upon pressing the accelerator there was no pulling power, until the engine had warmed up. It felt as if the EFI was leaning out massively as soon as one pressed the accelerator. Over time, the symptoms then became worse, even to the point that the idle was affected. Cold start was normal, but then after some 30 seconds the engine would die (just as soon as the cold enrichment period was over). A re-start would always work though. I suspected the Mass-Air-Flow sensor but couldn't find anything obviously wrong. The other likely suspect was the air duct leading up to the inlet-manifold plenum. Superficially, I could not see any obvious air leaks, but upon close inspection I noticed that the rubber collar-seal that is fitted inside the duct (at the plenum end) was brittle with age and starting to crack. This seal is no longer available from Toyota, but it dawned on me that a short length of rubber hose could be used as a substitute. I did this, and that solved the problem completely, and cold performance was back to normal. Repair details are as follows:- GATES 2-1/4" ID SILICONE TURBO HOSE Code: GAT26136 (with a wall thickness of ≈4mm). This is sold online by the centimeter, and 4cm is all that is needed. To buy online, the link is:- https://www.maxiparts.com.au/GAT24836-hose-silicone-2-1-4-and-quot?SearchID=2828731&SearchPos=2 Do tell them in the comments box that you only want 4cm, or else they'll think it's a typo. Also insist on Gates with 4mm wall thickness, not the Tyco brand with the thinner wall of only 2.7mm). It will be a very tight fit on the plenum-pipe, but by cutting some gentle scallops into one end of the silicone hose, and applying a smear of rubber grease, you will be able to get it to slide onto the plenum-pipe. [The scallops will act as expandable guide-fingers to get the hose started, and then the rest will follow fairly easily.] The OEM air duct (minus its original internal collar-seal) will now be a snug fit, and a Tridon hose-clamp (52-76 mm) nicely finishes the job. N.B. Whenever removing the air-duct for servicing, the silicone hose should remain on the plenum-pipe.
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