robie
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Posts posted by robie
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wow i just looked up euro toyota and such a car exists sr180 2.2 D4D 3door hatch 177hp/400nm
I WANT ONE!!!!!!!
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As Shannon(Whip Cracker) mentioned earlier, Campbell from Townsville, had to lower compression, as he ran into issues at 7psi, im not exactly certain what those issues were...and the engine will be a 5s-gte wouldnt it?
those issues could have been fuel related and if there was no fuel system upgrades done well that'll do it or ignition related like i said if you have the technologise you can run a decent amount of boost with the normal compression ratio's
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"Drink more beer, forget about the last one, get yourself another" Go the kiwi's.
Damn it!!!!!!!!
Oh well. Thanks for the info boys. I thought it would be to good to be true. Otherwise i supose every one would be doing it.
Maybey ill just have to wait till I win the lotto.
Bondie I looked into this a while back will have to dig up old info of my desktop on bussiness trip atm but here is sample of FAQ
When shipping RORO we recommend KIWI Car Carriers where possible - the main reason is that all cars carried with KIWI are covered by KIPS marine insurance automatically at no extra cost .. not a lot of people know that if a ship sinks with your car onboard, you can be held liable for part of the salvage costs unless you have "general average" insurance (which is also covered by KIPS)
Once your vehicle lands here.
When the vehicle lands in Australia we can make arrangements for all of the Customs clearance and Quarantine paperwork. You will be instructed how to make payment for the ocean freight, import duty and GST - again you are able to pay directly so you know there are no hidden costs.
If you choose container shipping, you may be invited to attend as the container is opened and your vehicle is unpacked - otherwise it will normally be transported directly to the RAWS workshop for compliance. The work necessary to meet ADR standards varies considerably for different makes & models, but all vehicles have fluids & filters replaced (oil, air & fuel) and almost certainly require new tyres to be fitted, then it must be passed by an approved engineer. Once the compliance work is all done and you have made payment for it, you can then take the car to arrange registration (we can help with this if necessary - please ask)
Now you enjoy your new car.
Your new car should be ready to register in around 10 to 12 weeks from the time of purchase. All prices given are only estimates and do not include on-road costs, but will normally include full ADR compliance - you will need to contact your local authority for registration prices (VicRoads, RTA, etc.) Prices could vary depending on the final auction sale price and current exchange rate.
Be the envy of your friends, drive your dream.
Vehicle import laws.
Australia has some of the most strict import laws prohibiting the import of most vehicles. The basic law states that a vehicle may only be imported if it has never been sold locally in full volume. This applies to vehicles that are essentially the same vehicle with different badging. (eg. Ford Laser & Mazda 323)
A vehicle is considered to be a different model if it varies substantially in design to a local car, as is the case with the Nissan 300ZX which was only ever available here in a 2+2 seater version, so we can import the Jap spec 2 seater cars. Different engine type or size does not classify a car as a different model. Once a vehicle is deemed to be a different model it must pass the S.E.V.S. criteria in order to be allowed for import.
Specialist & Enthusiast Vehicle Scheme (S.E.V.S.)
All vehicles are now judged using the new S.E.V.S.ruling system. There is no easy way to explain this quickly but basically vehicles must meet 2 out of the following 4 criteria:
Be significantly different in appearance to vehicles sold new in Australia
Have unusual design features to anything sold new locally
Performance greater than 105kw/ton, or unusually good economy
Be featured in specialist publications (eg. High performance imports, Zoom, etc.)
They have a web site that keeps an updated list of all vehicle types that have been reviewed for import and approved or declined. Go to S.E.V.S.
What about cars not listed there?
Obviously not all cars would pass these criteria. Most of the popular ones would have been judged already, but if there is a vehicle that you think would be eligible for import that is not listed, let us know and we will lodge an application for you.
Import approval.
Just because the vehicle type has been approved for importing, it doesn't mean you can just buy one and ship it here. Any vehicle that comes into Australia needs to have an import permit issued by DOTARS in Canberra. Under the new laws, the import approval for SEVS cars must be lodged by the compliance workshop (RAWS), but as usual we will be here to help with this part of the process if necessary.
Personal Imports.
You can import any car as a personal import if you have owned and used it for at least 12 months overseas first. You still have to apply for an import approval for a personal import. You will need to provide registration and insurance paperwork to prove ownership history and use of the vehicle. We can provide assistance to help you every step of the way.
Importing 1988 and older cars.
Any vehicle built in 1988 or older is allowed for import into Australia without restriction, however as with any other vehicle you will need to get an import approval from DOTARS in Canberra. These older cars do not need to go through the normal SEVS compliance process, although you will need to do some basic modifications and get an engineers report proving that the car meets the relevant ADR's for the year of manufacture - the work necessary for this will vary between different cars and from state to state .. generally speaking you should allow around $800 to $1,300 for compliance work on most popular 1988 models
Azza73
so wat this means basically if i wanted to import a stock standard auris with a desiel engine in it id have no chance but if i could find a 2door that would be ok
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Just wondering if u've done any engine work already? Because 203Hp@6300rpms(as in your sig) is defintely not stock lol. And you certainly would need to lower compression if ur gunna throw 2 snails on there.
lower comp with forced induction is a myth these days if you wanna run alot of boost ok yes you have to lower comp but if your only goin for a modest amount of boost with the right fuel and tune i think 10:1 static comp 98 oct fuel 15psi boost as long as you use moden tecknologise on internals ignition system and fuel systems you can make better power that way
rather then going 8:1 comp 98 oct fuel u'd have to use more boost to make the same power that and you make the turbo laggier when you lower comp
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13.7 @104mph in previous car
hoping for 12.## in current car as 30extra hp and mech lsd added
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id be down for a dyno meet.
if it was a track day id still turn up but id be a spectator eheh
ah come on track days are easier on your car then drag or dyno and if its crashin your worried about theres only 1 wall on wakefield you could hit and its on the straight so if you hit it you got issues and eastern creek isnt to bad either but if it was oran park i could understand (who puts a wall along the outside of a corner honestly)
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at work we use a 75w90 easy shift and to fill theres a filler plug on the box you add fluid till it comes outy the hole
as for your trouble not selecting gears is it hard or imposible if its imposible i dont think its gear oil prob id be checking clutch pedal feel
very soft may indicate leaking or air in hydraulic system (look for leaks at master and slave cyliders) if thats good grad a friend and bleed.
if it goes into gear when engine is not run hold foot on clutch start and see how far off the floor the pedal get b4 it grabs you may need to adjust the pedal free play.
if you cant select gears with engine off then you may have a linkage problem once again grab a friend and see how much movement you have in all linkages from gear knob to box
if all that seems ok try ajusting linkages in 1 direction first then the other
if that fails id say you have a problem with the box and it would probably be cheaper to sorce4 a second hand box rather then rebuild
in sayin all that it may be your best bet to get a work shop opinion or 2 as it could just be a $2 clip or $10 bush
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after easters good to as its starting to cool down my car doesnt seem to like this weather in winter on the dyno 250fw hp summer like 200fwhp if that (no proof just doesnt feel as good) but yeah lets do something ppl 4 something that involves power xoom has to show up
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in austtralia on a new car any mods r illegal even exhuast but pre euro 4 cars any mods that arnt ajustable can be done as in aftermarket ecus with visible hand controllers adjustable fuel regs ajustable boost controllers etc etc but any mods still should be engineered
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The 1 UZ option was put off as the car wasn't going to pass the torsion tests, yes serious with the turbos as I already have them just found someone today to get manifolds fabricated and downpipes, have to move the fans to the front of the radiator including rerouting hoses should be picking up intercooler tomorrow.
id really like to the figures on this combo when its all done
it may not make quite as much power as a 3sgte but when it makes the power n how much torque it makes should be impressive
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Hello all I have a gen 3 camry wagon what I need to know is how much boost can a stock 5S bottom end handle.
So far I have a TRD ecu with a yamaha head and a new intake manifold fresh back from Toyota with enlarged ports and a few other extra mods. I have a set of CT20A twin turbos to go on after a bit of custom fabrication but not sure how much boost its going to take.
that alone sounds sweet 5sge 1 of a kind
im sure it will handle boost ok just dont try and make it rev
2.4l with a turbo should make good power at lower rpm anyway
if you tune it and have a rev limit setup for no more then 6000rpm and 10psi boost you should be ok i reacon
as long as you have rebuilt the bottom end
and if you do some mods to the bottom end like rods, pistons, mains & bigend bolts etc i think 1.5 bar (20+psi) should be achievable but i still wouldnt rev it over 6000rpm
Out of curiousity, you're not joking right. From what I have read, a turbo'ed stock 5sfe should pull only slightly more than what a stock v6 does if you want reliability. Hence why a lot of people in the states recommend dropping a v6 in it and then working on from there.
well if his already done alot of work to the head im sure it can make as much power as a worked n/a v6 ok its only as much power but 4cylinders are a hell of alot easier to work on and to me servicablity=reliability as your gonna be more inclined to change the oil change the filters change the spark plugs etc etc so yeah why not turbo a 4 appossed to workin a 6 or you could always do wat trent suggested V8 rwd
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heat shield done
washer bottel done
timing belt cover not done
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floor mats are in i know its no big deal to any of you but they are for my enjoyment and they do look good
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nice rolla im a fan of the sxae92/93 only reason i went to a ae 102 was it was $2500 and in pretty good nik(made a good doner car)
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Hello all I have a gen 3 camry wagon what I need to know is how much boost can a stock 5S bottom end handle.
So far I have a TRD ecu with a yamaha head and a new intake manifold fresh back from Toyota with enlarged ports and a few other extra mods. I have a set of CT20A twin turbos to go on after a bit of custom fabrication but not sure how much boost its going to take.
that alone sounds sweet 5sge 1 of a kind
im sure it will handle boost ok just dont try and make it rev
2.4l with a turbo should make good power at lower rpm anyway
if you tune it and have a rev limit setup for no more then 6000rpm and 10psi boost you should be ok i reacon
as long as you have rebuilt the bottom end
and if you do some mods to the bottom end like rods, pistons, mains & bigend bolts etc i think 1.5 bar (20+psi) should be achievable but i still wouldnt rev it over 6000rpm
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its only seat belt issue in aust the exhaust issue effects over seas modles
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as its not in warranty any more id be looking up vynile restorers i think theres 1 call new finish or something like that
im sure they could fix for less then the cost of a new upper dash pad
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does any 1 know more about it all ive seen is toyota recalling 1.3million vehicle world wide for exhaust n seat belts does any one know what vehicles are effected
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getting genuine TRD floor mats for my lux tomorrow cant wait and thank god there nor full rrp ($250)
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if you buy the genuine towbar and wiring kits they come with instruction and templates for cutting the rear bar
not saying you cant do it but id leave it to your dealer or even auto elec due to reason i stated earlier bout the if you **** up
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yeah not as simple as the 120 series
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theres a wire on a 150 series you have to run from the towbar to the front of the car they allow 70 mins just for wiring
and with the tow bar fitment itself you have to cut out a small section of the rear bar so yeah ok dealer ship prices are high but atleast if the dealership stuffs the cuting out part up your gonna get a new rear bar but if you stuff the cuting of the bar up well tough shiiit hey
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ah ok well let me know how you go with it
How fast is your car on a 1/4 mile track
in Club Lounge
Posted
not bad for an n/a 1.6l no but if you read my post im already doin 13's mines a 4age with the hope of doin 12's