WaynoGTS

looking good, its that time to change my Tyres so been tossing up between rims n tyre combo or just upgrading my tyres.

How much did you pay for the Combo and where from and What brand tyre and size? if you dont mind me asking.

I have a Black Facelift and am thinking Gold or white when i powdercoat the rims, i think white.

Tempe but I wouldn't recommend them.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=18585

I've been trying to get a hold of the boys at Kaizen Garage without success.

I'll probably go with Lows/Superlows + KYB ExcelG, though I'm considering the toyota option springs. The only problem with them is the rear will most likely still be too high. That's a big risk seeing how they're $100 dearer than a set of Kings.

I put standard height kings in my last corolla after having lows and it was awesome, standard had the same handling as lows, but weren't a pain in the *****.

Also getting slotted brake discs because the factory ones need machining. Sway bar's been on back order for weeks now.

I'm assuming any company who's not a forum sponsor we can talk about uncensored?

On Tuesday last week I ordered a set of 17"s with 215/45R17 tires, I received them yesterday (Brisbane).

This is what I ordered:

4x 17" Lenso Light S2

4x 215/45R17 Sumo Firenza ST-08 91W

4x hub insets

set wheel nuts

This is what I received yesterday after a week:

4x 17" Lenso Light S2

4x 215/45R17 Kenda Kaiser KR20 87W

4x hub insets

set wheel nuts

Here's the list of issues I encountered:

- When I ordered the staff seemed to ignore all the previous email correspondence. One of them called me back and tried to tell me the tires I was ordering wouldn't fit at all and that I needed 205/45R17, obviously so it cost them less.

- Tires sat in the Brisbane depot for 4 days, I emailed Tempe for assistance but got no response at all. I had to call TNT twice a day to get something done.

- I didn't get the agreed tires.

- There's no confirmation of my order before they sent it out obviously, otherwise I might have noticed they changed what I ordered without informing me.

- Unless I missed it somehow, I didn't receive a receipt.

Update: a day after fitting them I thought I better check the pressures. They ranged from 37 to 55 - above the maximum written on the sidewall!!!!

Update 2: I emailed them and asked for an invoice, why different tires were fitted and why the pressures were awful, and my questions were completely ignored but I should get an invoice in the mail, big whoop.

Update 3: Went to Bob Jane Toombul, had it booked in at 9, they didn't start till 10:30. When they finally finished at 11:30, they said each wheel was out by 20g. So Tempe didn't balance any of the wheels either in addition to not doing the pressures correctly.

Next time I'll order from Taleb Tyres instead, they were much more helpful and responsive, but $50 more expensive.

Went with the white, to be different.

These with tires weight EXACTLY the same as stock Sportivo alloys with tires. 17.8Kg.

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$2500 is a pretty damn good price. Where is that from? I've been quoted $3500 for the 40mm, and $5500 for the 50mm.

As for spring rates, the Cusco come with 7kg front and 5kg rear and I find it is fine unless you have to go over a lot of speed bumps. Maybe go a trade off between comfort and performance. Front 5kg, and rear 3kg, or something like that, up to you.

GSL Rallysport at Brendale, QLD

1300 884 836

sales@gslrallysport.com

1 set only, after which they're $3400. Tell them I told you.

Car: 2005 ZZE123R facelift

Suspension: stock (3 years old, 60k km)

Tyres: New 195/55R16 (620mm diameter)

I've taken 2 measurements on 2 sets of flat ground:

Vertical from ground to guard:

Front Right 675

Front Left 680

Rear Right 690

Rear Left 700

Sideskirt ground clearance:

Front Right 190

Front Left 195

Rear Right 205

Rear Left 215

Center of wheel to bottom of guard derived from first measurement:

Front Right 365

Front Left 370

Rear Right 380

Rear Left 390

Difference between left and right is 5mm front and 10mm rear.

Difference between front and rear is 15mm on right and 20mm on left.

It would be good if i could get springs 20mm lower at front and 35mm lower at rear to go with new shocks, suggestions?

Anyone who wants to measure up and compare, post them up here.

The price of the PZQ8112020 Sportivo spring set from Toyota is $333.

The price of the Toyota OEM springs is $119 ea spring.

Toyota Camber adjustment bolts (not sure if you can get these or how much):

90105-15004 Toyota Camber 0.75" (45')

90105-15005 Toyota Camber 1.00" (1")

90105-15006 Toyota Camber 1.25" (1" 15')

One thing I don't understand is how the springs can come down beside the tyre on coilovers?

There's about 20mm gap between the stock tyres and the stock strut. 17x7"'s will cut that in half and the springs on coilovers are wider than a stock strut body...

2510 including springs.

Also what spring rate to get for comfort like the tein super wagon?

Ta

Kaizen Garage, can easily smash those prices.

Holy **** that's AK, I thought he moved to Sydney...

There's a guy called Brad (usually his user name too), no sure if he's on here as well, but he's on Twincam and a couple of other forums, he's a reseller/dealer for Whiteline, KYB etc, usually does a springs/shocks combo for around the $7-800 mark delivered to your door

Here's his Twincam profile if you want to get in touch with him, email is bjmayne AT bigpond DOT net DOT au

Hehe yeah I bought from him a couple years ago come to think of it ... or it might have been another Brad in Brisbane, theres so many of them!

I've got these prices from Bursons Stafford:

Kings

Front Low KTFL-105 $135.00

Rear Low KTRL-106 $135.00

KYB

FR 334376 $155.00

FL 334377 $155.00

Rear 341338 $152.00 x2

TOTAL

$890.00

Pedders are about $200 more expensive i.e. $1090.00 for a full set.

Anyone know where to get struts and springs below $800.00?

Stupid exchange rate!

I had 20% for 1 weekend, it was FAR too obvious and too dark at night also. 35% on the other hand hardly seems worth it, but much safer than 20%.

I've already ruled out white but included them anyway for completeness. White may look the best clean, but the absolute worst dirty.

Wheel choices:

Before:

After:

Even more after:

As above.

Images removed.

Do you have a roll cage?

In the event that you roll the car, a harness will effectively keep you upright with more rigidity. If the roof collapses, so will your neck. A fractured skull is better than a broken neck.

They're really only designed to be used in conjunction with fixed back bucket seats and a roll cage.

It also won't be as effective without a proper seat, where as a seat is still somewhat effective without the harness, just more expensive.

Also, with the rear straps horizontal, you're stock seats are more likely to collapse with the increased pressure, rendering airbags useless.

I used to use a removable 4 point, but was still a pain in the **** to implement, and was only worthwhile with proper seats.

Incidentally i am having a bad day, but would react the same regardless.

I do not recommend this mod. The open entry at the front permits water straight up into the airbox. I mean unlikely, but I'll bet your warranty doesn't cover that. And I'd suggest the gain and noise benefits will be small.

Talk to the dealer. They supply TRD kit, ie a proper CAI with proper benefits.

Full marks for effort, just don't want ppl on the forum thinking this is a good solution.

whitestivo

1. The intake sits in exactly the same spot or higher (depending on the person who implements it) as your hallowed flawless TRD CAI.

2. You have a pre-facelift, so don't assume to be an expert on facelift models.

3. There's a gaping hole in the rear of the airbox for drainage. If you'd ever bothered to look you'd see if the air feed was blocked, air would be drawn in from there instead.

4. Given 3. you'd have to be a moron to drive through water at full throttle to overcome the flow from the drainage opening.

5. Some people may not want a big shiny OBVIOUS modification to their engine.

6. There's no uninterrupted negative pressure between all the openings to the fog light cavity and the ducting - it's not a vacuum direct to outside.

7. If you'd read the guide instead of just looking at the pretty pictures, you'd see I didn't recommend all the available options.

Full marks for effort, just don't want ppl on the forum thinking this is a good solution.

8. People are entitled to think whatever they like.

9. I could pretty much go on all day, but have work to do...

You might want to let people make up their own minds. This guide (and the workshop section) is for making information easy to find. If you want to debate or just post your opinion everywhere you can, I suggest not posting in the workshop section.

The goal isn't to create more power, just more response, noise and air.

MORE PHOTOS

80cm option:

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60cm straight down behind fog light option:

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You can see the compartment is already fairly well ventilated.

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60cm down to beside fog light option:

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Stock fog light surround:

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Modified fog light surround. Unfortunately I didn't have a file handy :(

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Final result:

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...

Keywords: CAI corolla sportivo stock induction intake ducting airbox

This is the same mod I did to my old AE93, except that time I used silicon ducting with a 3" helix.

This time I used thermoplastic rubber with a 3" helix. It's fairly thick with rubber on both sides of the helix.

The sound is similar to straight removal of the stock feeder (like a V8). The longer you make the intake, the very slightly quieter it will be. The sound from my SX was more high pitched like a turbo.

Total cost: $30 to $40.

OPTIONS:

THERMO PLASTIC RUBBER

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<-- image removed -->

MULTIFLEX

(I think this is the crap you get from Autobarn. I think it's 100% plastic. No helix.)

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HIGH TEMP

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WHERE TO BUY (BRISBANE):

Tony Powell (Open weekends)

Purple Pig (Not open weekends)

There are multiple length options you can go with:

80cm - from the airbox to resting down on top of the splash guard in front of the radiator in the front bumper. Don't know how effective this would be considering the end is right next to a radiator. Also, there may be an effect on cooling as you're effectively stealing air which might have gone through your radiator.

70cm - from the airbox to a hole cut in the passenger fog light splash guard. Not recommended unless you want to suck up dirt, water, heat straight off the bitumen, etc.

70cm (05 facelift only) - from the airbox to next to the front fog light with a hole cut in the black fog light surround, for sucking in small wildlife and junk. A lot of extra work creating a circular opening in the fog light surround, for more risk. I considered this but honestly wouldn't bother.

60cm - from the airbox to resting next to the front fog light pointing down. Cut it so there's a couple of inches clearance above the slash guard. Obviously don't let it rest flush on top of the splash guard.

40cm - from the airbox straight to behind the passenger headlight. You should cable tie the end of the hose so it points downward into the empty fog light cavity.

I recommend buying 1m for the first 3 options and 50cm for the 40cm option.

Also, DO NOT CUT TO LENGTH WITHOUT PROPERLY FITTING FIRST. The bend right next to the airbox will shorten the ducting considerably.

GETTING THE STOCK FEEDER OUT:

Remove the battery.

Remove the top half of the airbox.

Remove the bottom half of the airbox.

There's a steel line running between the battery and the airbox feeder. Take this out of it's little plastic brack and wedge it down beside the bracket on the battery side.

Remove the stock feeder.

MODIFYING THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE AIRBOX.

The opening to the airbox is 70mm, perfect for clamping the ducting to using a worm drive clamp. The only problem is the corner of the airbox protrudes onto the ring you want to clamp to. The solution to this is to cut away the corner of the airbox. I was short on time and forgot to photo this step. What should be left is 15cm ring all the way around you can securely clamp to.

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INSTALLING NEW FEEDER:

Securely clamp your ducting to the opening in the bottom half of the airbox.

Feed the ducting under your fuze box, through the gap under the headlight and to wherever your option is.

Reinstall everything else.

For the 60cm and 70cm options remove the slash guard under the passenger foglight and remove the black foglight surround to check the placement of the ducting.

Finally, cut your ducting to length.

This is the stock air box feeder:

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Stock in the car:

<-- image removed -->

Stock feeder compared to thermoplastic rubber:

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Final result:

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IMAGE COUNT EXCEEDED :(

How did you paint the rims and how much did it cost?

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Sportivo 195/55R16 to 17" tyre sizes:

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pdb...0JVdWFUOVSpZKTg