NightFlight

Hi, I need to change the coolant in the radiator. It seems to have had some of the cheap green stuff in there before. Is the red Toyota LLC coolant additive right for the 1991 Corolla (4A-FE engine)? And where can I buy this?

OK, thanks for that Hiro. It's possible my mech has been telling me fibs (and very expensive ones too).... Anyway I'm getting a hands on 2nd opinion soon.

So do you think the red marker fluid should be visible on the rack to concertina area (here shown in the pic) if there was a rack seal leak or even a power steering pump leak? Just black oil is evident, a portion is wiped off by finger near the middle area. Other indicators that there isn't a power steering DOT3 leak problem are 1) no stains of any kind on the garage floor and 2) no drop in the power steering fluid level since the car was bought one year ago. Model is Toyota Corolla 1991, 4AFE engine.

Hi, Can anyone tell me if the red DOT 3 power steering fluid would show as a RED oil deposit if there is a leak from the steering rack seals or power steering pump? That is opposed to BLACK sump oil that may drip on to the steering rack.

I'm getting the electrics checked out by the mech tomorrow, just in case it's the alternator or connection problems. Recommendations about batteries would be appreciated however.

Hi, The battery has been going flat recently if I so much as look too hard at it. Jump starts get the car going fine again until....... I leave the running lights on for five minutes without the engine... Erk Had a flakey battery like this before and replacing it fixed the problem. So I'm in the market for a new battery for this vehicle. Any recommendations as to make, model & vendor? I'm looking for good quality (rugged, won't go flakey in under a year like this one ;() but still reasonably priced. This is the Corolla '91 Seca AE92 with the EFI engine. It's also the Ultima model with all the electronic extras as well as aircon, so it needs to handle all that as well.

Thanks for the thoughts ELEGNT!

HI, Just got a 2nd hand mower. A Victa Model FA 001 AA92. I've got the Shell Lawn 2 Motor Oil to mix with some unleaded to make the 2 stroke blend. I just need to know if this mower takes a 25/1 or 40/1 mix? Not a member of any gardening forums and had an electric mower till now. Anyone know?

Yes I would hope it was new, just the things I've seen go on with auto repairs ..... OK I'll do a diagnostic again. Q. Is this the right filter for this model? If it fits and doesn't leak, it's right. I think you're looking more into it than you need to. As has already been mentioned, I'd put money on it being your fuel pump. So any filter will do?

Yes I would hope it was new, just the things I've seen go on with auto repairs ..... OK I'll do a diagnostic again. Q. Is this the right filter for this model?

It's important I get this right. Too much grease.... Here attached are new photos of the fuel filter with the grease removed. It would help if I got answers to the two questions I asked (without obstructing oil) before I put the car into the shop again and get the fuel pump changed.

The grease I can understand, but I'm talking about the large areas missing paint, mostly seen on the 2nd pic.

Hi, In the thread The Damage that low fuel can do we decided the best solution to the problem was to replace the fuel filter. This was done and the car ran like before, with good pickup, smooth acceleration and no power fluctuations. I'd had the 4A-FE engine checked out before buying and it was fine with low kms, just right for local city driving. This engine goes up the steepest hills on Sydney's North Shore at 1/8th throttle and at the speed limit. It's made for high torque when you need it. This return to normal driving lasted for about 3 days. During that time I didn't let the fuel go below 1/2 tank. (Original problem seems to have been caused by running near dry for about 15 minutes). Then the problems returned. Not nearly as bad as before initially, but in the following days it has been getting near to the same erratic power drop offs - this time at low and high speeds and without any extra load on the engine like a hill and not only when powering up sharply. Not a pleasant driving experience. I have to wonder about the part that I was supplied (see attached Photos front and back). The replacement fuel filter is described on the Tax Invoice as a T2330019195 fuel filter. The label on the filter makes it clear it's a Toyota filter. However I have to wonder about some things: 1) As seen in the pictures (taken just after installation), the filter has a lot of patches of bare paint, especially on the back and top. I took this as being the result of installation in a hurry. But is that corrosion on the bare metal? Is this a NEW fuel filter or a used part? 2) The serial number given on the invoice is slightly incorrect, it calls it a T2330016195 fuel filter, but the label says T2330016190. Just a five instead of the zero, does that make any difference? What matters is whether this is the right fuel filter for an AE92 Toyota Corolla with a 4A-FE engine? What do people think? NOTE: I've taken new photos after removing grease from the filter to provide a clearer view. They are attached below at Post #6.

So I've gone with this option. The repair shop did source a genuine Toyota fuel filter and charged $88 for it. The work was 1/2 an hour = $47. All up pretty reasonable as the car is now running fine again (touch wood). The full option of flushing the tank out has been quoted as at two hour job at just over $200. I'll get that done later when I can spare the car that long. These threads come up in Google searches, there was one on the same problem with the AE92 / fuel filter but it got deleted or something, so I hope this will serve others who get in the same predicament. It seems on balance to have been a pretty aged and so already fairly clogged fuel filter hitting the last straw when hit with a suddenly much higher concentration of pollutants due to low fuel. Pic of new fuel filter below. THANKYOU to CHA54 and all the other members who helped to clarify all this. Oh and out interest, is the part number the upper number on the green label: 23300 - 16190 or the lower number: 186100 - 2100 ?

Another Pic of the heater tap control line here. It is fastened by clip just to the left of the end of the blue line, does it need further fastening?

LH pic is the fuel rail (behind the engine)? Then the RH pic is of the fuel filter (from the side).

Well the REPCO is plastic, and the RYCO is solid metal construction I think. I'm not interested in skimping on a component that stands between the engine and a world full of crud! As well Bill Buckle (my closest Toyota approved mechanic, otherwise I'd be going to Chatswood) is coming up with one for $60, so I'll find out what make that is.

The only reference I have for this 4A-FE engine is the handbook, that leaves this whole quadrant blank. Please have a look at the attachments and tell me what looks like the fuel filter. I'm looking at getting a REPCO RFF41 type replacement filter for $39-95. The alternative is a RIKO for $99.95.

Hmm... Thanks for that. I'll look lower!

I THOUGHT this is the fuel filter then in the attached pic. APPARENTLY NOT. So still looking. Let's say the problem is from debris clogging this unit. The fuel line to the tank would need to be flushed too I suppose since the debris would have gotten through the sock filter over the fuel pump?

OK did the diagnostic: the ENGINE WARNING light is blinking twice a second endlessly. Nothing to report there it seems.....

The mech I spoke to quoted $200 just to change the filter & clear the fuel line. It pays to ask around.

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This model does have a computer diagnostic port (see pic below). How much could this tell a mechanic who has the interface to plug into it I wonder, for a '91 vehicle? And do non specialised Toyota mechs have the hardware / sw to do it?

Yeah this was a concern. I wonder which condition fits the symptoms "works OK until loading increases & then continues to work poorly until next cycle." Clogged fuel filter or damaged fuel pump? I get the sense the mechanics just want to change the filter. Then if that doesn't work they'll look at something else. I like to go into these situations knowing as much as I can myself.