S1LV3R
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Posts posted by S1LV3R
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lol. this one of the most interesting threads ive come across. i reckon it should deserve a prize hehe
u got a dude in ps thinking their pro, whilst a sorry case of minority - a toyota lemon!
i have been driving & own toyotas all my life (sad i know) and usually i would classify them as a lemon when they are 300,000kms or above. european cars may be more "reliable" and perhaps retain a better residual value, but we're talking about the exy euros like bmw and merc - most of them are thirsty anyway!
dont get me started on vw's. i know 5 owners of golf and passat vehicles just randomly stalling whilst driving (even on autos ), all of whom purchased their cars from 5 different dealers.
re the toyota lemon, blueaurion mate i really dont know what your options are. though i really dont like to watch TT & ACA, i always seem to be up to date with the lemon car stories. that chick with the lemon vw beetle and another with a holden got new cars, but had to pay $5000 more. thats only after going to the media and getting aca to chase them. i think its also harder in your case because everyone knows that toyotas are reliable (or at least retain the lowest external failure ratio)
this problem of random unreliability is not "uncommon" though. i know 2 production blocks of camry sportivo and aletza out of the vic plant that are plagued with problems. unfortunately one of them has claimed another friend of mine. till this day its only those 2 blocks of camry.
Buri_ZR6, i dont know how old u are, but to me u sound like a stereotypical p plater i come across every freakin day of my life, with cars that cost more than they can ever afford, and drive to prove their "status" on the rd. i throw rotten eggs at them whenever they cut me off. (nxt time if u see a guy in a camry throwing eggs, PM ME )
plz prove me wrong and just do the sensible thing, DRIVE responsibly
hi wixy,
u wouldn't happen to know the exact details of the problem-plagued production block of camry sportivo (i.e. engine, year, vin), would u?
i'm just quite curious...thx mate!
s1lv3r
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http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/16157238/
you'd think that this should've happened a long time ago but hey, at least it's starting to happen, rite?
:D
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http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/16157238/
you'd think that this should've happened a long time ago but hey, at least it's starting to happen, rite?
:D
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i thought the digital ones which beep at the set point were good. i know the analog ones which ding at the set point were not accurate since the handle which contains the gauge was always dropped. i heard that if you need to drive to the servo to get to one within 8 km of cold tyres or they heat up too much.
BP servos usually have a tyre inflator with digital reading that beeps (as kcorro indicated in previous post) and/or blinks when the desired pressure's been reached.
a few things that i would always keep in mind to keep the tyres from heating up too much on the way to the servo:
1. drive to a servo within 1 mile (1.6 km) of cold tyres
2. don't drive faster than 40kmh and try to minimise the stop n go
3. the colder the weather, the better
4. redo the tyres at least once in case it didn't "sense" the tyre pressure correctly the first time
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found some more info on the transmission issue.....
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camr...mission-issues/
and also alignment issue.....
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/camr...ems/#post525409
other woes people have put on the discussion board.....
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0c6927
a recall on the airbags.....
http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2007/toyota...alls/index.html
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmhPoBh0JJA
(also read the comments below it)
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=4170
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=6575
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=7691
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=7902
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hi all,
just wondering if anyone knows where to buy a 12v tyre inflator with digital reading like this one in sydney:
http://mll.webmichelin.com/mll/front/produ...t=CAE-INFSML-01
any info would be appreciated :D
S1LV3R
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TRY FILLING your tyres with NITROGEN. GO TO JAX, they will do it for $8 per tyre.
I got my tyres done by them.... they're fantastic. you wont have to fill or check them until about 6months.
hi leasaunce....
on the topic of filling your tyres with nitrogen, it means first you have to take all the air out first and then refill the tyres with nitrogen, rite?
and to do it, you'll have to elevate the car, which means the car (and the wheels, of course) would be off the ground, rite?
to my knowledge, once the wheels are off the ground, they are no longer "in-line" which means after filling the tyres with nitrogen, you would then need to redo wheel alignment...you agree?
did you have to redo wheel alignment after filling your tyres with nitrogen?
thanks,
S1LV3R
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Just wait for the v6 camry version - Aurion
i'm waiting for that and my free test drive :)
Sam - hows does Monday round 11 sound? It would great to see wot they have done. And i'll be more than happy to do a jermy clarkeson style review (not driving like jeremy, just be critical of everything!) and submit it to this forum
PM me if its all good.
for those thinking about getting a new camry / test driving it, be mindful of these:
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=4170
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=6575
and finally:
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=7691
just a heads-up :)
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There is no way you can stop those clonking sound. You can minimize the sound by replacing all the bushings,springs,shocks,etc.... But at the end of the day the sound will STILL Be there. Trust me :)
well im hoping the GEN 6 doesnt do this! :)
I think you are right. They have replaced the bearings, both sway bar bushes and the clonk is still there. Apparently the Toyota dealer said that thats how some Camrys are. Well I don't think its good enough. You would think something so loud and obvious would be solveable. Looks like this is my first and LAST Toyota. :(
they said "that's how some camrys are"??????
perhaps they'd care to explain why it's just SOME and not all?????
and why it was still released to production?????
this sort of thing makes you think...is it just a toyota australia thing or is it global? perhaps we should forward this to toyota japan and see what they have to say
seriously, guys...a lot of people are already under the impression that toyota's reputation on quality and reliability is slipping
i've got to echo IBJ's sentiment...i think my next car will be either a honda or a mazda
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hi everyone,
just wondering what u think about this...
i was doing about 40kmh just entering sydney cbd on george st coming from broadway when i slammed on the brakes and guess what...the front wheels LOCKED!!!
because of this my 2005 sportivo skidded and i almost crashed into the car in front of me
dealership: "we can't fault the abs and we'll just have to keep an eye on it"
your thoughts would be much appreciated....
S1LV3R
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The service people tell me the front suspension support bearings have failed and they are causing the clonks I have complained about. The car has less than 80,000kms on it. Is this a problem with this model? Will it recur?
We tend to get this "clonk noise" every now and then...especially turning reasonably sharp when leaving our driveway (at low speeds of course). Our car has 15k on the clock.
Im interested if this is the norm or not.
Brad
hi IBJ and Brad,
fyi, it's been happening to my sportivo ever since it was new. you'll get a better idea of the kinds of "suspension problems" i've had by reading these posts:
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=4170
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=6575
and this thing sort of gives me an idea of what it might be:
http://www.recalls.gov.au/view_recall_deta...l_ID_Auto=13352
perhaps we all should team up and submit a formal complaint to the consumer association...
S1LV3R
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Because the tyres have not been worn evenly. Have you noticed how all our roads are angled to the left and things like round abouts are always turning right? As a matter of fact we usually turn right faster than we turn left, (to get through before on coming traffic comes) . This puts extra wear on that tyre and suspension components there as all the weight is pushed towards that corner of the car and thus the outside left edge of the left front usually wear faster. The opposite is the case in the states. Pot holes, speed bumps, anything that sets the car unbalanced can ruin wheel alignment
Another thing that will affect wheel alignment will depend on how you park on the side of the streets. If you climb the curb and stay there, it puts extra stress on the suspension.
Now say you've rotated the tyres, the actual alignment of the suspension is still wrong even if you put brand new tyres on. Every time you jack the car up so that the whees are off the ground ruins the wheel alignment.
This is why they do the alignment after they take all the wheels back on, and on a flat surface.
Proper tyre care will be to do a wheel alignment and rotation every 5000-10000km. And the amount of km on a set of tyres depend on a lot of things too. Such as the stickiness of the tyre (soft/hard compound - harder it is the slower the wear but not as grippy), the way you drive (flying round corners, chirpies), the actual quality of the tyre, and the way you look after them. You can wear through a tyre with 10000 without doing burnouts or those if you have bad alignment. (Wears out the 1 edge of the tyre so the whole tyre needs to be scrapped)
Un4given, thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
let's do a brand new car scenario. so the car and the tyres are new. everything's new and fine; wheels are balanced and aligned; suspensions are aligned; the car's a straight liner on a flat surface.
the car's then driven for some distance and it's never parked with one side of the car on the curb, it's not driven hard around corners, perhaps a few spinning moments at the traffic lights and right turns. hence pretty average driving.
then the front and rear tyres are swapped (rotated), and now suddenly the car's pulling to the left.
why the actual alignment of the suspension is now wrong even if we put brand new tyres on...
if it's true that the front left tyre is the most worn out tyre, then the car should already be pulling to the left before the tyre rotation, am i wrong to say so...
if there was a car that had 16" left wheels and 18" right wheels, the car would not be a straight liner, would it...
S1LV3R
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What year is your Camry and how many kms has it done?
Have you done a wheel alignment and balance?
is it true that swapping rear and front tyres (tyre rotation) can cause the car to pull to the left / right???
:(
S1LV3R
this can happen,left tyres usually carry more wear then right,this is because the roads are angled more on left and are little bit rougher. i am not a strong believer of tyre rotation and didnt do it with first set of tyres on my rolla. got 52000kms out of them and they still had tread for another 10000kms i think.
all the best,
lauschie
hi lauschie...thanks for your reply :)
i can understand the thing about the roads being a bit rougher and angled more on the left. however i don't see how it affects the wheel alignment (pulling to the left) when the front and rear tyres are swapped?
i'm also aware that the front tyres of front wheel drive cars always wear out faster than the rear ones.
S1LV3R
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What year is your Camry and how many kms has it done?
Have you done a wheel alignment and balance?
is it true that swapping rear and front tyres (tyre rotation) can cause the car to pull to the left / right???
:(
S1LV3R
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i got the wheels when i bought the car.....so i can't really tell how much they would've been separately.....but i think i got it for a lot lower than i would've if i had bought them later.......but the tyres.....i later found out at Bob Jane that the tyres themselves.....cost like $350 each or so rrp......they were Bridgestones RE030 235/45R17....so i "think" i got a bargain.......but i think it would've added like $2000 on top of the price of the car.....the other alloys.....i sold them to my uncle.....for a very low amount....he's in brisbane.....so if anyone is in brisbane....they will see a camry altise....with very nice looking wheels.....
gimme like the a few letters from your plate.....and i'll see if i spot your car.....
ok thanks for the info :)
so they are 235/45R17...i thought it's 225/45R17 (Toyota Australia's website)
http://camry.toyota.com.au/toyota/vehicle/...827_642,00.html
S1LV3R
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hmm.....was it on a friday?.....if it was most probably was me.....
now how'm i supp'd 2 spot you.....?
i suppose it's a bit unfair since my sportivo looks pretty much like everyone else's :)
oh yeah...it's silver :P
btw if you don't mind telling me, how much did it cost you to get those vortex 17" alloys and where? and what did you do with the 16" alloys?
S1LV3R
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Reviving the thread.
Spotted a Gen 4.x Camry.
White.....
with no inner tailights on the boot. and a very "loud" bodykit.....
it will grab you attention when you see it.....
seen in the west....in parramatta area.
yes, let's revive this thread...
for u54mot,
lyons road, five dock
am i rite or am i rite? :D
S1LV3R
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The rear sway bar of both gen4 and gen5 have the same model numbers.
And the thicker the swaybar, the stiffer, the less amount of body roll you have. The whiteline sway bar on my car has made my car from understeering monster to a fun neutral/nearly oversteering toy lol. It handles way better than the stock car ever can be.
thanks for the info, guys
surprise 1: so 2005 camry sportivos did come with rear sway bar...does the specification say this? i must have missed it.
surprise 2: the stock rear sway bar is thin and hollow...i wonder why they even bother installing it (what's the thickness...17mm??)
Un4given, if you happen to know the model number of the stock rear sway bar, would you mind telling me...thanks!
anyway, does anyone know for sure whether installing a whiteline rear sway bar would affect the warranty?
S1LV3R
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thanks for your replies, leasaunce and un4given :)
my reason for considering toyota genuine stuff and having a toyota dealership install it is just in case something goes wrong in the future (knock on wood), they won't be able to even think about arguing that it's not covered by their warranty.
by the way 1, what's this huge difference between toyota genuine and whiteline rear sway bars...did someone actually compare the two?
by the way 2, and this is probably a silly question now, 2005 camry sportivos didn't come with rear sway bar, did they? :P
thanks again :)
S1LV3R
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hi all,
just wondering if anyone here ever had a rear sway bar (toyota genuine) installed and for how much (incl. labour)
i just got a quote $100 for the rear sway bar and $90 for the labour
any info would be appreciated
S1LV3R
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17K?? that should be still in excellent cond!
i think its all in your mind
shock absorbers usually starts to go crummy around 80-100k. So you're still in the SAFE position :)
leasaunce,
what you're saying is true as most people don't get shock absorber problems before 80-100k.
however, i've had bad experience with my supposedly-all-good new car, remember?
read the topic i started a while ago (link below) and you'll understand where i'm coming from with this <_<
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=4170
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mine did loosen up a bit at around that time. Now I am flogging the poor things with low springs. Get a rear sway bar and that will help you ;)
perthcamry, what exactly do you mean by "loosen up"...did you actually have Toyota look at it and what did they say?
about the rear sway bar, does it really help and which brand? approximate cost of that plus labor?
thanks... :)
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What year is your Camry and how many kms has it done?
Have you done a wheel alignment and balance?
hi perthcamry,
2005 and about 17K.
i just had it serviced about a month ago on about 15K and at that time according to the dealership, wheel alignment and balance were not necessary :)
S1LV3R
Please help - which fuse to connect DRL to?
in Camry Club
Posted
Hi guys,
Just wondering if anyone can tell which fuse I should connect DRL to. Fuse 'IG2' has been suggested to me but I'm still not confident that 'IG2' would be the correct one.
Thanks!