Mole

I remember my first P plater car... 2001 Celica, not exactly a huge powerhouse but it still cost me a HUGE amount in insurance as it was a 'sports car'. Expect a large amount for insurance if your put on as the main driver. Wouldn't be surpised if it was towards the 2 grand mark.

First job out of uni better be friggin good as well, as if I was paying any more in repayments for my Golf GTI or if I made a little bit less (I'm on plenty) it wouldn't be affordable.

Oh and the waiting lists are fairly long :)

From toymods:

Following our successful first club-run Motorkhana in November, we are now opening entries for our first series event for 2012. Note, we will now be referring to this event as the TECCWA Red Mist Autokhana Series 1 2012 to better reflect it's status.

NOTE: There have been several changes in terms of calculations for penalties, engine modifiers, and cost/discounts, so please read the Supplementary Regulations where this has been documented.

The event documentation can be found below:

Event Supplementary Regulations

Event Entry Form

Pre-Event Scrutineering Checklist

Entrant List

AASA Club Racing Licence Application

The TECCWA Red Mist Autokhana Series 1 for 2012 will be held over 6 Sundays from January through to June 2012 at the Tiger Kart Club's rear car park, just behind Barbagallo Raceway and incorporating a morning and afternoon session with the following tentative dates:

• Jan 29th
  
• Feb 26th
  
• Mar 25th
  
• Apr 22nd
  
• May 13th
  
• Jun 24th
  

The event will be run under the National Competition Rules of the Australian Auto-Sport Alliance (AASA) and you will require an AASA licence to compete, which is in addition to the event entry fee. AASA license applications can be sent with your event entry and must be received by the Friday prior to the event to assist with smooth running on the day.

As some may already have CAMS racing licenses and have asked, I have confirmed with AASA that CAMS racing licenses for Speed and Non-Speed will be accepted for Motorkhana competition. We will need to see current licenses on the day as part of scrutineering.

Please refer to the Supplementary Regulations for details for the series, as we have implemented a cost strategy where multiple event entries attract a discount, and there is further details with regards to substitutions, refunds and qualifications for prizes, etc.

Payments can be made to the TECCWA bank account - we will accept event entry fees, AASA licence payments ($50 and valid for 12 months) and TECCWA membership payments ($50/yr for a full membership - contact Clint on 0403 733 054 or limeglaze@hotmail.com for membership details):

Bank: Westpac

BSB: 036037

A/C: 363299

A/C Name: Teccwa

Use your surname and "AMx" or "PMx" as per your timing preference and number of events you are entering.

Your car will need to pass Scrutiny - Please check the supplementary regulations for requirements, but as a general guideline - tyres (anything goes so long as no exposed canvas/constructions are visible), brakes, suspension, body and interior fittings will be assessed before you can compete, and you will personally need enclosed shoes, long pants and sleeves while competing, a helmet with suitable rating/specification with convertible/soft top car drivers also requiring a full faced helmet. Unlicensed cars are also welcome - the onus is on you as to how you deliver them to the event.

Drinks and a BBQ menu will be available on the day so please bring some extra cash to cover your purchases.

In an effort to maintain the bitumen surface, we will employ the following conditions:

NO REVERSE GEAR - if you make an error while on a course up and need reverse - you will be issued with a "wrong way" and timed accordingly - please refrain from any form of static or aggressive burnout.

NO CLUTCH KICKS OR HANDBRAKING prior to corners to unsettle a car for drifting - sorry guys, this is not a drift event and no allowance will be given to anyone performing these actions. Progressive powerslides out of corners are fine - again, we are trying to protect the bitumen in order to keep a good relation with the venue owners.

For more info on this event and next year's event series, contact Gene on 0422 551 204 or Clint on 0403 733 054

Regards

Gene Schneider

TECCWA Motorsport Coordinator

Anyone interested should contact Gene (details above), also it would be nice for you to post on the Facebook page: http://www.facebook....02665423109945/

Thank you thank you! Sounds good maybe someone with decent photo skills. Get a damn zorst!

Hope you had a good Chrissy btw.

Had a good chrissie so far, as for exhaust... heres why it still hasn't got one:

http://goapr.com.au/products/apr_exhaust_mk6_20tsi.html

Scroll down to the bottom and look at the turboback price. Its the one im definitely getting just need the coin.

Looking sexc as usual, we need to do a 'team red' photoshoot or something!

Fairly typical nowadays isnt it. Shame really.

Hey Boys and Girls - im back again ... upon popular request ive made this quick meet and greet to put some faces to some new names.

Tell me what u think .

Date: Sunday 11/12/11

Forecast: Few showers possible. Min 18 Max 29

Time: 12.00pm

Meet Place: Curtin Carpark will relocate to undercover carpark if it showers.

Map: TBC

Attending:

1. Cypher

2. Mole

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

Just a simple meet and greet with everyone to catch up and newbie friendly as always.

Cheers - Cypher

Ill pop on down, Supra is in the shop tho.

You have a 4A-C, rip it out and put a 4AGE in, profit.

Your grounds most likely aren't good enough, make sure that its metal on metal - you will need to grind away the paint or it wont ground properly. Ideally you drill a hole through the body and put a brand new big ***** nut and bolt through to ground.

It could also be inadequate shielding on your cables or those crappy sony amps.

Different mufflers will have different sounds, power difference between the two will be negligible.

As the mufflers burn in they will actually change their sound just a little bit and the smell is not unusual during the first month or so of use.

I trust you'll be coming to the Dyno day on the 3rd to show off all the extra wasps that pipe will breed?

Do eeeeet!

Shiny red.

Need moar low haha! Doesn't seem to matter how low you make a car everyone wants it lower... "But its dragging its chassis rails along the ground!"..."If its not dragging its oil pan its not low enough!".

Looks much better lower, so when you getting a dump back exhaust? Turbo cars make sooo much more power and response when you let them breath.

If the engine is cactus and needs to be rebuilt it'd be cheaper for you to get another Celica. Or if you can do it yourself just a new engine and pop that in.

Just a bit more on my experience with them after my track day on Sunday.

Rear end had great grip, no problem around corners or off the line, will be getting some on the front before next track day for sure.

Recommend these to anyone.

Am now the owner of a pair of 225/50/16 RE002's on the rear of my Supra. $189 ea. fitted from my local Bridgestone dealer.

As they are just on the rear I cant comment on things like steering feel or understeer, but grip accelerating into corners has improved dramatically over what I had before (Potenza GIII's... old as hell!). I never had traction problems in a straight line so thats unchanged. Comfort is slightly improved, but again to be expected over the old tech GIII's

Only comment so far is that they are bloody soft, I dont expect them to last terribly long, but then again, thats what you get with these sorts of tyres.

Also noticed they where made in Indonesia, no more Made in Australia or Japan :(, prolly accounts for the price drop.

While its been wet recently, have only driven in the dry so far.

How big did you get your exhaust? What sort of mufflers etc?

Good filters those, I have a K&N pod on mine...

Methinks we need to catch up already, been ages.

Hmmm heres a load of my personal opinion.

Its going to be auto no matter what, and both rebuilding and a engine swap cost huge dosh. Considering your spending huge dosh and have a auto, your best option is some form of forced induction, either a baby turbo running small boost or a wee supercharger (I think there are kits?) with a few supporting mods. Your main prob is that auto, its much more difficult to keep it in its power band, being a small engine, by adding some boost you can widen out the torque band and it will be much less noticeable and more fun.

So either that, or buy another car, which I suppose would be more 'sensible'.

Lucky for you, I kept my crashed Celica's books (2001 model even). Here's what the service book has written from 180ks on, each one is different, I've shortened each one a little (details are too long):

180,000k (minor 'plus'):

Engine

Inspect engine drive belts

Replace Engine Oil

Replace Oil Filter

Inspect Cooling and heater systems

Inspect exhaust pipes and mountings

Ignition System

Inpsect battery

Fuel System

Inspect air filter

Inspect... some other stuff

Chassis and Body

Inspect loads of stuff, like 15 things

190,000k (Minor):

Just the usual stuff, much less then 180,000k.

200,000k (Major and LAST logbook service):

Engine

Inpsect engine drive belts

Replace engine oil

Replace engine oil filter

Inspect cooling and heater system

Replace engine coolant

Inspect exhaust pipes and mountings

Ignition System

Replace spark plugs.

Inspect Battery.

Fuel System

Replace air filter

Inspect some stuff (same as 180k)

Inspect charcoal canister

Chassis and Body:

....even more then 180k, the list is HUGE. All inspections.

It also recommends at 200k if its been driven hard or in a bad environment to change the manual gearbox oil.

I read as far back as 120k, which is as far as I still have, and there was no timing chain replacement. That said, if its inspected I would not be surprised at 200k if it needed replacing and would anyways. Yes, there is a timing chain, makes no difference, they snap too, Magna anyone?

Warm hand wash with soap. If it starts deteriorating or gets gross, replace. They're pretty cheap.

I would be much more worried about how it got like that! Would of needed a fairly sizable front on collision!

Replace it yes, but I would be looking for even more damage.

Don't suppose you got a black one from Perth did you...

Edit: Never mind, I saw your other posts. Yes, replace away...

Got my car back after getting it raised a little and an alignment.

Rear Toe Before: -10.3mm, Rear Toe After: -0.7mm

Hilariously bad!

Been driving extra hard lately? Might have cooked your transmission oil. Check the levels etc. if your running low / without oil it'll just eat itself and need replacing. If its cooked it'll be 'ok' after a little while but not as good as normal and should be replaced, it'll be pitch black if you cooked it.

Which cooler did you go with?

One option I'm considering for the mid-engined car I'm building is using the TRD cooler. But as the engine will be at the back and the radiator up front, I'm trying to avoid running the oil 3m to the heat exchanger in the radiator. Got any hints for oil cooler selection?

They're a little expensive, but B&M make a range called Hi-Tek which have a small thermo fan on them (and a termostat) which should stop you having to run it all the way forwards to air... I'm getting one to handle the extra heat my built up transmission will generate once its finished and it will be mounted under the car and not in front.

Little update, I have been unemployed for the last 3 months so havent done much except a few trim pieces, cleaning a few things up, mostly interior stuff I can do for free or next to.

However today I got a call that I got a job I interviewed for yesterday. I also got this in the mail...

Oh yes, there will be high flow. The exact specs for it have been lost in the ages of time, but it looks to be a '60 trim' or equivalent. It looks a bit too big to be a 57. Its in immaculate condition spins freely, 0 shaft play, not even much carbon buildup. Has apparently got 5000kms on it but it looks like it has less!

Going to get the exhaust housing ceramic coated, save up a few bucks from new job and get it in asap.