kizz

nice!!

and this wouldn't fit a 2ZZ would it? :(

You'll be fine with your setup. I'm yet to work out why people think they need to spend 10 grand before going to the track, just get out there and have fun! With the TRD black pads don't be surprised if they give up after 4/5 laps.

As for oil weight I use 10w40.

Thanks.

Why do you say they'll give up on 4/5 laps? :S

Thanks DJKOR,

No I'd definitely not be out there to beat records, just out their to test how my car can handle. I don't think i'd be on the track regularly, depends how the first one goes and how much I enjoy it I guess :P

I've got front and back TRD Black Pads, and I've got Penzoil Heavy Duty Brake Fluid (haven't used it yet), but I think I will go buy either TRD Brake Fluid or the Motul Fluid to be sure.

Can anyone please give some advice on that viscosity oil for a 2ZZ? Just a good quality 5W40, 10W40 will suffice?

I'm not sure what to expect on a race day, and not sure exactly how hard I can or will push my car, so the last thing I want to do is take it out their and push it too hard, and warp a disc rotor or damage my suspension :P I honestly don't know the limits of either so of course I'd rather be safer then sorry.

Terryo,

Yep car sounds and feels good as usual. Always checking everything over, oil, spark plugs, filters.

Some pointer would be great actually! The only track experience I've had is on those V8 Supercar's. My GF was very nice and bought me 5 laps as Eastern Creek, and it was unreal! - although scared the hell out of me twice when I almost slid off the road :D The techniques on there i'm guessing would be the same anywhere hey? Approach, Entry, Apex, Exit etc?

Hi all,

I've just recently had Koni Adjustable Shock and King's Super Low's installed, and i'm really happy with them. The next things I'm also planning on is putting on a set of DBA Slotted or Gold Rotors, and using TRD Brake Pads.

Becuase there's no where really around town I can push my car hard and see how it really handles, I was thinking of taking it to the nearest race track for a day.

Just wondering if you guys think my suspension and brake set up will be fine for this, and what other things should I consider, such as I've seen Mobile 10W50/60 oil for racing. Is this something I should consider?

Cheers.

Personally I would never touch a car rental or Fleet car I know this especially from personal experience when I was an Engineer for the Government I was sent on long trips. I would thrash the living guts out of them to the point they reeked of brake fluid hahah :P

I may of even swapped some Aurion parts, maybe,,,, hahaha!

If it's in A condition get RAA to go over it thoroughly before you buy it and knock as much as the price as possible!

I'd have to agree about the worry about people thrashing it..

Hi Guys,

Just a quick one, i'm buying the DBA Slotted Rotars from Autobarn for our Corolla Sportivo's, and also the TRD Brake Pads front and rear.

I just want to confirm that even under hard constant braking, the DBA slotted rotars are sufficient enough to handle that heat?

Also, i'm not getting the rear disc's upgraded, only putting in TRD Brake pads. Will these be subject to warping under hard braking? Or, because these do such little it wont matter.

Thanks in advance.

Paul.

im interested in doing the same, but not putting TRD pads in the rear, just leaving them, i want slotted front rotors n TRD pads, how much u paying for the lot????

Hey mate, sorry for not replying sooner.

Autobarn quoted me:

$229 Front L

$229: Front R

And then just bought the TRD Black Pads for $210 off ebay.

You need to define the circumstances which you define as constant hard braking when compared to what you will be putting them through. They handle quite a high load, but as with any rotors, giving them sufficient cooling and ample opportunity to cool down is the most crucial part in preventing them from warping.

Hi DJKOR,

For me personally, hard constant braking would probably be rare if at all.

I guess it's more of a hypothetical, and just wanting to get peoples thoughts on the performance of these disc's as they've been recommended a fair bit here.

Hi Guys,

Just a quick one, i'm buying the DBA Slotted Rotars from Autobarn for our Corolla Sportivo's, and also the TRD Brake Pads front and rear.

I just want to confirm that even under hard constant braking, the DBA slotted rotars are sufficient enough to handle that heat?

Also, i'm not getting the rear disc's upgraded, only putting in TRD Brake pads. Will these be subject to warping under hard braking? Or, because these do such little it wont matter.

Thanks in advance.

Paul.

I did so the other night, but i'm guessing the ECU would be reset as I had the battery out for over 3 hours... Correct me if i'm wrong tho please.

I would be more than certain that your ECU was reset then. See how it all feels after a few hundred kilometres of driving.

After a reset the car will feel nice and crisp for a hundred or so km. But for the next hundred or so it will feel like a dog, but comes good again after that phase; just need to ride it out. Its part of the learning procedure the ECU goes through.

Thanks alot for the info.

I've been driving it as hard as I can without coming to the attention of the cops, but yes I guess all I can do it wait for a couple hundred Km's and see how it is then.

Have you reset you ECU yet?

I did so the other night, but i'm guessing the ECU would be reset as I had the battery out for over 3 hours... Correct me if i'm wrong tho please.

Thanks.

1. I feel that under 3000 revs it feels "normal" but when you hit 4000 revs that is when it really picks up

2. Yeah the sucking noise is normal and happens with my TRD CAI as well

Congratulations on fitting the TRD pod onto a facelift sportivo! I don't know how you did it cause I couldn't do it without taking the foglight off. I have a K&n pod filter now and that works like a treat

Thanks mate!!

It wasn't easy by any means though. I had to remove the fog light, then put the pod filter up, but I had to really push it up, then take advantage of the flexible rubber and bend the filter from where the intake tube goes in, THEN quickly screw in the fog light. Now the filter sits on the fog light, maybe a bit tightly but it's nothing that I feel would be wrecking it in anyway. The only thing i had in mind was the hot air coming off the fog lights going into the engine :(

You will always lose power down below 3000rpm with a CAI. But from 4000rpm onward it will be better than stock. It will also take a bit of time for the ECU to adjust to the CAI, and then it will be better again. The hiss is normal, even on a stock car if you listen carefully.

Gav.

Hi Gav, thanks for that info.

So, would that also meaning below 3000rpm = enhanced fuel economy? :P :P

As for number one, I hear the TRD intake is better down low and you should be getting gains as such. It could be your mind playing tricks on you, but I guess someone else with the TRD intake should enlighten you on this.

For the second question, there is nothing wrong there. I actually like that sound a CAI/SRI makes when you stop the engine. You pretty much explained the sound yourself. It is one last gasp for air really, but you hear it differently because the ignition to the engine is cut and you just hearing the air being sucked past the closed butterfly valve in the throttle body.

Hi DJ, thanks for the reply.

I have the pod sitting tightly behind the fog light. God knows how I managed to make it fit, but i pushed it up high and it sits nicely. I wonder if maybe a dyno tune would be good?

And yes, thanks for clearing up that last bit of air going through. Guess it makes sense that there's no other noise to disguise it.

Thank you.

EDIT: Also, temps were around 26-27 today, so I think i'll wait till tonight till it cools down and then really give it a boot.

Hey all,

I bought a TRD CAI intake from ebay the other week, and finally installed it, but now just have a couple of questions I dont feel have been answered in other threads.

1. It could just be me, but I almost feel as if the car doesn't pick up as much. Second gear, screaming all the way up to lift used to feel awesome, although now it's louder it feels a bit like it's taking a bit longer to get up there.. Has anyone had this before?

2. When I turn the car off, the CAI sounds like it takes one last gasp for air, but it makes a weird sound when it does this (Like a hiss). Does anyone know what this is? Normal?

I followed the instructions on here and on the Installtion papers that the CAI came with..

Thanks.

Hi Guys,

I'm considering S/C my 05 S'tivo, but instead of just slapping one on, i'd like to work on the internals first, and save my pocket (hopefully) in the future from bits breaking under the pressure from a S/C and high revving.

Also, say if I leave is N/A, would the parts needed differ, or less of a quality part do?

Also, any links would be very much appreciate!

I know things like Brakes, suspension, are a must, and also a High Performance Clutch/Flywheel wouldn't go astray, but what about engine components? I'm not a mechanic so I don't know all the parts to an engine.

What do you think?

Thanks!

Awesome info!

I just contacted my local suspension dealer for a Kings S/L + Koni Shocks set up, but also asked if he recommended getting any Strut/Sway Bars, so, I think i'll keep this thread for when i do buy one! :D

How'd you go though? Did you decide which one you wanted?

I think personally I'd prefer one with 4 points, not the 2 like the white one you have there.

The reason why not many choose to upgrade the rear ones is because

1)They don't do much in these cars

2)The jdm options are fricken expensive.

A set of decent pads is all the rear end needs.

Yeah, I though that would be the case.

Just a bit of info anyway so we all know our options :)

Thx.

I was searching through the forums and thought i'd share this bit of info as I am wanting to upgrade my Brakes along with my suspension.

I read on a thread about getting the Front Rotars upgraded at Disc Brakes Australia (DBA) PART NUMBERS: (only stock front rotors)

DBA 759SL Street Series Slotted Left-Hand

DBA 759SR Street Series Slotted Right-Hand

But, if you want to get the rear ones done as well, have a look at: http://www.nengun.com/dixcel/sd-brake-rotor - they have the slotted brake rotors for the front and back for ZZE123. I'm not sure how much better/worse they are then the ones from DBA, but point is you can buy the rear rotors which will offer better performance than the stock ones.

Cheers.

Well i just thought we could start this topic that way we could get in touch, share ideas etc.

Hey mate,

Just thought i'd say hi. I was just in the ACT helping my GF move down for work. Very cold tho! I'll be joining her at the end of the year as well.

I've got my list of mods I wanna do to my S'Tivo :P Just bought the TRD CAI off ebay, so that's 1 down :D

Hi Guys,

Just received this email from Castle Hill Toyota reference some TRD Parts that I asked to get a pricing for.

They're for the 2005 Sportivo ZZE123 / 2ZZGE

Thought I'd share them with you all:

Hi Paul,

Thank you for your enquiry.

Prices below are inclusive of GST.

All items ex Japan except for exhaust manifold which we have in stock at a special price.

Regards

James Sloane

Castle Hill Toyota

2 Victoria Ave

Castle Hill NSW 2154

Ph: +61 2 8831-8831

Fax + 61 2 8831-8820

www.chtoyota.com.au

Misc Parts:

TRD Brake Pad "Black" Front: 04491-ZT300 $175.00

TRD Brake Pad "Black" Rear: 04492-ZT300 $175.00

TRD Clutch Cover: 31210-AE100 $525

TRD Clutch Disc Sports Facing: 31250-AE952 $310.00

TRD Mechanical LSD: 41301-ST804 $1795

TRD Light Weight Flywheel: 13405-TF200 $11795

- Genuine flywheel bolt(Part No.90910-02103)×8 pcs Required. $12.20 each

TRD Exhaust Manifold: 17100-ZE200 correct number 17100-ZE210 $880.00 IN STOCK REDUCED TO CELAER

TRD High response muffler Ver.S: 17400-ZE240 WILL NOT FIT SOUTH AFRICAN MODELS

TRD Lead Set (the one you guys stock): Is there one for my model? no leads used on your car

TRD Cold Air Intake: $550.00

TRD Sportivo Suspension Full Set:

Shock Absorber Set: 48030-ZE210 $1100.00

Coil Spring Set: 48130-ZE210 $695.00

Engine Parts:

Description Part No. Code Qty required

Piston, w/pin 13101-TF200 C 4 $750.00 each

(High compression piston(Compression ratio:Approx. 13.0), Forged type, 70g

lighter than OE) (Must use in set)

Ring set, piston 13011-TF200 C 4 $95.00 each set

141kw at the flywheel.

At the wheels, its a fair bit less. Some cars only crack 100-110kw at the wheels.

As SuperDave said, just a few small mods and the car can get close to 125kw at the wheels, but some cars are different and wont respond to the mods as well. My road car pulled 120.4kw at the wheels with just an intake and exhaust.

Spend more money on real mods, and the results start to come, and they are fantastic

Oh right, thanks for clearing that up.

Hey guys,

I recently bought a 2003 sportivo and i'm new on the toyota scene, first thing i wanted to clarify was that it had a 2ZZ engine?

I've saved up a small amount of money ($4000) and i want to spend it wisely, I was thinking the following;

-Injen CAI - I did a little research, it seems most of the cai designs are similar, are there any cai that IS outstanding over the others?

-CES catback -I'm going with this option only because it seems to be the popular choice, any reasons why i should go another route?

-Headers - Here's where i need your help, which header is the best bang for buck? Also which headers gives out the most gains?

-Chip - Is there some sort of tune or unit that's popular? Details on this would be great!

I'm not looking to do any internal mods, so the rest of the money will be spend on a set of coilovers and braces.

I'm aiming to hit the 125-130kw mark, Is this realistic?

Any help and pricing would be appreciated, look forward to hearing your wise responses!

thanks guys

Yes, if it is a Sportivo it will have a 2zz in it.

CAI - Its a pipe with a filter on the end, TRD, Injen, CES are all good.

Catback - The CES is a quality made unit.

Manifold - Just go ported stock manifold.

ECU - Can't 'chip' it, need to replace it completely or use a piggy back. PowerFC with my harness (link) will allow the car to drive like stock with full control of the engine. Otherwise there is the Vipec ECU with the conversion harness being made by 'CHA54'. And for piggy backs there is the Emanage Ultimate and the PowerChip. Not too many members have replaced/piggy backed their ECU on here, but the full replacement ECUs are the better option if funds allow. Also a tuner that knows how to use it is more important.

125kW is achievable with those mods.

I thought Sportivo's came as 141kw?

NGK spark plugs, Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 oil... use the Toyota oil filter. The cost is only marginally more than the Ryco one and it's a better design and fit, as well as being slightly larger.

Thanks.

I ended up getting the NGK plugs with Penrite 10 - 40W Oil. They didn't have the one you suggested.

Will see how it goes anyway.

Cheers.

Hi All,

I've owned my Sportivo for about 2 weeks now, just wanting to know what you guys recommend for good quality spark plugs and Oil + filter?

Cheers.

Paul

Hey everybody,

Just had a question for the members who drive 05 sportivo's, when you are on the freeway doing 100km, where are your revs sitting?

Mine are between 3000rpm to 3500rpm, and it is quite loud to be honest.

Is this normal or mine running hi revs?

Could it be my tires that are doing this?

Any advice or feedback would be great.

Thanks

Denz

Hey Mate,

I thought the same thing about my S'Tivo when I took it for it's first long test drive up to cairns. Sitting on 100/110 is was up around the mark, but to give you an idea about fuel economy, we still managed to get 650kms out of the tank, and that wasn't even with the light on yet, so say maybe in total 700kms highway driving. To me, it sounded a bit loud as well, and I thought "man, this thing needs another gear", but i'm guessing because it's a high reving engine, driving @ 100/110 @ 3500rpm isn't going to be stressing it at all.

I've got nankang tyres on as well.