hixsta

I have to brag...

Picked up my new 2008 Touring Aurion today and am very excited about how good of condition it is. The previous owner didn't even clean up for sale so I had the privlidge of seeing it reborn after a good wash.

It has about 16,800 genuine kms on it....not a mis-print! Even smells new inside (not new car in a can smell either).

Couple of questions...

What is best for bringing back slightly faded black plastics on the outside? (i.e.Window wiper panel, underneath spoiler etc)

What's best used for chrome strips?

I'll post some picks after I finish polishing it, gonna treat ot like Ted Bulpit looked after his Kingswood!

Not super new, but I haven't been on for a while.

Picking up my 2008 Aurion Touring tomorrow with only 19,000kms on the clock!!

After snapping a camshaft on my 2003 Camry V6 with near 200,000kms on the clock...sludging issue!

Very excited - let's hope it does me proud for another 180,000kms or more (and no sludge!).

fretlix most front wheel drive cars with a few kilowatts will kick the steering around under heavy acceleration. They say the reason they stopped TRD production because it is too hot to handle for the average (non-racing) driver.

As for headroom, I'm 6'4" and drove a 2003 V6 Camry for years, never had to use the sun visor but ultimately you have to drive with the seat further back, teenage style! Oh, and double check that blind spot behind the rearview mirror when pulling out into traffic ...ooops sorry, didn't see you!

Back to "pulling-left"... I'm a new Aurion owner (pick up my 2008 tomorrow-excited!) I drove about 10 over the last 2 weeks and found that most have this problem. Some worse than others and one 2010 ATX seemed to have very little. For the most part if you are on a piece of road that has no camber, it generally does not pull. However I did find it annoying as my '03 V6 Camry was always straight as a die. The Aurion I have bought the problem seemed fairly minimal, but it has only done 19,000kms. My question to everyone is:

Does it get worse over time? As tyres and bushes wear?

For anyone's information. Orginal keyless FOB on EBay NOW for $43!! ends in 7 hours!

I hope my old owner finds the spare for my touring...

Mate I was just thinking about this thread today. Mine used to be a Autumn/Spring problem making me belive it is a condensation issue.

Now it's ALL THE TIME :(

It's even worse, than an old car. At least old cars the other 3 doors stay locked when you unlock the drivers and hop in!

Any updates from NeilC... our last great hope?

Go NeilC! - I am sure that others who follow this thread along with myself, appreciate your ongoing efforts and commentary on this common problem. Thanks HEAPS!

Mate, awesome info there. Thanks.

For those not so tech savvy, where exactly is the box i need to smack with something solid.

Cheers again

I believe it is a humidity issue within the locking mechanism

Right on cue it's started happening again. The weather is finally cooling here in Perth and sure enough. ~Blip~Blip~

The quickest way I get it to work is to open the driver door and flick the locking latch back and forth a few times. Doesn't always fix it but works better than slamming the door in disgust!

Hello All,

I have a Toyota Camry 2004 model and I'm experiencing the central locking problem. This car has served me good for the pass 5 years and this problem has just started. The problems are as follows:

1. I can central locks all for doors but when unlocked the door from inside only the driver side is unlocked not the other three doors.

2. When using the remote control the driver door is unlocked but not the other three doors.

3. The car will not response to the remote control i.e the light flashes 2 times (from memories) and will not locked the doors.

It is an intermittent problems and the car becomes good for a few hours and than problem started again.

Anyone with suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thank you!!!

Haver you taken the car to the dealer to have it checked?

Hello RonnyBoy,

Since the car is out of warranty 2 years ago I couldn't bother to take it to Toyota I know it's will cost an arm and leg to get this fixed. That's why I try this forum to see I can get any free help!!

That's what we all are on here doing. Toyota Dealers are a rip off!

My latest is: Still no locking problems through the heat of Summer, I am sure it'll be back when the weather changes again in mid-Autumn.

Mine's 2005 Camry Altis. I have the same problem for 3 months now. Occasionally, I can not use either the remote or the door-lock button on driver side panel to lock all 4 doors, and the hazards light flashes twice and horn beeps twice. However, I can lock the car if the other 3 doors are locked manually by the lock switch on each door first.

Mines gone away (until next Autumn). Every autumn and spring in Perth when there's a bit of cold dew around.

Anyway the way I have had the best results is to jiggle the actual inside door lock on the inside of the driver's door. This makes me beleive it's a fault with the actual door lock switch on the inside of driver's door.

Hope that helps!

1) If in the event the remote cell is dead or low power, it would definitely open the doors but, the emitted frequency is not powerful enough to actually perform the close function. Weired, but, its true, when you press the button on your remote to say, close the doors, the battery is weak, so the emitted frequency is low, but, still received by the receiver on car, so the receiver is clever enough to think that, the command was to close the doors, but, when it looks into its database for the frequency match, it cannot match the numbers and thus it flashes the light twice and chirps twice to indicate that, the message was received but, I cannot process it.

++++ My FOB key is brand new++++

2) Some people also mentioned that lock function also doesn't work from the master control ie. drivers side controls and also with the keys. Possible reasons are, when the situation 1)(above) occurs, and if by any chance you tried your keys to lock all the doors, the electrical system actually splits itself from the actual mechanism. Results of electrical charge variance. As an effect, doors do not lock from the master control and with the keys as well. Only if you are lucky, the drivers door will lock with the keys, but, rest of the three doors are clue less as they are no longer connected to central bus. The situation in commonly know as Trip system (Trip Wiring), the kind of system used in most houses these days, to prevent short circuit situations.

++++ Great info, I will add that in this situation the ONLY way you can lock the car is by hand locking all four doors like back in the dark ages (pre-1980s)++++

Excellent post vickyd18. Seems like Toyota probably haven't got a clue either, but I am sure they'll still take our money whilst they 'experiment' the solution. ;-)

As someone suggested earlier I have managed to get the car to lock with the FOB without the "door open" chirps by:

- opening the drivers door and jiggling the inside lock switch back and forth (one with the red sticker on it).

Makes me think that it is a problem with the inside door lock sensor and not the little black door closed sensor on the main body of the car.

If someone charged me $550 and it still wasn't fixed I would be currently thinkin of a way to insert my Camry sideways in their ....

However, my central locking starting playing up and I've been experiencing the very same symptoms everyone has been describing. I have to lock the Camry with my key now. Any ideas?

Mate the stuff I described above beeps even if I try and lock with the key. I have to actually lock every door by hand!

What you may have is a simple FOBKey battery failure as they are only supposed to last 4 - 5 years AND Toyota charge about $70-80 for a new FOB key. They cannot be opened and replaced, Grrrr. I've done that one too, the salesman said your lucky it lasted 5 years!

Hope that helps...

BTW: my fault came back again a month ago, did it almost every afternoon and it has now disappeared again and has been working fine for the last 2 weeks. Driving me crazy!

2010 UPDATE

It went away it's own!

...for about a year and now it's back again?!? What's with that Toyota??!!

1.press fobkey button when unlocked...

2.gives off beeps as if there is a door left open.

3.check all doors

4.does it again

5.you can lock all four doors by hand, then the fobkey will unlock OK!

6.button inside drivers door does same thing, even when driving!

If anyone knows what to do, please help...

Thanks.

A

Looks like the issue has returned ;)

Its on and off again... had a relative of mine contact his friends at Toyota.

At first they said it may have been the Keyless entry remote, after which I told them that the issue was also present sometimes if I tried to lock the doors while driving, so that ruled out the remote right away.

The guys said it may have to do with the Drivers side door. They went on to say if the alignment was out, that that could be causing the issue I am experiencing, because it's going to clock, and when it can't it just beeps. Either that, or the motor on it is dying.

I'm going to try and remove the door trim and grease it up. I'll let you guys know how I go, although I may not get around to doing it until the weekend.

I'll take some shots as I go along... I'm sure it may help someone in the future.....

Cheers!

Hi Macri,

I have the exact same problem on my 2003 Altise V6! It seems to be intermittent too, with sometimes I don't have a problem for a week. It can't be related to the door sensors as the interior light goes out just like normal. I used a new iphone on an old radio transmitter and the iphone came up with an interference warning so I thought I had solved it when it was OK for over a week! Now it has returned and I no longer plug in my iphone to the 'itrip' radio transmitter to play my tunes through the radio.

Did you manage to solve your problem? Please help me with an update on yours.

Thanks, hixsta