Ronnyboy

On 9/26/2021 at 5:43 PM, Mike2002 said:

Ah, never mind. Glad you got it all sorted!

yep glad its all fixed

On 9/3/2021 at 10:06 PM, campbeam said:

Thank you for the update.

Interested to know whether the alternator was replaced or repaired and whether you replaced other parts.

Yes the Alternator was replaced with a Reconditioned Bosch brand as Toyota no longer sell these alternators (Toyota Part number 270600H080)

The other parts were also replaced (i,e Water pump, belt tensioner, fan belt, thermostat and coolant etc) but it was the alternator that was making the noise.

I have added the Toyota genuine part numbers that were replaced below; 

1 - 270600H080 ALT ASSY W/REG 380N (No longer sold by Toyota)
2 - 1610028041 PUMP ASSY, WATER
3 - 9091602598 BELT,V-RIBBED
4 - 1662028090 TENSIONER ASSY
5 - 0888980077 SUPER LONGLIFE COOLANT 5LT
6 - 9091603129 THERMOSTAT
7 - 1632562010 GASKET
8 - 1640136020 CAP SUB-ASSY
9 - 161730H030 PULLEY WATERPUMP 380
10 - 0882600100A - SEALANT 3 BOND 06404

On 9/8/2021 at 6:30 PM, PaulW said:

I decided to tally up the cost of these repairs as a guide to others who may be contemplating doing these repairs themselves.

Parts and Services: $917.09

Tools:                        $142.18

Consumables:          $68.76

Total:                       $1,128.03

Can you give a break down on the Parts, services and tools you ended up using?

This is all fixed now. It turned out to be the Alternator making those rattling noise. 

There was no noise when I started the car today around 1:30pm but it’s has been warm and sunny throughout the day. 

I was thinking it may be the water pump because it Revs a little over 2 RPM (in Park) for about 2 or so minutes when cold.

I'm use to seeing it around 1.5 RPM mark but 2 RPM may be normal because of its age.

I've ordered all 3 parts plus the belt which should arrive in a week. 

7 hours ago, campbeam said:

I would research how to loosen the tension on the serpentine belt for your vehicle.

Then check for movement on the idler pulleys, alternator and water pump etc.

In my case, it ended up being the water pump that needed to be replaced. There was noticable movement in the water pump pulley.

I am guessing from the video that it could be an idler pulley.

Please let us know what ends up being the culprit/s.

Thanks, will do. I suspected it may have been one of these.

Hi All,

There's been a rattling noise coming from the engine bay when its put into gear (Its fine in Park and Neutral)

This only happens on cold starts and the Rattling sound is there for about 2 minutes then gets normal while you're driving. 

Has anyone  had a similar experience with their Gen5 Camry (2002-2006)?

Its been happening for a few months now and the following has been replaced so far;

• Top Engine dog bone mount
• 3 other Engine Mounts
• Engine old and Coolant 
• Transmission Fluid

Everything seems fine when its at the dealer as the car would have been driven for a while.

I managed to record it today on the phone with the bonnet open and it seems its coming from where the Alternator is. 

I was thinking of getting the Alternator and Water pump replaced but thought id post the video here first. 

Your local Toyota should have these bulbs. if not, they can order them if for you.

I would recommend changing all 5 of the bulbs. That way the lighting brightness of all bulbs on the trim will be the same.  

On ‎18‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 2:10 PM, Gravehaunted said:

I created an account to thank you so dearly mate !!!! Holy shakes thank you so so much! Your a legend mate! I hope you see this 

 

I had had given up hope but this worked for me I've got the engine code 1ZZ-FE. Corrola Ascent. 2007 my06

 

Going to just just in tags so more more people find this quicker. Programming keyless remote. Single button tear shaped unlocker.

Thanks for the kind words. Happy to help :)

In some Toyota cars, I've seen the handbrake warning light come on when the brake fluid is low.

From memory, (this is for the two button Genuine remote) you need to put the key in the ignition and turn it from "OFF" to "ON" 3 times finishing it at "ON". If successful, the word "PROG" should come up on the clock and you should be able to program the remote by clicking on the buttons on the remote. Once done, you can remove the key. 

This function erases existing remote settings so before you remove the key you will need to press the buttons on the existing remote to program it.

I purchased an additional Central locking remote for a ZZE122R Corolla (Approx 2003-2007) and thought id paste the programming instructions here just in case anyone needs it.

This Instruction is for the One Button Genuine Toyota Remote.

Step 1 - Open Drivers side door (all other doors need to be closed)

Step 2- On the existing remote, press the "Lock/Unlock" button twice.

Step 3 - Insert the key in the ignition

Step 4- Turn the key from "OFF" to "ON" 20 times Finishing it at "OFF", the Hazard lights should flash 20 times if successful 
 i - The key needs to be turned 20 times really quickly (in approximately10-12 Seconds)
 ii - Do not start the engine or remove the key from the ignition when performing step 4 or else you will need to start from step 1 again.
iii - If the Hazard lights do not flash up to 20 times after you have turned the key 20 times, start again from step 1. Otherwise continue  with Step 5.

Step 5 - After the Hazard lights stop flashing (upto 20 times) press and hold the "Unlock/Lock" button on the NEW remote for two seconds then do the same on the existing remote.

Step 6 - To save the above, turn Key from "OFF" to "ON", then Back to "OFF", then remove key, close the driver door and test the buttons on the remote.

Hope this helps.

If you can drop the back seats down and get to the boot, you may be able to push the locking mechanism with a screw driver to open the boot.

The OEM Tyres Dunlop SP300E are pretty good. I got a lot of Km's out of it when I had the original wheels on..

I also had Bridgestone Turanza 592 which was just as good...

When I had these tyres they were both made in Australia. Not sure if there is much drive difference now as they are both made elsewhere

Welcome!

15,000 km/9 Months it is...

As a guideline, here are the approximate service costs (prices from Feb 2011)

Description Time Cost Range $
(Inc. GST)
1,000 km Vehicle Inspection
Approx 1 hour Service $0.00 - $0.00*

15,000km/9Mth Serv
Approx 2 hours service $191.00 - $272.00*

30,000km/18Mth Serv
Approx 2 hours Service $276.00 - $377.00*

45,000km/27Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $221.00 - $303.00*

60,000km/36Mth Serv
Approx 2 hours Service $276.00 - $377.00*

75,000km/45Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $224.00 - $314.00*

90,000km/54Mth Serv
Approx 3 hour Service $411.00 - $528.00*

105,000km/63Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $191.00 - $272.00*

120,000km/72Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $276.00 - $377.00*

135,000km/81Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $221.00 - $303.00*

150,000km/90Mth Serv
Approx 3 hour Service $486.00 - $609.00*

165,000km/99Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $191.00 - $272.00*

180,000km/108Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $400.00 - $514.00*

195,000km/117Mth Serv
Approx 2 hour Service $191.00 - $272.00*

Its looks good.... perfect fit.......

I've got Vortex 17 inch wheels on mine and they are quite good.... if you are keen on the vortex wheels, keep a lookout on e-bay as some dealers may post some up to get rid of old stock...

Has anyone tried or have feedback on the Permagard Paint protection that Car Dealers are upselling to new car owners for approx. $1500 - $1700 (Interior and exterior detailing) They were saying its the same Paint protection used on Qantas and other airlines.

Welcome :)

I have recently experienced the same problem that I cannot open the door from the drivers side on the inside. I just need a start. OP I'm wondering if you can tell me what tools I need and how to remove the door card to access the handle and the cable?

And if anyone knows whether this issue will prevent me from passing my pinkslip? Thanks guys.

You only need a screw driver to remove the door

Instructions on door removal is located on This thread which may be useful

Well my alternator just kicked the bucket. For reference, mine is an '07 Altise (bought brand new) and have had the battery replaced once. Suddenly, the other day I noticed it was struggling very slightly to start. And then it was dead when I tried to start it outside a shop. Jumpstarts were temporary fixes and RACQ have checked it, confirming the battery is fine but alternator is dying. My mechanic will be fitting a genuine Toyota alternator in the next day or two. Here's to another 7 years of Camry driving.

It is unfortunate that you're having Alternator problems. It may be worth while checking out some car wreckers as you could get an Alternator for a fraction of the price.

Welcome to the club :)

I've had the Dunlop Sports Maxx (225/45/R17) for about 3 months now and they are not all that great..

I had Bridgestone RE001's previously and these had better handling compared to the Dunlop Maxx.. (although the Dunlops were more quieter than the RE001's)