Rocketeer1

I can confirm that SOME fuel additives actually work very well, to the point that people are using one of them every tank mixed at 1:1000 ratio, and gaining between 10 and 20% better economy (my vehicles bike included somewhere bout 12-15% for each). Everything I own that burns fuel runs on the stuff now, anytime I pull off a carb, throttle body, intake manifold etc there just is no carbon or varnish- everything down to the valve is spotlessly clean. Some do work. But I cant talk for all.

All I can say is get familiar with Oil analasys. $36 per hit, for very cheap insurance against mechanical failiure. Check out Lubetech Also I know some very smart people in oil, who can give some handy advice on expected wear rates, reading analasys etc. Food for thought......

No idea on model specific, so this is general info ONLY. Look up Mobil.com.au and check out lubematch, or Penrite.com.au and look for lube recommendations. Whatever you use for the diff, ensure it is rated EP- or Extreme Pressure. This is an actual rating, first achieved by Mobil themselves in the 90's. Look out also if it is an LSD, as additive packages are altered to suit the metals found in LSD.

Never heard of it. By all means ask for MSDS and any tech data, including testing available. GENERALLY if a workshop uses an oil, its because of cost. However some actually do choose oils based on its performance characteristics, although the latter is rare. Would look through the websites for info but my internet is way slow...

hey hey & welcome I have an AE102, 1995 model. As far as the paint goes, that is easy- yeah, I believe (just based on what I have seen) the toyotas of this era (then again commodores and falcons arent immune by all means) do show their age when not very well looked after. This can be restored. Things like faded paint, and tree sap need to be agressively treated- using things like paint cutters (like cut and polish). Applying by hand has mixed results. I know myself if I hand cut a car, it not only takes a full day non stop work from dawn till dusk and then some to do it properly, even then its not as good as a machine applied job. I am aware that meguires and others do produce these palm polisher things, which people with them do recommend (I think worth around $250?). Please, dont go looking at the cheap orbital polishers available at supercheap- they really arent worth the money. I got myself a decent rotary buff and pads for around $200, but you do need to be very careful with these. You can also visit a detailer, who can cut and wax your paint work for (last time I looked) around $100. After that, its just a case of maintaining the finish, which is a lot easier than restoring. As far as the vibrations go- sorry, I really cant help you there. Exhaust issue? I really wouldnt think so. You've got me stumped on that one....

my '95 has the centre garnish panel- its white along with the tail lights- not sure if its a feature of the 'RV' variant.....

Keep in mind those who are running gas, that it has differing properties to petrol. Most importantly, its a very clean, hot burning fuel. Clean- you wont get sludges in a gas engine. Hot- cylinder temps are far hotter than petrol. Please dont stick with thin (10w30 and the like) oils. Any vehicles we see running on gas go straight to 25w60, typically with fuel economy benefits in the region of 17% (taxi's love the stuff) because 'typical' thinner oils cannot stand the increased temps.

The use of high detergent engine oils negates the need for flushing, providing they are changed at appropriate intervals. Usually oils with a Diesel rating as well as petrol is suitable I generally only flush when changing from synthetic back to mineral

i cant help but laugh whenever i read 'lifetime fluid'. the previous response is spot on. done regularly, all you need to do is drop the pan and replace the fluid that is dropped. by 100k its pretty well due for changing, as you suggested.

its not ideal, w60 is fairly heavy for a small 4 cyl (keeping in mind we do run 25w60 in 4 cyl track bikes and track cars- but they are working a hell of a lot harder). realistically w50 is ideal. w60 wont cause damage.

....and bearing plates.....

Kit arrived yesterday, decided to fit last night. After dark, in on and off rain- took around an hour to fit, with routing wiring though areas to make a clean install. Bloody hell I forgot how bright these things are- coming from a 1995 headlight- which at best was poor on badly lit roads- cant wait to see how it goes. no issues with fitting- everything went quite smoothly. Still to do- couple of cable ties on wires, and tie down the ballasts a little better, and aim headlights.

fitted HID's.....

Also going through GSL Rallysport (eventually). Always the first call for suspension or brakes...... KYB over Munroe anyday

Ah, there you go. Is it obvious I dont know the model :P Dammit i knew i should have looked it up, but just assumed based on age....sorry All as above.