Myxalplyx

Be careful about purchasing the parts from Monkey Wrench Racing. A month or two ago, I was inquiring on purchasing a 2GR-FE header from them. They said it would fit but the header was mainly for the 2GR-FE that was installed on Toyota MR2 that swapped in the 2GR-FE engine. If you are facing the header as it would attach to the engine, you'd would have to take into consideration the one pipe that would be to the far left. I know on the Camry and RAV4 (Even when you look at an 2GR-FE engine on the engine stand), that pipe on the far left curves around some other piping. It curves to the right before joining the middle and furthermost right pipe. I'm not sure what it is avoiding (Air conditioning piping?) but it clearly curves to avoid it. The MWR pipe does not have this curve but the shop feels it will still fit without issues. That was one of the things I was concerned about.

The other is what you guys mentioned about the cat converters. Moving them further up stream I could deal with but where are they going to go? They seem almost perfect being where they are, right where the exhaust piping comes out of the exhaust ports, to heat up very quickly. It would take longer for the them to heat up if they were moved upstream but it's a matter of where would you fit them so they aren't too far up. Also, the O2 sensors. There are like 4 of them right? One before and after each of the two cats. You'd have to take into consideration the new location of the O2 sensors. Two of them would have to be after the cat to measure cat efficiency. Got to be sure the stock wiring is going to reach these sensors.

Just some things to ponder if you plan to get their header. I was --><-- close to getting one (Approximate price was $650 - $700 US at the time) but after all the other exhaust piping modifications that would need to be done, it would take the price well north of this.

It would be nice if someone made a header for us that took all of those things into consideration so it would be as close to plug-n-play as possible. Good luck anyways!

BTW: Search for a gentleman's name on the net who goes by 'Gouky'. He was one of the originators of the MWR header to go into the MR2. The guy with MWR name is Matt. Gouky is 'Frankenstein Motorworks'.

Gouky sent me this picture to show how much clearance I'd have with the header from MWR (or from him at Frankenstein Motorworks). It can be purchase from either one of them. Perhaps the 'piping' I was concerned with was the oil dipstick. I have to double check again.

Well, if I can help out in any way, let me know. I've had fellows send me things from

Australia and some European countries throughout the years and me the other way around.

Even if for testing purposes, if it helps all in the name of experimentation, I'm all ears

for learning. PM me if needed.

DJKor,

Something tells me that the problem is not the maf sensor but the K&N air filter itself. The filter element I think is fine but the base of the air filter (Where it connects to the maf sensor piping) I think is causing turbulent flow. If I were closer to you, I'd send you a 3" S&B air filter for testing, that has a different base that prevented a CEL for someone else that had a similar issue (N/A though..not supercharged). I'm thinking if the air filter was changed for one with a different base, and removing the 2.7" internal piece to get back to 3", you might be ok. I think I said this earlier in this thread but it may have gotten lost.

Also, do you have any intention on changing that 'accordion' looking piece between the maf sensor and throttle body? Not that it's a restriction or anything but it doesn't serve any flexing purpose now that the air filter end isn't tied down to the frame. Airflow may not be as smooth as it could be there. Then again, it's a moot point probably because you have a supercharger. <_<

There may be a couple of things you guys can do to your ECUs.

If you are interested in adding or taking away fuel a specific RPMs, you can purchase an Apexi SAFC NEO. Not sure why you would want to do this unless you are getting significantly more air into your engine than stock.

I have been inquiring about the stock Lotus Evora ECUs from various sources. The reason why I have is that Lotus was able to get out slightly more hp/torque in the Evora than the 'normal' (Camry, Aurion, etc) ecus. What I have been told the reasoning behind this is that Lotus tweaked two things with the Toyota ECU: Raised the Rev limiter slightly to about 7000rpm and advanced the ignition timing slightly. Those of use that use regular gasoline (or petrol) can emulate the raised ignition timing by simply switching to a higher octane fuel so I have been told. I tested the switching from regular petrol to higher octane to see if any hp/torque could be gained but it did not show on a dyno. So, I'm thinking the ECU map was tweaked or made more aggressive. As for the raised rev limiter, it appears the car is still making power before it shifts around 6400rpm or so. So utilizing a Lotus tuned ECU map may able to get some additional power out of your engine (N/A that is) by bumping up rpm band by 500rpm. The Lotus Evora has a button to put it in 'Sport Mode' which allows the car rev a little higher. Trying to see how this works and if it is something we could use.

Problem is, I was told that the Lotus mapped ECU's have a different pinout than the Camrys (Assuming the Aurion is similar to the Camry) have so it is not a simple bolt-on deal. Also, the ECU change is made by Lotus themselves. You can purchase the ECU but it comes 'uncalibrated'. This would have to be done overseas.

So for now, have been waiting to see if one of the Lotus aftermarket tuners that will be tweaking the Evora ECU can possibly tweak our (Other 2GR-FE engine users with like ECUs) ECUs. Will see!

When I accelerate from red lights or speed up I usually try my best to keep no higher then 2500rpm. Though I noticed the Aurion doesn't like to go fast on low rev's and you get the decent power out of it from anything above 3000rpm. (Not much low end torque)

I've been reading that an ECU can get lazy (this is unconfirmed from other forums like Honda etc). I think it could be me from trying to take it easy on car that my transmission changes become lazy. I know for a fact that if I accelerate hard, that my transmission changes are blisteringly fast, its just bam bam bam, you cannot even tell the car is changing gear.

If I were to up it to about 3000rpm to 3500rpm is that okay?

Hello Unique,

Have you considered driving with the car in '3' and not in 'D' or Drive? Not sure how the Aurion drivetrain is setup inside but leaving the car in '3' around town can help pep up the low end torque a bit. In some cars, people shift from 2-3 (back and forth) depending on how fast they go. Not sure if some of the Aurion crowd does this.

Outside of this, a little on the extreme side here but you could purchase a wheel/tire combo that is significantly lighter than the stock setup. When I say 'significant', I mean a wheel/tire combo that is at least 5lbs lighter.

Just a couple of things I could think of.

DJKor,

Nice intake btw! Just wanted to relay a little on the air filter itself. While a couple of us at the RAV4 site was testing out various air filters, a couple of the members noticed a strange phenomenom about one of the K&N air filters. All of them did not experience this but at least one person did. The gentleman that I quoted above (TRDV6), he previously used a K&N air filter on his short ram intake (Just like you have). What he found out is that it caused the check engine light to come on. As he researched further, the check engine light was caused by how the air transitioned into the maf sensor piping housing at the base of the intake. It was not a 'smooth' transition and it threw a code. Wish I had the link to the quote but it escapes me at the moment. He simply switched to another model of air filter that had a smoother transitioning base (Where it connects to the maf sensor piping) and the CEL went away.

Another problem some of the guys had is the intake diameter of the maf sensor housing itself but it doesn't appear you have this problem and if you did, you'd probably nip that issue in the bud.

Good luck with the modification! If you want to keep the air filter on, consider extending the piping to push the air filter away from the maf sensor. With that powerful supercharger you have, it may reduce some of the racket of the air coming in by the maf sensor and the sound vibrations escaping from the intake manifold through the maf sensor. I'm sure it sounds lovely though.

BTW: If you are interested in widening the throttle body slightly, I just updated a thread I posted at the Toyonation site. Maxbore Throttle Body

You can get any exhaust system you want... it just depends on how much money you have. As it stands, there is no exhaust system currently in production that bolts up from the headers back. You can buy headers separately for around US$699, and then you can get a TRD exhaust setup which bolts from the third cat backwards for around the same price as well, but you will still need to get an exhaust shop to work on the pipes in-between.

Wasn't sure if these headers would fit the Camry/Aurion. Was going to purchase these myself from Monkeywrench racing but the way the one header would sit in between the radiator and engine would interfere with what looks like the air conditioning system. Would have to tap it with an O2 sensor and put the cat converters a little further downstream as well, which would slow them from heating up a bit but that's not such a big deal.

Blackmagic,

You should check out DJKor's TOCAU Aurion FAQ --> FAQ. He has a lot of good information and links in that FAQ. One link I found particularly interesting is how another person who removed the resonators found that is sounded 'raspy', especially going up hills and the drone was bad. Look under the question, " I want to change my exhaust setup. Are there any performance exhausts for the Aurion out there" in the link to the FAQ.

57 F is 13 C which is not hot outside air temp and only for 15 minutes.

I am not saying the test is inconclusive but do it on a hot day 40 C in a built up environment, again with stop start driving in congested city driving and then again even with some restriction of the inlet air from cars/trucks in front and for do them all for longer.

Also the results will vary if you do this on-road or off-road.

Has anyone done the test on the factory setup?

What is the air temp on the engine side of the air filter? Stock, block bypassed and modified CAI. Do this for the above scenarios and you might have some very useful data to present.

Maybe I should be careful asking for this to be done as I regularly get attacked for my comments.

And I am not having a go at anyone or their comments.

Well, here's another quote from the same forum member on other tests he did prior to doing the setup I have. -->

Latest modification/adjustment: Custom Heat Shield (also recall that the S&B filtter has an inverted cone filter element on its end' date=' so this mod will help draw cooler air as well as isolate (somewhat) the hotter engine-side air from the intake.

The scanguage is measuring only 1-2 degree warmer air @ the MAF sensor than ambient air temperature (at almost all times, except idle/slow traffic). Even at idle the the incoming air temperature is measurably cooler than my last set up (just the short ram with the S&B filter). This setup will not duplicate the cooler air achieved in a CAI (like Myxaplyx's), but is achieving MEASURABLY cooler incoming air as compared to without a heat shield. In the old setup, the scanguage was showing 4-10 degree warmer air (MAF compared to ambient). As I'm now at a range of 1-2 degrees, this is certainly great news as cooler, denser air means more horsepower! [/quote']

The S&B air filter is what he switched to after getting rid of the Weapon R dragon air filter (which I found to be very restrictive). Even still, I'd encourage folks to be doubtful and test these things at their own leisure. It's fun stuff! TRDV6RAV4 and I are convinced already but others should try this as well if they are really interested. I have a scan gauge as well but have not got it to work on my vehicle. If one is available and you have the means to use it, test it out and let people know your results. I love to compare notes and learn from what others experience as well.

Edit: I searched a little more to see if I could find more info from the poster. Here's one for the road-->

http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=23307&start=0

Further' date=' I tracked the heat picked up by the temp. sensor at the MAF (in the intake) from the original OEM airbox configuration, to the one I mentioned above, and then with my Dragon Ram. I found what I mentioned above (very hot air) with the half-A$$ mod. Stock and the Dragon Ram are comparable - which was wonderful news to me!!!! (the sensor shows that it's about 4 degrees above outside (of the engine bay) ambient temperature in both configurations once you start moving. Both configurations (stock and WR) showed hotter air coming in when the vehicle is not moving (with the engine on). The difference is that stock has slightly cooler air when compared here (due to that roundabout cool air tube that is ultimately choking the engine - it's like breathing through a straw!!). So, long story short, you are still getting quite cool air into the engine with a short ram intake (although the further away from the heat source you can get the inlet of your intake, obviously the greater the hp, given the same CFM are getting to the engine).[/quote']

It is still not conclusive but better than nothing. Conclusive enough for me though. :)

Lots of nice and shinny pipe there, I just have one question.

Is the pipe insulated? If not the heat in the engine bay will be absorbed into the pipe and heat the air.Anyone feel challenged?

Hello fuel miser,

With the cold-air setup, insulating the piping will not be necessary as the heat will not heat up the piping enough to affect the air temperature going through it. Here is a picture of a cold-air setup I did with my WeaponR Dragon intake on a 2GR-FE-->

Notice that the piping is not insulated. The piping never gets cold or warmed up, even after extended city and/or highway driving. I did a coolant throttle body bypass mod as well so the throttle body does not get heated up anymore. So the whole thing stays cool. There was another member at a RAV4 site that used the exact same piping I used, from the exact same source (Verocious Motorsports), using the part number I provided. They tested the outside temperature vs the temperature at the Maf sensor. This is what they saw -->

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_Ni-954Aovh4/S_U02J3kjyI/AAAAAAAABEI/6dggMuOl27k

Well' date=' at any rate, I wanted to give you a "proof in the pudding" picture from my drive in to work this morning (btw, I always take numbers while on cruise control @ about 70 mph after the engine has warmed up to make sure it's a scientific, apples-to apples comparison):

As you can see, "Outside" and IA (Incoming Air) are both 57 degrees (F)! It was like this for the entire time I was on the Thruway. I've never seen that before this intake setup 8) .[/quote']

From here --> http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20128&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=330

This is not to say that your results will not be different but there is a chance that you will have similar results since it is the same engine. Good luck either way! I hope to see data that supports that you get ambient temps as well.

hey every1

just to confirm, after i have installed my k&n cai i've noticed serious drop in hp in the low rpm range and also when i reach around 4000rpm it sounds like air is escaping for like a fraction of a second... i've checked all my clamps, even tightened them so much i broke one :S i'm quite concerned bout this so would be nice if some1 could give me some pointers/help, etc.

ie. This is the first time i've mechanically done something to my car and it seems my pre thoughts of $#@!ing it up is indeed becoming reality. :(

thanks in advance

I noticed this same thing when my car had the short ram setup. ECU learning or not, it felt like it lose some low end torque. You can regain this lowend torque and response by attaching piping to the short ram, converting it to a cold-air setup like the previous poster did. When I did this, I noticed my low end torque came back and throttle response was much better. Seemed like there was more of a delay with power when flooring it, with the short ram.

**Deleted**

I made a 'terrible' mistake in my title of the thread. It was supposed to read 'Supercharging' NOT turbocharging. I think I had too many windows open when I did this thread originally as I was researching both. In a nutshell, I am just interested in applying the Aurion (Or TRD) supercharger to a 2GR-FE engine. Disregard the 'Turbocharging'. Actually, if I can get the thread title changed, that'll help not confused folks. I apologize.

Also, thanks for the replies and comments. I am currently having a tranny cooler installed at a shop and should be picking the car up tomorrow. As for the other stuff, that's what I'm interested in knowing what's needed. They do not seem too hard to obtain from what DKOR/Nasser is stating.

Unique, I have always enjoyed modifying cars that are said to be 'slow' or 'not able to perform'. My boring car keeps a very low profile but at the same time, I'd love to blow the doors off another vehicle performance wise. This thread is focused on the straight-line performance (0-60, 1/4 mile). Braking and suspension is for another post somewhere else. So, that's why I am asking. Some people understand this while others don't. It's all in good fun.

I live in the U.S. and own a 2010 Toyota RAV4. You guys have the option of getting a supercharged Aurion. Since my RAV4 has the 3.5ltr V6 2GR-FE, what must I do to it to be able to install the supercharger on it that you guys have? My car has 10.8:1 compression ratio btw. Thanks for any advice!