Woodduck5

ask them to bring their magic black box (Toyota laptop), as they'll need that to interrogate the ECU Good luck

Hi Mark I assume you have a diesel. I am sorry to suggest, you should be getting the injectors checked - or at least ask toyota to do the testing and see what the tolerances come back with...., Regards Woodduck

Totally agree Tony P. I feel for Tony L's situation. It sounds like the mechanic is out of his depth

Get on to the manufacturer of the lockup kit, immediately. Get them to commit to a plan to fix it. Don't waste your time asking on forums - you will get a stack of uninformed (and some informed) responses. There are too many variables, options and configurations, to be able to provide you with a considered response. Get on the mechanics back and make him fix it. Both the main stream lockup kit providers have good reputations and while there were some concerns (codes) initially, these have all been ironed out. There is a significant difference between a lockup kit and a remap - but they do go hand-in-hand (and required to be matched). Meanwhile - get a copy of your original ECU map back. The mechanic is required to upload and save it, before he starts work (every series of car is different). Get it now - today (just in case). If he doesn't have it - force the issue. Good luck

Hi, You'll find detailed instructions, the equipment you will need including part numbers and photo instructions in LCool. Here is an abbreviated version (I don't know if the pics are going to work. If not, you'll need to go to LCool for them) Here is what you need to turn it off again. Essentially you must trick the SRS ECU into thinking the side impact airbag in the seat is still present. To do so you must put a 2.2ohnm 2watt flame proof resistor in line where the squib once was. Parts list 2) Toyota housing connectors 90980-12697 (2) 2.2ohnm 2watt flameproof resistors NTE2W2D2 (2) Volkswagen wires 000-979-017-E Step one. Cut the VW wire so that you have one short length and and sauder the resistor in line. Step two Shrink wrap the resistor and exposed metal with a couple of layers. This resistor is going to get a little warm so insulated it well. Fold the wire in half so that the pins are at the same length and shrink wrap the whole piece. Step three Seat the pins in the hosing connector. If aligned properly, they will snap right in and the retention clip will hold them in place. Step four Disconnect the battery. Plug your new SRS squib simulator into the harness connectors in the 2nd row. I slid mine along the wiring loom under the carpet pointing toward the front of the vehicle. Reconnect your battery and your done

Good luck

Hi Lincoln. It depends. KDSS will not compensate for the bullbar. It is not designed to anything like that. The existing OEM suspension will cope with an ARB/TJM steel bar. The car will sag a bit on the front, but apart from that, you shouldn't notice any performance difference. However, if you are considering later to add a winch, roof rack or other accessories that affect the front aspect, you will need to seriously consider a suspension/shocks upgrade. You may want to consider a lighter alternative - for instance, the SmartBar (another ARB product) or a alloy bar. When I said it depends - it depends on what you are going to use the car for. If you are planning a lot of off road work, that will require 'ups and downs' (as opposed to just standard dirt roads), you would probably want to consider a suspension upgrade anyway. If you aren't going to put the car under much stress, the existing suspension will provide good service for many years. (now 2017 GXL)

Sorry to ask the obvious - you are stationary and in neutral. Then turn the switch and wait at least 10-15 seconds. The light should come on (4LO), you will feel the clunk and it will have engaged. When you put it gear (D or S), you'll know the difference immediately. If the 4LO light is flashing - engage gear and then back to neutral and it might engage - bout you'll probably have to start the process again. If that is what you are doing (and it isn't engaging) - yep, you have a problem. If can access a Scan gauge or Ultra gauge, they might be able to show a trouble code and that will assist to diagnose the problem.

Hi John, Do yourself a favour - go and buy a Scangauge - http://scangauge.com.au/ It is easy to install (literally plug it in, under the dash) - It will give you the codes - it gives you the capability to reset the codes (without disconnecting the battery) and gives you a stack of other useful info. With that said - the type of fault you are talking about, could be as simple as a loose or worn wire, shorting somewhere. Incredibly difficult to find. (I know - that isn't very helpful - sorry..) I looked up the codes - and P0046 doesn't appear in (my version of) the LC200 Diagnostic Trouble Codes that I have (mine was produced for the 2008 model, so should be the same as yours). The codes on either side talk about "Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit High" and "Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low". They appear to relate to the air/fuel, mixtures relating to EFI and ECM modules. I am sorry I don't have the details of the exact code you are experiencing. I can only good luck in your search.... Regards

Hi Warren, I put mine in a new overhead console. Looks (I think) neat and tidy, out of way and the speaker is right next to my ear (a good thing, for aging blokes like me). However, the newer units these days are much smaller and can probably be hidden out of the way. Still leaves the question of where to put the speaker. Regards

Warren Yes - S5 in a Diesel LC200. Both the car and the fuel economy will like you for it. Regards

I stuck with all ARB product - so Old Man Emu shocks with medium springs. So, if you talk to ARB the springs were the middle range - gave me (about) 2.3in lift on the rear. On the front was about the same, until I put on the winch, then came back to 2in. Anyway, the point is that the rear is expecting some weight, to make it work properly. So, if you are driving around town, with nothing in the back, it may appear to be bouncing a bit in the rear. When you have stuff in the back - drawers full, fridge etc. I also tow, so its all good and a perfect ride (for me). Regards

Hi John, I have a 2008 TTD GXL, with KDSS. I have a 2in lift, all around (slightly more on the rear) and both diff locks. (So, I am not sure who told you can't have KDSS and a lift, clearly that is wrong.) It is awesome off road - and as long as you can live with the different ride, when there is no weight on/in the back, it is all good.

Hi Dunnit, Most of the Cvan World article is pretty close to the mark. Firstly, it is talking about a Petrol LC which has a 5 speed box. The diesel has 6 and which (inho) should be towing in 5th. But essentially the argument is right - the transmission slips (guarantee it will happen in top gear, when towing). There was (is) a software update (certainly for the 6 speed box - not sure about the 5 speed) which changed the gear ratios slightly (only when used in S mode). This allows the torque converter to lock up much earlier, primarily in 6th gear, but it effected all gears. This means the stated 120Km/Hr is (maybe) a bit out of date. I've tried exactly as outlined in the article, with a heavier van (22' 6" - 3 Ton) and I have a scan gauge. I didn't get anywhere near 120degrees - and would have been quite concerned if it did. It certainly did get much warmer than the normal 85 degree normal op temp, but not 120. Lastly - the statement about the torque converter locking up at a certain speed is technically incorrect. It is more about the load on the gear box and the amount of torque that is being asked of it, to transfer from front (motor) to diff (wheels). If you put your foot down to go up a hill and you are already doing 80Km/Hr in 4th - the Torque converter has two options (depending upon a whole stack of factors - but again, mainly on what torque is being asked to transfer) - shift down a gear - or slip. It will (nearly always) slip first. The revs will go up by around 400-500. If the torque transfer wasn't enough to meet your foot pressure, it will drop back a gear. This is exactly what is supposed to happen - it is designed that way. So, the auto box is designed to compensate for this increased activity and therefore compensate for the temperature increase. For those that may be fanatical - there is a mod that (arguably) makes the auto box work much more efficiently. Reduces dramatically the torque slippage (like 90% reduction). But it is not toyota approved, is guaranteed to void warranty and about $3K. But it does (reportedly) improve fuel consumption (when towing) but 30%. It is used by (the likes of) Dakar racers and the like. I have only seen it used/advertised overseas. I doubt if it is for anyone on this forum. Bottom line - yes, tow in (one down) from D in the LC200. You will get better response, the car will like you more (less stress on just about everything), and better fuel economy. Regards

Hi Geoffrey, Yes, this is normal - this is exactly what it is designed to do. As you found on bitumen when wet/greasy, the traction control kicks in to ensure the vehicles stability and all 4 (2 actually, but that is another story) wheels are driving. The noise you are hearing mostly, is the brakes coming on and off - very much like ABS breaking. It forces the power to the other wheel, which (in theory) has traction. All this should be in the manual somewhere Regards Geoff