Nunga_08

$10 to enter in an Autobarn Sound Off; there should be locations on the website. I can't imagine yours getting over 135dB anyway; you've just got the one 10" sub with 500RMS haven't you?

You need an SPL testing meter if you want to see how loud your stereo is; there's a cheap one selling for $270 on MEA, but it only measures up to 150dB. 151dB is huge; my stereo was silly loud and it only peaked just over 140; a whole league behind.

Wow, 5000km on a three year old car! I do that distance in about 7 weeks. Off topic I know but you've already been answered to :)

Well, my Gen4 had front discs replaced around 150,000km, and now at 210,000 needs a front wheel bearing replaced, though that can just be attributed to general wear and tear. The front discs warped a bit and had been machined smooth once or twice, but I'm not sure if that's a recurring problem in all Camrys. Most six cylinder Camrys are prone to pinging as well (told by a mate's father who I think heads the servicing of Toyota Vic). But I mean at 210,000km the car's still running well and still gets economy close to 10L/100km (V6).

Check signature. A considerable amount of money went into the splits, the source and the installation. And that's just the way it should be. CAA (or Mobile Electronics now) were selling Optima batteries as well, the Yellow Tops I believe. I have a Blue Top and it's great (apart from having to get a custom clamp made up to fit it).

Four or six cylinder?

Yeah I'm a Queenslander... Gen3 V6 Wagon with stereo, but it's hardly a cruise-worthy car. GCCL yours is tough as! If I was interested in doing mine up I'd get a similar rear bar to yours.

www.caraudioaustralia.com It's probably one of the best car audio forums on the net.

Adjust the gains as necessary to get optimal sound quality, but also not to risk blowing your speakers. It all depends on the amps and the speakers. Capacitors are a waste of money for basic systems. First thing I'd do is upgrade your battery. You shouldn't have any problems with your stock battery because your system probably isn't that powerful (I'd say you'd have 1000W absolute max?) but a better battery (say something from Optima) wouldn't go astray. For $150, go to Jaycar. You will not be disappointed.

Alpine Type-S speakers are sh*t. Fusion speakers are sh*t. A lot of Focal's gear is brilliant (upwards of $500 at least), and the same goes for Eclipse. Brands like Rainbow, Morel, Dynaudio, Alpine's Type-X, Diamond, Boston- these are the ones you want to look at. They cost more, but you pay for quality. And someone please tell me how the hell is it more economical to buy a 2ch amp when the guy already owns a 4ch amp? If anything, he can still amplify the rear speakers with it. Before I upgraded to my Rainbow Profis I had a set of Response splits, and for the money they are brilliant. To be honest I had to go up to the $900 Rainbows to find a speaker that, in my mind, sounded better. But you notice the difference when you're cranking the volume. Noice is one thing, but clarity at high volumes is a totally different kettle.

0 power loss? That's a big claim and a worthwhile one to make. Ford's LPG-only Falcon loses a good 20kw or so. Not sure about the dual-fuel 380s or Commodores, though. I read about one mob doing conversions for the Aurion using a 54L tank in the boot. I'd be interested in knowing how much space this took up.

If you want a seriously good sounding system, why not run your front stage actively? D'ice says you have two channels wasted on a four channel amp, but I disagree. Unless your deck has active crossovers, running an active front stage makes a lot of sense (just means your splits crossover is now useless). But like has been said above, the stock speakers off the deck will keep back-seat drivers happy. If you have the 6x9s you might as well use them, but honestly when you have a subwoofer they're just a waste of space. Rear speakers are there just for fill more than anything else. What is your budget for splits? If you have under $500 to spend, the only things worth recommending are the Response Precision Kevlar splits @ $150. If you have $600ish to spend on 2-way splits, I suggest Morel's Elate splits. They are very good. Upwards of that can get you some brilliant equipment.

Those rims are terrific. I've seen them before but the name escapes me. Does anyone know what they're called? Or who manufactures them?

Lol, egay, says he who wants a blow-off valve for his N/A Camry.

+1 But, it should succeed in taking some sales away from the performance Falcons and Commodores. That comment has got to have come from someone who has never driven a HSV or an FPV. No offence intended. Seriously guys and girls, a front driver will NEVER EVER compete with large engined, rear drive cars in this country, they have a completely different target audience. AWD has proven itself a contender, FWD never will. I honestly thought Toyota would remove the cardigan this time, obviously I was mistaken. Sorry mate, but I've driven performance Holdens and Fords before, so I'll take a little offence to that. If you took the time to read other threads about the Aurion, you'll see I've mentioned almost word for word what you said and thus agree with you, regarding "a front driver will NEVER EVER compete with large engined, rear drive cars in this country". And I only said some sales, not a big percentage. Many people buy HSVs and FPVs just for the badge, not the driving experience. It's these people that may be inclined to go to the performance Aurion. I struggle to see how this will compete with the HSV GTS and Force6/Force8 twins, which is obviously Toyota's aim if they plan on pricing the Aurion at that low-70s mark. I was under the impression it'd come out for maybe high-50s originally.