RollaRollin

Your best approach is with both a radar detector and jammer so that when your detector picks up a radar/lidar, you can then turn the jammer off. In either case, if you are taking the risk to have one, you may as well have the other.

But each to their own. If you don't agree with the road rules, get rid of your car and start walking.

I was under the impression that, the radar puts out a signal (frequency?) as the highway patrol car/mobile roadside is recording speeds of cars.

This signal than can be picked up in the air(?) from a Radar Detector even though its not being directly pointed at you, the radar signal is still able to be 'found' by the radar detector as all electronic devices output a signal. VIdeo below is my reasoning after watching it, correct me if I'm wrong though

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/gZiD77qGxZI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm more talking about Highway Patrol Cars & Mobile Roadside Cameras that are constantly scanning passing vehicles, I would think with Radar?

Fixed Speeds Cameras do not output radar or laser, they have 'things' embedded in the road that quickly calculate how fast your going via a tiny distance to distance algorithm and then if its too quick, they snap a photo.

If a cop is sitting in his car pointing his laser gun at you, then a jammer (that shuts down) and a detector would be your best bet.

If your really that desperate to not be caught :)

Unmarked Ford Territory RTA Revenue Raisers...

I laugh every time I hear someone call a speed camera a revenue raiser. They only raise revenue because idiots give them reason to.

Don't see how they reduce the road toll when 9/10 you don't even see them

So yes, I consider them a pointless money making scheme

Surely there are better methods than unmarked cars on the side of the road to slow people down

From my experience you kinda get what you pay for - have to find the balance between price and quality/features. I run a cheap one - one of the low end Beltronics, but they're next to useless against the new LIDAR guns that cops are using right now - you just don't get enough of an opportunity. Because lasers aren't constant 'on', by the time your detector has sensed the beam, you've already been acquired.

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on some of the higher end models, what you're effectively paying a premium for. Possibly less false alerts - my detector these days seems to be more of a 'petrol station detector' than a radar detector :P

Anyone run jammers? Apparently theres some legal loophole in WA that lets them be marketed as 'parking sensors' - which legally allows you to have them installed. These need to be actually built into your bumper/front grille though, and at roughly $2000 you might just consider paying the once off fine? :S

Alf

Only thing with Jammers is, while they are effective at deflecting/bouncing/scrambling the laser signal.

The cop will be surprised, reload and press the trigger again, thinking its just an error with the gun

If the second time he still cannot get a reading on your speed because its being deflected/bounced/scrambled by the system

I'm sure the alarm bells will be going off to him/her that the 50 cars hes read speeds before worked perfectly and yours hasn't and I'm sure he/she will be on your tail in no time and have you on the side of the road going over your car to find them.

Police can check the glove box, engine bay etc and inspect the car.

They cannot use say tools to pry something open, without having reasonable grounds to so.

They can get your vehicle sent to an inspection station if they are really p!ssed or are certain you have something hiding

If its well hidden and disguised, they don't stand a chance and will let you drive off 9/10

But if the do find it... In NSW, ouch.

I have been told by 2 guys (One owns a GT3 he other an Aston DB9) that the Whistler Pro 78se has saved them multiple times from fixed speed cameras but you need to make sure you have the latest revision software.

STYLSH tells me however, the handheld radar detector is useless as by the time it registers it's presence; it's too late and it will have your speed.

Given the legal status on these in QLD however, I wouldn't be putting one in.

Did any of the owners quote on roving patrols, such as Highway Patrol Cars and the radar they put out?

I drive the same route every day and pass only one fixed camera, so really its only Highway Patrol that would be able to catch me speeding

Oh and those damn Mobile Roadside Cameras (Unmarked Ford Territory RTA Revenue Raisers)

Honestly though not that I speed consistently, just looking for info on them, really interested as its the first Ive seen them

http://www.smh.com.au/news/technology/police-grapple-with-defective-detectors/2008/07/22/1216492432489.html

Hmm makes for an interesting read.

The name the Beltronics STI Driver and the newer Escort Passport 9500ci as undetectable to RDD's

NSW Police use Radar Detector Detectors such as the Spectre System

http://www.spectre-rdd.com/spectre.asp

But there are various models of the Spectre RDD's from V1 to V4 and I'm not sure what the NSW Police use now?

Because the $100 US Detector will pick up Spectre 1 & 2

Information overload

Reason I'm trying to get as much info as possible:

$1900 fine

9 Demerit Points off your license

Detector Taken

Lots of ouch if caught

Stumbled upon a police radar detector site last night (radars.com.au)

They're stuff looks pretty expensive, nothing really under the $400 mark.

Having a look online and can get detectors from the US for the $100 mark delivered.

Theres so many different radar frequencies but the one above covers the NSW Police radars that are in HWY Patrol Cars (Ka Band)

And also the handheld lasers that they point and shoot (Prolaser 2 & 3)

Now I know they are illegal in NSW and carry huge fines, with police having RDD (Radar Detector Detectors)

And that speeding is stupid and of course dangerous

But I'm interested in them and if anyone uses them in their car? DO they even work etc?

Appreciate anyone with an opinion shedding some light

To all of the above, thank you

I'm going to keep the Corolla

Heck it was only just a thought that I could buy the Audi, it looks great from the outside but of course its a euro so $$$ if something does go wrong ($$$ I don't have)

There are a few like it on car sales but are a bit more expensive (+1k)

Gee come to think of it why did I even think about selling it haha

On with the Sportivo exhaust system :P

Was driving home and on the side of the road I saw...

2001 Audi A4 B6

1.8L Turbocharged Engine

All Wheel Drive (Quattro)

Metallic Black

Factory 17's

5 Speed Manual

200,000k on the clock (bit high?)

For only $10,000!!

Someone talk me out of selling my Corolla to buy it?!!

Its so tempting, it is such a nice car.

Anyone have experience with an A4 B6?

he will also be making me accountable for all his legal expenses that he racks up??? What the heck is with this guy? Does he really think he can do that??

Haha this guy obviously knows nothing with what he is demanding and is using his lack of knowledge to I guess scare you into paying up

6. Your Liability

(a) Subject to this clause 6, You are responsible, to the fullest extent permitted by applicable law, for all Damages regardless of fault which occur during the Rental Period or which result from Your rental or use of the Vehicle or Accessories. Notwithstanding anything in this clause 6 or any other clause, there is no cap or limit on Your liability to Hertz resulting from any use of the Vehicle for, or incurred whilst the Vehicle is being used for, any Prohibited Use or by any Prohibited Person or for any Full Responsibility Use referred to in clause 5 (Full Responsibility).

Pretty much sums it all up there mate, he cannot hold you liable for the costs he incurs for his contract with Hertz.

your best bet is to give any and all information you receive to AAMI, and let them take care of it. AAMI have a pretty aggressive reputation in litigation within the insurance industry, and have the resources to properly defend your position.

100% agree with what all lateralus has said, especially being a legal professional.

If he takes further action, let AAMI handle it.

They spend $$$ for the best lawyers so they dont have to pay and can avoid $$$ in legal claims

Hope hes not another member and is reading all this

Although on the other hand he might realize to back down

Exactly what the converter said mate.

With the eonon they already have a cable labelled ground with a plug, simply plug your handbrake wire into it and you can watch whenever you want

But of course, keep your eyes on the road!

I got a genuine one delivered from HK for $11

Just have a look on eBay, so much cheaper than buying retail

I have no legal experience, but I am doing legal studies at school and this is just my thoughts on it.

The key to what you and your insurance company is saying is that

'additional costs (excess) that he incurred because this was a contract between him and Hertz'

I'd say your insurance company is 100% on the money with that. Car B did not take out insurance or whatever they call it on the hire of the car, which leaves him to deal with the excess that Hertz implies because he was involved in this accident.

If he had of taken out the extra cover, no problems.

He has no grounds to make you pay the money, I would think, his problem is with Hertz.

On your second thought of him taking civil action on YOU personally,

I think he's having it on and trying to put the wind up you to pay up.

Your insurance company is representing you in the first instance, which will have the very best lawyers that money can buy. If he wins, he wins, your insurance company pays out the 2k. No loss to you I'm assuming?

But if he looses I doubt he would continue to pursue it as a civil matter against you personally, especially after having to pay court costs for losing

He'll be flat out broke from pursuing you if he loses the first instance and I can't see him continuing the fight against you, unless he has deep pockets, in which he would pay the 2k anyway.

He has no 'friends' in this, if he takes the matter further, it will be out of his own pocket and probably a lot of his time

And after just paying 2k in excess, its probably a pretty light pocket.

Just my .02

Goodluck and keep us posted

I think its just easier if you rock up in your car with the exhaust in the back and just say can you install this. Does the sportivo exhaust have a flange already on it? If it does just get them to chop your 1zz exhaust, put a flange on it and boltup the sportivo exhaust.

Yeah I think thats the route I'm going to go.

The sportivo midpipe already has a flange so I'm going to take both to a muffler shop, heck even a fabrication joint and get the flange from the stock piping put on the stivo exhaust.

Will the stock flange fit around the sportivo piping though, piping looks a lot thicker/wider?

Welcome to the forums mate & nice car!

I have an 02 Ascent Hatch and am 17 myself.

Here's a lot of info on stuff you'll find interesting

and

and

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/forum/15-workshop-submissions/

Parts are a bit hard to come by, but check the sale section in the forums and you will find heaps of gear!

For example I just picked up a 2.25 inch exhaust system to the headers for $250 from another member.

There's so much stuff on there

Have a look around the forums and start posting up :)

Cheers

Callum

Yes I understand that the Sportivo headers will not bolt on.

Was just asking if it would be best to get the original headers flanged to suit the sportivo midpipe and if so would it be easier for the exhaust guys if I just took my stock headers too them and the new sportivo mid pipe.

Other alternative I guess is to cut it off and weld it on?

@SuperDave

Do you think the mid pipe will bolt on to my stock headers?

I mean I haven't tried but I did a bit of measuring and I didn't think it wold

How much you think i'll be looking at for that mate?

Cheaper if I remove the headers myself from the car and take it + piping to them?

Hey Corolla man

Nah I didn't get a reversing camera with mine.

Will probably grab one at some point, I really don't need one.

Eonon have the best rep out of any chinese manufacturer I think, simply because they sell so much

The speak full english, great prices and are really helpful.

For example when I got mine the unit wouldn't turn on, (yes I was fuming)

Emailed them and none of their steps were working to fix the problem

They said to return it to the base at China, I was just like ah ***** here goes $100 just getting it back.

But at the bottom of the email they said a courier will pick it up from my door for 10USD.

I was so stoked at that and how sorry they were (by this point i worked out what was wrong)

But I think Eonon are tops and I will be dealing with them again.

Oh and the problem with the unit was you have to double tap the power button when you undo your battery to turn it on, which the manual dosent say to do.

But I now love my Eonon and can't imagine my car without it

Picked up a full Sportivo exhaust this weekend, thanks to 'redsportivo' and 'juvenile'

Very, very happy with it.

About to put it on my ZZE Ascent,

The stock piping on the car is 1.75'

But the Sportivo exhaust has piping of 2.25'

Because of this difference in size, the exhaust system will not bolt on directly as the bolts will not line up, differences in flange etc

So, my question

Will the stock sportivo headers install into my ascent without too much drama?

Or are they not compatible

Thanks in advance

Looks great mate!

What happens as your driving say around town on down the freeway, do you lose picture?

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=450792

There you go mate.

Should cover the basics of the install.

Honestly if you can spare the cash pick on of the units i got up.

They are well worth the $175 for Bluetooth, DVD, USB etc

Double Din HU's look so good in the Ascents because of the location, but ANY headunit wil fit in your car.

Double or Single Din, they are universal, you will probably just have to grab a mounting kit or a fascia or something (google or search)

After I saw your HU, I am regretted now that I bought my single din DVD player.

Good on you mate! Can you provide me the link where you bought this HU?

Its pretty ordinary at day due to the screen not handling glare too well

But at night

It is seriously wicked, words cannot describe how nice it is at night

And for a generic chinese unit the screen is crystal clear

Ultimately a good solid unit and recommend it to everyone

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/D2102-Eonon-6-2-HD-LCD-2Din-Dash-Car-TV-DVD-Player-/360372478616?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e7dfa298#ht_11702wt_1136

Theres a good one mate ^^^^

They seemed to of upped their prices a bit, around $200 delivered

But that one has 5 hours to go and is $175 delivered

For the price, its amazing

For under $200 you'd be lucky if you walked out of SCA or Autobarn with a Single Din HU that had a USB :D

After getting and installing my new DVD HU

I decided I wanted to play games!

Did a bit of research and decided a PS2 would be the best bet.

Now there isn't much info online so I was kinda tossing up on what to do.

I hit up a friend for a Slim PS2 ($20 yeww) and saw that eBay had those car adapters for PS2's

Perfect I thought, I was trying to avoid installing an inverter initially

Got it all ready to install and then realised the PS2 Slim I had was an early model and required 230V AC!!!

Your kidding me, so that idea was scrapped.

I then came across one of these and decided to give it a go.

Plugged it in and the PS2 lit up, woo hoo!

Pressed the button to turn it on and nothing,

Assume there wasn't enough juice.

THEN

I decided enough was enough. Hit up google and found a few pages

PS2's run from AC but have a converter that steps down the current to 12V DC

Which works perfect for a car.

With no guides available online that I could see.

I decided to give it a shot, not having a clue what to do

I looked up how to take apart a PS2 Slim

Remove all the screws from the bottom of the case

Now starting from the back left, slowly pull the case off. Be careful of the eject and power buttons.

I had to break a plastic connecter that was holding the lid on

With the top of the PS2 out of the way, your left with a heap of jibberish

*Jibberish being I know nothing about electronics

I look where the AC goes into the PS2 and see you can unclip the unit.

Remove one screw and the whole unit just pops out. Beauty, now what?

I now know that the thing I just removed is like a step down transormer that converts AC to DC. Well we can do away with that! I clip the wires and the AC unit is history.

At the front of the removed unit I can see the AC input, and at the back, where the unit connects to the rest of the PS2, I see this writing on the circuit board. It says 'output 7.5V' thats what I'm looking for

The car battery is around 12V, not bad.

But! The PS2 car adapter that I brought earlier, steps a 12V current down to 8.5V, which is much more safer for my PS2.

I cut the plug off, strip the wires back and wire it in to the PS2

The White is Power and the Black is Ground leading into the PS2.

Solder and heatshrink it up and you have a harwired PS2 to run natively on 12V

At this point I'm scared but excited.

I nervously touch the positive wire and negative wire to the battery and the PS2 lights up!

I balance the PS2 precariously and press the power button and it stirs to life!

From within the car I hear the PS2 noise come on!

At this point I'm cheering and over the moon.

Now I'm still putting it all in my car, wiring everything to swithces and fuses to make it a very clean install, but I thought I'd share with you all how to wire in a PS2 to your car with ease.

Mine is going into the glove box for a stealth install.

Can't wait to play some retro gaming :)

Let me tell you, I know sh!t all about electronics.

But I do have a solder and heatshrink :)

And if you have those two simple things and want a PS2 in your car like me it is simple as! And is a very cool thing to have to impress passengers.

It took me about half an hour to convert the PS2 to DC and is going to take me about another hour to wire it all up nicely and put switches in etc.

If you have an old PS2 lying around, I suggest you give this a go :)

Let me know what you think,

Any questions post em up and I'll try and help out

Callum

One cigarette lighter is never enough!

So I decided to install a triple adapter, stealth

And also hard wire a phone charger to a compartment.

Pretty simply to do and takes about an hour.

I got my cigarette lighter splitter from eBay as well as the charge, set me back $5 for both

You can also install a GPS or whatever you please that runs from your cigarette lighter

First off you want to remove your dash (guide)

Find the RED power wire that goes to your cigarette lighter and cut it off. Same for the GROUND wire

You could splice into it, but I don't plug anything in there anyway so off it goes.

Strip the ends off all wires and wire them up. Don't forget to solder and heatshrink

The triple split adapter

Drill a hole in the middle drawer compartment of your dash small enough to feed the cable through.

Cut the end off your charger. feed it through and then solder and heathsirnk the ends. Or electrical tape if you don't have the right size heatshrink :D

Theres the plug wired up and heatshrinked

I applied tape to the back of the drawer to stop it from moving. Bit tacky but no one can see it anyway.

The plug in the compartment just waiting for an iDevice

Plug the charger into your cigarette lighter, clean up behind your dash and reassemble everything

Just to prove it works :P

Thats it guys, really simple guide.

But it always handy to be able to charge your phone, stealthly.

Nothing worse than a big dirty phone charger sitting on your dash.

Any questions, post em up

Callum

Heres the HU playing a DVD, SICK at night!

From the back

The UI

Now, installation is just the reverse of removal. Put everything back in and do all the bolts up.

All back together nicely (must say its a tight fit!)

I love this new HU, its so good and impresses everyone that jumps in.

I love the Bluetooth Audio feature which streams all my music from my iPhone and allows my phone to take calls as well with the built in microphone. Good solid unit and for $175 I'm stoked!

Goodluck guys, any questions, post em up

Callum

With the strong Aussie dollar I decided to get myself a top quality chinese HU

I purchased an Eonon D2102 for around $175 delivered with a 6' screen.

Which was far cheaper than the Sony HU I was looking at at Autobarn, $500

it has Bluetooth streaming, DVD/CD playing, USB, MP3 the lot! Everything short of Blu-Ray is supported on this HU

At first the HU did not power on, but that was because I figured out,

You have to double tap the power button when you first turn the device on

Something which was inherrintly missing in the manual and caused much frustration.

Anyway here is my guide on how to I went about it

First off get yourself one of these from your local car audio spot

Just ask them for a Corolla to ISO and they will know what you are referring to

Makes the whole process plug and play, instead of wiring indivudal wires up

Cost me $20

Next remove your dash (click)

You will see a few bolts like this. Get your 10mm socket and extension bar and undo them all to remove the HU

Disconnect all wiring and this is your HU out

Remove the pieces of plastic on the side on the HU, I think they are referred to as rabbit ears.

Connect your Corolla to ISO wiring kit to the stock wiring

Also connect anything else to the HU.

I connected RCA cables for my PS2 and a USB extension to my glove box.

Didn't really want to have to pull this thing out again so do it right the first time.

Connect the Eonon Cable's to the ISO cabling and turn your car to ACC

Double tap the SRC button and it will turn on