lasertip
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Posts posted by lasertip
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Slightly off topic; I saw the link that jrhowie put up. The car is automatically locked when the key isn't within range.
Would it be possible to configure the stock keyless start system to do that too?
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By steering stalk, do you mean one of those remotes that clips to your steering wheel rim to remote control your head unit? If so, then yeah that's the simplest, but not the best solution IMO.
With a bit of wiring knowledge (or at least soldering and instruction-following ability) your best bet is to get a Kenwood compatible PAC-SWI unit (make sure your head unit is compatible with a wired remote first, of course) which will allow you to use your standard steering wheel controls. As Hamster said, a search and some reading could have told you this. Or the FAQ.
Personally, I used a metra axxess aswc kit for my pioneer headunit.
Checked JB-Hifi for the PAC-SWI unit. 200bucks. Just order it off amazon, cheaper even with shipping. Piece of cake to install.
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Thanks DJKOR i appreciate your knowledge its more the cooler looking is why i want climate control.. i have replaved my head unit with a decent double din, looks great. On another note what would you say if i painted my steering wheel trims and left dash trim and door trims (the silver ones that are an inch or so in height) body colour? Which is 8t0 carribean blue? Your opinion is much appreciated also gloss satin or matte clear is my options as im a vehicle painter by trade... Cheers :)
Hmm... most modders do carbon fibre wrap but you've got a pretty interesting idea there.
Personally, I like the silver trim which is why I didn't carbon fibre wrap mine.
IMO, carribean blue might look a little odd in a greyish cabin. I would go for a more generic color, say a different shade of silver or gloss white?
Good choice with changing the headunit. I put it off till recently, should have done it first.
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g'day im new to the toyota forums and am learning!
i have an Aurion AT-X 2008 it has the usual airconditioning knobs cluster, i was wondering if you can change them over with the duel-zone climate control cluster without having to modify anything?
Any ideas much appreciated!!!
The two systems have differences that go go beyond the controls.
From A8-A9 of Air_Conditioning.pdf, a few examples that the dualzone a/c has over the manual would be:
-air mix control servo motor (passsenger side)
-a/c solar sensor
but for the specifics, I would defer DJKOR and his wisdom :P
TBH, I find that the dual zone aircon is pretty useless. In fact, neither me nor my passengers have ever used the dualzone function.
Climate control wouldn't be of much use unless you're going on long journeys (which i don't do very often)
It certainly looks cooler than the manual a/c but otherwise, serves no purpose.
If I were you, I would perhaps put my money towards getting a better headunit
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1. Factory head unit produces a rushing noise which is quite audible when you plug in the amps.
2. For good bass, you'll need speakers that are able to reproduce strong lower frequencies. Otherwise, you'd be looking at an amp+sub combo.
3. Most aftermarket headunits produce reasonably good quality sound without an additional amp (50w x 4)
I'd recommend changing the crappy stock head unit and putting in good aftermarket speakers.
You can also consider installing an additional 4ch amp and/or an amp+sub combo in the future.
If you're not getting a navigation head unit, I recommend that you buy it from US (same with speakers). Less than half the price of aus.
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I called up Toyota in Osbourne Park for a quote, it was $480 for 1 bulb and an extra $210 to install it.
WHAT!? Biggest ripoff of the century. 690bucks to replace a bulb!? You can get a full philips hid conversion kit for 125 incl shipping.
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1. The rushing noise (hiss) is probably produced by the stock head unit and amplified by the amp. There's nothing that you can do about it besides changing the HU
You can try to confirm this by unplugging the high level inputs on your amp, plugging in an mp3 to the amp via RCA to 3.5mm
If the noise dissapears, this confirms that it's the head unit causing it.
2. Alternator whine
Many possible causes. Since your power and REM cables are separated from the speaker wire, it shouldn't be the cause of the issue.
Look for exposed wire. If you have bare wire touching the vehicle body, it's certain to introduce the whine. If possible, check whether the whine is coming from any particular speaker.
If it's coming from a specific one, you'll want to check the wiring for that speaker. Even a strand of copper touching the vehicle body WILL introduce significant noise.
It's quite unlikely that a poor ground is the cause.
I'm running 2 760w amps and I'm not getting any issues despite simply bolting the ground cables to existing holes in the vehicle body without sanding.
Source of knowledge:
many, many, many hours of climbing over my car like a monkey
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Update:
So i installed Rockford front & rear speakers, powered by a 4ch 760w Pioneer amp.
A 10" Alpine sub powered by a bridged 2ch 760w Pioneer amp.
The amps are hooked directly to the high level outputs from the headunit. I simply cut stock wiring and channeled signal to the amp, then amp output back to speakers.
As for the stock tweeters, I left them untouched. So far, SQ is great (besides the rushing noise from the stock hu) and stock tweeters work fine.
New pioneer hu coming in from US next week. Let's see how it goes.
Oh, and from pg104 of Audio_Visual.pdf (Aurion service manual), the tweeters are connected in parallel with the front speakers i.e. LH tweeter is connected in parallel with FL speaker. As to the physical location of this connection, I'm not sure
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+1 keyless entry and keyless start
I always get confused when I drive the other family cars without keyless start. Put my hand on the dash to push the start button and I realise that it's not there
ZR6 - power pass seat, heated exterior mirrors, auto dipping exterior mirrors (can be switched off!), rain sensing wipers, rear sun blind, sunroof, sat nav + 8 speakers & amp under drivers seat, leather, keyless entry & start. The list goes on... wouldn't be without my keyless entry - no fumbling in the supermarket carpark... upgrade model, of course.
Need I say more?
Yea that's the aurion S2. If I'm not wrong, it's +10k for a S2 aurion compared to S1. I got my ZR6 with 20,000k within your price range. Look around, you'll find a good deal!
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So 2 months later, the crappy sony speaker installation is history. Got some experience from it though.
Now I've got Rockford front & rear speakers powered by a 4ch 760w Pioneer amp
a 10" alpine sub in a sealed box powered by a 2ch bridged 760w Pioneer amp
All installed perfectly by myself
SQ is pretty awesome, even with the stock head unit (which will be replaced by a pioneer HU next week)
However, there's an annoying rattle in the boot. I suspect it's coming from the spoiler. I've already pulled out the rear parcel shelf and dampened the metal shelf under it but the rattle is still there.
Anyone experiencing that problem?
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BNO that's an awesome looking setup.
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+ cup holder cannot open widely seem to be stuck somewhere underneath.
Should have checked carefully before you bought it
Not sure about the ticking noise. I'm sure that someone else can offer you some advice on that.
For the cupholder, you can try removing the panel and checking the mechanism. Perhaps there may be something blocking or simply that the mechanism is faulty.
It's really simple:
1. Unscrew the shift knob and take it off
2. Just lift up the armrest, no need to remove it
3. Tug on the 2 panels on either side to loosen it. It should unclip easily.
4. Pull the panel upwards. You shouldn't require too much force otherwise you're not doing it correctly.
- You may have to put the gear to "D" to make room to lift the panel. Of course, make sure that the engine is off, parking brake is on and your car will not roll off.
- You may have to unclip some of the wiring to take the panel out and examine it. Everything should just unclip and clip back easily.
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Out of curiosity what sort of rims are you replacing?
Replacing stock TRD 19x8s in silver.... For Sale after thursay if anyone is interested. Perfect condition no scrubs or scrapes, tires at 75%.
if only you were in perth....
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Hmm..now I'm afraid to show what I have in build...
So true. Given that this is a public forum in which majority of actively participating members are modders, it would be far more encouraging and welcoming to turn down flaming a notch.
Showing displeasure can be as polite as "sorry dude, not my cup of tea"
damn, I sound like a hippie
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Wheeww. Getting hot in here.
IMO a little mod is good for the sake of being unique. Not to be overdone though.
However, I never really agreed with the noisy exhaust thing. No need to announce to the entire suburb that I'm cruisin' through.
With regards to the original post however, I've driven toyotas, hondas and mercs.
My biggest issue with toyotas is that they just can't match honda and mercs in terms of material quality.
By quality, I mean flimsy cabin panels, crappy plastic clips, etc.
The quality of hondas cabin finish is comparable to mercs.
Sound quality: The honda odyssey has an epic stock sound system. Toyota has a lot of catching up to do here (if they even bother trying)
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Since both the speaker and tweeter have different power ratings putting it in parallel or crossover will make one louder than the other.
Spoke to Steven about it. That's what he said as well. However, the distortion shouldn't be noticeable, especially since mine ain't exactly a high end setup.
Just an old 10" alpine sub with a kicker amp. Cheap rockford fosgate prime front & rear speakers and a mid range 760w 4ch pioneer amp.
I'll put it all in using the stock head unit and see how it goes. Tweeters remain connected to factory head unit while amp is hooked up to existing wiring via high level outputs. Sub amp ran in parallel with rear speakers.
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Hey guys,
Well I just messaged Steven this question but I thought that it might be good to hear some opinions as well.
Currently, I have a stereo amp wired in parallel to the rear speakers, powering a subwoofer.
I've ordered a 4ch pioneer amp and rockford fosgate front & rear speakers.
I was thinking of getting an aftermarket head unit, and using this setup:
My question is about the stock tweeters. I'm aware that they need a high pass filter. I read in a previous post by Steven that the tweeters have some kind of capacitor in them.
I'm confused as to whether the filters are in the stock head unit, somewhere in the tweeter speaker cable or built into the tweeter?
Is it possible that I simply connect the tweeters in parallel with the front speakers or do I need a crossover?
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bump.
Apparently someone else has already thought of the idea before me.. chanced upon these:
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I spoke with the guys at JB HiFi today and they do not do installs here at the Cairns store. Anyone have any other recommendations up here in FNQ? Would an auto electrician be an option???
It looks like you know your way around a car and workshop 'lasertip'... the second effort looks much neater and I am sure the SQ will benefit too... I can't wait to get my stuff installed... will make driving an already awesome car that much more enjoyable...
Thanks dude! Honestly, it isn't hard. It would be a great learning experience if you did it yourself!
If you buy a co-axial and a tweeter seperate the sound signature will probably be different so it will sound weird or not normal. That's why you should get components for the front.
If your budget is tight you could put the 6.5" co-axial into the back and buy a component for the front.
Cal there are plenty of instructions on this forum onto how to install a sound system. It's not that hard once you read all the info there is here. Check the FAQ if you want to read it.
I'll order my stuff from US. I'm trying to get more powerful rear speakers so that I won't need a sub.
RMS and Peak Wattages are for 1 speaker. For shipping, I have a friend who can collect it for me, so I only pay for shipping within US
Front:
Rockford Fosgate P1653 6.5" Component (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=112885)
3 Way | 60W RMS | 120W Peak | 60Hz-24KHz Response | 40USD Free shipping
Rear:
Either
1.
MB Quart Formula FTA169 6x9" Coaxial (http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/car-sound/car-speakers/mb-quart-fta169-6x9-inch-3-way-car-speakers/436118)
3 Way | 50W RMS | 180W Peak | 40Hz-32KHz Response | 44USD Free shipping
or
2.
Rockford Fosgate R1693 6x9" Full Range(http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=112913)
3 Way | 60W RMS | 120W Peak | 48Hz-22KHz Response | 45USD Free shipping
Amp:
Pioneer GM-6500F (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-6500F)
4/3/2 Channel | 60W x 4 Continuous @ 4ohms | 760W Max | 120USD + 18USD shipping
Amp powering all 4 speakers. Bass may not be as strong as I hoped but there's always room for expansion. Could always put in another amp for the front speakers and connect the pioneer amp to a sub.
What do you guys think?
What if instead I had
Rear:
Kenwood KFC - 6983PS 6x9" Coaxial (http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Speakers/6''_x_9''_Speakers/KFC-6983PS)
4 Way | 110W RMS | 450W Peak | 66Hz-22KHz Response
Amp:
Pioneer GM-5500T (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-5500T)
2 Channel | 125W x 2 Continuous @ 4ohms | 820W Max
Rear speakers running off amps and front running off stock head unit?
Thing is that the Kenwood 6983s are 102.4mm deep, 78mm mounting depth. Can they fit?
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I'm not so sure if it's the best idea to get a standalone tweeter as it might not mix with the woofer. That's why components were made so both would sound the same.
If you do have to get a standalone tweeter i recommend one that is silk dome. I have listened to all tweeters designs possible and silk dome is easily the best. Smooth and easy on the ears.
So you're saying that it's best to leave the stock tweeters unless I'm getting it in a set with the sub?
Anyway, I made mounts for the speakers today. Bass is now a little stronger and it looks sort of decent now. Was a pretty simple job with a drill and jigsaw.
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The stock are light because they use neodinium magnets instead of ferrite magnets. They are far more powerful magnets by nature and hence only a small one is needed.
Im using mini xt25 vifa tweeters in my car in the stock location, they go well
Most people use 6.5 speakers for various reasons, mostly being mounting depth issues and virtually all component speaker sets use a round speaker rather than the oval 6x9
The way youve mounted it doesnt keep the front and back waves separated nor does it aid in using the door as an effective enclosure for the speaker. As a result it will cost you a fair bit in speaker efficiency and bass response.
Yup. Neodymium magnets have better magnetic properties than ferrite ones but somehow or other... the stock speakers are terrible.
Call it a preconceived bias or not but even with this horrible setup, I'm getting an improved bass response and far better clarity.
Sounds reasonable, use the door as a sub enclosure, allowing the entire door to resonate.
Looks like I'll have to do this sooner than I hoped to. Since today is the last day of my uni week, looks like it's time to break out the powertools
What do you think if I built a custom mount of a single board of plywood that covers the entire gap in the door and mounted the speaker on a hole cut in the middle with minimum gaps in between?
Is there any use for the retarded 11buck foam spacers that I bought?
I use 6.5" components at the front because you can't get 6x9 components in Australia from what i know. I would prefer to have a 6x9 components though.
My tweeter is located at where the stock on is.
I'll try to take a photo of my front 6.5" woofer to show everyone how i stalled it in the 6x9 hole. Don't think anyone has done it my way yet but we'll see.
Which tweeter did you get?
Besides the xt25 recommended by steven, are there any other good, value-for-money tweeters around?
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I would leave the tweeters where they should be. On the dashboard night next to the windscreen. It sounds much better then having it on the door as sound would rebound off the windscreen giving more surround sound.
I would have 1 amp under each front seat. My setup is speaker amp under passenger seat and amp sub under driver seat but i have my sub under my seat.
JB hifi are qualified car installers so there shouldn't be much problem with them.
A few questions:
1. Has anyone changed their tweeters?
2. Why does it seem like everyone uses 6.5" speakers for the front and 6x9" for the rear? Why aren't 6x9s used in front?
So I dropped by supercheapauto to get a replacement fuse and saw these for pretty cheap:
http://www.sony.com.au/product/xs-gtf1627
Got them for 40bucks. The sony website sure makes these little suckers look pimped up.
Was late at night and I didn't want to take out the mitre saw and wake the neighbours so I just did it the quick and crappy way with a small piece of plywood.
I can see the number of people shaking their heads right now. Some time when I'm free, I'll redo them properly with a plywood board or perhaps change them to better ones.
Would it make a big difference if I put the foam padding thingy on the speakers? Stupid thing cost 11bucks... for 2 rings of foam.
They certainly are an upgrade from stock speakers which by the way are surprisingly light.
Intend to get these for the back and an amp to power them. Probably won't need a subwoofer then.
http://www.en.kenwood.com.pa/Car_Entertainment/Speaker_Systems/Altavoces_Ovaladas/KFC-6993PS
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each to their own :)
Nice! I never thought that those would go well with the aurion but you proved me wrong :P
I'm switching mine to LED strips around the headlights. Waiting for them to come in
Smart Entry/Smart start options
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
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Mine doesn't lock automatically. Of course, you should lock your doors when you leave the car but once in awhile when you forget, it would be a great safety net if the car would lock itself when the key is no longer in range.