robmac1

My vehicle is a 2001 model and does not have front cameras.

However, I believe the control for the front cameras are on the steering wheel. You may need to hold the buttons down to keep an image on the screen. Have a play around and let us know.

Another good resource for Estima is here: http://www.teoc.ws/

Scroll to the bottom of the home page and select "new estima" .

There are a few aussies on TEOC who have vehicles with front cameras so you could ask them.

Changing head units and keeping front and rear camera working seems to be a minefield.

Does anyone have a technical service manual, or any other manual for that matter for a 2002 Hiace Regius Ace Super Custom LWB 4WD 4 cylinder turbo diesal 3Lt automatic with overdrive, commuter van. Work needs to be done on the vehicle before we can take it on a trip. We would be happy to pay for a photo copy version, and reimburse for time taken to photo copy it should the manual not be available to purchase. Thanks for taking the time to

read this, cheers.

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=8/SUBID=137/page=1/products.html

Sorry for the late reply.

I'm looking to up rate the brakes but not finding much out there thats not ridiculously priced so my idea is to put Celica gt4 turbo hubs and calipers on to my struts, can any one tell me if this is a straight swap or not the hubs thats is?

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated especially an easy to follow guide of how to plumb in a Greddy 2 EBC?

Cheers

Steve

Enter your Caldina serial number here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

The model will be determined and a list of parts and images become available.

Look up the brake section and determine the part numbers of the discs and calipers and note them down.

Then go to here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref

Enter the part numbers and you will be given a list of vehicles where the same part is used.

This may help in finding green stuff pads at a good price because you will know what models the pads will fit.

As to interchangeability , I have no idea.

Good luck.

Hello everyone! I am new to the forum and new to Toyotas. I am a VW Bus driver back home in the US, but my girlfriend and I have moved to Australia for a year to travel and see this lovely continent. We have found a seemingly good deal on a 1991 Toyota LiteAce. It has low KM's for the year (206,000), the body is in great shape, new-ish tires with lots of tread, and it ran great during the test drive. We want to turn it into a camper and the small size suits our needs. Plus, we enjoy the bit higher headroom than the hiace. The only problem is, we can't find much information about the liteace anywhere on the net. It has a 1.8L motor and an automatic transmission with overdrive. How reliable are these? Are they as reliable as their big brother, the hiace? It appears to be maintained well. Is there anything known to be prone to breaking on them? Anything specific I should look for? Does anyone know what kind of fuel consumption the liteace has?!? Any information, or personal experiences with the liteace would be wonderful. Thanks for sharing!

Peace,

Jeremy

I'm not sure what you budget is for the conversion. But it may work out a better deal to buy a purpose built import vehicle?

http://www.southernspecialvehicles.com.au/cars-for-sale/?make=TOYOTA

The Regius is Toyota SBV Hiace with an 2.4 L RWD configuration. It has 4 wheel discs and 4 speed auto with ECT (electronically controlled transmission). The Regius is purpose built in Japan as a Camper and typically very low k's when Sold as an import in Australia. At less than $30k they represent good value compared to the cost of high quality fit out of a local Hiace and all the work is done. Aircon and sound system included. Dual battery, beds, storage etc etc. They are also made in 4WD amnd sometimes this model turns up at the importers/seller.

The link is for illustrative purposes and not a endorsement of the seller. However SSV are generally considered an OK company. You should find one of Sydney based JDM (japanese domestic market) importers resellers around your area will have something similar.

The only slight hitches are insurance (Shannons insure my Estima (JDM Tarago) and parts. Parts are not really a problem, there are enough ebay contacts and dealers who will import parts for you. Being a Toyota commercial not much goes wrong anyway.

The Regius is great vehicle to drive and a much higher build quality than anything locally made. A few friends used the Regius (passenger versions) as trade vehicles with the rear seat removed.

....now just to find out how to run the wires to the back, i'm thinking i have to remove the roof trim?

You can run a cable under of the bottom edge of the door step trims and then inside the rear trim panel.

and not having much luck finding an aftermarket remote control,

http://www.wholesalecarkeys.net/

This company may be able to help. Pull the remote apart and read the number off the transmitter module and send them an email. I assume your remote is separate to keys.

.

I fill with 98 the van seems to run better.

My radiator cap is marked "1.1" presumably 1.1 bar, which is slightly under 16 psi.

Take note of the heating. Check the electric cooling fans are working correctly. Another Estima owner in Victoria was sold a van with a weepy head gasket. So a proper leak test of the cooling system may be a good idea.

Enjoy your Estima.

Just picked up an 09 Tarago/Previa only to get home and find the CD stacker not working and the DVD player not working. The dealer is meant to be getting the remote and headphones from the previous owner but I'm a bit sick of ringing and hearing they have left a message and he's bringing them in tomorrow.

It was written into the contract that the entertainment system needs to be working and we were told it was, just that we are waiting on the remote.

Since I don't know anyone with one to check I have a few questions so we are armed to fight and can possibly have a look and figure out what the problem is so I know they've fixed it properly.

First, the book says the unit remains on but shuts off the screen when you close it, however it also says you can turn the unit on and off with the remote. Could it just be that the DVD player needs the remote to turn it on or should it power up when the car turns on or if I insert a DVD? It does not appear to have any power at all.

Second, the previous owner has obviously upgraded the sat nav unit as it's not the stock one from the original owners manual. I do however have an owners manual for it. It appears he upgraded a lot of options when he bought this car. Is it possible that they didn't hook up the DVD player properly when they installed it? The disc/aux button doesn't seem to see the DVD player and neither does the mode button.

Where would I check for problems? I have already checked two fuses, a 15A one under the hood and a 7.5A one down on the drivers side in the car. Is there any others? Where does the wiring run for it to get power? There are heaps of wires and I've never had a Tarago before.

Oh, and the radio reception is terrible! It's actually worse than our Pajero which has had the antenna snapped off when we were 4wding. I'm guessing they've botched something when they upgraded the sat nav and he didn't bother or didn't care about getting it fixed.

I will be getting a manual ASAP but as I literally only just bought this car I will be making them fix it and anything else I find wrong with it. It'd just be handy to know what's wrong so I can check they fixed it properly.

I'm no expert on the Tarago but the Estima ICE system is a fully integrated system. The in dash unit sends program to the drop down screen which has it's own remote. Communication is via a propriety toyota format called AVLAN (audio visual local area network)

I would assume the Tarago has much the same system which is purpose built for Oz

If the in dash unit has been replaced with after market then the system has been seriously hacked into and the cd/ DVD stacker may not work.

The standard fix for this is to fit a aftermarket sat nav /radio/ cd player/ mp3 player to the the dash. And to fit totally seperate DVD player/ drop down screen unit to the rear of the vehicle.

You may be about to test how well the dealer can meet the terms of the contact.

Hi guys,

Thinking off get a Estima and does the rear seats have ISO Fix?

As I have ISO Fix baby seat and i wanted to used on the Estima too.

Also i wanted a Estima with the following options:

Leather Interior

Twin Sunroofs

Power Sliding doors

Cruise control

Front & Rear cameras

Which models have all these options?

Cheers!

Daniel

Hi Daniel,

I assume you are talking a ACR (2.4L) OR MCR (3L) Estima. Both are available as 2WD (XXX30) OR 4WD (XXX40)

Leather Interior: AFAIK there are no factory leather interiors on the range. I've seen tight fitting leather covers on a few Estimas

Twin Sunroofs: Most Areas versions have this feature

Power Sliding doors: It's an option - hit and miss whether vehicle that is found in Japan has them.

Cruise control: Same as above. But I believe if you get face lift model (2003-2005) with drive-by-wire throttle, a Camry aftermarket CC can be fitted for around $600.

Front & Rear cameras: Most have the rear cameras . Face lift model have f & rear cameras and steering wheel audio & camera controls.

You could also look for a vehicle with the Optitron Dash (has a flouro tube in the dash for illumination) Thy can be identified because the dash is totally dark when the ignition off. It lights up brilliant white.

Try to get a vehicle with discharge head lights (HID) headlights and proximity soanar as well.

All of the Aeras models have dual aircon and some (cold climate versions) have rear heaters as well.

Estima G Aeras (Aerasu) is the top line model where you are most likely to find these options.

I would choose a 3L over a 2.4L and if I had my time again probably get a 4wd instead of 2wd. The V6 2wd are a bit prone to torque steer at take off if you sink the boot.

If you get the 3L be aware that cam belt should be replaced at 100,000km or seven years of age. Check the engine oil is clean the V6 had a sludge problem if not maintained.

Try to negotiate the purchase with two radio remote door unlock controls and check the key works in all doors as well.

Also be aware the Stereo/Dvd (and the rear drop down screen) is designed for Japanese NTSC standard, So Aust DVDs won't play and the sat nav won't work and can't be economically converted to Aust maps. You will need a band expander to tune the full FM band. They have an audio input so you can play audio from an Iphone.

They are a fantastic vehicle and the build quality and features leave the Aust Tarago for dead.

You could do worse than visit an Importer based in Abbotsford. Jon is a man of his word and has "honest" vehicles.

EDIT: No rear seats don't have isofix. Just the bolt in the floor.

i have a valet key from toyota ($60) and i have 1 master key . i need the to program key to get it to start the car.

i need the sequence of programming the key .

If it's like an Estima (Japanese Tarago) you need to program the key "chip" into the body ECU. This needs the correct programmer.

The cheapest way is take your working key to a "Mister Minute" and have both the key cut and chip duplicated,

It cost me $70 all up.

If Toyota called on you for suggestions on how to improve the RAV4, what would you tell them?

What annoying things would you take out, and what features or functions would you add?

So far I've got:

Automatic door locks at 15mph.

Better cargo area lighting.

Remove that bloody ugly spare wheel from the tail gate. It dates the vehicle to the Willys Jeep era.

Whoops - should have read the entire thread.

I've seen early Taragos pimped up like this:

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?38733-Little-old-Toyota-Tarago.....V8

It should be even easier with the wider engine bay of a Hiace!

I bet the Tarago surprises a few people.

Harrop performance make the engine to gearbox adaptor kits and engine mount kits.

i just bought a imported toyota estima areas s 2003 model.. i been checking with few insureance company but only justcar can insurance this car got quoted over the phone for $1128 exc:$825.. anyone else got cheaper than this amount ??? please let me know what company you with and how much it cost you.

Mine is 2001 V6

Shannons insure agreed value $20k for a yearly premium of $829.00 . We have two Rating 1 "listed" drivers.

I have try Shannon's but when they ask me does your mum go to car shows I say : no then they wouldn't insure the car tell me to ring justcar LOL, should I try again say : yes see what happen..?

Conditions are:

Private usage, $550 basic excess, $1500 excess for under 25 not listed on certificate. Garaged.

Shannons only have one listing for the V6 Estima, so you must select 2000 and ask the Sales staff to note the year in the text of the Policy.

Tell 'um you collect Gogomobiles, Puchs or anything classic car.

Tell 'um you are member of the Toyota Forum and love the classic Toyota.

The will insure you , just sound convincing, after all a Policy is Sale and Sales are what they are after.

I happen to own (and have restored) a 1969 Peugeot 404 , which is with them as well. So it was easy.

i just bought a imported toyota estima areas s 2003 model.. i been checking with few insureance company but only justcar can insurance this car got quoted over the phone for $1128 exc:$825.. anyone else got cheaper than this amount ??? please let me know what company you with and how much it cost you.

Mine is 2001 V6

Shannons insure agreed value $20k for a yearly premium of $829.00 . We have two Rating 1 "listed" drivers.

Conditions are:

Private usage, $550 basic excess, $1500 excess for under 25 not listed on certificate. Garaged.

Shannons only have one listing for the V6 Estima, so you must select 2000 and ask the Sales staff to note the year in the text of the Policy.

"Clicking" in the exhaust is pretty normal for a lot of cars after a long drive.

The smell may the the detergent burning off after the pressure clean preparation for sale.

Provided the temperature gauge sits in the middle of the scale then it should not be overheating.

The TCR series, especially the TCR12 with the fully independent rear end are a magic car. However the 2.4 is definitely a bit under powered IMO.

In the USA they were fitted a clutched supercharger, but we never saw this model in Australia.

I still prefer the handling of my previous RWD TCR12 to my current FWD MCR30. However the V6 is really nice.

The perfect combo would have been the 200 hp V6 in the old egg!

Good luck and enjoy!

I actually think the 2.4l is reasonable pokey. What one needs to remember is that I've moved from a 1988 Tarago RV 2.2l 5 speed manual to this 97 model. I find it more than adequate.

Is mine a TCR12? Is there a list anywhere that tells me what TCR12, and TCR 11 etc are?

Open the bonnet and look inside the engine bay (inside the passenger side front mudguard up towards the windscreen) you will see an aluminium stamped body plate with the model and VIN details.

The various Toyota Tarago models are described in detail here:

http://www.goauto.co...ta&model=Tarago

The TCR12 was the GLS model with the fully independent rear end. This model ceased after 1992?? because of expense of manufacture.

The TCR 20 series are the all trac part time 4wd.

The TCR10 was the early model solid rear axle

The TCR11 was the later model of the TCR10, still with solid rear axle, but with airbags and trim enhancements.

If you think the 2.4 is pokey you should try a MCR30 with 3L (1MZFE) Camry engine!

And I still get around 10.5 km/l

We started with early Tarago too. It was a good vehicle.

Well, I brought it home yesterday. Drives nice. The only thing I would comment on is that the car smells very hot after being driven, and the exhaust system ticks a lot as it cools, indicating that indeed is very hot. Is this normal? the exhaust system doesn't appear to be new. Other than that, i love it!

"Clicking" in the exhaust is pretty normal for a lot of cars after a long drive.

The smell may the the detergent burning off after the pressure clean preparation for sale.

Provided the temperature gauge sits in the middle of the scale then it should not be overheating.

The TCR series, especially the TCR12 with the fully independent rear end are a magic car. However the 2.4 is definitely a bit under powered IMO.

In the USA they were fitted a clutched supercharger, but we never saw this model in Australia.

I still prefer the handling of my previous RWD TCR12 to my current FWD MCR30. However the V6 is really nice.

The perfect combo would have been the 200 hp V6 in the old egg!

Good luck and enjoy!

The diagnosis came from process of elimination. The engine started missing and the cold start switch started to cut in and pump fuel when not needed whenever a bump in the road was run over. After slamming the passenger door (when trying to work out what was causing the problem) the engine stopped missing and would be fine until the next big bump. Then I would just reach over and slam the door and on I'd go. This worked for a time but the door thing stopped being effective. I then started physically tapping around the engine bay trying to locate the cause. I had a couple of false positives and started to think it was the cold start switch but after disconnecting the problem still remained. I then just tapped and tapped until I traced it to the side door pillar where the ECU was located (hence the door slam would rattle the unit)

I removed the unit and sat it on a cushion to absorb the bumps, BINGO! no trouble, not one miss for the next 2 months, then the problem returned and I had to reach behind the passenger seat and tap the unit and then off I'd go again. Obviously theres a loose connection or the board itself is damaged or it could (if I'm lucky!) be just a cable connection into the unit being loose. At the moment being a single parent and holding down a part time job (in other words one of the working poor) I don't have the reserves to have someone charge $100 + to diagnose the problem as being a faulty ECU, then have to buy one when the problem seems pretty conclusive to me. I know I probably could save money if they find a loose cable but it's a gamble where I'm not feeling too lucky of late.

Pete

Pete,

ND electrics are very reliable. I'd be looking at a connection on ECU plug.

Unplug the connector and re-plug a few times. That should remove any oxidation on the pins.

After that I'd check each and every wire crimp of the plug.

Perhaps get it running and jiggle each wire in in turn (use a pair of tweezers) until the fault shows up.

You may need to carefully cut the wiring loom covering tape to be able to jiggle the wires individually.

FWIW I'm still diagnosing a dicky connection rather than faulty ECU.

Never be tempted to spray the connection with a lube or cleaning spray. More problems will ensue.

This appears to be a common problem with these motors: Oh what a feeling! BUGGER.

The TCR series engines are quite different to the ACR/MCR engines. Your Estima engine is 2AZFE (2.4) or 1MZFE (3.0), Davo.

I wouldn't judge the design too harshly: most TCRs are in the 200k-300k mark and have had a few owners. The sludge in the radiator is caused by a lack of maintenance or lack of the correct coolant.

The TCR engines generally last well provided they are not overheated or run when low in oil.

Hi All,

I'm needing to (finally) replace the factory rubber on my 2010 Hybrid, not too shabby after 58,000km.

I was wondering if anyone has experience with anything other that the Chinese made Dunlops it came with - I've not been overly impressed wit them (mainly because they've gone out of balance twice, and are actually quite noisy).

I'm really looking for a nice quite tyre, one that's good on co**** bitumen too as the car does a few B road miles. I'm more than willing to forego a long-wearing tyre for one that's quite!

On a different topic - the car has developed a dull "thrum" or "thudding" at speeds above about 60km/h.... it's not too loud, but irritating. It's almost like the rear tyres are out of balance again.... and I'm hoping new shoes fix the issue, but has anyone the same issue? It's a sound kind of like when you wind down a rear window at speed.... just not as loud! As a former TMCA technician, it's got me stumped!

Luke

I've always had a good run out of Yokohama C drive. Mainly on a Tarago 'tho.

They are quiet. Good for wear if not flogged and have very good wet weather braking and grip. They are also silent.

They do get a bit slippery towards the end of their life, but so do many tyres.

Hi all,

I'm wondering if anybody here can help me save my van from certain death. I'm trying to track down a 2nd hand/ reconditioned ECU for my faithful beast. Surfing the net hasn't as yet turned up anything and having very little luck in the wreckers catagory in the yellow pages where I am and where I'm not!!

Can any of you good folk guide me in any direction other than brick wall to help me save my Tarago, apart from the failed ECU the rest of the car is in fantastic condition and has served me well for 5years so far. Thanks in advance.

Pete

I would be searching the DIY wreckers near you.

ECUs are generally very reliable unless they are drowned or physically damaged.

So you have a pretty good chance of finding a good unit.

How did you diagnose a faulty ECU as your problem?

Hi all. been a couple of years now since I was last here. I had an 88 Tarago RV 5sp Manual 2.2l, and 2 weeks ago it got stolen. They smashed the windscreen, and fried the clutch. Insurance decided to write it off, as engine has also no doubt had it's nuts torn off during the night of burnouts it no doubt did.

Anyway. Just bought myself a 97 GLi tarago. Pick it up next week after it gets it's roadie done.

It's white, doesn't have a bull bar, or a tow bar, but that doesn't particularlt phase me. It's done 240-ish thousand kms. Auto, power bits and pieces. I'm sure you guys are familiar with this model. Anyway, managed to pick it up drive away including rego til July next year and a rwc, and including transfer for $4695. Pretty stoked with the price considering it's a June 97 compliance!

During the test drive, I noticed 2 small things. The first was a whistle type sound that seemed to come from the rear of the car, but ONLY when the accelerator was being used. Sounded almost like that whistle you get in a car that runs on lpg, and the tank is almost empty. The second thing was a slight (almost imperceptible) shudder when slowing down. noticed it most when approaching a round-about. Wouldn't say it was thinking about stalling, but I noticed it. Felt like engine more than body or driveshaft shudder to me. I did just read an old thread on here about some air line under the passenger seat that gets a little one way valve blocked. The thread suggested that removing the valve helps economy and also eliminates the almost stalling issue that was being talked about in that thread. I suspect this might be the cause of what I felt, so i plan to look at that when I get it next week.

Any thoughts or ideas on the whistle?

The whistle is a small exhaust leak in the flange gasket. Most people live with it and accept the noise as a TCR Tarago foible.

I had a 1990 TCR 12 for seven years and whistle was always present and never got any worse.

Our dog would hear the whistle and start barking as soon as I approached the end of our street.

Check the cooling system has coolant (not water) and is clean. If not a radiator removal and clean is a good idea on a 240k Tarago.

Provided you keep the vehicle full of oil and water and service regularly you should have no problems.

I'm guessing they are no go? Fuse, wiring, or sonar sensor ECU.

A detailed description of the fault helps diagnosis.

I'm guessing a wiring issue, based on the general reliability of Nippondenso electronics.

Probably not a fuse because there are no reports or other stuff not working.

Are all the connectors ie plug & sockets firmly pushed home?

I don't have a wiring diagram for a Prado, only Tarago and Previa.

If you have or had a rear step with the side upstands the reversing sonar may have been de-programmed.

Was it working ? Did it stop? Driving in water?

I assume you purchased the Kluger off the dealer who is servicing it or is it still under some kind of Toyota Warranty?

Regardless, I wish you all the best in getting it repaired at minimum cost and inconvenience.

FWIW , some googling suggests that the Toyota Highlander (very similar vehicle to the Kluger in other countries) have a low level head gasket issue that usually shows up at less than 100,000km.

To playwme

What does the Avalon kit consist of?

Chapmam1

See post #11 in this thread. http://www.teoc.ws/c...age__hl__cruise

Also see post #18 which states the stalk isn't OEM Toyota.

The images are attached.

This was fitted to 2004 JDM Estima Import

http://www.erisin.com/page.html?id=74

Ersin are based in Australia as well and substantially cheaper than Elinz.

Ersin ship to Australian destination free of charge and have an identical product range.

It's the difference between dealing with a reseller (Elinz) and a manufacturer (Ersin).

Hi there everyone,

First time on a forum and first post so here I go.. I have a 2009 kluger kxs fwd and wanted to know any views on white smoke blowing from muffler.. Has been sitting through the night and turning it on this morning white smoke was pouring out for about 5min.. Really don't know if this is normal but I will take it back down to Toyota for a check, but wanted to know any views from owners themselves if they know what the haps is.. It's a used kluger which I only got yesterday with about 82k on it and runs well and all is good so far apart from turning the engine on this morning with white smoke pouring out...

Hopefully I can get some views and help on the topic and would much appreciate it..

Cheers

Jaston

If the white smoke is oil-

The car over full with oil

The stem seals on the valves are worn.

The piston rings are worn

The pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is blocked

Oil will produce "blue" smoke not white.

Most likely if it is only for a few minutes, as Kenshin stated, it is more than likely condensation. If it persists for a greater period of time then there is a possibility there are larger issues at hand, but lets not jump the gun.

Under load oil will usually burn "blue" due to more complete combustion.

At idle, when combustion is incomplete, oils can burn "white".

Synthetic and semi synthetic oils burn with different colours (and smells) to mineral oils.

Mineral oils create the classic "blue haze" behind the vehicle.

I agree with you in so much it's not likely that such a new vehicle has serious problems.

But since it has just been purchased a degree of caution is prudent.