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LivingTheDream

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Posts posted by LivingTheDream

  1. I'm selling a set of 4 x Cooper Zeon LTZ 255/55/19 off my 2012 Kluger Altitude. I bought these tyres brand new 3 months ago and have done 4788kms on them. I just traded the car in today so I stripped them off. These tyres are in excellent condition with the majority of km's being done driving from Adelaide to Flinders Ranges. PM me if you are interested.

    I can organise freight at your expense.

    I will only sell as a set at $1000ono.

    I haven't had time to take photos, but can do upon request, or tyres can be viewed.

  2. Its only pumped as the engine is cranking. As for the fuel filter, try fitting a quality brand i.e. Ryco or Genuine. Depending on the kilometres, you may have a leaking injector causing slight flooding overnight? You may want to try an injector/throttle body clean? There are so many possibilities.

  3. The answer is NO. If the water pump had failed it would not leak water into the engine oil, the water pump is not linked anywhere into the oil gallery of the engine. Typically if the water pump fails and needs to be removed, some/most timing belt cars would require the removal of the timing belt to gain access to the water pump. At that point in time it would be recommended to replace the belt, therefore not having to repeat the job in a few months, kilometres later. On a job like that I would install a new timing belt kit, which would include belt, pulleys, seals, water pump and tensioner. This can be a bit of an overkill at 100,000km but at least it's piece of mind.

    Sounds to me they have misdiagnosed the issue and don't want to hand back money. If the water pump had failed it would do one of a few things. It would become noisy i.e. whine or a rumbling type noise, it would leak i.e. front seal or inspection/bleed hole in the housing, or engine temperature would climb because the impeller wasn't pumping water around the engine. The impeller issue is quite common on Audi & VW, not late model Toyota. The noise you were complaining about could have been an alternator bearing, power steering pump, air con compressor or even the idler/tensioner pulleys for the timing belt. If it was me (and this is why I do not take my car to mechanics even under warranty- being one I know how many dodgy guys there are out there-NOT ME), I would demand a refund and if they do not refund the costs contact your Department of Fair Trade. If they are a Franchise i.e. Ultra Tune, Auto Masters, Midas, KTAS, etc, contact the head office and complain, they'll do virtually anything to rectify or refund. Then I would take the car elsewhere and have it repaired properly, because the original place will keep ripping you off. Good luck

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  4. If your Hilux has a tow bar, check the connectors for the tow plug. Generally when tow bars are fitted whether it be aftermarket or sometimes genuine, rather than soldering the wire for the tow plug, people use scotch locks which eventually corrode and cause all sorts of light issues. If it doesn't have a tow bar, check you have fitted the correct double filament or single filament globes in their respective holders. Also check the holders for corrosion. Good luck

  5. Prodigy 07, yes I have owned second hands vehicles. And as a qualified mechanic who's been in the industry for 20 years and has been running workshops for the last 10 years, I have seen all sorts of dodgy stuff and customers who refuse to fix their cars to a roadworthy/safe manner and then theres those who don't care what they sell to unsuspecting buyers. I fortunately am not one of those people who will sell a wreck or buy a wreck.

    I guess it's the old saying, "buyer beware".

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