Squalled

Update for I believe a new fastest N/A 2ZZ ZZE chassis in Australia (Please correct me if I'm wrong) Time slip listed at the end of the video also. Tyres are 205/50/15 AD08R's. No spare tyre or passenger seats. Mods: - PPE header - Header back 2.5" exhaust with a 2 hotdogs - Competition stage 2 clutch/MWR steel flywheel - MWR alternator/waterpump pulley - 3" Chuned intake - Ported stock intake manifold - MWR billet oil pump gears Also still running the stock ECU and standard tune.

From memory, could be wrong, I remember hearing that stainless generally lasts longer as it won't rust as quickly as mild steel? Not sure on this but I have seen it happen after some time on mild steel systems.

Well 2.5" is the biggest you should go unless you're going cams and onward. The resonator will quieten the sounds and remove the rasp but, the muffler choice is also a big one. A lot of mufflers like cannon style will make it sounds like a bee hive. Literally search up Honda exhausts on eBay, they sure love their "fart cans".

That's fairly decent price. Most places in Sydney seem to charge about $100-$200 more for the same setup. What size piping are going for also? One of the common things I've found is stainless seems to sound a lot more raspy but stainless lasts a lot longer than mild steel too hence the price difference. Just make sure you get a big resonator or 2 small ones to remove the "buzz" unless you like it, all up to you.

Since my last update, not much has really happened. Other than doing an oil change not long after roll racing I haven't made any significant changes since. I do have some other plans coming up soon to get the exterior back up to scratch but that will be for another update once I either receive the parts or get time to do the work. I recently purchased the Bowdens wash and wax since Supercheap had a sale not long ago and thought that it was definitely worth a try seeing as I've used the Meguiars wash and wax for sometime now and have heard a lot of good things about Bowdens (seeing as I've used the naked glass, quick detail and wheely clean prior). Safe to say I am pretty happy with it, very cheap for a 2L bottle, smells awesome (smells identical to banana milk!) and really makes the car shine. I have to finish the Meguiars bottle first which is only a small one but overall I'm pretty happy with the purchase. Decided to take some quick shots once I finished the wash. It had been a few weeks since I gave it a good wash and it worked an absolute treat with the new wash and wax. The next morning the car was covered in moisture so I gave it a quick dry up and took a shot I don't think I've taken ever. Other than that, not much else to add for this update. I'll be fairly busy with work in the coming months so hopefully I'll still be able to keep the updates coming as they come through. Stay tuned!

What section was changed at the front? Before the shouldn't be changed even when you port the headers. Going to 2.5" will be good if you are planning future mods. You'll find 2.25" is the slightly bigger than the standard piping and won't yield as much of a gain if you plan on modding more.

I'll be honest, can probably get most of them on eBay. The BC BR's come with LCA's as well so best to measure them before ordering adjustable ones as the SuperPro (for exmaple) will list it for the stock suspension which uses a longer LCA. If you're going for injen, make sure you go the one piece as the 2 piece design is garbage in my opinion after using it. For the Injen, if you look for Matrix XRS or Corolla XRS on eBay it will list them. Yeah MCA don't make them for our cars but, I did see a rally car with them so they must do them made to order which I'd assume would cost a fair bit of coin. I believe the valving is the reason they're more comfy on stiffer settings like you said. I've been in one car with FAs and it stiffer than mine but no where near as uncomfortable (although I don't find it that bad anyways).

MCAs are quite expensive compared to BC's and they don't have a line up for our cars so it would have to be a custom order which I'd imagine cost even. I got my BC's a few years ago now but I've heard very mixed stories about the current models, mostly bad but they seem to get replaced if they have issues. Only time I'd consider Fortune Auto's are if they're slightly used seeing as they're super expensive new. My rotors seem alright so far actually coming to think of it running T2 with QFMs although, I don't do track days so that might help a bit.

As Jeffy said, biggest you should run with stock internals is 2.5" since it's not too large for our cars. 3" is quite big and even a few cammed guys may not even run that size.

CAI - I have a mate who makes a nice flowing 3" design (2.75" at the maf) which runs like a dream, sounds nice and loud along with being quite cheap also. Shoot me a PM if you want some more details. I've run Injen and a modded Injen and I'd definitely say that Injen is severely over priced for the performance you get. COILOVERS - BC are the most popular option as there readily available. I'd go for the Golds as they are less known to experience issues compared to the reds. They are quite firm on the road so unless you're able to find Fortune Auto's for a good price they're probably the best coilover option. I have seen Tein's also but they run quite low springs rates and don't seem to handle as nicely as BC's. There are also Cusco's but I've known a few guys to move to BCs and said that they were much nicer than the Cusco's. There's a few other brands like D2, K Sport, XYZ or Yellowspeed but I haven't heard much about them. AIR FILTER - If you're going for CAI, you may as well not go with an upgraded panel filter. The stock intake system is very restricted and the CAI really opens it up. Any good flowing pod like an Injen, K&N or 3A Racing works well with good flow and filtration. SERVICING PARTS - I'd highly recommend full synthetic. I myself run Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 and currently sitting at almost 232000 kms and it barely burns it between changes. Depending on what oil viscosity you are running now and how much it burns, most guys seem to run Nulon or Penrite these days. I've always run OEM filters but Ryco does the same thing as well. BRAKES - I run T2 Slotted Rotors and QFM HPX pads and they are awesome on the street and spirited drives. They leave minimal dust, make no noise and bite very nicely. On the track, they aren't so good as they fade with the heat as I've seen a few guys run them at track days. You'd be able to get away with it if you plan on tracking say once or twice a year. If not, you'd need to consider the A1RM as it's suited to track conditions. SWAY BARS/LOWER CONTROL ARMS - I haven't seen many guys change the sway bars but, most go for the rear torsion bars. Whiteline is nice upgrade with 22mm over the standard 17mm and the fact that it's solid. Really stiffens up the rear end and is honestly one of the best mods to go for. As for lower control arms, I did purchase superpro ones but I stupidly went according to the stock suspension which means they're too long since the BC BR's I run come with shorter control arms. I've yet to find the correct number which will be suited to them so just running the BC ones. I've got 1 or 2 mates that have adjustable ones and they've never really made adjustments to them so it's up to you and whether you'd get a benefit from it. BLACK HOUSING HEADLIGHTS - This is a DIY. Allow at least a day to do and you'll need a heat gun, a few sharp tools (use old ones if you can since they'll get messy), high temp primer and high temp black paint. Up to you whether you go with a gloss or matte finish but most just go matte. The main things you need to be careful with are heating the same spot for a long time which can cause cracking and making sure you heat up spots enough along with placing enough pressure to re-seal them once done to avoid moisture and leaking.

So from my understanding, the whole exhaust is changed which includes headers as well? What size piping did you use for the new exhaust system? I haven't related to this ever since modding my Sportivo but have noticed a fair few guys recently having the same problems.

It's up to you really, from what I understand the pedal feel doesn't feel that much different between the heavy duty and OE. The heavy duty clutches have actually gone up in price since I got mine a few years ago so going OE can definitely save a bit of coin while doing the same job in the process. As long as the master cylinder is adjusted correctly, there are no leaks or air in the system also you won't have issues with gear crunching or grinding unless, something within the gear box has failed or worn out.

As Hiro said, I've also heard people call them "kick strips". You can definitely try find some wrecking a corolla and possibly get the matching paint colour or find any to get on resprayed.

Well, it depends also if the clutch disk itself is worn down. If it is, I doubt replace the clutch plate on it's own would make a difference. Does the current clutch feel "spongy" or seems to bite right at the top at all or slipping even though you've passed the bite point?

Extremely expensive for an OEM FWD clutch, I know that a lot of rear wheel drive cars like Skyline's, Supra's, Falcon's etc pay that kind of money for heavy duty clutches. Exedy is honestly the way to go and I found the car much easier to drive with the heavy duty over stock, but that's just me.