Squalled

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Squalled last won the day on February 5

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About Squalled

  • Rank
    2ZZ-GE Succulent Gains
  • Birthday September 29

Profile Information

  • Would you be interested in attending club meetings?
    Yes
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla Sportivo
  • Toyota Year
    2005
  • Location
    New South Wales
  • How did you find us?
    Google
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Squalled

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Update time, so not long ago I purchased the newest mod to the list. Although when I first saw it in action months earlier I was a little worried but now that issues are sorted I was definitely keen to build further. So with the addition of the new mod, it will give even more benefits from my current mods and any future ones. The Greddy E-Manage, another piggy back unit that allows control of redline, timing and fueling. Combining this unit with the V-Manage basically gives the full options of a stand alone ECU but they work as a piggy keeping all the nicety's of the standard unit. Once I got the unit, it was packaged and sent down to Melbourne, where Ed worked his magic with the harness and basically made it a plug and play unit (in the photo above). Ed made the harness, checked it all and put on a tune for my mods along with the final test which showed all was working. After receiving the package yesterday afternoon, I was obviously super keen to get it installed. After a confirmation of how to get it installed correctly, I gave it a crack this morning. I basically disconnected the main harness plugs, connected them into the E-Manage harness which connected onto the ECU and had the E-Manage patched in. The install was done and I turned the key to make sure all was working. Once it started up I noticed there was a sputter and when I revved a little, it sputtered even more and began back firing along with been hesitant to rev. So I turned it off, turned both switches 2 and 3 on which control the advance in ignition and when I started the car, it idled normally again. So it was off for a test drive and the first thing I noticed was the change in responsiveness, it felt even more lively than it did before the install. I drove around more to get the car warm so I could test the new redline but, sadly not all was well. Once getting above 6200 RPM, the car would immediately began sputtering and not rev anymore. I pulled over and turned switch 3 off as this would reduce the amount of timing and tried again but sadly the same issue was happening. After a discussion with Ed, we decided it would be easier to send the unit back to him to check over as the parameters set shouldn't change and he believes the issue is been caused but a significant change in the timing parameters. So the increased redline dream is on hold for now but I will be sure to keep you all updated. More to come.
  2. I ran a Ultra Racing strut bar on my Honda Prelude I owned previously. Felt a nice improvement in rigidity on the front and it was relatively cheap when I got it at the time. I never ran into any issues with legality. I think their products are excellent and they do offer quite a wide range of bracing.
  3. Will likely need to be a custom item since the dimension are different between the two models. Most E120 chassis rally cars ran a standard spoiler or had a custom spoiler made up, completely different to that of the previous generation.
  4. Another update to add. So last week was a successful week in crossing off some major to-do list fixes that have been on-going for some time now. Last Friday Alec made his way over out to my suburbs to get the headlight plug replaced. I have a spare set of headlights that I never installed as they were in pretty bad condition so, the headlight plug was cut on the current harness and the spare headlight, the new plug soldered on and the globe replaced. The headlight now works as it should, with one more thing to add which is getting the backing cover to fit due to the intake size which will hopefully be this weekend. After the first success, I thought it was definitely time to find the exhaust leak that had been plaguing me for a few months now. Last Sunday I got the car up on stands and went underneath to see if I could see the source before having to start the car and listen to which I saw this. When the leak occurred I was doing a 2nd gear pull onto a motorway and noticed it sounded odd after slowing down, looked to be that the weld weakened the leak was made. I got some exhaust leak repair and spread it over and just around the leak area. I also saw another area which looked suspicious and added some there in the case of a future leak. I let it set and than took it for a test drive and success! No more horrible flappy sounds under throttle. With all the success over last week, I was pretty happy that the most major issues are now fixed up. Later on Sunday I gave the car a good wash, seeing as Sydney had a pretty bad dust storm a few weeks ago and some poor weather in the days after. So in the coming weeks, I'll have another mod to update on and hopefully even give a separate thread review on. Stay tuned!
  5. I do remember the instructor lessons counting as triple but that only accounts for 10 lessons I believe, unless it's changed since I got my license. I know the Safer Drivers course came in a year or 2 after I got on my P's as optional way to get hours.
  6. I believe there is some form of mandatory law for learners in NSW to do an advanced driving course, could be wrong though.
  7. Another quick update. Before the new mod, achievement unlocked. Made it to this earlier last week and it only feels like yesterday I saw the same distance shown in my old Honda Prelude. Now onto the new mod, I actually forget to mention this in my previous post and actually forget I had laying around since the end of last year. After a lot of thinking and seeing my Sportivo's give enough grief when I met up with them, I finally got a short shifter. This is a custom made one, so it's not the MWR or TWM short shifter which sits quite low and has very little play in it. Seems there isn't anything that Ed can't make, with a shifter already to go in the base for a simple and easy installation at home. Funnily enough he actually reminded me I had it and that I should install so last weekend I started nice and early before it got too hot. So I took the extra time to take some rough measurements of the throw distance between 1st and 2nd gear. Sadly I didn't measure the height difference which also different between to the original shifter. So here is the original shifter throw from first to second. After I measure the throw distance, I removed the center console surround which made access a lot easier to all the bolts and shifter cables. I removed the shifter cables from the bottom and side of the mount after removing the clips and than twisting the mechanism at the front to remove the entire cable from the assembly. I than removed the 4 bolts and did have a bit of trouble getting the Speed Source base bushings out as some of them had actually stuck to the bottom of the shifter assembly. Once I got them out the base was free and I gave the area a quick clean. Safe to say the log books are definitely right about the 1st owner been female as I found about 3 bobby pins randomly around the center console area. After the clean, it was matter of doing the steps in reverse which was quite easy now that I knew what I was doing. Once the cables were all mounted, the bushing lined up and tightened down I tested the feel to make sure the gears were engaging. I was worried at first but after sending a video or two to a few mates they confirmed all was good. Gave the center console a nice clean for the normally hard to reach areas and bolted it all back down before re-measuring. As you can see, the shifter is a lot shorter as I tried to take the photo from the same height and this is now the throw distance between 1st and 2nd. After taking the measurements, I went for a drive and thankfully no issues with gear crunching or engagement and all is going well. Overall I'm quite happy with the shifter, it's not too low and the throw is not excessively short like some of the other aftermarket ones out there. I've had in almost a week now and have gotten used to it pretty quick, not used to how quick the shifts are now. I did try out the taller chrome gear knob I have shown before in some older photo's but it literally made it feel like a stock shifter again so I put the stock gear knob back on. I've got a few things planned to get done off the checklist hopefully very soon so stay tuned!
  8. That's the side they usually break on, it's a massive design flaw they never fixed and I believe it's because of the spring placing extra pressure on that side. Other than trying to re-glue the hinge, you try using a bit of copper or some sort of metal and try to heat it on and melt it onto the plastic to match the dimensions of the original plastic one. I've seen this done before but the main issue is if you heat it up too much, it can distort the shape of the storage compartment, Another method I've seen that's not as neat is putting a screw through from the inside of the compartment to act as a hinge. Other than that, if you want the functionality, you'd need to spend a few hundred dollars ($400+ from memory) brand new from Toyota which comes as a full unit (buttons, main board behind etc.)
  9. Yeap that's it. If you put one hand on each vent and pull it'll come out pretty easy since it just clips in.
  10. Yeah just follow those steps. If you need anymore help just shoot me a PM dude.
  11. It's easy man trust me, the harder part is when you have to open up the center console board. You won't break it at all when you pull out, just don't be rough with it or anything and it'll come out fine hahaha.
  12. You can pull out the unit man, it's easy. 1. Remove the center aircon vent, tilt the vents and pull out. 2. Remove the bottom ash tray compartment from the center console. 3. Remove the gear knob which allows the surround and gear boot to be removed. 4. Now hold the top and bottom of the center unit and you can pull it out.
  13. You can do it by hand, no tools needed for the spring. The only time you'll need some tools is if you have to make a new hinge or some sort of mechanism that makes the spring loading work again.
  14. Yeah that hole on the left side, is where it will go into. The straight side of the spring goes into the center console unit, and the booked side on the flap. I don't run the spring as my hinge broken years ago but I'll get some pics for reference. EDIT: Pic for reference from YouTube.