Squalled

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Squalled last won the day on February 5

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About Squalled

  • Rank
    2ZZ-GE Succulent Gains
  • Birthday September 29

Profile Information

  • Would you be interested in attending club meetings?
    Yes
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla Sportivo
  • Toyota Year
    2005
  • Location
    New South Wales
  • How did you find us?
    Google
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Squalled

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Thanks mate! Appreciate it ✌️
  2. Another quick update. Before the new mod, achievement unlocked. Made it to this earlier last week and it only feels like yesterday I saw the same distance shown in my old Honda Prelude. Now onto the new mod, I actually forget to mention this in my previous post and actually forget I had laying around since the end of last year. After a lot of thinking and seeing my Sportivo's give enough grief when I met up with them, I finally got a short shifter. This is a custom made one, so it's not the MWR or TWM short shifter which sits quite low and has very little play in it. Seems there isn't anything that Ed can't make, with a shifter already to go in the base for a simple and easy installation at home. Funnily enough he actually reminded me I had it and that I should install so last weekend I started nice and early before it got too hot. So I took the extra time to take some rough measurements of the throw distance between 1st and 2nd gear. Sadly I didn't measure the height difference which also different between to the original shifter. So here is the original shifter throw from first to second. After I measure the throw distance, I removed the center console surround which made access a lot easier to all the bolts and shifter cables. I removed the shifter cables from the bottom and side of the mount after removing the clips and than twisting the mechanism at the front to remove the entire cable from the assembly. I than removed the 4 bolts and did have a bit of trouble getting the Speed Source base bushings out as some of them had actually stuck to the bottom of the shifter assembly. Once I got them out the base was free and I gave the area a quick clean. Safe to say the log books are definitely right about the 1st owner been female as I found about 3 bobby pins randomly around the center console area. After the clean, it was matter of doing the steps in reverse which was quite easy now that I knew what I was doing. Once the cables were all mounted, the bushing lined up and tightened down I tested the feel to make sure the gears were engaging. I was worried at first but after sending a video or two to a few mates they confirmed all was good. Gave the center console a nice clean for the normally hard to reach areas and bolted it all back down before re-measuring. As you can see, the shifter is a lot shorter as I tried to take the photo from the same height and this is now the throw distance between 1st and 2nd. After taking the measurements, I went for a drive and thankfully no issues with gear crunching or engagement and all is going well. Overall I'm quite happy with the shifter, it's not too low and the throw is not excessively short like some of the other aftermarket ones out there. I've had in almost a week now and have gotten used to it pretty quick, not used to how quick the shifts are now. I did try out the taller chrome gear knob I have shown before in some older photo's but it literally made it feel like a stock shifter again so I put the stock gear knob back on. I've got a few things planned to get done off the checklist hopefully very soon so stay tuned!
  3. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    That's the side they usually break on, it's a massive design flaw they never fixed and I believe it's because of the spring placing extra pressure on that side. Other than trying to re-glue the hinge, you try using a bit of copper or some sort of metal and try to heat it on and melt it onto the plastic to match the dimensions of the original plastic one. I've seen this done before but the main issue is if you heat it up too much, it can distort the shape of the storage compartment, Another method I've seen that's not as neat is putting a screw through from the inside of the compartment to act as a hinge. Other than that, if you want the functionality, you'd need to spend a few hundred dollars ($400+ from memory) brand new from Toyota which comes as a full unit (buttons, main board behind etc.)
  4. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    Yeap that's it. If you put one hand on each vent and pull it'll come out pretty easy since it just clips in.
  5. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    Yeah just follow those steps. If you need anymore help just shoot me a PM dude.
  6. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    It's easy man trust me, the harder part is when you have to open up the center console board. You won't break it at all when you pull out, just don't be rough with it or anything and it'll come out fine hahaha.
  7. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    You can pull out the unit man, it's easy. 1. Remove the center aircon vent, tilt the vents and pull out. 2. Remove the bottom ash tray compartment from the center console. 3. Remove the gear knob which allows the surround and gear boot to be removed. 4. Now hold the top and bottom of the center unit and you can pull it out.
  8. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    You can do it by hand, no tools needed for the spring. The only time you'll need some tools is if you have to make a new hinge or some sort of mechanism that makes the spring loading work again.
  9. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    Yeah that hole on the left side, is where it will go into. The straight side of the spring goes into the center console unit, and the booked side on the flap. I don't run the spring as my hinge broken years ago but I'll get some pics for reference. EDIT: Pic for reference from YouTube.
  10. Squalled

    Centre console storage door help

    No worries mate. I'll try and get some photo's for you of the hole on the center console unit itself where the spring goes into.
  11. Squalled

    Exhaust System

    Anytime my friend. No point in holding back info when someone needs it. I only don't reply to a thread if I don't have relevant info 😂😂
  12. Squalled

    Exhaust System

    Depending how many mods you plan on doing, you have to decide what size piping and what material to use. Most go for 2.5" piping with mild steel, which does reduce rasp somewhat compared to stainless but will have a shorter life span compared to stainless. There are gains to be had with 2.25" exhausts but it's not too much bigger than stock, the main advantage would be the additional flow without restrictions added. I run 2.5" mild press bent, which does cause some restriction but I haven't reached the limits of needing mandrel bent as of yet. Generally moving to high flow cat can get some occasional pops, I have previously ran stock ported headers now on custom 4-1s headers and they still pop every no and than. So look into getting a high flow cat if you have the funds. I have seen some with stock cats also pop occasionally as they do flow reasonably well for a standard item. You will also need to consider the muffler as this completes the sound and will help greatly with flow. Generally the pops are just un-burnt fuel that gets ignited in the exhaust system. I recall even my completely stock exhaust system did it from time to time. EDIT: I completely forgot to mention resonators/hot dog mufflers. I run 2 and this reduces the rasp a fair bit. A budget method many user with 2.5" piping is the VE commodore V6 resonator, as it's 2.5" inside I believe, is cheap and is quite long too. Resonators can reduce the rasp greatly depending on how big, the type and how many you use.
  13. First update of 2019! Alright, since my last update not all too much has changed on the car. A few days after posting my last update, I noticed that the car sounded a bit different from normal and realised I have an exhaust leak. I've yet to get the chance with Sydney's unstable weather to go underneath and have a look where it is coming from but it does sound like it is coming from the headers towards the passenger side. The car recently went through rego without any hassles, I still need to get the headlight plug sorted and get both headlights working as soon as I can, I have a spare plug waiting to get put in and it's only a matter of getting it done now. Last fortnight was the first time this year I've had the chance to was the car, gave it a nice clean inside and out which was great until it rained that night. Luckily it wasn't dirty rain and the car still doesn't look too bad as of recently. Over the long weekend, I was finally able to go on a quick drive which I haven't done in a long time other than for work up to Springwood. My partner and I waited till it cooled down towards the end of the day and went up to the lookout. Sadly, a whole heap of slow traffic ruined the twisty experience which is why I seem to end up there at night. So this post is quite short mostly because I haven't done all too much at the start of the year. I do have some plans coming for this year and as always, there is a to-do list as below: - Repair headlight plug - Fix the exhaust leak - Re-do black housing headlights with original lights - Keep the car neat and tidy all round - Remove excessive and unnecessary weight Looking forward to the year ahead, continuing the build and seeing everyone's builds coming along. I'd hopefully like to get a run on the dyno and maybe even a few runs down the 1/4 or roll racing for some off street action. Stay tuned!
  14. Squalled

    Hiro's AE102

    The car I went with cams was running MWR stage 2's which seem to be the best all round, compared to stage 3 which seems to benefit top end more. You can definitely run them on stock ECU no issues but like you said won't get the full benefit. I have seen videos of some on stock ECU with cams and they still go quite well, and that's in the heavier ZZE chassis compared to the AE10x chassis.
  15. Squalled

    Hiro's AE102

    Yeah not to mention the current exchange rate which doesn't help too. You can run the cams on a V-Manage piggy back with no issues, they seem to go for around $200-$300 used these days. But than again, it's already going to be a big job like you said to get it all working with the stock ECU.