Squalled

Alrighty another update. So after a bit of hiatus from some cosmetic modifications, within the last weekend something new, well kind of for me, was finally installed. Here's a hint... So after my mate Alec gave an idea of how to get my headlights off the car, I tried it and it worked! Big shout out to him again for giving me the idea. With the passenger light out, the drivers side was actually able to come out with ease thankfully. It took me 3 hours all up because I was essentially pulling the harness out of the headlight and putting it back through the new lights, made harder especially with the seemingly stuck plug. Sat like this most of the morning while I sat patiently pulling it apart. So now I finally have them in, they do need a really good restoration which I plan getting done professionally as soon as I find someone to do it. Now here's the new look. Looks a lot more aggressive. Although it was a pain to do, I'm glad I was finally able to get them installed. I gave them a quick clean up with some car wash and RainX polish which got rid of some of the yellowness of the lights. Here's the latest shot as of this evening. Haven't had a chance to wash her recently. And as of recently, the valve cover has begun to leak again so another trip to the workshop is in order. With the V-Manage issues, the jolting at low RPM has dramatically reduced in the last 2-3 weeks. It's since only happened twice in the past few weeks so seems to be the ECU learning still but a re-tune may be happening later this year. Other than that, I'll be keeping the updates coming.

What ECU are you planning on using? I have a mate down in Melbourne and can ask for you where he got his cams installed. Try joining the Melbourne Corolla Sportivo group on Facebook, good place to ask.

Time for another update. So in the last few weeks a few more things have been bought and/or installed. Got a correct size battery installed now and a new battery stay so a lot more secure than the previous battery which was a few sizes too big. The other things that are on the to do list now include Speed Source shifter cable bushings, painting the brake calipers and getting a new trim set hydro dipped. I'll be sure to add photos of the finished results for the calipers and trims. I'll also try to get some photos of the bushing install when I get around to doing it. Recently since coming back from overseas, I've noticed the valve cover seal seems to be leaking now although it was replaced last year which is a bit of pain. But other than that, the car has being running great. Haven't had too many issues with the tune recently, the jolting at low rpm seems to be a less common issue in the past week so fingers crossed it was just the ECU learning. Here are some of the latest photos from the last month or so. Size difference between a 2005 and 2017/18 Corolla. Really shows how much bigger smaller cars have gotten. Finally had a chance to give it a quick wash today. Will keep the updates coming.

Alrighty time for an update (picture to come later) So for most of last month I was on an overseas trip and returned early this month. Not all too much has changed with the car since my last update. The changes that have happened, will be added in another post with some photos. On to the V-Manage, it is still experiencing the occasional jolt around 7000 RPM which should go away in the next couple of weeks as I keep driving. A new issue that began to occur was an occasional jolt around the 2000-2500 RPM area. Most the time it does happen all too much but upon returning from my trip, it seemed to occur every 30 minutes of driving. From discussions I've had, it may actually just be the tune itself down in the lower RPMs causing the issue. It was initially thought to be ground issue but due to how often it's happened that has being ruled out. Luckily it doesn't happen all too often. But other than that, the Sportivo has being running great as of recently. I also discovered that the recently changed valve cover seal appears to be leaking all the way around so I'll be organising the same workshop to look it over and re-do the seal. Another update to come with photos.

May have to keep your eye on eBay because that would be your best bet. They may appear on some social media sites and possibly other sales sites (Gumtree etc).

Alright time for another update. So yesterday, I had the opportunity to meet the man behind my intake modifications and who was able to do this... He was able to able to install the Greddy V-Manage and also tune it accordingly with my car. The installation itself was extremely quick and he was able to install it within about 40 minutes and made it look easy. A massive shout out to Ed who not only improved the intake but installed and tuned the ECU and came all the way up from Melbourne (absolute legend!) He then got his laptop and we went through some gears while he would make corrections to the map to make sure the car would run and perform at it's very best. We mostly performed 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear runs. All gears were monitored to make sure that there were no issues with the tune. Initially we performed the changes retaining the 6200 RPM lift engagement point and what a difference that made. The car became a lot more responsive and revved out so quickly I wasn't even ready to shift it yet the first time I did a 1st gear pull. When we pulled over I decided I wanted to lower the lift engagement point. Some additional wires were connected and tests performed to make sure the engagement could be changed. With the tests done successfully I took it for a drive and noticed even more of a difference than before. The power band is so much more usable than it has ever been before. I think it will be easier if I list the main notes of of the V-Manage unit itself and the tune. - The tune I am currently running has lift engagement set to 5800 RPM. This is the lowest point if running a standard intake manifold (no porting, polishing etc) as anything lower will cause a major flat spot in power. - The major benefits noticed are the increased ease in drive ability, the increased responsiveness throughout the rev range no matter what RPM, less throttle input to get up to speed (have used between 25%-50% throttle which feels like it gets up to speed the same as 75% and above prior to the tune). - The unit itself is very small in size, roughly the size of the stock ECU, maybe smaller so it can easily fit in the glove box or even in the center console storage if you wanted. WARNINGS Now I would like to add some warnings here so anyone looking into purchasing one is aware. This shouldn't turn you off but more of a bring it to your attention. - As the V-Manage is a generic unit which can be shared across multiple cars which use VVT, it may run differently on each car. Some cars such as mine as I'm told luckily are running fine but others experience difficulty running with the V-Manage and aren't able to fully benefit. This unit is only able to modify VVT and Lift. The E-Manage can also be used in conjunction with the V-Manage to increase the red line, ignition, fuel etc. - Due to the lower lift engagement, a specific method is to be used and tested each drive for the first month or two to make sure it is working (and for future issues). Simply revving out slowly in first gear, engaging lift and revving to 7000 RPM then increase throttle more to make sure the car doesn't have a "jolt" (similar to boost cut but not as aggressive). This is due to the fact the V-Manage is a piggyback system and the factory ECU needs time to learn. It will trigger the 7000 RPM limiter (usually when the car is cold for example) which the V-Manage seems to bypass causing the jolting as opposed to a rev limiter. Currently my car has had some minor occurrences of the jolting which has come and gone but is running fantastically. - Not every car is able to run a lower lift engagement. Each car is different, some jolting like mine for a month or so which is the best scenario as this will no longer occur at all or as frequent once the ECU learns. Other cars will actually engage lift slowly and begin jerking back and fourth without any power increases from what I have been advised meaning that the lower engagement can't be run as it may not perform normally after the ECU learns. - Only specific V-Manage units are able to lower lift. From what I'm told there is a specific serial underneath which determines if the ECU can alter lift engagement. Refer to the photo below and look for serial number GVC02512. - You will also need a V-Manage Dual (best to look for), which is simply a small black box that is a solenoid. The dual unit allows the solenoid to trigger both oil pressure solenoids on the VVT and VVL. You are able to buy 2 separate solenoids to do this but having the dual unit is far simpler. I hope this doesn't deter anyone from considering a V-Manage. No matter if the standard lift engagement is retained, the increased benefits are more than worth while. The best way is to drive and feel it for yourself. It's a more than worth while modification that I would recommend to anyone! Will keep updates when they come.

Another quick update. So I've been going through my old posts and re-uploading my photos again for all to see because photobucket sucks. Have quite a few still to do but I think I'm almost half way through. So about a fortnight a go, I finally gave the car a nice afternoon wash but waited till the early evening to take some shots. It's been a while since I got some evening shots. So, last week I decided to do something I really didn't think I was going to do for a long time. Yeap, I put the the standard intake back in. I pulled it out during the hottest time of the day on one the hottest days during January so it was a little bit of a struggle. The car seemed to feel a lot less willing to rev through with ease in the top end so it's safe to say an intake can produce great gains for the 2ZZ. Now for reference, the Injen 2 piece intake is made for the USDM models but fits the Sportivo also (JUST). So, a fellow Sportivo guru in Melbourne thought he could further improve the design of the Injen. This is the original fitment, well close to it obviously the second pipe would fit a lot more snug. The main problem I had was that I had to use a small filter for the system to fit properly since there are some differences between USDM and AUDM 2ZZ Corolla's. So, how do you improve the Injen design? I know it may not look that great but it works extremely well. The main modifications that were done were the breather delete, mount delete, flaring at the end of the piping removed and a shorter secondary pipe replacing the old. As you can see from previous photos in my thread, it sits completely different from a normal Injen. I managed to fit the intake on without removing the bumper but my arms sure did pay the price with some cuts and bruises. The fitment is on the tighter side so there is some refinement to do but, it works fantastically. There is a nice sure in power and torque from 3000 rpm on-wards and is the torque gain is especially noticeable form 4500 rpm on-wards. There is now no where as noticeable dip in power before lift engagement and the sound sounds a lot deeper compared to the original design. It flows extremely well it runs great, feels a lot better for daily duties getting off the line easier with a lot less lag and bogging. Yesterday I had a quick opportunity while Sydney's weather was great to wash the car before a drive today. Luckily enough the weather managed to hold off over night too with only some small parts of residue in the morning. Was up nice and early for a drive with some mates through the Royal National Park and down the Sea Cliff Bridge to some beaches before heading back home mid morning. Other than that, I'll be keeping the updates coming. There will be another update coming in the next week or so for this month so stay tuned.

Alright first update for 2018. Not too much has happened for the year so far. Planning on washing the car shortly since I've been pretty busy the last few weekends and not driving it to work as much. Definitely needs a bit of love. This year I'm focusing mainly on getting all of the little things right before I go more bananas on things I don't want. Things like the surface rust in the engine bay, incorrect battery size and the recently discovered slow coolant leak from the overflow bottle. I've got a few things planned for this year but it's not as much of a priority at the moment. So, a big milestone to start off the year. Achievement unlocked, 200 000 kilometers reached. Managed to put 55 000 kilometers on it in just over 2 years. Later the same day I hit 200 000, my mate came down after work and helped me finally install something. My whiteline torsion bar is now installed, only after 2 years of it sitting in the packaging. He also brought over a new battery to which he showed me I didn't have a battery tray so my old battery remains for now. Stock 18 mm (or is it 17mm?) vs the 22 mm Whiteline Installed, was definitely a tough task for my mate to fit since it was a bit tight. Big shout out to my mate Alec for the quick install. Made it look easy considering I was way to nervous to do it myself. Just some cute shots together. Other than that, will keep this updated and hopefully update my old broken photos, thanks photo bucket

Generally the only way to make serious power on the 2ZZ is to go forced induction. The internals are pretty strong but you'll more than likely only be able to run minimal boost, 6-8 psi at the most before the motor goes (could be years 2-3 at the most from what I've seen online). Staying N/A however, you'll need to consider opening up the engine, replacing cams, valves, retainers so pretty much replacing all the parts in the head. By that time, you will have spent well over $3k minimum at least to get most of it done unless you can do it yourself. The best possible options which shouldn't break the bank for better response are porting your throttle body and ECU with tune (stand alone or piggy back). Porting your stock headers will also liven up the engine a bit allowing it rev out quicker and remove some of the low and mid range lag. Engine was made to rev over 8000 rpm with ease, sadly the gearboxes can't take the usual slamming that say a Honda gearbox may take better. Simply slip the clutch a bit between 1st and 2nd to keep the car in Lift and you'll be fine. In the long run, it's much cheaper to replace a clutch than a gearbox.

Final update for 2017. So last week I finally got a chance to give the beast a clean. The weather didn't really hold off but I was still able to keep it clean for most of the week. Nothing has really changed since the last update and the exterior should hopefully see some changes happening next year. The remaining to do list now: - Install black housing headlights - Install & Tune the Greddy V-Manage - Install Whiteline Torsion Bar - New Battery of correct size - Clean engine bay and sort out some minor surface rust near the battery area. Other than that, there may be a few other bits and pieces to come in 2018. Wishing everyone a safe and happy New Year. Looking forward to see what updates you will all bring in 2018!

Hahaha I don't have the items you are requesting for free delivery.

Alrighty, update time. So, as of recently been pretty busy with work traveling to and from work which has now been made much easier after a relocation and with the unpredictable Sydney weather it's safe to say the Sportivo has sadly been neglected for the last month or so since I had to catch a train every day. Safe to say I've been filling up petrol every 2-3 weeks now since I haven't being driving it as much which isn't so bad with the high prices at the moment. So here are the new goodies. A few weeks ago, a mate of mine sold me this: It's not getting wired in and tuned until next year so looking forward to some new gains and will get as many photos and provide as much feedback about it as possible. I also got a new handbrake cover and shift boot with red stitching and have not been able to install the shift boot yet as I'll need the surround for the boot. Having second thoughts about the handbrake cover but it's staying in for now. On a last little note, it was time to add a little joke that some owners are well aware of (please excuse my dirty engine bay). Other than that, I hope to give the car a nice clean all round before the end of the year and hopefully give another update. Hope everyone has a safe Christmas! Will keep this updated.

Update time. Have being really busy with my new job recently which I'm absolutely loving, despite the fact I'm catching the train to and from work for the last 2 weeks meaning I haven't been driving as much lately. I'll be moving to a new site meaning I can drive as it'll be a lot closer to home. At last, the mystery oil leak is now fixed. As stated before, my guess was correct as it was the timing case which was causing the problem the whole time. I got the car back last Wednesday after it was taken in on Friday the week before and disassembled to check the seals. The mechanic said it was safe to say the seals were gone. They were the originals and lasted almost 200000 kilometres so I think that's pretty good considering the engine doesn't always have an easy time. I've been keeping an eye on any leaks over the last week and there are no more! All the seals that are for the timing case. Tensioner o-ring also replaced Timing case removed Inside the timing case In the last week or so, I've began to spoil myself due to the time of year (I'm sure we all do), and have a new addition to be revealed and some new goodies on the way. Will keep the updates coming before the New Year!

It's a free fix really, just have to be careful on how much you adjust because if it is over adjusted, it can be just as bad as under adjusted really so it makes the clutch ride out a lot more. If it's the standard clutch, my one had a tendency to slip a little on hills especially when I found out it was quite worn down too. Most just get the OEM flywheel machined, including myself which will work perfect anyway. Feel free to PM if you need some ideas for exhausts, I got that all covered!

That's the one haha. You're the man in the know for this