astol87

ok, swapped the batteries, started fine. so that and the voltages, its the battery

Ok, I've got the wife to turn the ignition while i had the multimeter on the battery, and it went down to 5-6V. Gonna put the barrety from her car into mine and see if i can start it, or is that a bad idea?

cheers.

will test battery too.

Starter finally died today, been getting progressively worse, and the battery is at 12.4V, so it does sound like the starter, right?

Main question - been asking around for prices and they ask me if its the 10 or 13 teeth starter. Does anyone know? Will be pulling it off tomorrow anyway but thought i'd get a head start.

Anything else I need to know for the replacement?

in that case, replace the AUX cable and you should be right.

Dont think my tweeters ever worked, and sadly still have all 4 stock speakers, 3 of which are blown...

ha! thats amazing. I have an 04 camry with a DPX-5140BT. that sort of static is usually bad connections speaker <> stereo if its coming from all speakers. if a single speaker, that speaker may be dying

they often need a security code entered, the code is usually in the manual. Also could be a dead/dying fuse either in the fuse box or dedicated one in the back of the stereo.

All but one of the globes(or LEDs?) in the air selector unit have died. I had a quick look the other day, but the panel seem hard to get out, looks like the heating/cooling lines are stopping it.

1. how do you disconnect the hot/cold lines (or whatever they are holding it in, one on each side at the rear of the panel)

2. is it possible to replace the globes, and what would you recommend replacing them with (ideally coloured LEDs?)

Cheers

If I were you, I would pull the headunit out (its literally 4x 10mm bolts), find a wiring diagram online (google) and figure out which wires are for the tweeters (or front speaks as you alluded to) and test with a LED light if the connection is working. theres plenty of tutorials on youtube how to go about it. Diagnose from there.

Here is a bunch of screenshots of my settings:

http://imgur.com/a/DnRXZ

cheers campbeam, will check the PCV next weekend

I ended up getting Nulon 5W-30 as it was on sale, <$40 for 6L. Probably should have done a oil flush as well, but happy I at least did the change (and filter), it was getting a bit slugey

Awesome, thanks mate

Hi all,

What oil would you suggest for me, 2004 manual sportivo with 210,000kms.

I have been using Penrite 5W-40 Full Synthetic, and have some oil burn as noticed in the exhaust.

I have the same issue, for me, the cones are dead. FYI, there are 6x9's front and rear, so grab 2 packs of decent 6x9's if you're going to replace them

Im running El Cheapo tyres... Hifly HF201. great bang for buck, recommended by a mechanic mate. They seem to have really bad reviews online, but my experience as a fairly heavy footed driver on the camry: they grip well in wet weather and under heavy braking, not great on road noise but acceptable, very cheap, i think i paid $75ea, but saw them online for $66ea. I average 8.5L/100km as per my OBD2

very tidy! got details of the build? Ignore me, its in your signature!

Does anyone else daydream about the mods they would love to do to their car but dont have the resources (time, money etc) to do so? I do, and here's my list. I'd love to hear yours!
 

2004  2AZ-FE Sportivo...

• engine rebuild (burning oil a bit) (possibly swap for newer model engine, havent looked into it, suggestions?)
• custom turbo install
  • small garrett turbo
  • possibly mounted below battery box, or relocate battery to that space below it and put turbo in factory battery position
  • Haltech ECU
  • fuel pump upgrade
  • injector upgrade
• e-throttle
• upgrade calipers and rotors front and rear
• tail light swap for 05/06 style lights
• fix/replace headlights and foglights (cloudy)
• full re-spray or plastidip
• swap interior bezels/accessories and seats with 05/06 Azura
• change LEDs (colours and brightness) for instrument panel and accessories
• replace factory (blown) speakers and get amp and sub

looking at this list, maybe i should get/swap the sportivo for an azura and then I wont have to mess around as much. I wont be able to do much (or any) of this as I dont have the funds to do so, but still fun to dream about.

i also have a tasker profile set up around it, so that when my phone connects to the stereo bluetooth, it starts the Torque app, sets appropriate volume levels, has a plugin to read sms's aloud and clears the lockscreen password, and do the reverse when it disconnects from the OBD

On 9/21/2016 at 3:11 PM, trentmeyer23 said:

In the interest of helping others, could you please detail the exact procedure and hardware that you used in order to get it to function.

Sure!

I have THIS OBD2 dongle, plugged into my 2AZ-FE Camry. I've used the Samsung Galaxy S4 and the Motorola Moto G 2015 phones, installed the TORQUE Pro app, configured the vehicle profile for the camry in the app,and down the bottom in "Very Advanced" it looks like this: ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP A4 \n ATSW00

The above works in my '04 with the Torque app and a $15 bluetooth OBD2 reader off ebay. any problems, give me a shout

from here: http://blog.blk-it.com/odbii-and-the-aussie-camry/

After revisiting, I finally got my generic ELM 327 bluetooth OBD scan tool to work with my 2004 corolla sportivo!!

turned out the initial “handshake” needed to communicate with the ECU is quite particular, so when running the TORQUE application on galaxy S4, I set up a vehicle profile for the sportivo, then scroll all the way down to the “custom conflagration string” field an input the following:

ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP A4 \n ATSW00

and here is what it does/means:

ATIB 96 \n     –    set the ISO baud rate to 9600

ATIIA 13 \n     –    set ISO (slow) init adress to 13

ATSH8113F1 \n     –    set Header to 8113F1

ATSP A4 \n     –    set protocol to Auto, 4 and save it

ATSW00        –    set wakeup interval to 00 x 20 msec

hope this helps anyone who has encountered the same problem

[Source]

And thats all that was required, that one line for the Custom Configuration String: ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP A4 \n ATSW00

Hi everyone,

My '04 sportivo has a slow-ish leak, it seems like its below or near the PCV valve but I wanted to get your opinion on what it is and how to fix it. I have about 195,000 kms on it, and need to do an oil change anyway so figured I may as well fix this beforehand. An image album is linked here

The last image is probably the most helpful, by my guess. A key thing to note is that I dont really know what I'm looking at, like names of stuff. I've done a rocker cover gasket replacement in an SR20 with the help of a friend, and will probably get his help again but hoping to get a head start on what the issue is.

thanks!

Since I was looking for the answer myself and google bought me here, I have an answer:

Source

Quote

 

After revisiting, I finally got my generic ELM 327 bluetooth OBD scan tool to work with my 2004 corolla sportivo!!

turned out the initial “handshake” needed to communicate with the ECU is quite particular, so when running the TORQUE application on galaxy S4, I set up a vehicle profile for the sportivo, then scroll all the way down to the “custom conflagration string” field an input the following:

ATIB 96 \n ATIIA 13 \n ATSH8113F1 \n ATSP A4 \n ATSW00

and here is what it does/means:

ATIB 96 \n     –    set the ISO baud rate to 9600

ATIIA 13 \n     –    set ISO (slow) init adress to 13

ATSH8113F1 \n     –    set Header to 8113F1

ATSP A4 \n     –    set protocol to Auto, 4 and save it

ATSW00        –    set wakeup interval to 00 x 20 msec