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@Tony ProdigyThe thing is, that pump thats been giving me issues is brand new. Maybe I just did a bad job installing it or something.

So I've swapped the whole fuel pump module from another Corolla to mine and drove it around for a few days. Great Success! The car runs well and starts perfectly now, so we know that the issue does indeed lay with the components in the whole module. I'm planning to swap the fuel pumps around between the fuel pump modules and then well see whether I just got a dud pump, or if theres some issue with the module. 

I did notice when i swapped the modules over, that there was pressure in the tank of the other corolla (fuel was squirting out of the top of the module and the fuel line), but there was no pressure or anything like that in my Sportivo. Any ideas on why that could be? The Sportivo was sitting in the garage for maybe an hour or two and the other Corolla was freshly driven into the garage.

Wow, completely forgot to give an update. So yeah I checked the spark plugs and the battery and they seem to be fine, so now I’m gonna give swapping out the fuel pumps from then other Corolla a go. What’s the worst that could happen?

Hey guys, I've been having an issue with my Sportivo recently. A little while ago, it died on my on my drive home, just totally lost power so I figured the fuel pump had gone. Yadda yadda yadda, I got it home and the next day I replaced the pump and the filter and it was running. But ever since then, it's had touble starting.

What will happen is it'll crank for a long time until it just barely sputters to life and then it'll run just like normal; no issues throughout the whole rev range. What I have to do to avoid cranking it for ages, is I crank it for 2 seconds, let the fuel pump prime (I hear that little whirring noise), then I start it like normal. And thats fine, but I'm getting over the whole procedure now.

I've taken the pump out and changed some of the seals around and it started starting first time for the first few times, but then it went back to how it was before.

Any ideas on what the issue could be? Did I just get a faulty pump?? I have another 1zz corolla around, could I just swap parts and use the process of elimination to figure whats up (running 98 octane through the 1zz first of course)?

4 hours ago, jeffy said:

yes

 

stainless steel sounds better than mild...

also stainless steel is thicker than mild.. soo if lets say for example you hit something the chances of something piercing through stainless is less

also as for mandrel bends, think about a bendy straw vs a non bendy straw... what will happen when you try and bend the tubing in both situations ? how does the air flow when it comes to the bends ?

thats going to have some rasps, look for something that has bends inside the muffler

https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56527-exhaust-system/?tab=comments#comment-571438

 

Resonators only move the sound to to a different rev range (or change the sound reverb)  - volume will be same

I thought the stainless was thinner due to you needing less material for corrosion resistance, hence why they’re more raspy.

With the muffler, do you mean something like a baffled system or one where the exhaust gas has to snake through the whole body of the muffler?

11 minutes ago, Squalled said:

Well 2.5" is the biggest you should go unless you're going cams and onward. The resonator will quieten the sounds and remove the rasp but, the muffler choice is also a big one. A lot of mufflers like cannon style will make it sounds like a bee hive.

Literally search up Honda exhausts on eBay, they sure love their "fart cans".

Oh yeah, its a solid no to a cannon; I happen to like my ears being able to hear things. I'm gonna go for a regular straight-through oval muffler that hopefully isn't obnoxiously loud.

Oh damn, they sound quite bad. Definitely want to avoid that noise. 

28 minutes ago, Squalled said:

That's fairly decent price. Most places in Sydney seem to charge about $100-$200 more for the same setup. What size piping are going for also? One of the common things I've found is stainless seems to sound a lot more raspy but stainless lasts a lot longer than mild steel too hence the price difference. Just make sure you get a big resonator or 2 small ones to remove the "buzz" unless you like it, all up to you.

I'm going for the 2.5-inch piping, I don't think I'm ever gonna modify this car enough to warrant anything bigger. I think I might actually ask for a bigger resonator to dampen the raspiness, but to be totally honest, I don't really know what particular sound I'm listening for that you'd call raspy. I just know what sounds I like and don't like 🙂 

If anyone has a vid showing a stereotypically raspy exhaust, I'm all ears (and eyes). I mainly going for stainless for the longevity of the material and weight savings.

On the topic of exhausts, is it worth it to pay more for a mandrel-bent cat-back system over a press bent one? Stainless steel or mild steel system? I've been quoted $650 for stainless steel mandrel-bent system vs 4380 for a press-bent one (in Perth).

Is the extra cost worth it?

7 hours ago, Hiro said:

Gears are in constant mesh (except for reverse), if you can't get it in to a gear then you're looking at a broken linkage, selector fork or collar.  A properly broken gear (which is not a small thing) would likely grenade the whole box.

I know those are words but all I see are dollar signs and up arrows. It almost always goes into gear, the only occasions it hasn’t is when I was being a bit....overzealous with my driving and asking a bit much of the transmission. Hopefully the gears are okay.

Squalled, how many kms had your car done when it got the transmission rebuilt?

Well, this guy said that a normal gearbox overhaul would be "$1550 plus hard parts if needed, that means gears/synchos/shafts - whatever's not in a rebuild kit." so I'm assuming that's like seals, bushings etc. I'm still gonna look around and see what other shops can do. I figured that $1600 - $1900 would be a pretty fair range for this job, but I'm not a mechanic so what do I know : |

Ahh that’s what I was looking for, cheers. I’ll give it a go soon but if I’m gonna keep this car long I’m gonna have to do the rebuild later down the line anyways. What do y’all reckon is a fair price for a rebuild like this? I got quoted $1500 excluding gears, synchros etc. 

Also planning on changing the gear oil soon with the Motul Gear 500 so I’m pretty excited to feel how much different it’ll be.

Yeah, I think I’m gonna be going down that road soon but I thought I’d try a quick diy thing first 

Hey peeps, I’ve recently been having problems with my Sportivo cruching into 2nd gear and thought I’d try the clutch adjustment procedure. I’ve looked high and low and can’t find the specific document about the bulletin released about this wayyy back. Could anyone help a brother out with my issue and post it bulletin please (or if you had another solution for the crunch)?

Thanks