TRIPPER

i would go for new drive shafts too, just incase...

I take it you don't know how much the half shafts cost? Just replace them when they break.

Also you'll have to keep an eye on the coolant level :P

Set of shafts from Toyota will set you back around the $2.5K mark.

A set of driveshafts from Toyota are 2.5k!!!!!!?!??!?!?!?!?!?! WTF!!!

If you want to go turbo, im sure majority of people would reccommend selling and buying a purpose built turbo car. Slapping on a turbo on sportivo's aint as easy as putting them on other FWD 4cyl's. There is alot of custom work to be done to the motor aswell as the engine bay. Your looking at $20k + (easily) for a turbo conversion on these cars. Also, dont forget these cars dont come with the supporting mods for a 12sec car (i.e brakes, suspension, diff, gearbox) so converting this thing to a turbo...... forget it.

Brake hard 3-4 times and you'll be sweet.

When you turn your A/C on, cars tend to be abit laggier because the A/C gets power from the motor to run it. As for your clutch, if it does slip alot, it does mean its on its way but if you drive the car like a baby all the time, it will increase the life of your clutch. If you are interested in changing it, it would roughly be around the $600 mark including new clutch and the labour to do it. If I were you, I wouldnt be so worried. (Unless its really that bad).

Spotted JC tonight on Cumberland Highway, Greystanes. Nice meeting ya :)

Hi all,

I'll take my car in for a service soon and I'd like to replace the 4 brake calipers. Any of you have any ideas how much it would cost me? The car is a Corolla '05 hatch.

Cheers

First of all, why do you want to change the calipers? Do you have crap brakes? If that's the case, get a pair of slotted rotors ($200 for fronts) and some decent brake pads ($50) and your set to go. No point in just getting a caliper upgrade if your not prepared to upgrade the components around it.

you root or wat *****?

Hehe, nah mate. Didnt even bother trying in the condition I was in. I got kicked out of the club because I fell asleep on the table lol.

5w-40 is still fine.

the numbers simply represent the viscosity of the oil at different temperatures. the first number is the viscosity rating at a cold start, and the second number is the viscosity rating at normal operating temperature.

considering your car is a 2000 model, its most likely is getting a few km's on it and thus a bit more wear. the thicker oil at normal operating temperature will probably be a bit better than lighter viscosity oils because there will generally be a higher load rating, thus less chance of damage due to insufficient lubrication on tappets, etc.. it depends greatly upon the condition of the engine. considering that your celica is a high-revving 4 banger, i would probably stick with the 5w-40. i think thinner oils will show the signs of engine wear more than thicker oils.

but i'm not an expert, so don't think what i'm saying is 100% true. there are many factors to consider with oils.

the bottom-line is, it won't do you car harm! :D

yo how r ya i like u

WTFFFF thiss absinth sht has fkd me harrrrrrrrrrrrrrddddddddddddddddddddddddd

7 shots of it 3 jds an 3 wet pussssyssssssss wooohooo flying hard.\\

i am offclaly a pisshed wtf hi guys how r u

Kocummmmm your car looked nice at mcdonalds :)

Lol, landing in lift. Its when you redline 1st gear and shift so fast, that when you slam it into 2nd, and drop the clutch, the revs are sitting in the Lift range.

All that = wheelspin and abit of a faster straight line time.

A friend of mine went to Pickles damaged auction and bought a 2005 Holden Rodeo ute for $5,400. It was an ex-Holden delivery ute. The only damage he had was behind the door a big dent, and it really didnt make a different to the ute's looks or performance or practicalibility. On road set him back around $7.5k. He also told me there were so many other utes there.

Why dont you try your luck with a ute there? You'll be saving a crapload of money.

Very good info guys. We need more in-depth threads like these!!

but I'm sure it looks better without your sportivo wrapped around a tree/pole/child somewhere along it.

that theoreticle child has to be pretty solid for that to happen.

/end pointless reply

haha good call

Noisy bottom end, no oil...

I always change my oil every 5,000kms...

So the car had no oil at all? Burned it all out?

Also what do you mean noisy bottom end? Sorry for the questions, just wanting to get a better perspective.

What oil do you use? I am using Mobil1 fully synth. Currently 0w-40 but switching to 5w-30 next change.

Noisy bottom end means bottom end bearings (connecting rods to pistons). If those bearings are farked, then you would need to change it and that would cost you an arm and a leg.

My advice to all my mates are change your oil every 5,000kms like Rolla Boy has mentioned. You dont change it to gain any power, but to prevent your engine from failing in the long run and also so your engine runs smooth and it wont make any noise.

Wouldnt 0W-40 be too thin for your motor? I would recommend 10W-40, although each to their own.

Thanks mate.

Noisy engine as in when you rev it up high or when you simply start it up?

Yeah the oil may be a tad thin, I simply had that oil when I ought my corolla... ill switch to 5w-30 at the next service. It says in the manual u can use 5w-30.

Noisy engine noise as in when its idling and sometimes when you rev it up.

Noisy bottom end, no oil...

I always change my oil every 5,000kms...

So the car had no oil at all? Burned it all out?

Also what do you mean noisy bottom end? Sorry for the questions, just wanting to get a better perspective.

What oil do you use? I am using Mobil1 fully synth. Currently 0w-40 but switching to 5w-30 next change.

Noisy bottom end means bottom end bearings (connecting rods to pistons). If those bearings are farked, then you would need to change it and that would cost you an arm and a leg.

My advice to all my mates are change your oil every 5,000kms like Rolla Boy has mentioned. You dont change it to gain any power, but to prevent your engine from failing in the long run and also so your engine runs smooth and it wont make any noise.

Wouldnt 0W-40 be too thin for your motor? I would recommend 10W-40, although each to their own.

Go to your local wrecker and find an auto box. Be prepared to pay around the 1k mark because the automatic gearbox's are pretty dear. If you dont want that option, then scrap the car.

sweet colour :) i think you need 17's at that height those wheels look small

loving the colour ! doesnt seem like many rollas get full resprays around here. but i agree with tiet, stockies look a bit small at that height. although it IS a sweet height :D

thanks guys all the work finally paid off i guess :) and for the rims yep they are small! will be getting 18s

or maybe 17s but most likely 18s! gettin the jdm tail lights :) still to come..

hint hint .. black front mount intercooler would be GREAT :D

The rims only look small because of that rear skirt.

Btw, im loving that colour. You did a nice job.

Nicely said.

Can someone please explain to me the argument that adding a straight through cannon to the stock piping will make the Sportivo slower. A straight through muffler is supposed to reduce back pressure and improve exhaust flow thus improving performance right? I don't see how a company such as CES can have a cat back with piping 1/4'' bigger than standard with a straight through muffler and claim 5 - 9 kw atw while replacing the standard muffler with, say an Apexi n1(just an example) will frump up things and cause a performance decrease. People talk alot without dyno documentation. I would like to see a dyno comparison between Sportivo specific cat back system, and a simple muffler replacement.

a dodgy cannon wont set u back much just head in to supercheap or autobarn etc ..... add $50-$100 to head to a muffler shop to get it chucked on and 2 lots of dyno's will probably set u back $120 for 6 runs ($60 / 3 runs) .... so all in all a few hundred bucks will get u sorted ..... if u get adventurous sort out a bulk deal to test various cannons / brand mufflers on the day might net u a discount but will need more of an investment from u ;)

its great to "demand" that u c specific comparisons etc etc but really no one is going to pay for the r&d (or in this case no r&d) but more the labour & time to do what u've asked unless ur prepared to "do it yourself"

simply put on CES's dyno (there might also be independent proof) stock vs CES gained a net 5kw-9kw depending on the car + other mods etc etc.

I had a CES at one point and it netted me 5kw vs stock setup down here in Sydney no where near QLD ..... that being said however dyno runs were done like 6+ months apart so are they really comparable ? ;)

The procedure to do this isnt hard to get ur results but are u prepared to front the time or cash ? if not dont expect for it to be handed to u on a silver platter

Could you put up pics of the engine please. Im not interested in buying the product, but curious as to how this engine looks. Plus maybe other people want to see pics. Thanks.

2nd Gear lift = speeding; except if you're on a freeway.

And everyone has hit lift in 2nd gear on local streets.

lol its dosed. whats the big deal? never heard a VL turbo before?

Everyday I do 8000rpm in 6th to make sure I'm never late for anything.

Respect.

Tripper, no. Just no.

1. If you think that 235 kms an hour gets you brownie points - you are mistaken.

2. If you really don't give a crap when you get behind the wheel, then Keisari has a point.

The only way you will ever learn that your actions actually have consequences is by having your 20yr old rectum turned into a wind tunnel by one of the gents in cell block B - thats safer than you learning by wiping out a family of 4 on the Pacific Hwy.

(btw... did anyone else notice that the police officer in the bottom pic is having a good day? B) )

Most car enthusiasts have done stupid schitt, including topping speeds well over 200km's on a public highway. Dont give me that schitt now you agfay

edit - removed